Tuesday, May 20, 2008

My fitting issues!

I always need to start every pattern with making it a petite. I do this as Sandra Betzina suggests and that is by folding out fabric in the upper chest, front and back, and the corresponding fold out in the sleeve . I make this to every pattern I use right out of the envelope. It has made a major difference in my fit. Thank you, Sandra! I fold out a total of a half inch. I am narrow in the back and torso in general , I guess. But I take a C cup and then small waist, and healthy hips made for birthin' babies. I usually use a size 6 but this pattern started at 8, but that's fine.
After petiting the pattern I did my usual SFBA, saggy full bust adjustment! I did an increase to the side dart for a C cup. I lowered the dart based on my bust point and also moved the waist to bust darts a little closer together. Then I did a pivot and slide to cover my flat pattern measurements. Are you spinning yet? Next I did an S dart adjustment. This was my first time, so it will be interesting to see how that comes out. I also needed to add width at the high hip. All of this took me all day. I did a brief stint in the garden, but once my back started singing I quit and came back in to sew some more.

When I came back in I cut out my muslin and sewed it together. I was generally pleased. I decided to add 3/4 of an inch to the neckline. Too much d├ęcolletages for moi! I also added to the high hip some more after that. But when it was all done I was pretty happy. Now lets see how the actual garment comes out. Fabrics have such idiosyncrasies in their fit and draping. Many's the time a muslin fits perfectly and then the garment needs to be majorly tweeked.

Tonite I will be watching American Idol and hopefully cutting out the eyelet. I know I could avoid surprises by using similar fabric to to the garment, but eyelet is eyelet and it made no sense to do an eyelet muslin for an eyelet blouse!

I had fun playing with my closures. I will hold that one for a surprise. Lets just say they are silver plated! LOL!!!....Bunny

1 comment:

  1. All those adjustments! I hear you, cos I have them too. And it takes me so long...sigh!

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