Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Burda 02-2009-115

Pardon Miss Fanny's jewels, but she just doesn't feel dressed without them!

This is my first Burda World of Fashion effort. It is from the 09 February issue and is pattern #115. I chose this first because I thought the style was kind of fun for the summer, but also because it was the "sewing course" pattern that BWOF has in their magazine each month. I figured for my first attempt I might as well get all the help I can. I also viewed this as an experiment. I cut this as a size 38 with only a hip adjustment to a 40. I wanted to note the variations to patterns that I do with the Big Four when it comes to fitting. I did not petite this pattern. Next time I will. You can see my jacket on the form just has a sort of large/longer look than the one on the model. If I had petited the pattern it would have looked more like the original.

This pattern has downward bust darts that come out of the sleeve seam toward the bust. That right there is a ringer for SBS, aka, saggy boob syndrome. But again, I was experimenting here. I probably would not have chosen such a dart secenario with the Big Four.
On the original phote of the jacket in the magazine you can see that the pockets are "puffy" kind of like Seinfeld's shirt sleeves. I like this, but without petiting the pattern it puts the bulk in a funny place at my tummy. I think it would have looked much better if I reduced the length of the jacket about 2 inches at the waist. That would have given a finish closer to that you see on the 5'11" model in the magazine.

The fabric is a heavy linen that started out as navy blue. I discharge dyed it about 7 years ago , I think, and it has been waiting for the right pattern. I do think it worked up nicely in this design.
I will be making some black linen pants to wear with this jacket. It will be great for tossing on over a tank while I am in the supermarket or shopping wherever. Now that I feel comfortable with BWOF, I will make my traditional fit alterations. I think it will be much better. I do love the designs that I see in the magazine and am very happy I subscribed.

ETA: I just want to add that for the seams in this jacket I used probably my favorite technique. I stitch the seams. Then I cut back one seam to about a fat 1/8th of an inch. The seam allowances are then serged so that the upper SA is wider than the one trimmed underneath. This is then pressed to the side and topstitched from above. In keeping with the rather psychedelic nature of the fabric, I used a variegated rayon thread for my serging. It adds a cute touch to the inside. This technique is a really fast way to treat seams in linen. The have to either be lined over or treated in some way as the fabric is so ravelly. This definitely goes faster than HK seams.
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What you see here is a collage made from the recent velvet/silk purchase described in the previous post. I have added in some organza, cluny laces, and other silks and such to make two pieces. They were then stitched with a double needle on the diagonal. These will be made into a bag. I have been needing one of late but haven't been able to settle on a design. When I was teaching my grandson to make a fabric collage it occurred to me that I could make one too! So we both fused and double needled away! He took incredibley to the machine. I have always taught him more of a play/ handsewing type of adventure, but this visit we hit Bunbun's machine and he took to it amazingly. Here is a pic of him double needling his collage. He turned 6 in December.
Graham has been visiting for the week. He will be heading home south this Friday and in his stead will be two more grandchildren. I can't wait. They are all just so wonderful to be with. This is so much better than parenting ever could be.

Given that, I will not probably get to my Thursday Throwback and will probably be back when the colllaged bag is done. Happy sewing...........Bunny

11 comments:

  1. Oh, I love it! The fabric suits the pattern very well and will be perfect once spring actually arrives.

    I am finding that I am making more and more the same petite alterations to BWOF as I did for the Big4. The latest is the shoulder thing. You seem to have a good awareness of your body shape, so I doubt you'll have any problems adjusting the BWOF patterns.

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  2. Great jacket. Good pattern for the fabric.
    Have you been following Fashion Week, because Rodarte showed clothing that looks a lot like your fabric collage. I think that it will make a much better handbag than clothing.

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  3. Beautiful jacket the color is fabulous. I love the fabric collage, can't wait to see the finished bag.

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  4. Congratulations on your first Burda WOF - looks like you are a pro now. Lovely jacket.

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  5. Wow! That discharge fabric made such a pretty jacket. I'm sorry that it doesn't fit the way you want it too. However, you'll get it right on the next one. Lucky you not needing a muslin. Or, maybe you do?

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  6. I should always do a muslin but in this case I went for it. I rarely do that any more. It is definitely wearable and fits OK. It just looks different than the original. What did Paul McCartney say? " I shoulda known better......"

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  7. Great jacket, congratulations with such a succesful first BWOF project. I'm sure more will follow.

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  8. I love the jacket and your work is impeccable! The fabric was the perfect choice for this lovely jacket!

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  9. Bunny .- this jacket is great. has a touch of elegance, something that is very difficult to achieve with this fabric so "particular". The end result is optimal and very modern. Congratulations.


    Bunny.- está genial esta chaqueta. tiene un toque de elegancia, algo que es muy difícil de conseguir con este tejido tan "particular". El resultado final es optimo y muy moderno. Enhorabuena.



    Paco

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  10. Bunny, Your version of this jacket is beautiful. The perfect marriage of pattern and fabric.

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  11. OMG - great to see this 115 jacket from Burda. I saw it and it was my fav in that month's issue. And I LOVE the collage - how totally creative.

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