Thursday, March 12, 2009

Throwback Thursday

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Once again it is Throwback Thursday. This jacket is circa 1994 or pretty close to it. It was the time of still some shoulder pads and boxy full jackets. I would tape Sewing With Nancy while I was at work and then come home and watch and rewatch my tapes. She did an entire heirloom sewing series, batiste, laces, and all. One technique she showed was Shark's Teeth. I became very intrigued with the technique but sure didn't need a lace and batiste top in my climate. That didn't stop me and I started to think out of the box. As I often do with a new technique, I experimented and extrapolated to the point of being quite different from the original intent. I made sample after sample , some being embroidered on the points, some running ribbons thru, etc. I still have all those samples. Then I honed in on a garment when I found the gradated fabric. It shades from the light blue to a midnight blue. The jacket is made of a really nice wool flannel with a midnight blue silk jacquard lining. I wore this A LOT, usually with slim black or navy pants. Now it is spending time in one of my totes of past garments. This is not perfect but my skills were not then what they are now. I really love how we can grow in this craft and again, it is great to keep the garments to see that growth. Hope you like, or at the least find it interesting.

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I haven't posted for a bit. My trip down South was extended a week as DSIL became v. ill and the emergency room sent him home with percosets for his kidney stone and said, "Drink", water that is. DD was leaving on business a few states south Sunday evening and he was in no condition to watch twins and a five year old. So Bunbun spent the week until DD came back. DSIL is doing better and life is now returning to normal. To say I am bushed after chasing twin 1 1/2 yr olds and a five year old is an understatement. But I must say I am very inspired to get going on some summer sewing for my babes.

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In all the excitement I left my camera at DD's but she says she will ship it to me. I am very nervous about that and will have it fully insured. My hubby spent way way too much on that gift and I would just die if something happened to it.

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Cissie, in the last post had a question about pattern sizing and how to get the right size. It seems she can wear a retail size 6 perfectly but is lost with patterns. Here's the deal Cissie: You have to put any notions of size or measurements regarding what you wear in RTW away, A BIG AWAY. There is absolutely no corresponding between RTW sizing and pattern sizing and many get caught up in thinking they are the same and end up producing unwearable, ill fitting garments. So let's start from zero here. Measure yourself carefully as the back of the pattern books instruct. Armed with those measurements pick out your pattern size. Give consideration to your build. I am petite, narrow shouldered, C cup, so I buy any top patterns by my upper chest measurement and then do an alteration for the larger cup size. This gets me a better fit around my neck and shoulders. Patterns are made to fit a B cup but Simplicity has now come out with a few that have the other cup sizes and I really like what I have made from one of those. So if you are other than a B cup, you will likely need to alter.

For pants I buy by my fullest hip measurement and then adjust for my smaller waist, an easy alteration. Again, Simplicity has "Amazing Fit" patterns that are made for slim, average, or curvy figures and these patterns actually give you instructions on how to measure for the pants.

Next, and most important of all, these measurements you are taking are just a number. The retail size is just a number. THEY DO NOT CORRELATE. Don't let your vanity get in the way of buying the correct pattern. I take a size 6 petite when I buy slacks. In the Amazing Fit pattern I took a size 14 curvy. When she was alive Marilyn Monroe wore a size 14 dress. The retail world has "vanity sized" their clothes and once again, I repeat, there is no correlation.

I hope this helps you Cissie and if you have any more questions just email me. The address is on the right. For years I sewed patterns as they came out of the envelope and I can't tell you how many wadders I had. Then I started doing my own interpretation of adjustments. That was a little better but a long way off. Then about ten years or so ago I decided I needed to really learn how to fit. I got the books, studied them, and my garments improved tremendously. Now with the internet and our inspiring blog sisters I have learned even more tweaks on improving fit. And just when I think I have it down my body changes again! So it is ongoing quest, this fit thing, and I wish you the best of luck with it. I highly recommend Nancy Zieman's "Fitting Finess". I do think she has re issued it under a new name but any of her fit books are great. Good luck. ...Bunny

10 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing the jacket - a lot of work in those points! It would have looked very swish back in the day.

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  2. Thank you so much for pointing me in the direction of the David Coffin video on YouTube - I had seen it before but couldn't remember enough information to track it down again for this post. :)

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  3. That's a great use of Sharks Teeth. I took a class on that technique way back when, and i have a book and a plastic ruler-type tool that goes along with it.

    I never did anything with it after making the samples. It's nice to see that you incorporated that technique into a wearable garment.

    Yes, I know how tired you are after babysitting the wee ones. It's a good tired, though.

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  4. Love the jacket! I'm going to share your photo with my local SAGA guild....we did a program on shark's teeth a few months ago and I'm sure everyone will love to see this technique on an adult garment.

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  5. Glad you like the photo, Marsha, and all. Make sure you tell them it is well worn and from 94!

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  6. Excellent use of the stripes! It nice to see the way you interpreted the technique.

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  7. That jacket is gorgeous!! I love the shades of blue. I need to learn that technique, because I do some heirloom sewing. Great advice to Cissie and to me. I am thinking about sewing for myself again. The thing that has held me back is concern about being able to fit myself with all my curves in all the wrong places.
    Grandkids are the absolute best. They do tend to wear you out, but since I don't see mine often, I cherish each moment with them, as it sounds like you do.
    Where is down South?

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  8. Thanks for sharing the jacket, it's very intriguing! I've never heard about "shark teeth" as a sewing technique so I learned something new!

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  9. Thanks for sharing the jacket. It is a great use of the technique and the fabric.

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  10. Thanks for this helpful information, Bunny. I was definitely on my way to producing a "wadder"! Now that I have gone overnight from a size 6 to a 12-14, I can proceed. Since my bust measurement is right in between the two, I suppose I should go with the larger size and adjust. Any advice or sources on a dress form? Necessary?

    Cissie

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