Friday, April 24, 2009

Ombre Wedding Skirt and Then Some.....


Design Dreamer asked how I was going to treat the back zipper opening. Els suggested see through snaps which I thought was a great idea and part of my original plan. When I did my initial sampling I played with some some selvedge edge and came up with my eventual solution, therefore, when planning my cutting I set up a center back seam with the two selvedges meeting. I did my triple zigzag to close the seam like I had done the other. In the area that would be the bottom of the back pseudo placket I stitched off the edge at an angle. On my first attempt I realized I needed to stitch my seam right where the thicker selvedge turns to fashion fabric or I would have a thick looking stripe down the seam from the right side instead of the fine seam that needed to match the others.
The seam was trimmed up to the zipper opening, pressed to the right side (when looking at the wrong side of the overlay) and then pressed again on the right side. This made the unsewn selvedge opening stack up in a placket.

The lining had an invisible zipper installed. The unfolded right selvedge (from the right side) and lining were stitched into the waistband about an inch from the waistband short edge. This left and underlap for the waistband "hook".
The folded other edge was put in the waistband right up to the sewn short edge as you can see in the photo. When the skirt closed it stacked up perfectly so then I sewed on the hook and eye, the large, flat skirt type, also in the picture. This lined up so nicely and laid down well enough that I won't need any further snaps down the placket. I think the less fussing on this floaty fabric the better. You can still see the width of the placket changing to the narrow seam but I think this is the best solution. It floats and hangs well and stays shut.

The waistband required a bit of treatment as well. It is a layer of lining and chiffon with a layer of interfacing fused to the lining. To keep the layers from shifting I pressed the lining to get a fold on the upper waistband edge. I then put the chiffon on top and basted down this edge. I then pressed it all flat and basted all the edges together on the seamlines. I did not fold under the inside SA. I did not serge it either, all to eliminate bulk. Instead I did the same triple zigzag on the inside edge of the waistband and trimmed it back the same. Once the band was sewn to the skirt and folded to the back I catchstitched to the seam, all to keep the bulk down. The basting was removed from the folded edge of the waistband. I'm pleased with it all.

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Who knew? I prefer Fray Bloc to Fray check as it goes thru the wash better in my opinion. I also like the much finer tip for application. It prevents waste and this stuff lasts a long time for me. I HAVE NEVER READ THE DIRECTIONS, just rip the package open and squirt. Did you know you were supposed to put it under hot water 3 minutes. Well, maybe you did. Sometimes my unbridled enthusiasm gets in the way of directions. I do know I felt like I had to knead the tube sometimes to get it out. So now, I will bring a hot cup of tea for me and a hot cup of water to the Fray Bloc down to the studio when I sew. Hmmm.........

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After I got three rows done on my smocking I decided I just did not like it. It did not have enough texture and there was too much negative space. I ripped it all out and started over with a different plate, one that is much more dense. I have been stitching away and like it much better than the previous attempt. As ye sew, so shall you rip....................Bunny

7 comments:

  1. I didn't know that about fray block. I am also the type to dive in without looking first sometimes. The smocking is going to be great. The skirt too. I can't wait to see the whole wedding ensemble together.

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  2. Hmm... fray block... I've been using my serger and my pinking shears so long, I forgot about that option! I'll have to pick some up next time I'm at Joann's!

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  3. The finished zipper application looks very nice! Thanks for the details! Clever use of the selvage. I'm going to have to file this one away for future reference. I think I also suffer from SADD, I wonder if you therapy would help me. ;-)

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  4. Very professional zipper insertion. Nice, nice, nice. Thank you for the opinion on Fray Block. I'll be sure to get some.

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  5. Beautiful! I have never read the instructions either.

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  6. Bunny .- a good place to insert the zip. you remember my dress for the bride? .. uhmmm. in the same thought ...

    good week, Paco

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  7. I've never read the directions for fray block either. It's always worked?

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