Thank for all the suggestions on my sleeves. Gwen, you are so right. The flat sleeve looks like a tucked in handkerchief! I thought the picture in the magazine was not particularly flattering to the model but felt I had to give the original design at least a try. It will be a deeper, softer ruffle. Thanks so much all for your very valued opinions.
There are several challenges I am going to face in the construction of this top. You can probably tell by now that the Burda directions won't work for my version. For one, I am lining the blouse. There will be a lining that will only extend up to front and back upper chest area, leaving that area sheer. At first I was going to treat both layers as one and do French seams. But then I thought better as there would be too much bulk with 4 layers for French seams. Then I thought I could do a traditional underlining and Hong Kong the seams, again, more bulk than I wanted. What I finally decided was to attach the lining at the armscyes and CF placket only and let the lining otherwise hang freely from the fashion fabric. This would give me the floaty effect I wanted. I decided there would be French seams on the top as well as the lining. So far so good. Now the next issue was how do I transition from the French seam to the tiny edge treatment shown here. Time for samples. Here is my winning sample. I will have only the two side seams of the lining and top to deal with in this manner. The side seams of both layers will be open for about 4-5 inches and then close up to the armscye.
Here is what I decided.Click to enlarge and see the detail. This is just a sample so my edges will be trimmed a little more neatly IRL. First I did the starch pressing on the folded edge and stitched the "rolled edge" up as far as it needed to go. This happens on each edge of the of the side seams and down around the hem before construction . Press and trim. Then I pressed the unstitched edge of the side seam open flat. That starch really helps in handling this fabric. With wrong sides together and a 3/8 inch seam and a 1.5 stitch length I sewed the side seam to the top of the side opening. This was trimmed back to about a 16th of an inch and pressed first flat, then to the side, then with right sides folded together. Now I did my second pass ending right at the top of the opening. It came out quite neat but didn't look finished. I tried a few things but ended up taking out some matching embroidery floss. As in smocking, I separated out three strands and ironed them flat together. This gives them that satiny flat look. I then proceeded to stitch a bar tack at the top of the opening. Now I am happy. So this will be how the lining layer and the outer shell layer will be handled at the side seams. One nice thing about this BWOF pattern is that the lower bodice has no other seams. Yay! Now I am ready to start stitching the actual blouse. Hope I haven't bored you with this detail but these little details are very important to me when I sew, at least most of the time. There is always the occasional whip-out but this not one is definitely not a whipout....Bunny