Monday, May 31, 2010

Green Dress Muslin Part Two

Part Two and final on the muslin. I had my usual gobs of fabric in the back bodice to deal with. First I did a swayback adjustment taking out 3/4 of an inch of fabric horizontally about 2 inches above the waist and tapering to 0 at the sides. That helped a lot but I was still left with a bit wrinkle from my sloping shoulders. I tried taking it in and it just looked too upholstered. Then I added thin shoulder pads and I think I will go with that as you can see. It created a slight pull below the back neck but I think once the neckline is enlarged from stitching it and the seam allowance removed it will be fine.
I know there is too much width at the back armscye, an eternal fit issue here. Years ago a tailor at a sewing seminar I attended told me to just scoop out 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the back of the sleeve as I sew it in. I find this usually works so thats what I am going with. Other than that I am good to go and now have the green linen all cut out.

I have decided to underline this with a white lining from the stash. I usually use that anti static or a bemburg. It's  not the Bemburg. I will cut it out and serge the dress and underlining together and then just proceed with the construction. A Hong Kong finish on the seams would work well here.  Off to the pink cave.......Bunny

3 comments:

  1. Shoulder pads are a good thing for those of us with sloping shoulders. It's looking good. I know that you need a sway back, but that upper back wrinkle is what I used to get before I started doing a flat back adjustment to my upper back. Have you ever tried taking a tuck there?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Looks good. I totally understand all your adjustments, as we have a similar body. Interesting Nancy's comment about the upper back - a quick tuck and check might be all that's needed.

    ReplyDelete

Engaging commentary: