Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Badgley Mischka Lining Changes

Because I wanted to run the line of piping completely around the facing I had to make some changes in the directions on the pattern.
The facing shoulder seams were sewn first and pressed open. This is not the order shown in the pattern. Then the piping was attached. THEN I sewed on the bodices, front and back. I stitched from the facing side so I could stitch on top of the same stitching line used to attach the piping. This made everything come out even.  Next came the tricky part. The armscye and sleeve is cut square about 2 1/2 inches left and right of the shoulder seam, not real evident in the lining because of its flimsiness. I did the same, stitching just this top section of the sleeve again from the facing side so I could be right on the same stitching line as the piping. I think that's real important here. Once this upper squarish darted section of the sleeve was in I then proceeded to stitch the bottom of the armscye. Then came another line of stitching all around, 1/8 inch away. The seam allowance in the upper section was left in tact and serged. In the lower section it was trimmed back to the second stitching line and also serged. By following the stitching line of the piping from the facing side an even installation was had all around.
Another change I made was to the lining sleeve. Vogue has you gather the center of the lining, just like the jacket sleeve, the area where I smocked. I thought this might give too much fluffy bulk so instead pleated out the fullness. The bemberg took the pleats beautifully, really flat, so this was definitely the right move. I don't want to look like I am going to fly away. You can also see in this pic that the seams are french seams. Other than the armseye, all seams in the lining are french seams.
At this point I am still eagerly awaiting my organdy. If you are used to fast internet fabric purchases buying from Stauffers is not the way to go. But I have patience and it will come. In the meantime.....

what the heck are these little cooties? I went to iron my lining with my Rowenta and it has a clear tank. To my horror I saw something floating in the tank. I immediately shut it down and poured out all the water. Out came these two ironing buddies. EEEEeeeeeuuuuwww..................

3 comments:

  1. good morning, Bunny! wondering if the little critters are earwigs... those fellows who love a damp place in the summer... the ones with the pair of pincers at the back end.

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  2. Maybe these are some new creatures that can withstand the heat of an iron!!!! I think mine just would have disintegrated and come out the steam vents of the iron!!!

    Love, love, love your jacket. I must do this jacket. Have the pattern, not the time!!!! It's really inspiring me to put this jacket to the top of the list. Maybe I can do a light-weight fall color - here in the south fall comes but not the cold, so we are all looking for cool, fall-looking things to wear!

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  3. Seeing your construction details is so inspiring! I have this pattern and now I feel inspired to make this jacket too!

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