Friday, October 22, 2010

Chanel Jacket Details

I have spent the last few days finishing the lining. This is done by hand with fell stitches. The lining seams are cut back to 3/4 inch. The under layer is pinned along the seamline of the fashion fabric. The top layer of lining is folded under and hand fell stitched to the bottom layer of lining. It really went pretty quickly. There were just a lot of seams. Somewhere I read that S. Khalje recommends not having the lining completely flat with the the fashion fabric. So there is a bit of ease built in which you can see when you look at the complete jacket inside out. She also recommends in the Threads article that you catch the fashion fabric in your lining stitches.

Once the lining was done I started on the buttonholes. The first one was dreadful. It was ripped out and redone but the rest went fairly smoothly. I referenced Claire Schaeffer for this technique. You can see the buttonhole has been basted around on the lining side. Pins were put in on the front thru to the lining to indicate the length of the BH. The hole was cut this length plus an additional 1/16 of an inch on each end. Then I did a little triangle cut on each end.
I started in the middle and fell stitched around each BH. I went around twice and the second time I went in the space between the stitches so it looked and functioned like very tiny stitches, another Schaeffer idea.
Next I sewed on the buttons. They are shanks. They are from Ima's legacy and even prettier IRL. The background is a deep pink enamel. They come from her collection of antique buttons. I only wish I had enough to put on each pocket. I really really love these buttons and am so glad I changed my mind about my choice.

Next came time to make 5 yards of trim. This picture for some reason looks pink. It's not. I pulled long lengths of thread from the boucle and ran a group of four threads through the braid. The pockets are complete and it looks really nice on them. Next I have to stitch it all around the outer edges of the jacket. Any great ideas on starting and stopping the trim? I think I might try K. King's method of undoing the trim and running it to the inside with a needle. We'll see what happens when I get to that point.

Slowly I am getting there. The sleeves will finally be dealt with after the trim is installed. This sleeve measure 16 1/2 inches around at the upper arm. I just know this is way too big so I am going to make a muslin up before I cut the fashion fabric. My upper arm is 11 1/2 inches around. 5 inches ease? I don't thinks so. One of the hallmarks of the Chanel jacket is its narrow sleeves. So a new muslin will happen for the sleeves. The sleeve I am using is the 3 part sleeve from the Claire Schaeffer pattern Vogue 8259, OOP.

I am concerned about the trim showing thru in a lumpy way to the overlap on the bodice front. I laid it out and it doesn't seem to be a problem, yet. Anyone have experience with this on their jackets? Your experience using the three piece Schaeffer sleeve? Thanks. 


I have had several obvious hints that "certain parties" would like bags for Christmas. I also have a couple of commisions for bags that will then be given as gifts. It looks like a lot of bag making is in my future. This green fabric is one combo I am considering using. I love that green zebra...Bunny

6 comments:

  1. I have to say that your projects are far from ordinary. I know the jacket will be beautiful.

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  2. I am truly in awe of the construction and the techniques you are using to make this jacket! I can't wait to see the finished project.

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  3. OMG, this looks great. I have never made a bound BH in my life, but will now have to try.

    I love the green paisley, and the zebra makes a very nice contract.

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  4. On the overlap. I think this is a natural occurrence. On the sleeve, I've been known to "cheat" a little and tack it down "silently" - you know what I mean...so it doesn't show through either side but lays flat. In front I've noticed a lot of authentic Chanel jackets just "kiss" or meet when there is a thick trim (like the fringe trim so popular a while ago), but some do cross. I think this depends upon you. I've even seen some that are not trimmed on the under side. Personally, I don't like that.

    Maybe you can sew the trim down pretty close to the fabric and this will keep it from being too thick on the lapover.

    Anxious to see this finished as it looks so gorgeous. You'll wear it forever.

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  5. Its coming along famously, Bunny & as always, your meticulous attention to detail has me shaking my head in awe. Where on earth did you learn all this????? *deep sigh*
    I feel like I'm running to keep up & I'll never grasp it all before its too late. :/

    LOVE the lime colors you're going to work with for the bags. Lime & black is one of my very most favorite color combinations...like pink & green! :D

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  6. Such lovely work and a pleasure to follow. Your jacket will be gorgeous!

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