Friday, February 4, 2011

February 2011 Pants Begun

Thank you, everyone for your very positive comments on the red wool jersey sweater. That sort of commentary could go to a girl's head! It was a fun project and a new challenge and that combo makes for some very pleasant sewing. HOWEVER, my red fuzz attack has now been diagnosed as full blown bronchitis and nothing allergic. Thank heavens! I am sure the red fuzz aggravated the situation though. The project was done and two days later I was definitely worse. My darling husband, in the throes of the last Snowpocalypse, drove me to the doctors and that was good. A normally 35 minute ride took an hour and a half one way. Luckily we planned on nasty driving. My prince got me there and back home, tucked into the couch with my blanky like I knew he would. At this point I am still dealing with the infection, just a small amount of better and know it will take a bit of time. During this time I got the Feb. '11 pants and lining cut out and today I interfaced and serged them, not that much but at least some sewing. 
 
The fabric:   
 Poly/Rayon blend, forgot the percentages of each but based on the look and behavior it seems to be mostly rayon. It is sort of tweedy and sort of linen looking so it should be a good transitional fabric. Being quite ravel-y I serged all the edges even though the pants will be fully lined.  The lining is an anti-static poly from JA's. 

The pattern:
I will be using the same pattern used in the January pants,  a re draft of an older pair of pants I had made. However, this pair will be more like the original pants. It will have slanted pockets, fly front zipper, darts instead of pleats, and be fully lined.

The lining:
This will be a traditional lining. In other words, the lining will be like another pair of pants, connected at the waistline with the fashion fabric, and hanging freely inside of the pants. Next month I will either underline or flatline, depends on the fabric I choose. I am trying to expand my experiences here with pants. I have done all of the above but by focusing each month on a pair it should reinforce and refresh my pant making knowledge base.

Construction:
This pair will have a stay. My original pants have a stay across the abdomen and I love that feature. I really think it makes the pants hang better and makes the tummy look flatter. I have been doing these stays in pants off and on for a long time based on a pattern, which I can't remember, that had this feature. Once you make pants with a stay across the front you will be hooked. So, I will try to have some more details when I get to that point. I haven't seen a pattern with a full tummy stay in a long time. If you have Betzina's MORE Power Sewing she explains, clearly as usual, on page 109. 

I will once again use Betzina's fly method, in her first Power Sewing book and also on the Threads website. Its brilliant and so easy. 

Right now all pieces are cut out, serged, marked, interfaced and ready for construction. The rest of my day will be spent back on the couch and I will hit the construction tomorrow. 

I so despise Februaries! TGFS!...Bunny     


11 comments:

  1. Hope that you feel better soon! At least the weather is conducive to cuddling up indoors.
    I stopped using her basted seam method for zipper installation. I found I had better control with one that Claire Shaeffer uses with the front folded and pressed at different widths. It's also more versatile for other ways of constructing the waist.

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  2. I'll have to check that out. I have several of Claire's books. Thanks, Nancy. I am always up for something new!

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  3. I swear by Betzina's fly method! My copy of the book automatically opens to that page now! Feel better, and get some rest, sweet lady!

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  4. Hope you are feeling better very soon.

    Will the pants fit be different because the fabric is different? In other words, do you need to make adjustments depending on the fabric?
    nonie

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  5. How can you sew when you are sick? Rest up and feel better soon :))

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  6. Goodness Bunny - I certainly hope you feel better soon! Thank goodness for your prince!!

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  7. many well wishes being sent your way !! :)

    (and get better fast so we can see your gorgeous new pants!)

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  8. Hope you're feeling better soon! What a hero to take you out in the storm, too.

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  9. That fabric is lovely - hope you feel better soon. Stay snug and warm.

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  10. Feel better soon! Bronchitis is nasty stuff.

    I like the idea of a front stay but feel like it would pull the side seams. Or only if the stay is too tight? Thanks for any help!

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  11. That's a common misconception. If the fit is proper, it will not pull the side seams. I'll have a lot more on that in the next post.

    Nonie, different fabrics do fit differently. Having a master pant pattern does not mean you are finished with fitting. Each fabric hangs differently. This one is a bit unstable, IMO, as many rayons are so I am expecting some tweaking once it is constructed. I will use basting stitches until I have it right.

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