Wednesday, February 9, 2011

February 2011 Pants Finis!

These pants make me happier than January's pants. That's what it is all about, getting them better each time I work on a pair. The pic above is how I would most likely wear them.
The camera is tilted not me! I have a new tripod and this keeps happening so I have to work on that!
Here are some details:
  • The fabric is a rayon/poly blend, no lycra this time and I like that. The weave is that of a linen with some black and some copper colored threads. Like many rayons, it has a heavy drape. What looks snug around the waist hip area really has plenty ease. It just drapes downward from its own weight. 
  • These pants are fairly heavy. They are lined fully with a poly anti static lining. 
  • They feel great. That stay just seems to give you some sort of oomph going on in there. You can see that it DOES NOT pull in the side seams and yes, the stay is smaller than the pants, all just a matter of cutting right and following directions. 
  • This pair has slanted side pockets. They lay really nicely, again a contribution from the stay.

Things I did to this pair and not the last pair:
  •  The fit has been tweaked. I cut the side seams, from the bottom of the pocket to the hem 3/8ths of an inch deeper letting the pant legs fit more closely. 
  • I changed the crotch curve, lifting the front curve a half inch and tapering it into the back curve. I think it looks better, do you? 
  • I did Sandra Betzina's fly but also followed her suggestion to iron the stretch out of the bias rear crotch points. I stretched them with the steam iron and then re cut the pant leg.
  • I interfaced the rear crotch points with armo weft interfacing as suggested by Claire Kennedy. I think it helps a lot. 
  • I made the pants longer. Whenever you make pants you are faced at the end with the decision, do I hem for flat shoes, sneakers, or heels? I decided on this pair I would hem for heels. Maybe some of you tall sewists don't concern yourself with this but with my height a quarter inch can be the difference between looking chic and stupid. 
  • These are fully lined. I handstitched them around the zipper area and did a Hong Kong treatment on the inner waistband. 

    This monthly pants challenge to myself is all about learning techniques for making pants as well as getting a better fit each time. But that is not the only journey. Its also a quest to figure out what looks best on my particular figure. I can't buy pants that fit me. I need to know that I can make pants that will fit as well as help me look my best. Do you think that the fuller, straighter leg looks better or do you prefer the closer fitting style with its pockets? Please feel free to share your opinions here. This is a journey and I would like you all along for the ride. Thanks.

    Your comments re: the wearable art conundrum were very interesting. Thanks to all of those who shared their thoughts. .....Bunny

    19 comments:

    1. These are lovely. Lined slacks are on my list, but I am currently involved with some nice jeans.

      On an unrelated topic, where do you get your "bunny" tags, it is time I bought tags for my work and I like the idea of a symbol.

      Thank you for sharing.

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    2. The pants look so good on you. i am attempting to establish a TNT pants pattern, but have not yet achieved the fit I need. Like you, I cannot buy pants that fit well. I wear a "petite plus" which makes most everything is too long if it fits otherwise. Watching your progress in the art of sewing well-fitting, well-finished pants is very helpful. Thank you!

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    3. I purchased my "bunny" tags at my favorite fabric store, The Fabric Fix in Manchester NH. I got a roll of probably a thousand bunnies for a dollar! Can't beat that. I hope to hit the Fix on my next trip down next week. My plan is to get some skirt fabrics and some more wool jersey.

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    4. Great job, I can see the improvements! I like the fit of this pair better, and the pockets are such a nice addition. I'm hoping to cut another pair of pants for myself tonite, as I'm loving the fit of my new TNT pants pattern, and need more, more, more of them!

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    5. The pants look great and seem to fit very well. I really like the pockets and they way the lay so nicely. I like this style over the Jan pants. What do you mean by cutting the side seams 3/8 in deeper?

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    6. Like this closer fit and the fabric is beautiful. The more I sew, the more I find out how many of us have a hard time finding pants that fit well. Like these alot!

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    7. Very beautiful and great fit......

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    8. Nice pants!

      It's a small world. I love the Fabric Fix too! I went a little wild on my first trip. They had a huge clearance sale and I picked up about a dozen rolls of fabric with at least 40 yards each for $1 a roll. I have enough lining and mock up fabric to last me until I die... when I'm 367.

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    9. Hi Bunny - these fit you beautifully and are extremely flattering on you.
      I know what you mean about the finished length, I struggle with the same issue - yesterday I nearly fell over my own two feet as I tripped over the hem of my trousers which I should have worn with heels, but wore with flats...

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    10. When the fit is as staggeringly good as this - and it is amazing - I think the slightly narrrower pocketed pants look best. I always find a lining troublesome when it comes to ironing pants after washing - but maybe these are dry clean only? Certainly they hang beautifully. Congratulations

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    11. Cynthia, instead of taking a five eighth inch seam I took a one inch seam, making it 3/8ths of an inch bigger/deeper. Hope I am clear.

      Thanks so much, all. Seams the more fitted pant is a hit. Next month will be flat lining a pair and a special waistband which I love to use.

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    12. Pants look great on you, Bunny. You are inspiring me to finally attempt pants! I love that they are pretty on the inside, too. Looks like they feel heavenly on the body.

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    13. These look wonderful. Fabric choice is part of the success of pants - something I don't always pay such close attention to. You've hit the nail on the head with these.

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    14. Bunny

      These are fabulous. Questions for you, I've heard of stretching out the bias point on pants, but usually linen. Does that apply to all fabrics?

      Also, never heard about the weft trick. What's the reason for that

      love to know the answer merrowb at yahoo

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    15. They are beautiful!

      Since we have a similar body shape, I'll say what I prefer. I can't wear pants that are too wide - little rectangle look, but prefer a pretty narrow cut over all that just skims everything. I can't do skinny pants, either, but I find that closer fitting pants don't make me look as wide or as if I'm trying to hide something. It is a hard balance, especially with the smaller waist making the hips/thighs look larger.

      That said, I do like the width of the legs on this pair and the pockets are perfect, functional but not hanging strangely or pulling open.

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    16. I think pants are such a personal thing. When I do these for my clients and students, and the end is what's good for you - between comfort and look. Personally, for me, I can make pants in just about 2 hours, but remember this is my business. But that means I can make them all day long. So I have some that I know I will be standing in (teaching), some I know I will be sitting (driving or traveling) and some that are just comfy. So to be honest, I don't even make a final decision for me....I just make another pair of pants!

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    17. Bunny - I think that these are a fabulous fit and look for you and your body type. I like this slightly narrower leg better. You've really got me thinking about sewing for myself. I love your blog and the way that you explain everything! Wonderful!

      KathyD

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