Sunday, June 12, 2011

Burda 7535, aka, The Funky Pants

Let's not kid ourselves here. These pants are not your usual trouser cut. They are wide and they have big darts at midcalf. The waistline/hip seam is below the waist but the waistband is high, extending into the ribcage. Because I have a narrow upper torso and my body can always use some lengthening, I thought this pattern could possibly work. At the least it would be a roomy, comfortable, sort of artsy type of garment. It would take major adjustments to make it work for a 5 foot tall petite hourglass.
It's a given that these will be very roomy at the bottom and that dart would make things fall "interestingly", shall we say. But all of this appealed to me for a summer linen pair of pants. The pattern is Burda  Style 7535, one that you can pick up at any Joanns.  I started with a muslin. The fabric for the muslin is some I was gifted, a poly blend of some sort so it did not press well, hate those polies.  The linen will press beautifully. The first muslin was made with only the length adjustments. The original pattern is meant for someone 5"6' and I am 5"0' so we had to do a lot here. I shortened the crotch length a half inch. Then I took out 3 inches at mid-thigh and 3 more inches at mid-calf. Next length adjustment was to move the leg darts down 3 inches. I did your basic cut out the dart box and shift it down. I was not sure how this would work in real life as the pants angled in sharply from the dart to the hem. Here is the first muslin with length adjustments only.
You can see how it bags out at the side. I put a green line to show what I will take in. The waistband is also too big from the center of the waistband to the top edge.
You can see my hand pulling it out with no effort. These pants have no zipper. A triangular shape overlaps at center front. On this muslin I did not trim down the crotch seam or slash at the start of the triangle in case I needed the extra fabric in SA.  It is therefore  doing some serious pulling. One thing I did learn with my muslin, aside from fit issues, is that this triangle needs to be stabilized immediately upon cutting. Look at how it stretched out just from handling at this point.
So now we are on to muslin number two. I think it is a bit better. I will now tweak the actual garment even further and am ready to cut. I think once the triangle is stitched and slashed some of the tension will be released and it will hang better in front. Fingers crossed!
Here you can see some of the adjustments and truing that happened with this pattern. Because so much length was removed some serious truing of the seams had to happen.  Notice how much wider the back leg is than the front!
 The linen is now cut and I will start sewing tomorrow. First will be fusing that wide waistband.
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Another photo from our last hike. This tree canker can bring forth a lot of imaginary creatures with very little thought....Bunny

9 comments:

  1. The pattern looks as if it were for the dutch boy on the paint cans. The first result is the way almost all pants pattersn fit me -- it's enough to make you cry. You have my sympathy, and my admiration for your willingness to do battle.

    Laura

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  2. This is an interesting pattern. I'll be following along to see the final results.

    And the tree canker? You are absolutely right. All kinds of creatures.

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  3. I am happy to see you sewing these-it's a style I love, and I am very close to your height (5'1"). I'll just follow your lead!

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  4. Laura, that is too funny and you are so right about the little dutch boy look. Thanks for pointing it out. My linen for the real pants is a gold color, thank goodness.

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  5. I love this style! The leg reminds me a bit of the most recent Tilton pant from Vogue. I look forward to seeing the final pants!

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  6. Two thoughts came to mind instantly when I saw your first picture: 1. Is she making this for a granddaughter? The girl in the picture looks young. 2. I dream of Jeanie!

    It's fun to try and wear something different. It feels like pants styles haven't changed much in the last 15 years. I am so tired of the dropped waist. I have a waist and I'd be more comfortable if my pants hung from it!

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  7. I like the interesting style of these pants and think they will be very wearable in the linen. They are definitely giving you a long leg line and it will be even better without all the extra fabric in the hip area that you plan to remove. The darts in the lower leg create a silhouette that is somewhat similar to that of harem pants but much more clean and "architectural", without all the gathers at the ankle. Can't wait to see them in your fashion fabric.

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  8. Hmmm, these remind me a lot of one of the Marcy Tilton pants patterns by Vogue. I'm interested to see how these turn out. I think if the proportions are correct for your petite frame, they could be really different pants.

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  9. I am SO it is you and not me that is doing this pattern - I would look like a beached whale in these things and they look so artsy on you!

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