Monday, February 27, 2012

The D & G Collar

Today I worked on the collar, all day! First I had to draft one and that was interesting. Luckily there was enough on the internet to help me out there.
This is from www.pattern-making.com.  Its a bit of a puzzle but eventually I got it figured out. I changed the shape to work with my vision. I think it looks pretty good. It is sitting on the dress form, flooded with steam, and hopefully will dry out and hold its shape. The lapels you see are hanging out of the way but this will be double breasted. Tomorrow I will work on that part and the  button holes. The sleeves will be last of all. I have to make sure I have enough bias before I finish those.


I am so pleased with how this pattern fit that I committed it to official TNT status by working it up yesterday on some oaktag. It will get added to the TNT collection but I already have plans for another out of faux leather. As far as when that will get stitched up, well, it depends on the weather. We are back to full blown winter so it may be soon. I also have in the queue a couple of dresses for Sophie and Carly. Lots of sewing going on here!

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I have had numerous emails/questions on the seam treatment. I just want to mention that the garment seams are normal 5/8 inch seams as you would sew on any garment. They are not inside out, on the front, or bound in any way. They are simply stitched and pressed open all on the wrong side. The bias silk strips are all surface embellishment topstitched over the seams on the right side of the garment. Hope this makes it all a little clearer. If not, please let me know. Tomorrow the buttonholes!!!.Bunny

16 comments:

  1. Thanks for the additional information Bunny! Now, going back to your previous post, it makes complete sense. LOL! The concept, although you explained it perfectly, was escaping me.

    Love the way this is turning out!!! The collar looks great. :)

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  2. You are such an amazing seamstress. This is looking fabulous.

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  3. Oh, lightbulb moment! The bias strip is folded in half, and topstitched to the right side on the seamline. Which is exactly what you said. Duh. You made me buy your TNT pattern. Believe me, it's in good company with the other few hundred in my pattern cabinet! I have my new TNT, and making a trial garment with it. Oh, and did you see the new Threads? There's an article about making changes to a TNT.

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  4. Looking awesome, and I've probably mentioned this already, your colors are fabulous! I wish I had the nerve to match the print silk with the boucle. Your photo reminds me, did you ever do anything with the duct tape form? Or does your dress form work pretty well?

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    2. (corrected for typos) My duct tape form is tucked in a corner right now, I think ready for the trash. Not long after making it, it just sort of changed shape. If you look at me from the side my front to back is relatively narrow. A few weeks after making the form, it seemed to get rounder and deeper from front to back. I am sure it is the way I stuffed it. I thought maybe if I took some stuffing out and tried to reshape it to its original shape I would be fine but I just couldn't get it to go back. So it sits there, not really my shape, just staring at me from my back room. One day, probably this summer, I will try another, maybe the paper tape method. In the meantime my trusty old form is still in use all the time. Its the perfect height and just a small bit off. The shoulders are a bit wider than mine but can't get any narrower and its a petite. She has been a loyal friend so I will keep the relationship!

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  5. Looking good! I know what you mean about digging around on the Internet for helpful info. I finally bit the bullet, and bought a used copy of the Armstrong Patterndrafting textbook. By hook or by crook, I'll learn how to draft a pattern yet...

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  6. thanks for the clarification I thought the seams where on the outside of the garment . Now it makes sense. Love the look this jacket. Your collar looks wonderfu.

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  7. I appreciate the clarification too as I'm gonna steal your technique on the next jacket I have planned - hope that's okay? Your sewing is perfection as usual!

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    1. Be my guest! Hope to see your finished product. Shoot me an email when done and link back if you can.

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  8. This is going to be spectacular.

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  9. Your collar turned out beautiful. Your pink boucle is causing me some serious fabric envy!

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  10. Also, where do you get the oaktag for your TNT patterns?

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    1. I simply use legal size manila folders. They are cheap and readily available up here in the boonies.I get mine at Kmart.

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