Thursday, February 16, 2012

The D & G Jacket, Simp 2284

On to some long thought about garment sewing with a touch of Spring. This jacket is going to be a knockoff of this Dolce & Gabana jacket that I fell in love with last fall.
My version will have shoulder princess seams but only a center back seam in the back. The sleeves will be two piece. The charmeuse lining will be quilted to the jacket as in the original and I haven't quite worked out the the seam situation yet. The seams appear to be  bias silk and rather sloppy, I might add! I think I will do a raw edge. The front of this jacket has a small double breast and collar. I am using Simplicity 2284, View D, which meets at center front and no collar.
So a wee bit of drafting will take place here. I may morph something from another pattern to pull this off. In the meantime I worked up a muslin this morning. This jacket is one of the "cup" patterns. I did a size 6, C cup, and morphed to 12 at the hips.

I did all my usual "petiting" business and it looks pretty good, I think. It can use some slight tweaking but I think once it is made up in another fabric that will be the time to just further tweak it. There's a bit of space in the upper chest, as always, but using a fluffy boucle might eat that up so we'll see what happens at that time.  I put in shoulder pads for the back view and obviously they slipped . I will add some "slim" shoulder pads, homemade, once I do the jacket. I'm am comfortable enough with this to start cutting. A word to those who don't do muslins: This took me one hour from start to finish, including sleeves which you can't see here, well worth the effort, IMO. Off the soapbox....

For the construction I will block fuse the boucle to some Pam Erny interfacing, I believe its a weft insertion, light weight. It's actually yummy. I am not doing a full blown Chanel here but will use a few techniques as I see fit. This will evolve, but I have a much better handle on this evolution than I did on the slipcover! So I am feeling confident it will work out nicely. I just have to try some seam samples.

Glad you all liked the slipcover project. It was stressful and a great learning experience. You have to be open to new techniques and you have to stick with them. How else would we learn? Thanks for all your lovely comments. I am so not a wadder person. I just feel that my efforts have a value and it behooves me to see things through to the end. Nuff philosophy!

DH and I will be traveling next week, our usual Southern New England/Boston/NH circuit. I am not sure when we will be back but I am anxious to get this jacket going. Till I am back from the other side......Bunny

14 comments:

  1. That will be a gorgeous jacket. The bound edges and seams are an interesting detail. Safe trip.

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  2. I think your throne is just lovely! And I cannot wait to see how the jacket progresses!

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  3. This will be gorgeous. The fabrics are lovely!

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  4. I am so intrigued with the floral edging with the textural fabric- very inspiring. I'm gathering my popcorn and a cozy chair to watch your progress!

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  5. I remember that jacket and it's a standout. I can't wait to see your version.

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  6. ohhhhh nice looking jacket - I am not a great one for doing muslin's perhaps my results would be better if I did.
    Enjoy your trip.

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  7. That looks really good. Great inspiration jacket. And I am with you on avoiding wadders at almost all cost.

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  8. I have some fabric similar to yours and was wondering what to do with it......well......I could copy......

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  9. I love your jacket! I also have similar fabric - of course, mine is blue and it's a silk weave! :) I wish I was brave enough to try a jacket. Maybe as I watch you work on yours, I'll think about trying mine. I know you'll be making a lovely version of this jacket! I love the seam detail!

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    1. Kathy, IMO, if you start with a shoulder princess seam style, I think you can fit anyone. There are just so many opportunities for fit. I like the shoulder princess seams on the back. This pattern didn't have that detail but it did offer a center back seam for adjustment. I did do my usual swayback adjustment on it.

      One thing I noticed about this pattern is that the side seams are set more toward the back. I like that.

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  10. I love the colors you chose for the jacket. What is the fiber content of the boucle? I agree, those seams do look a bit sloppy. Maybe they just need to be sewn in correctly. Have a great trip!

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    1. The boucle is a cotton/acrylic blend. I think I have decided how to do the seam embellishment so more to come on that shortly.

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  11. We all know you can do a better job on those seams than Dolce & Gabana!!! You could probably teach them a thing or two!
    I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the fabrics you've picked....PREEETTTYYYY!! Very Spring-like & we're all anxious for some of that.

    ~~safe travel vibes~~, my friend,
    Talk to you when you get back home.
    fondly,
    Rett

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  12. Love that jacket! What a great job and what wonderful inspiration! Perfect for Spring!

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