Saturday, March 3, 2012

The Dolce & Gabana Jacket Completed

The final word: I like it a lot. It's comfy, fits really nicely, just skimming things, and I know I will get a lot of use from this when it gets a tad cooler. Here's the 411:


Fabric:  The boucle, I'm embarrassed to say, was from Joann's clearance and scored for 3.00 a yard. It's 60% cotton and 40 % acrylic. It was washed and dried in the machine twice and came out  beautifully so my usually fabric snobbery got put aside for this one. The lining, on the other hand, is a silk charmeuse print that ran about 20 dollars a yard and was from Thai silks. It is so yummy. If you  have made one of these jackets you know how luscious they feel to wear. This one is no different thanks to the lovely silk. The boucle is fused to a lightweight tricot and I will definitely do that again. A lot about this jacket is Chanel technique and a lot is sacrilegious. I cherry picked how I wanted to make this and since the sewing police were busy going after the big criminals, I got away with it.

Construction:  This is where it gets interesting and here are the highlights.

*    The boucle was block fused to nylon tricot fusible interfacing. Will definitely do that again. (Not Chanel).
*    Seams were traditional  5/8ths on the inside. The outside of the seam was embellished with bias silk strips  with one turned under edge and one raw edge. The edges were brushed to promote fraying The interior seams were not overcast down. For one, the fusible prevented the fabric from fraying so this technique was not needed to finish the seams. Also, the stitching required for the bias strips secured  both of the seams down. (Not Chanel)
*    The side fronts were cut on the bias, something not in the pattern. This was to eliminate pattern matching issues and add a bit of interest. 
*    The silk lining was machine quilted to the boucle (Chanel).
*    The lining, other than the armholes, was totally stitched together with tiny fell stitches all by hand. (Chanel)
*    The sleeves have the lining/fashion fabric stitched as one to the bodice lining/fashion fabric. (Not Chanel).
*    Sleeve seam allowances have a cording stitched along the cap and are bound with more charmeuse. (Not Chanel)
*    The collar was put on in a unique fashion to eliminate facings and come up with an edge to edge lining. While the collar technique is my own, sewing the lining edge to edge with the jacket is definitely Chanel.  Here you can see the wrong side of the collar and how it is triple zigzagged to the upper collar to keep it crisp and give it a roll. My post of two days ago has details of how that was achieved.(Chanel)

*    The buttonholes were machine stitched. They look rather large and are because a boucle covered button is not easy to get through a buttonhole. Additional length was added to the BH to facilitate. (Not Chanel)
*    Here you can see the boucle covered buttons. They have a tiny piece of charmeuse underneath to prevent the metal of the button from showing through. I made the first one without and it was definitely needed. Getting the boucle to stay in the button cover was not easy at all and an entire afternoon was spent making these six buttons. I eventually figured out that if I got the  fabric and button pushed into the little rubber thingy and then soaked the remaining boucle with fray bloc I could manipulate the fabric to stay inside the button and accept the cap. This was probably the most difficult part of the jacket. The Fray Bloc worked and they seem quite secure. (definitely not Chanel)

Pattern: I love the way this jacket fits. It has gone into TNT status and is now waiting to be made up again. My next vision is in leather with lots of zippers. Hey, stop rolling those eyes! 

The pattern, Simplicity 2284, I HIGHLY recommend. There is a really nice shape to the two piece sleeve. The side seam sits back from where a side seam would be giving the impression of an under arm panel and helping with the fit. This patterns HAS CUP SIZES. I think the bust fit is beautiful on this pattern and I did nothing but "petite" it by shortening the bodice a bit, something I always do. If you are planning on a similar jacket, just know that the pattern meets at center front. I added an extension and collar to make it look like my original inspiration from Dolce Y Gabana. Originally I remarked how bubbly the bias trim looked on the original. Well, its not easy getting it to be flat, let me tell you. But I think I scored a little higher than the original on that one. I think only a wet baby's bum is more slippery than bias strips of silk charmeuse.

It's time to move on to the next project. Some smocking for Sophie and some bag experimentation are in the offing. I will be pleating this afternoon. As far as the bag, it will utilize a very simple design and on the bag  the foil technique I have been aching to try. 

Just want to pass on a very big Thank You to all who follow and those that just drop by and visit as well. I so enjoy all your comments and appreciate every one of them and you as well. Thanks again for making blogging and sewing such and enjoyable endeavor for me. Its always nice to share with kindred spirits....Bunny




52 comments:

  1. It is beautiful. I enjoyed reading all the steps

    ReplyDelete
  2. It is beautiful. I enjoyed reading all the steps

    ReplyDelete
  3. I've been reading along and enjoying the process. There are things I will remember if I ever get around to making this type of jacket but I have to tell you that this is gorgeous. And it fits you so well! You can tell that it was lovingly and well constructed. What a great tribute to the inspiration jacket!

    ReplyDelete
  4. What a wonderful result. I so enjoyed reading all your steps making this jacket. It fits beautiful as well (of course).

    ReplyDelete
  5. Wow! Simply amazing, Bunny! It's your projects like these that keep me motivated to try new things and challenge myself in the sewing room. Thank you for the continued inspiration! So beautiful...

    ReplyDelete
  6. Bunny seriously this is stunning. I love the colours, the shape m the Silk everything. Can I ask a really dumb question? The jacket doesn't appear quilted on the outside , is it ? ie does the quilting go through all layers so that in effect the outside is quilted. I have never made anything so special as this so this is totally alien to me :-) .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lisa, the quilting is done by machine and goes through all layers, as do the "real" Chanel jackets. Because the boucle is nubby the thread hides beautifully on the right side. The first time I did this it was a leap of faith. It really is hidden and does not show at all on the outside. Thanks for asking!

      Delete
  7. Wow...yup, wow is all I can think to say, but I'm bowing while I say it......wow.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I don't normally find these kind of jackets appealing (just not my taste. I can totally appreciate the skill involved in making them, though) BUT I LOVE yours. It looks so modern and fresh. The jacket fits you beautifully and your fabrics work so well together. Thanks, too, for the level of detail you've provided in your blog post. I know that takes a lot of time and effort.

    ReplyDelete
  9. It has been very interesting to see how you made this jacket and to follow along with your construction choices. You must be so pleased with such a fabulous outcome.

    ReplyDelete
  10. WOW absolutely beautiful - I loved your comment about a wet baby's bum, very funny. The trouble is, you have just pushed the bar so much higher for my Chanel type jacket - thanks Bunny (only joking).

    I am giving myself today and tomorrow off and then I will see what I can do before I have to throw myself into work full time again.

    ReplyDelete
  11. It's beautiful, and you look beautiful wearing it! I think I like the lining better than the exterior!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Unbelievable that this is 3.00 a yard fabric from Jo-Anne's. Am in awe. Even more so because I may have the same fabric in a turquoise color way. What an inspiration you are. Your craftsmanship combined with your creative sense of play and whimsy is pure joy. All of it is wonderful. But the sleeves just knock me out. I have never heard of using a cord like that and can't wait to try it myself on something. Genius. Your collaboration with Claire Kennedy on the sleeves is a gift from the sewing gods. I must stop my gushing before I expire, being a 60+ year old, with the emphasis on plus, sewing fanatic.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Looks fab! and a very very and in fact better replica of the first!

    ReplyDelete
  14. Oh wow, it looks so wonderful on your. Beautiful!!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Your jacket is beautiful. I really appreciate the documentation you provided to illustrate your process. I now have a much better idea of the final product. thank you so much.

    ReplyDelete
  16. It looks fantastic! I can just imagine how good it feels to wear with that luxurious silk charmuse. Thanks for sharing your construction details. Just as an aside, I was looking closely at some jackets in the chanel store at Heathrow airport. Those jackets weren't done in the classic manner either! Even at £1200 per RTW jacket!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. These are all such lovely comments. Thank you, everyone.

      Delete
  17. Bunny,
    This is simply amazing. That silk is just delicious, and I love all your details. Gotta love the clearance table at Joann's. And all Simp patterns are on sale next week! I'm definitely getting this pattern, but I don't have the nerve to add a collar. But someday I'll get there.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Outstanding, Bunny. Your jacket is beautifully crafted.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Gorgeous Bunny! I love it. I'd like to creat one myself.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Just beautiful Bunny! And so beautifully made too. I love the lining - I hope you take it off and leave it lying gracefully over a chair often - just to show off that part too!
    I have a Chanel jacket buried somewhere half-finished - you've inspired me to dig it out!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Very, very, VERY lovely jacket, Bunny! Oh, my gosh, I love it.

    ReplyDelete
  22. What a stunning jacket!!! Came across it in Pinterest, had to work my way back to the original to tell you how much I love it!
    Margaret

    ReplyDelete
  23. Bunny - I have thoroughly enjoyed your journey on this stunning creation! The jacket fits you beautifully, especially through the bust. One of these days I'll graduate from sewing baby and childrens' things and get back to sewing for myself. In the meantime, I enjoy seeing what you are creating and I especially appreciate your well thought out, well written and well photographed blog. Thank you! Kris Curtis

    ReplyDelete
  24. Wow, you've done it again. I want one! And I can't wait to see the leather and zippers version.

    ReplyDelete
  25. great series of posts, I learned some fantastic tips and saw some techniques to steal from you. It looks fantastic and very much ready for spring.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Its Gorgeous on you, Bunny! Really flattering to your tiny shape & I love the colors in it & the funky trim. Very cool!!

    Leather & zippers, huh? A walk on the wild side!! LOL Can't wait.

    ReplyDelete
  27. This is, quite simply, stunning. My husband even commented on the fit, and he was just passing the computer. Not only is it a beautiful jacket, but it is also inspiring. I've locked this series of posts away in my mind for when/if I summon up the courage to make such a jacket. Thank you very much!

    ReplyDelete
  28. Gorgeous jacket that looks fabulous on you!! Love the silk contrasts....

    ReplyDelete
  29. Stunning! Really. Your commentary about this journey was informative as always. The nice thing about knowing and understanding all of the couture techniques, as you so obviously do, is that then you are free to "cherry pick", incorporating those that work and using your own methods in other places.

    ReplyDelete
  30. What a lot of work, but it is so lovely!

    ReplyDelete
  31. I want to thank you for all the steps you documented in making your D & G knockoff. The jacket turned out beautifully, and it was a pleasure to watch it come to life. I wish you lived close to me...I'd be knocking on your back door often :-)

    ReplyDelete
  32. You did a great job; thank you for the documentation. Looks stunning on you.

    ReplyDelete
  33. It is gorgeous both inside and out. Enjoy wearing it!

    ReplyDelete
  34. An absolutely gorgeous piece of art.

    ReplyDelete
  35. Amazing, just love this jacket. Love the fabrics. The silk is so beautiful. I like your version better than the origainal.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Oh Bunny, this is an inspiration jacket. It looks incredible on you, the fit is perfect. Love it!

    ReplyDelete
  37. Beautiful and it totally says "Spring!".

    ReplyDelete
  38. Bunny your jacket is gorgeous. Thanks for allowing us to peek over your shoulder while you were creating this jacket.
    Annette

    ReplyDelete
  39. Everything you make is done to perfection and this latest creation is no exception! I particularly like the bias cut front panels as a design feature and, of course, the fantastic silk seam trim. Your interpretation is 'spot on' with the inspiration designer jacket.

    ReplyDelete
  40. Love it Bunny - have fun wearing it!

    ReplyDelete
  41. Very nice jacket! I will try the sleeve cap technique when I get the chance..

    ReplyDelete
  42. A beautiful jacket! I love all the creative decisions you made -- and the more practical ones as well. Thanks for the information on the shoulder support. I agree with you on this point. My shoulders are small, my hips are not, and the Chanel jacket needs more shoulder emphasis to help even out the pear shape. The bias trim is great!
    Nina L

    ReplyDelete
  43. Just beautiful!! I have some wool that I bought at Britex this fall and some more that I found in my grandmother's closet. Can't wait to start on them when I get a bit more time. I will be revisiting your posts when I do!

    ReplyDelete
  44. What a stunning jacket, your fabrics look beautiful together. I've really enjoyed the Chanel techniques but I liked hearing about your own methods too!

    ReplyDelete
  45. I'm in love with this jacket...at some point and time in my life I've got to try it!! :)

    ReplyDelete

Engaging commentary: