Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Cynthia Rowley Meets Chado Ralph Rucci

I''m half way into my next project, Simplicity 2192, A Cynthia Rowley design that's been around a bit and I think it pretty cute.
 
The top is a simple box with a faced curved hem. Boxy things don't always look good on me but I am putting summer comfort first here to get a blouse that will give me tons of wear this summer at work. This is also the first of my White Shirt Binge, with two others all lined up in the queue. 

The fabric is a nice hefty cotton with the usual 3 % lycra. It is the drape and look of a soft aged damask with a sort of reptilian design.

I started cutting the pieces and realized the pressing I did did not take out a crease. What to do? I decide a bit of corded  double needle pintucking would be the solution, very Chado Ralph Rucci.  Simple blouse, simple pintucking, so I ran a straight line of PT down the CF and CB and used my hip curve to radiate two more from the hemline.

First, I lifted my plate to give me access to that wonderful little hole in the needle plate that sits in front of the needle. I passed through a bit of crochet cotton, maybe a size three. Pull out a good length behind the presser foot and replace the plate. In this pic you can see how the cord enters a tiny space between the plate and the machine. 

Double needles are threaded and raring to go!

 

I ran some painter's tape from top CF to bottom CF and after did the same on the back. I lined my needles up and started with that cord in my left hand for the first few stitches to get it taut into the seam. Then the machine just automatically feeds the cord. I made sure it was pooled in my lap so it could feed smoothly. Since one straight line down the front and back wasn't going to quite make it I took my hip curve and frixion pen and marked lines on either side of CF and CB. 

 They were stitched from the front hemline, over the shoulder, to the back hemline.


My pintucking is complete and the blouse sits on my form. I need to do a bit of fit before proceeding but have serged all the edges inside and am so close to completion. Mo' lata'..........Bunny

15 comments:

  1. Oh what fun!! Great post Bunny:)

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  2. What a good solution to the center crease won't press out dilemma.

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  3. Thanks for reminding me about threading the cording through the needle plate. I've done that before but haven't done it recently and you're right it really makes feeding the cording easy. Love, love, love how you handled the center crease! This is going to be a great top!

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  4. What a excellent solution, now a design feature! I love the fabric by the way.

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  5. What an awesome idea. I'm sure this top is going to look very cool. Will the pin tucking change the fit at all?

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    1. It doesn't seem to have changed it but I would think lots of pintucks certainly would. In a size 6 the bust on this off the shoulder top is 40 inches! I'm not worried. I do have to try it on to make sure the hips are OK, my personal paranoia, but they are forty inches also and I am not. Close but no cigar!

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  6. great idea, I agree that I think this is going to look fabulous

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  7. Can't wait to see the finished product Bonnie!

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  8. Love the pintucks! Thanks for the demo of how you made them.

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  9. What a great work-around the issue of a permanent crease, Bunny!
    Nobody ever told me about putting the cording through that hole in the faceplate. I've done corded pintucks before but never that way. I can't wait to put them on something, so I can use your method!!
    Thank you for all the wonderful teaching & tidbits that you do.

    You should link this post to StoneGable's Tidbits, Tips & Tutorials, on Wed. night. I bet there are TONS of young sewistas that don't know about this!!!!

    With grateful hugs,
    Rett

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  10. Thanks for sharing this workaround solution! It's sure to look marvelous.

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  11. Well gee, sorry I'm late chiming in here.....LOVE the tucks. And thanks for sharing your process.

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