Sunday, August 25, 2013

I think she's got it!

A little better, ya think? What a litany of adjustments took place to get here!

First I petited the whole thing. This meant:
  • Take a half inch out of upper back at the yoke seam
  • Take the same half inch out of upper chest, appx where the notches are on the front armhole. You can see the fold on this muslin.
  • Take a half inch out of the sleeve cap.
  • Drop down the armscye at the underarm to correspond with the width removed in the bodice. Forget this part and you have one tight armhole!
Next was deal with the stinkin' sleeve and how it attaches to the bodice. There was a big blob of unnecessary fabric in the lower front area of the armscye seam. This was not ease. It was ugly.
  • First I took a half inch out of the underarm seam at the top tapering back to the seam at the waistline. 
  • That corresponded with folding out a full inch along the center  grain of the sleeve the full length. How did I come up with this figure? I went and measured my grey cashmere coat that I made. The sleeves are very roomy and comfortable and I knew way smaller than this sleeve on 2153. It was almost a 3 inch difference. Between what I could reasonably take out of the top of the underarm seam and the 3 inch difference I compromised at one inch. Now the sleeve head seam and the bodice armscye seam had an equal amount removed. 
  • Tried it on at this point and while it was a lot improved that big blob of fabric still existed in the front of the armscye. At this point I decided to just follow instinct. It is not always easy to follow instinct. I always regret not listening to my intuition sooner because for us ladies intuition is always right. Intuition told me to just scoop that nasty blob out. I did not alter the shape of the armhole on the bodice. What I did was scoop out a curve from the underarm seam to the first notch right on the sleeve itself in the front of the sleeve only. Bingo! That did it. Are the Pattern Police coming after me for this? I don't think so but we are all afraid of them when that intuition starts to kick in. Take your sirens and your big sharp scissors and go away you nasty PPs. The Big I (intuition) has won again! 
  • And last but not least, whenever you decrease length in a front zippering jacket like this one, make sure you add to the hem as your zipper won't fit otherwise. What a nightmare that would be after all this work!

Thanks, everyone, for all of the great suggestions regarding my headaches. I'm leaning heavily toward an allergy possibility but we'll see what the doc says. Thanks to you wonderful readers I have lots of info to research and confront him with. Thank you again. You are priceless!
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Well, lo and behold, is that not the new issue of Threads? The one mailed to me personally in my own special manila envelope from Newtown, Connecticut itself? Sure is! Seems a hint I sent in was deemed print worthy and I am very flattered. Now I didn't get the B I G prize like the charming Kristine of Just Keep Sewing did not long ago but hey, it's recognition and I'll take it. Any questions on my hint, just let me know. A bit of expected editing was done and I am not sure it is as clear as I originally had it but that's OK. I'm here if you have any questions. What fun!

Coming up next, how I am dealing with the lining situation in a pattern that doesn't require one. ...Bunny

14 comments:

  1. I'm glad you went with intuition. I've learned to go with what I think is best because it usually is! The jacket is coming along really well and I know it's going to be beautiful! Loved your tip in Threads and I totally understood what you were saying even if it was edited!

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    Replies
    1. It's great to know it came across clearly. Thank so much, Carolyn.

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  2. I had not noticed that it was you who were the hint provider on that little buttonhole gem! Good for you!
    And yes indeedy that muslin is looking GOOD!

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  3. I wondered if that was you who wrote that tip! Congrats on it being published. You muslin is looking great!

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  4. Double YAY! The jacket muslin is looking great, and your published tip is even better! Congrats!!!

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  5. Ditto what Kristine said. Well done on both counts!

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  6. The muslin is looking great! Good for your Instinct, I'm not quite there with it yet. I was reading the tips in Threads and thought, I know that tip! In fact, you mentioned it in a comment on my blog. So it was fun to realize that you did in fact write that tip. Good for you!

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  7. Hi Bunny! I had missed your last post, so I went back and checked. WOW, this muslin is a huuuge improvement! Congrats on your published tip! Unfortunately I don't get Threads, so I haven't seen it, but I will try and track one down.

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  8. I read the latest Threads mag. yesterday and wondered if that "Bunny" was you. I thought you lived in Maine so I didn't think it was you. So happy to learn it is you! Great tip and a much improved muslin.

    Karen

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  9. That muslin is looking wonderful Bunny. Congrats on getting published too.

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  10. you have made huge improvements to that muslin - 10/10 for dedication, I question if I wouldn't have tipped it in the not sure pile by now.

    Well done on getting your tip posted - I have yet to receive my Threads magazine I think we in the UK have to wait that little bit longer - but what I saw enough was clear enough.

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  11. My magazine came this week but have not had the time to really devour it...so exciting to have a tip from someone we know! Your muslin is really looking good and it make me think it could be a basic shaped pattern that can evolve into other things along the way without re-inventing the wheel. The front sleeve bulge makes you think did they just print the sleeve backwards to start with making the excess towards the front...who would know until someone sewed it up and put it on her blog? Do I detect a slight smile in your latest photo?

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  12. Thanks, everyone, for all your encouraging feedback. I am going to do a v. small FBA to eliminate that tiny bit of wrinkle pointing to the apex. I probably won't get to cut the jacket till the weekend as I have a bit of traveling to do so be patient!

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  13. This one looks much better Bunny. If anyone could tackle that problem, it's you! :) Congrats on getting in Threads even if it is only a hint. It was a great one!

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