Sunday, December 22, 2013

Back to Sewing with Butterick 5960



Finally I am back to sewing and blogging. It's pretty interesting how intertwined the two are for me. We have had lots of visitors and the holiday has been priority for the past few weeks but I am ready to roar. I am finally excited about my new coat project. It is Katherine Tilton's Butt 5960.
It is rather bath robe-y, isn't it? But that's OK. I wanted something classic, waist defining but roomy and this fits the bill. My version won't be a stunning print like this one but an equally gorgeous wool/cashmere blend in black, ALL BLACK. Yes, much tweeking of the photos will happen so you can see the details as we progress. I have made my muslin and I will share that with you in a moment. I am using this, other than one tiny tweak, straight out of the envelope in the Extra Small size. I love saying that, "extra small size". Pattern land seems to be the only place I get to mouth those words! But an extra small has 46 inch hips and a 42 inch bust, all the better to fit my warm winter clothes beneath. I love the sleeves and they are very comfy.

The area on the upper chest at the join of the front and the side front has a bit of a bubble. I am always narrow there so I will push that over a bit when I sew up the fashion fabric. 

Above you  can see how I caught the fabric up when topstitching on the facing inside. I will be extra careful about that with the wool.


There are some interesting issues with this design but I still love it. First, the collar is having an identity crisis. It doesn't quite know it if is folded back all the way down as in some photos on Butterick or is it more a wrap style. The center front is also the facing and you can see the distinction with it being white muslin and the back, sides and sleeves being pale yellow. This is OOOooold soft sheeting and my wool will definitely work differently but I think I gleaned enough about the fit from this to proceed.
I have narrow, sloping shoulders. Shoulder pads are a given for me in any tailored garment. None are specified on the pattern. It looks pretty clear to me that the model is definitely sporting shoulder pads in her lovely version. The back is cut wide and the armholes low but not crazy low. The other day I wore a tunic to work that did not fit in the armholes of my coat. That won't happen with this coat. I like the cut.
Something odd about the pattern you can see above. The front armhole is way shorter than the back armhole. You can see how the sideseam is toward the front and the shoulder seam is toward the back. This is exaggerated on Miss Dumdum. On me everything hung right and looked OK. I realized this was intentional when the directions said to line up the underarm seam of the sleeve with a square that is set back a fair amount beyond the frontal side seam. Of course I realized this after the sleeve was installed.
Speaking of sleeves, that should be OK too. The sleeve has a two inch fold back cuff. You can see the correct length for me here, two inches beyond the hem fold, perfect. So I can make the sleeve as is and fold it up the two inches. I like that retro type of sleeve.

So I think I am ready to go. I am going to do the lining first. This simple looking pattern really needs you to read through the directions at least twice. Took me three times to get the pockets understood. I will save you some time and tell you that there are neat topstitched slot type pockets on the outside. But there are also big pockets in the lining on the inside, four pockets total. But  that isn't real clear in the pattern till the third reading, at least for me, and I found it very confusing. Anyway, now I get it and don't plan on any issues. Read this pattern if you plan on making it. BTW, there are no reviews yet on PR so I will make sure I get this up on there.

I am going to make and complete the lining first. It hangs separately from the coat. That can be easily changed but I think I will just go with the pattern as is at this point. I will be adding a few tailoring details that are lacking here and will post those as I go along. The fabrics in the very first picture are a cashmere/ wool blend, mostly cashmere but I forget the ratio. Sorry for the overcorrected lintladen pic. The wool  is lovely. The lining is Kasha, a flannel backed heavy satin. It makes a really warm lining. I've used it numerous times and love it. It is the same lining you usually see in fur coats.


And what is that bright colored business? That splashy shiny goody? That I am hoping will be my piping between the coat and the lining. Off white lining, black coat in the style of a bathrobe, gosh, I need something to jazz it up so that's what that fabric is bringing to the party. Hope to have more to share soon.
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It has been difficult being just too busy to blog and sew but the trade off is quality time with my family who are usually quite distant. I'll take that any day. I did re-discover, as has happened before, that when I don't have my creative outlet, I am not too happy. Just sort of a gray funk sets in. But get me to imagine making piping out of some extremely gaudy polyester and the rainbow sparkles and the sun sits high. I know you all understand.

Hopefully I will have more posting before Christmas so I will save my merry wishes until then. I will have a bit of a sewcation this week for a few days as I will not be seeing family until the second week of January when I have to travel for completion of some dental implant work. I am hoping to finish this coat during that time. It's great to be back!....Bunny



18 comments:

  1. Oh goodie! It will be fun to follow along as you make up this coat. BTW where do you purchase Kasha lining? Is it online? Thanks!

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    1. Caroline, I always get mine online from Vogue Fabrics. They always seem to have the best color selection. I had the Kasha in my hands 2 days after I ordered it. FWIW, this pattern specifies only a 45 inch width for the lining. Kasha is 60.

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    2. Thanks for supplying me with an online source! Will look for it!

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  2. Looking forward to seeing your coat. I know it will be beautiful.

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  3. It's always great to see your posts Bunny. That is going to be such a great coat especially with that pop of color piping.

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  4. This pattern is on my to do list for many of the same reasons as you have. Fairly easy to make and wear but in the right fabric could be so gorgeous!

    I'll definitely watch to see what you do differently from the pattern. I know in an earlier post you mentioned possibly adding some sort of closure. Have you given it any more thought or changed your mind? I'm in a very cold climate too and have doubts about how well a belt will work at keeping the coat closed against the elements.

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    1. I definitely plan on wearing it belted so that will help but I am thinking of some sort of hook or such at the waist. It just gets too cold here. It was 23.5 below zeros a few days ago!

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  5. Thanks for sharing your process details! I am planning to sew a coat after the holidays, so I'll be really interested to follow your journey and learn whatever I can. Happy coat sewing!

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    1. This would be a great first coat project, Mary. Not much fitting required and no heavy duty tailoring either. Just watch those pockets!

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  6. I'm really looking forward to seeing this coat as it's made, not that I plan to make one, but I always learn something useful from your posts. Your fabrics are beautiful, and that pop of color will make your coat unique.

    I sympathize with you on the dental work. I'll be doing that in late February. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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  7. Ooooo, LUSCIOUS!! This is going to be a knock-out, I just know it.

    A very stylish gal left our quilt guild's meeting, wearing a cobalt blue version of this same coat. I shall have to ask her next time I see her, if she made it herself. It was gorgeous...Barbara Bush Blue!!

    I like that retro type of sleeve, too. I will be anxious looking over your padded shoulders on this one, Bunny! LOL

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  8. Bunny, I'm glad to see you make this pattern - it will be fun to follow your progress. I've been eyeing the pattern as a possible make for myself, even though I live in Florida, for our occasional trips up north. For comparison's sake, what is your usual Butterick size vs. the extra-small you're making this coat? So glad to see you blogging and sewing again!

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    1. I usually take a six and do an FBA for a Ccup and widen out the hips. I also "petite" everything.With this pattern I just took in the front/side front seam a quarter inch total form the breast to the shoulder seam. You can see a bubble on the left facing side. My torso is narrow and that change would be normal for me on any princess seam.

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  9. That will be a lovely coat, this time of year i love to see all the coats being made. Just noticed the design change on your blog, love it!

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  10. It was time for something lighter and brighter. Glad you like it, Beth

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  11. I am so eager to follow this coat journey since I too am considering sewing my own coat in 2014. Glad you are bck to both sewing and blogging. Merry Christmas!

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  12. I really love the style of this coat! Can't wait to see it finished!

    Merry Christmas, Bunny!

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  13. welcome back to your sewing and blogging (you're doing better than me) and happy Christmas

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