A couple of days ago I began interfacing my coat according to directions. I owned the proper amount of hair canvas and thank heavens, as it is quite an expensive product. My philosophy is to put into the structure parts that are equal to the quality of the fashion fabric so with my cashmere, hair canvas was a necessity. I cut and got ready to hand baste the product to the collar/facing section which goes around the neck and full length the front of the coat.
Then I read Katherine Tilton's tip, "baste lightweight wool batting...". I didn't have wool batting and think that should have been spec'd in the fabric requirements if that is what the proper execution of this pattern needs. What to do?
Here is the section with the hair canvas ready to baste. All along I had been thinking of putting a stay in the top of the garment, front and back, to help maintain and fill out the fabric. I even thought that I would use some flannel to do that so I'm am not that off base. I just needed to change my plan a bit.
Enter the Howling Wolves heavy cotton well washed flannel! I placed my interfacing on top and proceeded to cut. The brushed side of the flannel will be placed against the wrong side of the wool, in other words, wolves against wool on the inside. In the pic above you can see where I connected the hair canvas with a butted zigzag stitch to utilize what I had of this in my stash. I made sure grains matched and cut.
Once the interfacing was sewn to the wrong side of the flannel, one inch from the edge, it was trimmed back leaving an eighht of an inch SA. I don't want the interfacing caught in the seam allowance with the flannel, just too much bulk.
Here you can see the section placed on the collar/facing section, right side of flannel to wrong side of cashmere.
Then I basted it all down and around with silk thread. Now it is ready to proceed to construction. I am going to take more flannel, no hair canvas, and do a stay in the side front as well as across the upper back. Needless to say this addition of the flannel will also contribute to the warmth of the coat without adding much bulk.
Once all was placed and hand basted I replaced the pattern piece and trued up the edges. I do this often as I sew a project. It is amazing how inequities show up. And we wonder why things don't fit just right and have little ripples!
This edge was trimmed up for accuracy. Now we can start actual construction! More to come!
Yes, we are one of those blogs where you won't see the fab fashion shots although I will give photoing myself my best effort. Like
Caroline and
Barb, I am passionate about sewing, not so passionate about my fashion shoots. I hope you have had a chance to read their great blogs regarding this subject with which I wholeheartedly agree. Click on their names above to link to the posts. I do promise to always try my best to provide detailed photos of what's happening in my sewing world and hope you all continue to enjoy them. I love to share my passion with all who will gift me with their time and attention.
**********************************
Is this a bad photo above? Not quite. It's here to make a point. I have a couple of chotchkes and a few inspirational patterns on the shelf over my cutting table. This stuff changes slightly but never walks off the shelf by itself. But then, 3 days ago.....
I HAD A CRYOSEISM! Lest you think that is something pulled from the likes of Fifty Shades here's what happened:
I was in my yard crossing the field to feed my chickens at about 7:30 in the AM. It was brutally cold and I watched the thermometer drop from 11º to -8º in an hour and half. There was no wind but I was freezing and wheezing as my very bundled up old bod made it's way across the field to the chicken barn. Halfway there I hear some branches snapping which always indicates some critter is around. Now that can range from a little red squirrel to a coyote or bear so I immediately stopped and looked around. This is not unusual. As I looked around, suddenly I heard the most incredible noise, an extremely loud "crack" sound. It was sharp and shook the ground. I was convinced some giant old tree was snapped across its middle in my side yard from where it seemed to emanate. Think of a pistol shot times 100. I know it's cold. Did my roof collapse on the back side? WTF? I after my adrenalin stopped its initial release I proceeded to feed my chickies while still on full alert. I knew something happened but not what.
Next day on our local weather there was discussion about cryoseisms, what they were, etc. Never heard of them. After researching and hearing this I knew that was exactly what happened. Back to the shelf picture...
I hadn't been in my studio in several days but when I went in yesterday to get back to work on my coat, this pattern and little dress form had fallen off the wall from our frost quake, aka, cryoseism. There are no poltergiests so I know that was it. Here's a little more info on cryoseisms:
Toronto cryoseisms
Wikipedia
Have you ever had a cryoseism?!!!....Bunny