Monday, March 24, 2014

Simplicity 1463, a Tons of Tops pattern


Simplicity 1463 is a great wardrobe builder pattern. It has six distinct tops in one pattern and I chose to start with View B, a back wrapping, shaped hem number.

Pattern:

Simplicity 1463 consists of 6 different tops. There are dolman sleeves, raglan sleeves, shaped hems, cuffs or not, etc. So you get six distinct tops in one pattern, great bargain! What you can't see here and only notice if you look at the tech drawing for View B is that the back is quite elaborate. It consists of two bodice pieces, on for back left, one for back right. They provide a lot of drape and a v neck held up by a tie around the back neck. It's hem is slightly shaped to be a bit longer in the back than front, not trendy looking as it is rather subtle, IMO. 
The back feature really caught my eye and was why I bought the pattern.

Fabric:

The fabric is a rayon jersey purchased from JAs. It did not need lining. It was a bit fiddley but that's the nature of the beast. Once again, I used the fusible tricot "Batting Tape" to edge my hems and stabilize.

Construction:

In these back photos I have on no bra. My bras don't ride up and the bra band was totally visible in the back. No worry, I will not go braless in this top! I love the way the back drapes. The outer right side is pleated and sewn into the left side seam. If sewn with a 5/8 seam it creates a big drape and very loose edge to the back neckline. It also makes the V neck lower.

 I solved this by putting in a half inch tuck (one inch taken out) right near the pleats in the left side seam. The tuck is in the neckline edge about an inch from the side seam. This caused the neckline to not drape open as much and raised the V. I do have one of those bras that can be converted to a low back so I can always wear that to be sure no wardrobe malfunctions occur. So my suggestion is to not automatically sew up the side seams in the areas that are left open for the  end of the back bodice to be inserted. Try it on and pull the bodice through the opening until you get your back the way you want. Then stitch up the side seams. You may not have the issue I had. My narrow back and shoulders gave no support so it all just fell and made a deep v neck.  As an aside, the colors in this photo directly above are true, no the dark version appearing in the other photos.

In conclusion: 

I think I have a pretty cute top here. Now that the deep back V is fixed I will be more willing to wear this top out and about. I can see it with some crisp white narrow slacks.  It is very comfortable with the draping back keeping everything loosey goosey. Elbow length sleeves are not my best sleeve look. If I make this again, and I more than likely will, the sleeves will be my preferred 3/4 length. 

I highly recommend this pattern and am looking forward to trying some of the other top versions soon. Next will be a review of the Marcy Tilton Tee.

I spent much of yesterday refining a muslin for the Donna Karan dress. Let's just say it was very challenging. This pattern, Vogue 1175, has more pleats, folds, squares, dots and unconventionally shaped pieces than you can imagine. Figuring out how to do a bit of an FBA was a challenge. I made a muslin and will have pics coming, but sorry, it will be on Miss Dumdum. There is some very serious decolletage in this pattern and you really don't want me to share a muslin of that with you.  You can see what I mean by clicking the link........Bunny
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10 comments:

  1. Well it's a great looking top on you too Bunny. Love the fabric and the back tie detail.

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  2. That is really nice, especially the drape of the back.

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  3. Quite the interesting top with such a cool back. Great idea for making it more modest and better fitting and being such a drapey knit you can hide minor alterations and tucks as your body requires! I agree that 3/4 sleeves would look better next time and actually be better proportioned as well. Now that new dress pattern...hmmmm...went to PR to see others' reviews...lots of fabric and gathers...looking forward to seeing it Bunny-sized in the future!

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  4. Great variation of a top. Looks more or less basic in front, with this special drape in the back. Good way of solving the deep V. Good to know that.

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  5. There are times when reordering the construction makes all the difference in how a pattern goes together (yes, I know that sounds dead obvious but c'mon). Thankful!

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  6. This reminds me of Simp 1614. Your pattern has more variety though. I'll have to pick it up. Thanks for the pointer on making the neckline correction. I love the fabric that you used.

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  7. I haven't paid much attention to that pattern, but your top is making me reconsider. It looks really cute on you:)

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  8. I really like the top and love the fabric!

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  9. Thanks for the review, Bunny. Your top looks great. I bought this pattern a few weeks ago and am looking forward to making it.

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  10. The draped back is really attractive. Your fabric is just right for the project

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