Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Vogue 1385, a Felted Wool Jacket begins


The muslin is cut and marked and ready for me to give it attention. I will be using Vogue 1385, a Sandra Betzina pattern. I found it critical to muslin this design. Some years back I had a bad experience with the fit of the SB patterns and have not used them since. This is despite my liking many of the designs. Betzina's patterns are based on her own sloper, not the one used by the Big Four. My understanding is that it is geared toward a more mature body, whatever that means. Either way, I wanted to know what I needed to do to make her designs work for me as I like quite a few of them. So I cut the pattern out exactly as drawn for what she calls a size C. Her sizing uses letter designations . The waists seem bigger in proportion to the hips and bust of the Big Four. My previous issue was with the upper chest and sleeves so we will see what happens. Do I petite the pattern? Do an FBA? We'll see and that is why this muslin is really important  and cut exactly to the pattern size. I want to know how her sizing works for me so that hopefully I can do the same alterations each time I use one of her designs.


I love this blouse/jacket. The neckline is very flattering and the versions I have seen on the web are awesome, particularly the one made by Shams  and this beauty  from Margy. I will use the darted version for a bit more shape But I do like the way Shams's hangs without the darts. My goal is to have a soft sweatery jacket to wear at work. The fabric is wool gabardine that I have felted which gave it a really nice hand. 


IRL, the fabric is not so heathery looking, more of a jewel tone. Felted wool can be cut and it won't ravel. This has major impact on facings, seams, etc. There will be no facings on this jacket. I have a specific idea for how I will handle all the darts. I think seams may be lapped. Haven't worked that out yet. Felted wool is usually a quick sew as it requires nearly no traditional finishing. But it does require some thought put into how you will dart and seam and face so this should be fun. I love a challenge. I am going to reference some of the ideas I used in the jacket that was published in Threads. 

My grey rayon knit top is completely done and I like it. I added a flounce on each side of the garment which I like. Pics to come probably over the weekend. This is a hectic week with work responsibilities so your patience is appreciated......Bunny  

20 comments:

  1. I have only made one of her patterns (Vogue 1390). I was a bit doubtful but I ended up loving it. However, I made a size C, which makes me think that size will be too big for you. I think a size C is roughly equivalent to a Big Four size 14, just with more room in the waist. For reference, I'm currently working on the Katherine Tilton coat you made last year in an extra-small, but I'm making it in a medium. (And I'm using a lot of your information for that coat, thanks so much:)

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    1. Good luck with that coat, Angela. Hope I get to see it when done. If I look at my bust and hip measurements, size C is the one. The waist is a bit bigger but that is not much of an issue on this pattern. I have always taken the smallest size in the Big Four and then done an FBA. This is the middle size but the right measurements, so I don't know. We'll see how it comes out and I really appreciate your input.

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  2. I think I bought that pattern during my last pattern buying binge. I do like it and felted wool sounds so nice, looking forward to seeing it,

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  3. Gorgeous color fabric. How much extra yardage did you need for this? The jacket should look lovely on you.

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  4. I started with a little over two yards, maybe 2 1/8 yards. I put it through the washer and dryer twice with hottest water to get it felted enough to not ravel. It is not thick like felted sweaters, which I am glad about, because it was only a gab to start with. It did felt nicely. It was a good quality to begin with and 100% wool.

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  5. I'm interested in your project as I purchased the pattern, too.
    I made her harem pants twice. My measurements put me at a C, but it was too big. I made a B the second time and it was better, cut still roomy at the top, where it is supposed to be snug. I might try it again in size A.

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  6. love the neckline, that I did not notice before. Love the color of your fabric.

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  7. Your fabric is a great color. I have this pattern and bought it because of the results of Shams and Margy's versions. I have yet to make it. Look forward to seeing your version. I have made several of SB's patterns using size C and D; as Angela stated above that is equivalent to size 14 in the big 4.

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    1. This may be really big for me. But I have repeatedly heard Betzina say to strictly use the measurements. Hmmmm....

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    2. I use a six in the big four.

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  8. Bunny, I pulled V1390 (SB) and V8922 (regular Vogue) to compare sizing. On Sandra's (1390) for size C it gives bust-36", waist-30 1/2", hip-38 1/2". On V8922 for size 14 it gives bust-36", waist-28", hip-38". The main difference is Sandra's size C is a little wider through the waist and hip. This is good for me because I usually start with a 14 and add to the side seams at the waist. However, if you usually start with a size 6, even size A may be slightly too big. Hope this helps!

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    1. Thanks, Angela. My bust is 36 and my hips are 38 but I am narrow everywhere else with a thinner torso. Thanks for checking the measurements. Keep you all posted on this SB adventure!

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    2. Flat pattern measurements can be misleading as I am sure you know. Women can have the same measurements with very different bodies. How do you want the jacket to fit?

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    3. I'd like it to fit rather loose, much like Shams does but not long like Margy's. I don't think I will have any buttons or closure either, just a thrown on type jacket.

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    4. Nancy brings up a good point. I have the same bust and hip measurements as you, but we definitely have different bodies! My 36" bust is mostly ribcage, while yours is mostly feminine endowments:) This is a great illustration of how using bust measurements to pick pattern size can be problematic. Nancy Zieman's method of measuring armpit to armpit to choose pattern size worked great for both me and my daughter, but I have heard that not everyone has had the same success with it. A lot of trial and error......

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  9. I love this jacket! I think the two you referenced look even better than the pattern photo. I know yours will be equally fabulous. One day I might have to attempt!

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  10. I have had the same experience as you with SB patterns. I really like the designs but have run into trouble with the sleeves. Nevertheless, I purchased this pattern. I look forward to seeing your version of it. The color you chose is so pretty!

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    1. The sleeves and shoulders were my issue too! Couldn't get any more uncomfortable so that's why I hesitate to cut the A. Thanks for the validation, Tomasa.

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  11. I'll be very interested to follow this piece. It is coming into summer in Australia but I love the idea of a felted jacket. I've never had a problem with an SB pattern, but I struggled to fit a Marcy Tilton recently.

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    1. I've definitely had my issues with Marcy Tilton patterns as well. Marcy has a different fit standard with a lot more volume in her designs. I like the looks but somehow they don't work on me. I keep trying them though as she is a great designer, IMO.

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