Sunday, May 31, 2015

Vogue 8630, an underlined sheath with portrait collar


The dress is done. The hat arrived on time and was the perfect color. The wedding was so lovely. It does the heart good to see all the hope of the world in the eyes of a beautiful young couple choosing to spend forever together no matter what life sends their way. The venue was gorgeous with a large outdoor porch and gardens that made catching up with family a delight, not always the case when the amplifiers are going full blast with the dance music. And I did dance! Now to the dress details but thanks to Dd Audrey who took the photos in her lovely yard. I told her I needed to have a picture of the back and this is what she gave me:


Forget Mom, show the sewing! She has learned well! Above you can see the handpicked zip with the tiny tortoise shell beads and a fabric belt I made for the dress as well. Let's get down to the real nitty gritty.




Pattern:  This is a Very Easy Vogue pattern, V8630. I have always loved VEV patterns. They have minimal pieces and can usually be made in quick time, that is if you leave out all the extras this dress ended up with.  A couple of things I really like about the pattern were the curves in the lower back bodice and the upper back of the skirt, perfect for those with some swayback issues. I did not adjust this dress for my sway back at all and it hugged my SB curves just right.  I did find the bodice a bit short all around and lengthened it a half inch and will lengthen it a bit more if I make it again. Another great thing about this pattern is that it comes in various cup sizes. I used a C cup but the missing length was all around,not just the front. The pattern calls for a lining. I underlined it instead.

Fabric: This is a 100%  rayon designer fabric and I wish I could remember who the designer was. It was on the tube when I bought it a few years back at Fabric Fix, right before they closed. The fashion fabric has a linen type weave and it's a perfect dress weight, not too light. I fully expected it to fray like mad but it never did. The lining is 100% cotton but much nicer than muslin and heavier than batiste but not as heavy as a Kona cotton. I used cotton because I knew the wedding would be outside for a good part and it could possibly be a very hot day. It was! I used a poly silk charmeuse for the Hong Kong seams and bindings.

As mentioned in the beginning of this project. I interlined the skirt with large hole nylon net from Joanns, the kind of stuff you make those scrubbers with. It did a wonderful job of keeping the wrinkles out of the skirt and I would definitely use it again. Since all the seams are enclosed, scratchiness was never an issue. It was cut out of the hem and vent area. You wouldn't know the netting was in there if I hadn't told you. It worked! The collar is 100% heavy white linen and faced with white cotton as well. Interfacing is in the collar and I used a woven interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.  When this project was started I majorly stressed over matching the print which I soon discovered wasn't going to happen. I think my "sort of" matching looks fine, don't you? The goal was to keep the bulleye effect away. 

Construction:  I read through the pattern a few times before I started but really didn't follow it at all. The first issue was the underlining. The cotton and the FF  were stitched together as one. All seams were bound, including the hem edge and vent. No facings! Holes were bound with bias strips of charmeuse. 


The zipper a hand picked beaded zipper. This was done by first sewing the seam shut with a machine basting stitch. An adhesive measuring tape was then placed a quarter inch away from the seamline on the right side. This allowed me to accurately place the beads exactly every 3/8ths of an inch on both sides. I used a back stitch and the zipper is as sturdy as any if not more so. Once completed I removed the basting. The zip on this dress stops about three inches from the top of the dress and the end is hidden under the  collar. 



The edges of the zipper seam have the Hong Kong finish as well. I also covered the inside of the zip with a folded strip of bias charmeuse. I love this touch. I feel like a princess whose tender skin should never touch anything mechanical! I can dream, can't I?  The three unfolded edges are catchstitched to the underlining. 

The neckline and armholes were bound with bias, understitched and catchstitched to the lining. 


I added the vent to the construction. The pattern has a "slit" at the center back seam and the skirt definitely needs some accommodation for movement. Personally, I think slits at the back rear don't do a very good job, pull apart, and just look cheap and like someone  didn't try, my personal opinion. So added a vent to the skirt. the edges wre bound. The outside of the vent was secured with a tiny zigzag. I saw that touch on a garment and really liked it.

I also added a self fabric belt to the dress. My hat was the major accessory so a contrasting or thicker belt would have competed too much. I had to "make do" to make my belt but it came out really well. I will try to do a tute on it soon. I used drapery header to make it, fashon fabric and an antique buckle, all pretty low key.

You can't see it but with the dress I wore alligator pumps in dark brown. I packed a pair of coppery sandles in my bag and put them on for the serious dancing! I told you I danced!  There is no black in this fabric. It goes from snow white to the deepest chocolate brown. My hat is the same color dark brown. I picked it out at a store in Disney, Chapel Hats. They accommodated me with the info I needed and I ordered it on line when I got home. Unlike my Macy's bed set, this hat arrived in perfect shape. I will definitely use Chapel Hats again. DD bought one of their hats as well.



The wedding is over. I am craving another round of "event" sewing but for now will settle in on some projects that I have been dieing to get going. First off will be a tunic out of the rust dyed fabric. It is near done already and I can't wait to show you.............Bunny



50 comments:

  1. Oh Ms. Bunny, this dress is gorgeous right down to the hand-picked beaded zipper. Love, love it. On top of that, you look absolutely beautiful.

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  2. A lovely dress and a lovely model! You look radiant in this creation and your attention to detail is always the norm. I hope you have many future opportunities to enjoy your dress and your new chapeau!

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  3. Such a beautiful dress. I love how you took a simple pattern and brought it right up to the next level. Your sewing is always beautiful

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  4. Your dress looks great! Love the hat. Wish they were in style around here.

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  5. You look absolutely amazing in this outfit, and you are obviously really happy. I love the way the white collar and dark hat work together, the lovely fit you achieved and all the amazingly intricate construction details. Amazing.

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  6. You look absolutely fabulous!!!! I love the beaded zipper touch too and the use of adhesive tape measure. I no longer stock them as I couldn't see the point, but I may have to get some in for just this :)

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  7. Now you MUST find another event to wear this again and again! Thank you for all the cool inside photos and details that make this VEV a step up!

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  8. stunning stunning dress. i was curious on the netting would turn out and it seems to have done the trick for sure. i am definitely going to try that one. great co ordination with hat - brilliant job

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  9. You look lovely. Your dress is so beautifully made. I have been patiently waiting for this posting of your dress. You did not disappoint. Loved the construction details you included

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  10. What a beautiful dress, Bunny! Your many extra touches turned this into a showstopper! Thanks for the post - I alwaays learn so much from you.

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  11. Absolutely gorgeous! The fit, the dress, the hat! Love it all and you look beautiful in it! And I will definitely be using your netting interlining trick for wrinkly fabrics! You've outdone yourself!! Again!

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  12. How wonderful and elegant you look in this outfit. Thanks for showing all details that are executed so beautiful too.

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  13. Gorgeous from top to toe! Thanks for doing the thinking for me...I'll follow your process on my next fancy dress.

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  14. Bunny, you look absolutely stunning in this couture ensemble!! Perfect silhouette from head to toe. The photos are fantastic, too. I'm so glad you enjoyed yourself & made many new & happy memories. Cherish them!

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  15. Absolutely gorgeous! And the hat is to die for.

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  16. An absolutely stunning outfit Bunny!. Thanks so much for including all your construction details. Susan

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  17. What an elegant ensemble! I love that you wore that big, beautiful hat. I wore hats years ago, and this post makes me want to wear them again. The dress is beautiful. I've had some issues with the VEV patterns, in regards to getting them to fit me, so haven't picked one up in a while. I would prefer more pieces and a better fit, but sounds like it's not the case with this.

    I've thought about beading my zipper stitches, but never had the nerve. I love how yours came out,

    Magnifique!

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  18. Your outfit is stunning & I love all the "inside" info as the inside of your dress is also a work of art!!!

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  19. Wow!! So elegant, chic & classic. Your attention to detail is fantastic. As always, your work is impeccable. The hat is just perfect for the outfit.

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  20. You look so elegant in your lovely dress and splendid hat, radiant and stunning. Thank you for sharing the many sewing details. What a lovely ensemble!

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  21. Oh, I would like to put your name on the lkist to be invited to the Governor General's Annual garden part. You'd put some other so-called fahionistas to shame. So elegant and the details you added are all perfect. My mother used to say, if you do it it right, every dress you make is reversible.

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  22. Bunny - your dress is so pretty and the hat suits you well. I love the details - I had no idea about interlining with tulle. Very pretty!

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  23. Such a lovely ensemble, Bunny! Congratulations to the newlyweds, too!

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  24. That collar is so striking- gorgeous work.

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  25. This is by far my favorite garment!! Just stunning!

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  26. You look stunning in your couture garment, hope the bride wasn`t jealous.

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  27. You are gorgeous, as is the sewing on this dress. Thank you so much for sharing your lovely creation!

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  28. Hi Bunny,
    I know I already posted WOW on your FB page. However, it is lovely to see all the details of the making of your stunning dress on your blog page.
    I have to admit to loving hearing about all the little extra details, which helps to revisit when I start my own little projects; questions pop up like, "which underlining would Bunny use?" or " what other techniques could I try?".

    May I ask about your addition from a split back seam to a vent Bunny. The last vogue skirt I made had me scratching my head over the correct construction of the vent and I was relieved lately to read that others have found instructions confusing. Would you be kind enough to share what you did to alter your pattern to accommodate the vent and how you did it, if you wouldn't mind.
    I think you looked absolutely stunning from top to toe. Another triumph!!

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  29. Wow!!!! what a beautiful dress! It fits you well. The hat is the icing on the cake. I remember back as a child that the women in my family wore hats for every occasion. It seems that hats are making a comeback.

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  30. Wow!!!! what a beautiful dress! It fits you well. The hat is the icing on the cake. I remember back as a child that the women in my family wore hats for every occasion. It seems that hats are making a comeback.

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  31. Ah, Bunny, your dress is fabulous inside and out! I so appreciate all the fine finishing details you've shown. We need to see more of this craftmanship on sewing blogs. You look stunning with dress and matching hat! Karen

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  32. You look amazing! It's a fabulous dress. My Nana always showed me the insides of her good clothes and said that it should be as beautifully finished as the outside, and yours fits that advice. You need to have someplace else to wear it; it's too gorgeous to hang in your closet!

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  33. Wow! You look amazing, the hat is incredible and the dress is stunning.

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  34. Wow! The dress is absolutely fantastic! The workmanship is exquisite. Love the hat. Love everything about your ensemble. You look GORGEOUS!

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  35. Wow Bunny! The dress is gorgeous and you look absolutely stunning! I'm going back to savor the sewing details, but just couldn't wait to tell you how lovely you look in this gorgeous dress. And you have so inspired me, I'm determined to make a new dress for myself. I'm sure mine won't be nearly as wonderful as yours, but I am going to give it my best! Thanks so much for sharing. Way to go Bunny! Linda S.

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  36. You look a million dollars. Your dress is fabulous.

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  37. Absolutely stunning!! The netting in the skirt is a great idea. You look just wonderful.

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  38. Smashing. You are worthy of Queen Elizabeth's annual garden party. I love it.

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  39. Beautiful! So beautifully made. The netting in the skirt is something new to me and I'll put this into the memory bank :)

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  40. Wow just beautiful. Your hand work is exquisite. I open put zips in by hand butbhsve never seen the bead detail before. Love the collar too.

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  41. What a stunning dress, incredible workmanship, and a fabulous fit! You wear it well!!

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  42. Absolutely stunning!!! Bunny, I am always in awe of your beautiful work. Thank you so much for the seeing tips. I see a few yards of large hole netting in my future.

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  43. Bunny, I am way behind in my blog reading, so I will have to read back to look at your construction of this dress. You look so beautiful in this dress and hat, I love it! My mom was a hat lover too, and seeing this today reminds me of how she dressed.

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  44. Thank you so much, everyone, for the lovely comments. You all ecourage me in such a wonderful way.

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  45. BEA-U-TI-FUL
    and that hat, makes everything look so put together.

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  46. Oh I'm so late to the party but Bunny you looked STUNNING! Just stunning! The hat is the perfect accent to set the dress off. So glad you had a wonderful time at the wedding!

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  47. Beautiful. Just beautiful. I love the couture details.

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  48. The dress turned out beautifully, Bunny, and it looks amazing on!

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