Monday, May 4, 2015

Vogue 8630


Right about this time last year I wrote about making a dress for a wedding with this fabric. I had the alligator shoes to match. What I didn't have was the time. At the last minute I caved and bought a little red knit number from TJ Maxx. That worked well but I have still been so wanting to make this same dress. Try again! I think I may make it this time. I am determined and will budget time each day to get it done.


The pattern chosen is really simple and I have seen some nice results on PR. The collar is really lovely, a design that flatters my narrow shoulders and long skinny neck. The dress is a simple sheath with a waistline. I prefer that to deal with my swayback. I will be doing the sleeveless version and like how the collar becomes a bit of a sleeve. The belt? More than likely self fabric. The fabric? Above you see a 100% rayon dress fabric. It's a bit heavier than usually seen but has a lovely drape, The collar will be an matching white linen, a heavy texture to match the rayon. Construction? It calls for a lining. I won't do that. Since rayon can "hang out" and potentially droop on a very humid hot day, I am going to underline it instead. The last wedding I went to, not far from this one, was extremely hot and humid and I think the underlining with Hong Kong seams will work better to support the rayon. I am going to interline with cheap nylon net. WTH.....I read about this some time back. A designer used this to keep dupioni silks from becoming totally wrinkled and the netting goes between the lining and fashion fabric. Again, to hold the shape and prevent wrinkles on a hot summer day. I am anxious to try this technique and feel I have nothing to lose here. Can't wait to report how that goes.


The zipper on this design starts two inches below the neckline and is hidden by the wide collar. Here you can see my beginning muslin. The form is tilting and no side seams are sewn. My sewing plan has me finishing the muslin tomorrow. Just looking at this I am thinking the neckline may be too wide and will show straps. Or do I go strapless? If I had more time I would build in a corset but not this time! The upper back is looking wide, which usually happens. I don't like the simple unsewn slit for a vent and think it looks a bit cheap. I think I will make a more tailored vent instead. We'll see. I also think I will hand pick the zipper, maybe with some beads.  This garment is definitely planned for dry cleaning only. I also think I will need to peg the skirt. Not sure on the length yet. Your vote may help me there.

I also have ordered a hat to go with my outfit and it will work great with this dress as well as with nothing else in my wardrobe. Once I put down my plastic on the hat I was committed to making the dress. So I am focusing on this bigtime. I still have a long queue of projects I want to do including bags and some more linen pieces. Spring has finally arrived here with it hitting the eighties today and yesterday. Yay!  So vacation and it's mandatory after vakay catchup is out of the way. The now dry green yard is calling but this dress has priority. Stay tuned.......Bunny

24 comments:

  1. I made this with and for my daughter in JoAnn's ponte knit...it was a real flattering dress! We lined it and eliminated the slit. She is adding a belt for some pizazz since it was a solid. They have you put in the zipper last and I wish we could have put it in first since we used an invisible one. Good luck, Bunny!

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    1. I picked right up on the zipper sequence. What I have done with the muslin is put together the back bodice and back skirt and then put in the zipper. Now I will put together the front pieces and it will be a lot easier. I often find the zipper installations aren't in the best sequence in patterns. It pays to read through the instructions and doing that muslin before cutting into the fashion fabric!

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    2. Where the 2 collars overlap is very thick but you might come up with a way to reduce the bulk. I'm so excited to see this wilder version!!

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    3. Nancy Z had a method on one of her shows, where you tape the end seam lines of the pocket flap together, then cut a new seam line in the center of the pattern piece. Maybe this would be an option to reduce bulk, even if done only on the under collar?

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  2. Will be following along because of course I own this pattern too!

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  3. I looks to be lovely, and you have a long slender neck. Lucky you.

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  4. love the pattern, Im keen to see the result.

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  5. I love the pattern too, but most of all I want to see what happens with the net. It sounds plausible....And I want to see the shoes. And the hat. With the dress.

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    1. I'm anxious to see that net technique as well. I think it may have been Claire Kennedy that spoke of it. It definitely was in regard to some silk dupioni pants and they looked great and supposedly wrinkled less. Fingers crossed.

      Brown alligator pumps, very dark brown sinamay picture hat a la Kentucky Derby and a thin self belt. Hopoe that works too!

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  6. If you are not lining it and the net will be against your skin, beware, it is itchy and horrid. And it will make the dress hot. How about silk organza?

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    1. The net will be between the underlining and the fashion fabric so won't touch me at all. The underlining is 100% cotton batiste so I think I am good to go.

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    2. The net will be between the underlining and the fashion fabric so won't touch me at all. The underlining is 100% cotton batiste so I think I am good to go.

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  7. My first thought for underlining would be silk organza, too. I'm itchy just thinking of nylon net! I vote for a pegged skirt, I think it's a flattering look, as well as a "nicer" vent. I would be afraid to eliminate the vent, unless the skirt is above the knee.

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    1. I need the vent, IMO. It's been a while since I added one on so I am doing my research. It's pretty straightforward. A pegged skirt definitely looks better on me and on pretty much everyone for that matter. I am anxious to try the net technique just to see how it works. I will keep you all posted.

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    2. I need the vent, IMO. It's been a while since I added one on so I am doing my research. It's pretty straightforward. A pegged skirt definitely looks better on me and on pretty much everyone for that matter. I am anxious to try the net technique just to see how it works. I will keep you all posted.

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  8. I am so excited to see the final version! That lining technique sounds interesting, I'm keen to see how you find it?

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  9. I can't wait to see the results. You have planned it out beautifully.

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  10. Nylon net as underlining for silk dupioni? Intrigueing combination. Looking forward to your dress (and your experience with the underlining of course)

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  11. Please say the hat is like the brown one you modelled while shopping with your grand daughter in Florida. It was smashing!

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    1. One and the same! Thanks for noticing, Colleen.

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  12. That fabric looks luscious!

    Nylon net as inter-lining makes me shudder. I recall one blouse Mom made me years ago that she used net as interfacing in cuffs, front facings and collar. Even though it was enclosed, it still itched, especially the cuffs and collar band. Everyone has different "it's scratchy!" tolerances, maybe a test before sewing it up would be wise?

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    1. When the layers are draped together they work well and the spring of the net seems to be working against wrinkle potential. Keep in mind, this is an experiment. I am always up to learn something new and will give it a try and an honest report. At this point the pieces are cut, interlined in the skirt only with the net, and underlined with a heavy batiste, 100% cotton. The seams are all finished with a Hong Kong finish and all is enclosed and looking good. There is not netting exposed anywhere to itch and again, it is only in the skirt. Back to my cave to keep working on it and filing the next report..

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