The Ray Pinafore, 2025's Epic Fail

 

Happy New Year and welcome to my epic fail of 2026. I guess you have to have one, right? This is the Ray Pinafore from Paper Theory Patterns. How about that big spot in the tummy area? There were lots of issues with this one.  Let's get this started with this reality check on the Ray Pinafore for petites. 

Pattern:

I thought this would be the perfect tran-seasonal garment to tool  around the house and garden and even wear to pop out to the supermarket. I had  craved this pattern for some time and was that the setup for disappointment? I think the pattern is really cute,  especially made up in the denim. The directions were clear enough but a few of them could have been technically better IMO. I'll get into the issues as we go along. Paper Theory says, " fits close around the bust but falls loose and straight  to the hem in a trapeze shape with no waist shaping." It is very snug around the upper bust and then spreads out A-line from  there. There are two  long slits on the sides the fall away from each other,  an attractive detail. The slits and hems are at least 3 inches deep. The slits are set on that A- line so that they do not lay on top of each other like a vent.  I like the look of the "spread". Two different topstitching options are suggested in the pattern. I did matching navy thread, two spools at a time. There is interesting seaming with triangle shapes under the arms. The narrow upper bust, those triangle shapes under the arms and the off set slit bands make shortening this garment difficult. It is made for someone 5'7". I am 5 feet tall . I took 1 inch out of the upper bust  and 2 more inches out of the lower length, mid-calf. I thought I would be happy with the longer length, not.

I made a size 8, the second smallest size.  I  pretty much take the smallest size in patterns but the narrow cut of the upper bust on this put me a size up. Next time I will  go 2 sizes larger or better yet, just put a zipper  up the center back seam. This jumper is nearly impossible to get into and I have VERY narrow shoulders and torso. It spreads out quite comfortably once you leave the bust location. 

Fabric:

I used a dark wash denim, 10 0Z. but I have no  clue where I got it. I know it was online but not  sure from where or when. This has now taught me to track where I purchase fabric on my yardage stickers that I put on all my fabrics now. I prewashed the fabric on hot twice. After construction, I washed it one more time before the first wearing. All was fine. After wearing it twice, I noticed the area at my waist in front was crocking fabric dye.  I don't know where it went exactly but the lines match up perfectly with my kitchen  sink/counter and my cutting table in the sewing room. Rub, rub, and the color is gone. I washed it again with color catchers, and the color disappearing continues. Could I dye it?  I don't even want to think about that. 

The fabric is 100% cotton and no stretch. 

Construction: 

I'll start at the top of my garment and work my way down.

Staps: You are instructed to fold to the center and then fold upon itself to make the straps. This makes one thick denim strap. I chose to sew mine wrong sides out on the  edge, then turn with my tube, put the seam in the center and topstitch the edges,  a lot less bulk. 

            I was really puzzled. I had to go back to the website to make sure my aging brain wasn't seeing things. Were the straps on backwards? The hardware was placed  in the back. Every pair of OshKosh  Bgosh coveralls  my kids wore  had the buckles in the front. Why were the buckles placed on my back where I couldn't easily adjust or see them? This was crazy and I deeply regret following the pattern directions here.  Given the tight discomfort level of the upper bust in front, those straps belong there never mind the odd look of them in back. Is it me? 

           Third strap issue is that they have you place the straps about a half inch in from the corner oc the bib in front. With all the weight of the garment this had you with dogears in no  time  and it looked sad. I literally took them out of their topstitched home and moved them over to the corner of the bib. I recommend putting them there to begin with. 

Bust Area:

This is snug. Do a muslin and make sure you have room to breath and carry the weight of the garment comfortably. Maybe go up  a couple sizes from your measured suggestion. I would .

           The darts are a bit high and I will  lower them next time. It's hard to determine where they should go when adjustable straps are involved. However, this snug fitting garment is doubtfully being adjusted down. 

Hems and Vents: 

             Here you can see how the vents are intentionally offset. You can also see how they are not mitered. This is a matter of the order of construction. It could have easily been mitered with a slight change in that order.

             The deep vents emphasize the length of the garment. I originally took 2  inches off the length. I can easily see myself taking off 5 more. 

All of the seams were pretty much stitched, then serged, then topstitched. This  pattern comes with deep pockets that also get topstitching but I did not add them. I  almost always eliminate pockets, result of a lifetime of wide hips. 

So what do I do now? You all know how persistent I am.  

 The stain: I thought I could insert a sash in the triangle seams that would tie in the front, sort of like this: 

 

.  

The straps: Switch them back to front. They drive me nuts the way they are. 

Comfort level: Put a zipper in the back. I really think this is a must to get in and out of the garment. 

Length:  Shorten about 5 inches. Maybe miter those corners while I do. 

So that is the plan. We shall see when it gets done. In the meantime I really think that spot on the tummy makes it quite unwearable. 

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On a lighter note, I had some terrific scores at the thrift shop lately.  I never see fabric or anything close at our local Goodwill. I buy maybe 2 items a year from there and here they are. I was walking out  with nothing, as per usual, and thought I didn't check out the bedding area.  I went back in and lo and behold, there were at least ten full,  wrapped in plastic bolts  of bridal  fabrics, untouched, never  opened. The bolts were marked 2 and 5 dollars a BOLT! While all were exquisite, I wasn't planning on making any bridal gowns. However there were several bolts of beautiful  eyelets.

I later looked up the manufacturer and these had a garment district address in New York City. These were definitely not new but  were in mint condition with never having been opened. 

 

I had a 30 yard bolt of this 15 inch wide border for 2 dollars.

The next one is a 45 wide piece of eyelet, 15 yards.

Five dollars for this bolt and it is gorgeous. I am thinking the Le600 blouse from DP designs for this gorgeous textile.  How lovely for summer! I have a last 15 yard piece of 5 inch inch border similar to the first, also 2.00 for the bolt. I spent $7.00 dollars that day for all this lovely eyelet and am so thankful for it. While I know what I will make with the wider piece, I have to give some thought to all that border fabric. All of it is lovely and I can't wait to play with it. 

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So there were some great scores in 2025 and an epic fail to greet the new year. I have loads of plans for the upcoming year, some I am really excited about. Some of that excitement includes  some great changes for my husband and myself. My posts may be sporadic for the present but I plan to  post as much as possible.  Life is such a journey, an exciting one! May you all have a great New Year, full of creativity and fun!......Bunny