tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post6968314651418810346..comments2024-03-28T09:14:59.192-04:00Comments on La Sewista!: NLS #8 Dartarama! Learning About DartsBunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-91294367115834070282014-11-29T18:02:19.881-05:002014-11-29T18:02:19.881-05:00I've been doing it since the 80's as well....I've been doing it since the 80's as well. Did we both get this on Nancy Zieman's program maybe? Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-73383727225843732972014-11-28T14:09:49.115-05:002014-11-28T14:09:49.115-05:00I love this post. Thankfully I had great teachers ...I love this post. Thankfully I had great teachers who taught me exactly where and how to dart garments. For example I have a really flat tummy and can leave the front darts out of trousers and skirts. But I definitely need two at the back, one longer and one shorter to deal with what my teacher called "the protuberance"! And one reason I like vintage patterns is that they usually have back darts and elbow darts which I feel give a better fit, especially on a closer fitting garment. Modern patterns often eliminate these darts so that many modern dress makers do not understand how useful darts are to get a really good fit. Anyway really appreciate these NLS posts which are useful even for quite experienced seamstresses.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-62222559402819652092014-11-27T15:03:20.049-05:002014-11-27T15:03:20.049-05:00This was a really great post!
I'm a new sewist...This was a really great post!<br />I'm a new sewist (sewer doesn't look right in print :)<br />and love following your blog <br />I sure wish I could find something like this in a follow along video tutorial because I have big boobs small hips and short waist with belly and I really want to make a dress that I look great in but I always end up looking like the big lady in old Popeye cartoons Alice the Goon!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11410196645119054888noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-49661818835029106602014-11-26T23:32:19.195-05:002014-11-26T23:32:19.195-05:00Thanks this was really informative Bunny! I'v...Thanks this was really informative Bunny! I've had some trouble with darts in ponte fabrics and I think this will help me solve them!Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)https://www.blogger.com/profile/02204627216540667980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-85481151398509120012014-11-26T11:03:51.887-05:002014-11-26T11:03:51.887-05:00"Great minds......." etc. Bunny, I have..."Great minds......." etc. Bunny, I have stitched my darts this way44444444 (cat on the keyboard) since about the 1980's. I get good, secure darts with little fuss every time.patsijeanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10362426384481772370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-77677067520831424442014-11-25T20:15:16.354-05:002014-11-25T20:15:16.354-05:00wow, another wonderfully informational post!! Tha...wow, another wonderfully informational post!! Thanks so much!!<br />JoyceJoyce Lathamhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08160629501236759910noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-4637728149977258262014-11-25T16:36:46.069-05:002014-11-25T16:36:46.069-05:00You're welcome, Lyrique Threads.You're welcome, Lyrique Threads. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-61980610198470466952014-11-25T16:35:29.899-05:002014-11-25T16:35:29.899-05:00You are so right. Darts are made to release fabric...You are so right. Darts are made to release fabric over the peak of a mound of flesh. That can be your bust, buttocks, high hip. tummy, etc. The apex needs to fall short of the peak of whatever mound you are darting in order to make the shape to fit the mound. Being petite, I can't tell you how many tummy darts end at my groin. They need to be shortened. Patterns mark the apex of the biceps, hipbone and bust. That hipbone may not be where your mound of flesh is found. Take your pattern and find your apexes and mark them on the pattern. Then look where the darts end and make necessary adjustments. <br /><br />Jo, for years I thought patterns were sacred. If they didn't fit, they didn't fit and maybe I just got the wrong size, or maybe even it was my body that was wrong. I now know it is OK to mark them and change them to whatever works. Luckily, I think our newer sewists don't feel those constraints as much as I did back then and are more willing to move and chop till it fits.Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-73323472151386110442014-11-25T12:57:35.290-05:002014-11-25T12:57:35.290-05:00They are a nice vintage feature. You can treat the...They are a nice vintage feature. You can treat them like the shoulder darts and ease and steam them in.Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-81214091143718524432014-11-25T11:58:58.695-05:002014-11-25T11:58:58.695-05:00You point out so many ideas about which I had no c...You point out so many ideas about which I had no clue and am anticipating putting into fruition. These are wonderful posts, Bunny. Thank you for the energy and time you put into creating and explaining them.Lyrique Threadshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12168467916080214662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-81786510200148966702014-11-25T09:14:30.788-05:002014-11-25T09:14:30.788-05:00Great post, Bunny and the ones leading up to this ...Great post, Bunny and the ones leading up to this one! One thing you may want to mention is dart length and where should bust darts end. We see so many so close to the apex these days. showing darts that can be shaped for high hip and swayback will help so many to realize they can be changed to fit the body. No longer do we have to follow those perfectly straight lines when our bodies have stopped being straight...ha ha!mrsmolehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16329515914613595719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-36773269401852809962014-11-25T08:50:23.547-05:002014-11-25T08:50:23.547-05:00This is so helpful, thanks! I will try the method ...This is so helpful, thanks! I will try the method for securing the dart and the swayback dart for sure! One new-to-me thing that I encountered this summer is elbow darts, on a vintage pattern. I rather liked them. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-72338801275058049062014-11-25T07:56:37.148-05:002014-11-25T07:56:37.148-05:00Great observation! Many patterns have angles like ...Great observation! Many patterns have angles like this mock up that I just drew off the top of my head. Others are curved which can give a smoother look as you say. What I really wanted to get across with this post is that you can manipulate the dart to work for you. It is not cast in stone and making it in more of a curve than an angle makes good sewing sense. Thanks for noticing that. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-41663128685549155392014-11-25T06:03:29.276-05:002014-11-25T06:03:29.276-05:00What a helpful piece! I have struggled a bit with ...What a helpful piece! I have struggled a bit with the angles of the darts on trouser seats, which I need as I have wide pelvis and narrow waist! This certainly helps my thinking about those. Just one comment. I note that in your waistline dart (I agree about starting in the middle and stitching outwards both ways) you have quite a pronounced angle at the centre. I generally incline to making more of a smooth curve there to avoid the point, which doesn't always sit flat, even with a clip. Anne Franceshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08751503421469462948noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-36551627737526457712014-11-25T05:55:54.751-05:002014-11-25T05:55:54.751-05:00Glad to help. Glad to help. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-77332615127474339582014-11-25T05:55:29.895-05:002014-11-25T05:55:29.895-05:00Thanks, Dixie.Thanks, Dixie.Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-69558210131060493272014-11-25T02:29:49.633-05:002014-11-25T02:29:49.633-05:00Thank you,I've been trying to up my sewing ski...Thank you,I've been trying to up my sewing skills and I really like this post,especially the last bit with the curved darts and a great way to fix my shoulderblade issues.creati(e)ve m(i)ehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06357712575108941408noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-37019342754777365012014-11-24T21:52:18.534-05:002014-11-24T21:52:18.534-05:00Thank you for this informative post. I like the wa...Thank you for this informative post. I like the way you end your darts, and will start doing that - making a couple of stitches in the take-up. A great idea!Dixiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14712003004658269721noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-71505706454673928652014-11-24T20:29:54.779-05:002014-11-24T20:29:54.779-05:00I just added some simple pics to help make the dar...I just added some simple pics to help make the dart info a bit clearer. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-32445611267573363352014-11-24T12:24:16.678-05:002014-11-24T12:24:16.678-05:00Angela, I will try to do some drawings tonight to ...Angela, I will try to do some drawings tonight to illustrate the dart changes a little better. <br /><br />Two possibilities to for your pucker. Gradually angle in and stitch those last few stitches right on the fold and then off the fabric. Puckers will show more on what I call "hard" fabrics, like the quilting cottons, muslins, shirtweights. Bottomweights and woolens or other more textured fabrics and knits, will hide the end of the dart better. Also, the dart is to provide fullness over a mound of flesh. If your bust is smaller the takeup in the dart may need to be decrease so as not to release as much fullness and lesson the amount to cover your breast mound or buttocks. Also, if you are a smaller cup size the dart needs to be a little closer to the apex, just a little, and lengthening out the dart may help also. Remember, cup size is determined by the difference between your bust size and your band size, the measurement around your torso where the bra band goes. One can be a larger sized woman and wear a small cup if the two measurements are similar. Patterns are all made for B cups. Hope this helps. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-37329602276360211532014-11-24T10:44:17.762-05:002014-11-24T10:44:17.762-05:00Bunny, I found your post so informative and helpfu...Bunny, I found your post so informative and helpful...but I'm a visual learner, so I'm having a lot of trouble visualizing what you mean by the jeans/angled dart and the round tummy dart.<br /><br />Do you have any advice/guidelines on the relationship between dart intake and dart leg length? I've noticed that when I try to sew a horizontal bust dart (about 2" intake), I always end up with a pucker. Doesn't matter if I'm using easy-to-press, pliable quilting cotton or muslin or difficult-to-press fabrics.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07491769963803022344noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-77686459867096245152014-11-24T09:13:35.427-05:002014-11-24T09:13:35.427-05:00Fabulous photos of dart stitching Bunny...I love t...Fabulous photos of dart stitching Bunny...I love the way you secure the tip of the dart and plan to start doing this. Interesting info on dart placement for pants/skirts...I am printing for future reference.Laura SJhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18146599519173951450noreply@blogger.com