tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78718558053490503042024-03-19T03:21:24.820-04:00 La Sewista!Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comBlogger1106125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-23393882464392826042024-03-17T10:27:00.001-04:002024-03-18T08:34:24.676-04:00Had to Refurbish This One!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPCBgEmrmhZ9pToP2Gl07rWUBl3mVE6naIMkJvhY1l0l_gHhQjpNqRH_3AYCjzwH7yoQK_jFM_n1P0ZL7-SCFcmAWWE3fWd-bIWLiS1jJGbM8VNLk2kqeLj1du3QeK63PZRBp5j987zc7a1fwjV7tnXWysOUqzTwnJ6vkm2v8EeKJE6APEvD9ld4CRD7Y/s6000/DSC_0053.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPCBgEmrmhZ9pToP2Gl07rWUBl3mVE6naIMkJvhY1l0l_gHhQjpNqRH_3AYCjzwH7yoQK_jFM_n1P0ZL7-SCFcmAWWE3fWd-bIWLiS1jJGbM8VNLk2kqeLj1du3QeK63PZRBp5j987zc7a1fwjV7tnXWysOUqzTwnJ6vkm2v8EeKJE6APEvD9ld4CRD7Y/w426-h640/DSC_0053.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>About 6 or 7 years ago , during the dawn of the Zipper Trend, I bought one of my rare retail items. It was a blush pink and black border print georgette blouse. It had a 9 inch metal zipper at the back of the neck The rest of it's style was completely plain as you can see in this pic:</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-xN5FtlaBPmdS9iFsRPl3Xn6zJ15wNbgbqaUBhXucpmcnzHmMM48ZuKbpv4nkfbCbdbLEtaCSLPWTqFXOOt8_HclzRWNs509GOkOdj7IXi2Nkic-4VDKmfSIlcFjh1R8fc7tfFAK47p7iICq2hhuk9lghxTAKeiM-DSEmc56bGo3v6hQ7Pb_ZE7ZpQ0/s6000/DSC_0096.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-xN5FtlaBPmdS9iFsRPl3Xn6zJ15wNbgbqaUBhXucpmcnzHmMM48ZuKbpv4nkfbCbdbLEtaCSLPWTqFXOOt8_HclzRWNs509GOkOdj7IXi2Nkic-4VDKmfSIlcFjh1R8fc7tfFAK47p7iICq2hhuk9lghxTAKeiM-DSEmc56bGo3v6hQ7Pb_ZE7ZpQ0/w426-h640/DSC_0096.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b>I loved this top. The fabric was what hooked me. In all these years, I wore it twice. I could not stand the zipper. First, I never liked the zipper trend to begin with. Second, the weight of the zipper pulled the ethereal georgette up and back and choked me the rare times I wore this top. The length did nothing for me but I sacrificed proportion for my love of the fabric. You know how that goes. When purge times came around, I could never rid my self of this top. I knew I would somehow remake it one day, even it it was just part of a scarf. Well, that day recently arrived. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKWYQbRWlYPMnX4jql7Uwcr-1ovVQC0Di2D39zv2eOqjb5pcoYSNkYRk8x8F3GR0y4TgeIxrQowm7pIhed7yPsPFXprLv5jDelxX1hag3OoHMEJBKFIM9XFvszahOMaE1TmezbbtFBUiLoF8zdaO9jQKHvjjCvVqWnkw4JBAE2LNlM0fD9Zr4WaxXZ6o/s6000/DSC_0157.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKWYQbRWlYPMnX4jql7Uwcr-1ovVQC0Di2D39zv2eOqjb5pcoYSNkYRk8x8F3GR0y4TgeIxrQowm7pIhed7yPsPFXprLv5jDelxX1hag3OoHMEJBKFIM9XFvszahOMaE1TmezbbtFBUiLoF8zdaO9jQKHvjjCvVqWnkw4JBAE2LNlM0fD9Zr4WaxXZ6o/w640-h426/DSC_0157.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I removed the zipper and turned it into a button loop slit. I gathered the sleeves for a nice little pouf and my preferred shorter length. Then I tied a black grograin ribbon quckly around the waist to alter the length proportion. I hope to improve on the belt situation, but you get the idea. I also added bra keeps to keep the wider neckline from exposing my straps and in place. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS88nyPan-BXAiFnnXygg1VB9TXmAO1HMTGrTORPUrgSaI3ap9w7tlNNRuwIhh0LJhANjdruTO8Y5UqOH5BWPx0OI6QuGL-n0j7kopAKWRS4-re-hmmomT-ym5VDc84IAX0iVb4mFLxiQVatY9mEX79pHWo66HPH2yz79CHKKCLWWVpDn-6qhWxB8dRw8/s5280/DSC_0165.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5280" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS88nyPan-BXAiFnnXygg1VB9TXmAO1HMTGrTORPUrgSaI3ap9w7tlNNRuwIhh0LJhANjdruTO8Y5UqOH5BWPx0OI6QuGL-n0j7kopAKWRS4-re-hmmomT-ym5VDc84IAX0iVb4mFLxiQVatY9mEX79pHWo66HPH2yz79CHKKCLWWVpDn-6qhWxB8dRw8/w640-h484/DSC_0165.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>(Pardon the poofies. I didn't fuss.) Here is how I did it. I love it now and will be wearing it a lot.</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBftpaevyp1G6KgTJtW7atnCW6S5Y9gZ3IB2_sJlaUGkkSPrTpLTEQtR40MZuaR-TaH1EDFYHT8HmhO2be13zx3uWoelU_DbC4O-MLeu9FijO6ikx2yIuBItWghFaNJ5vqNQ89-wNLRy1r4sCNErAf6KnDFfpSHJvvy3M3UT8vBDKffhVBXKGqy3sNg5w/s6000/DSC_0058.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBftpaevyp1G6KgTJtW7atnCW6S5Y9gZ3IB2_sJlaUGkkSPrTpLTEQtR40MZuaR-TaH1EDFYHT8HmhO2be13zx3uWoelU_DbC4O-MLeu9FijO6ikx2yIuBItWghFaNJ5vqNQ89-wNLRy1r4sCNErAf6KnDFfpSHJvvy3M3UT8vBDKffhVBXKGqy3sNg5w/w640-h426/DSC_0058.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>First, I carefully removed the heavy zip. Then I went to the ironing board and spray starched the zip area and pressed. This allowed me to neatly meet all the cut edges together. This is wrong side up. I fused a strip of near sheer fusible tricot interfacing to the zip area and a bit beyond. The orange lines indicate where the xip was cut out. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNxIk3btyAEDhOebaDfEU4zYIJ3HuClRQLhW-J7KUOCYu3teOJy-fSERgBy5Lo2EmIEFZn9oXdgcpuB1zHlOWzIx7VfMPWWpdrwew_kkKbfJiZKkCakPVOpF5o8JUebLGH0Eyv1oFLtlBmwyeJd2DydwpAaLrACouPVaoJp8L9DqCYK8UlZjxBl_Kx94/s6000/DSC_0062.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNxIk3btyAEDhOebaDfEU4zYIJ3HuClRQLhW-J7KUOCYu3teOJy-fSERgBy5Lo2EmIEFZn9oXdgcpuB1zHlOWzIx7VfMPWWpdrwew_kkKbfJiZKkCakPVOpF5o8JUebLGH0Eyv1oFLtlBmwyeJd2DydwpAaLrACouPVaoJp8L9DqCYK8UlZjxBl_Kx94/w640-h426/DSC_0062.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>On the front I laid down what would soon be the facing. It was a poly mesh, pink blush color I had on hand. This was then topped with tracing paper on which I drew out my stitching template for the slit. I proceeded to sew the slit with a 1.5 stitch length. Once done I ripped off the paper and cut the slit down the middle and into a triangle slits at the bottom corners, classic slit cutting. This was then turned to the inside and carefully pressed, presscloth, steam and low heat. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipWK0i82206hIHPtcpJnVKICbvlOLZkctrRZ9nJALHB2hypzlzkJNWXJeWeNnrHF9qOId5-lfdAb5SvGFTdg0rdjq0rlw7Jf2bK8Fg3-gkyTQBCIYEW2HGBc6q1pEifVfDVD7X7_HBZHDmpQPJIy5qB912QYZ4_0s24H8M5C2cyzNftEESMdX6q4vdZrc/s6000/DSC_0086.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipWK0i82206hIHPtcpJnVKICbvlOLZkctrRZ9nJALHB2hypzlzkJNWXJeWeNnrHF9qOId5-lfdAb5SvGFTdg0rdjq0rlw7Jf2bK8Fg3-gkyTQBCIYEW2HGBc6q1pEifVfDVD7X7_HBZHDmpQPJIy5qB912QYZ4_0s24H8M5C2cyzNftEESMdX6q4vdZrc/w640-h426/DSC_0086.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: left;"><b style="text-align: justify;">Above it is complete. The facing was carefully stitched down around the slit about a quarter of an inch back, with a simple running stitch and single thread. It does not show on the front The same poly mesh was used to make a new binding on the neckline as well. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: right;"><b style="text-align: justify;"> </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3HnaaSBQGuXgRHFxpUrZtiZelZFIWRhYbTo9XhqwD7jN_WiujAWaVA9DJ0rHxpYhAAtWOUTd-2EVfphJhzY3dA5UpTS0ljhnC7b-0aAbAqXACB6p5ijUR46jdXzBiKi-enq3gxO2mIJzLkh8RhsszBDMh-gobGYZPEvZlGI_axQ2EWByh2Pxn1XsEm2o/s2656/DSC_0095.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2218" data-original-width="2656" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3HnaaSBQGuXgRHFxpUrZtiZelZFIWRhYbTo9XhqwD7jN_WiujAWaVA9DJ0rHxpYhAAtWOUTd-2EVfphJhzY3dA5UpTS0ljhnC7b-0aAbAqXACB6p5ijUR46jdXzBiKi-enq3gxO2mIJzLkh8RhsszBDMh-gobGYZPEvZlGI_axQ2EWByh2Pxn1XsEm2o/w640-h534/DSC_0095.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The zipper you see above is in the dress form so just ignore it. The forms print is so similar to the top that it is hard to distinguish, So sorry. I did my button thread loop by placing 3 strands of embroidery floss on a piece of Stitch and Ditch. They were about 8 inches long. this was so I could later thread them and sew them to the top. I lined up the strands on the paper and did a tight small zigzag stitch on my machine over the strands. It makes a really nice thread for the button loop. You have to carefully measure first exactly how much length you need to make the button loop function and get around the button. I drew that out on the paper. You stitch this in the very middle of your strands. This leaves you with floss on each end to put in a needle and sew on to the blouse and secure the loop. Hope that is clear. I thought of this one day and it worked out</b><b> well. Give it a try. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-AvKWgfRdyJJ2sCif2RBO_okqm7HsgTdXepjFR_uN6iozYFrpftEUWmQiaaqvZev_yDTIdZP-HlgiD4nv4dwaaya5T8HgnfwJ1gInBVvnV2dJrMssjyXUc9pFXz5K06oGWzLyYzZjC6NC-VScmDj1b2yXHAFqfXM-jxXslqbghSEfY0pw9OKWMe7pp8/s6000/DSC_0167.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-AvKWgfRdyJJ2sCif2RBO_okqm7HsgTdXepjFR_uN6iozYFrpftEUWmQiaaqvZev_yDTIdZP-HlgiD4nv4dwaaya5T8HgnfwJ1gInBVvnV2dJrMssjyXUc9pFXz5K06oGWzLyYzZjC6NC-VScmDj1b2yXHAFqfXM-jxXslqbghSEfY0pw9OKWMe7pp8/w640-h426/DSC_0167.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>For my sleeves I simply zigzagged over 1/8th inch elastic. I also took the moment to try out the ban roll techique for the hem. It worked out well. The hem edges discolored, I assumed from hanging out in a storage unit for about a year. I soaked to no avail so I just cut off and rehemmed which was fine. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6n2hHF9wf3abh_BSDmlg8u7GMQYX7FaBlZxd0CFeJfUAoaxHJU-YxjiKXMVUxbHB1SzW6N_GKSqO56SllM6-0oJVFwyaQvqCr8B6L0DlpdwvfAIzazh_mU8uiICXaImA55p6puJ60TO2EQy9Q2FDF6wZlo6CQJ5ao3Ysxcs2zeaUm8rgFTp_e7uchto/s5280/DSC_0165.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5280" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6n2hHF9wf3abh_BSDmlg8u7GMQYX7FaBlZxd0CFeJfUAoaxHJU-YxjiKXMVUxbHB1SzW6N_GKSqO56SllM6-0oJVFwyaQvqCr8B6L0DlpdwvfAIzazh_mU8uiICXaImA55p6puJ60TO2EQy9Q2FDF6wZlo6CQJ5ao3Ysxcs2zeaUm8rgFTp_e7uchto/w640-h484/DSC_0165.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I love my pretty pink and black top. I think it will be great for Easter dinner. I have never been able to part with great fabric, whether in a garment I made, bought, or thrifted. I believe it can always find some sort of second life. Happy Sewing, all................Bunny</b></div></span></div><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-34411552280439224642024-03-10T19:57:00.001-04:002024-03-10T19:59:40.364-04:00The Velvet Bomber Jacket, V1877<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqJAn1I-1jS21L9TF1V6_oXf3u0SLrenBo2KT3R9isvsAzkoLlqykmrZzb0WVBwCw_Iy3HlCcCUCx0EesFqDWCBIvumZOg_BO7vZLa3h0bW6Cg4k_9FCRSz-wVFq190VRklioQJwbWhygVrIhrIapxIlsIabQ8MzxnqJASomjjlI8cGx2iYXatJtQSIGw/s6000/DSC_0148.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqJAn1I-1jS21L9TF1V6_oXf3u0SLrenBo2KT3R9isvsAzkoLlqykmrZzb0WVBwCw_Iy3HlCcCUCx0EesFqDWCBIvumZOg_BO7vZLa3h0bW6Cg4k_9FCRSz-wVFq190VRklioQJwbWhygVrIhrIapxIlsIabQ8MzxnqJASomjjlI8cGx2iYXatJtQSIGw/w640-h426/DSC_0148.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Zipped!</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTcWOUgWCXU3Jp6k4Hq4YS66OmwmV5UhXKo0H6JdZBqSX-g9yrhZc8cOe7HMfkqFi-c4N6QzWTuI3LmuPYARHCLeNSkM-JDEzw9NFu_bqEUbhgnmbd0d5rGCdMty6-we1mVQgV-8BQ60X1LYRP9qsMqU2kMI9mKTTmKpKBWyFNEqNpfXjzCzkit5qeLY/s6000/DSC_0138.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTcWOUgWCXU3Jp6k4Hq4YS66OmwmV5UhXKo0H6JdZBqSX-g9yrhZc8cOe7HMfkqFi-c4N6QzWTuI3LmuPYARHCLeNSkM-JDEzw9NFu_bqEUbhgnmbd0d5rGCdMty6-we1mVQgV-8BQ60X1LYRP9qsMqU2kMI9mKTTmKpKBWyFNEqNpfXjzCzkit5qeLY/w640-h426/DSC_0138.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Unzipped!</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I absolutely love my velvet bomber jacket. I have worn it almost constantly since I finished it, with jeans, joggers, turtlenecks, you name it. I've worn it "out", to the market, and everywhere else. It is so versatile and so warm. There were times I thought I would throw it across the room and never look back but I am so glad my persistence won out, once again. I just can't walk away from a project. There is ALWAYS a way thru!</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Bomber jackets seem to be all the rage right now but truthfully, they have always been in fashion. This design was usually seen on the testosterone filled side of the runway but like much in fashion, today it is universal in regards to gender. Yay, for that! It's comfort and versatility are certainly to be enjoyed by all. Being sewists, we can make our bombers out of any fabric we want, a great opportunity for expression! I had a specific vision in mind and took to Google images for more inspo. What I found were two versions, one being just what I wanted, a shorter, fuller, version with a more defined waist. Most versions, and this definitely applied to patterns, were cut stright down from the chest to the hips, had no shape definition other than being rather closely fit, like this. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-154ncqg253/images/stencil/480x660/products/8326/37307/M7637_02__04096__15019.1679925229.jpg?c=1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="660" src="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-154ncqg253/images/stencil/480x660/products/8326/37307/M7637_02__04096__15019.1679925229.jpg?c=1" width="480" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>What I had in mind was more of an "urban" look. These were fuller sleeves that were either dropped or raglan and ribbed hems that were closer to the waist, more like this:</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/best-bomber-jacketsat0-75x-1666974616.jpg?crop=0.502xw:1.00xh;0.00801xw,0&resize=640:*" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="640" height="637" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/best-bomber-jacketsat0-75x-1666974616.jpg?crop=0.502xw:1.00xh;0.00801xw,0&resize=640:*" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I apologize in advance if the images disappear from their vendor sites. I searched patterns all over and could not find what I wanted. I settled on <a href="https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v1877">Vogue 1877.</a> a unisex pattern, and did adjustments to achieve my look. Of course, half way through my jacket sewing, I happened on the perfect pattern, so I offer it here for you if you like this look: <a href="https://thefoldline.com/product/the-bomber-jacket-2/">TCP4 The Bomber Jacket from Trend Patterns. </a> I found it with a search on The Fold Line. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://thefoldline.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/TPC4-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="533" height="800" src="https://thefoldline.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/TPC4-5.jpg" width="533" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPMlwclvPh8A8s8j8vPS7glntib6l4AhEacmEchqBw9UDAjEFLr4zPLTO-WLAsv0lW9YiJ_dqkaZeunWVP105UNWzs575-OGH7Q6wiHzzM04gnyjIYJFVJcrvi9AlmneOJhJZEZbDbnO1KoWKHF3Rxm1jG9z5MCoo5mGg_pVe-aPRpDcHg8KPyG4qOXE/s4598/DSC_0143.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4598" height="557" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPMlwclvPh8A8s8j8vPS7glntib6l4AhEacmEchqBw9UDAjEFLr4zPLTO-WLAsv0lW9YiJ_dqkaZeunWVP105UNWzs575-OGH7Q6wiHzzM04gnyjIYJFVJcrvi9AlmneOJhJZEZbDbnO1KoWKHF3Rxm1jG9z5MCoo5mGg_pVe-aPRpDcHg8KPyG4qOXE/w640-h557/DSC_0143.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This was the interesting part! I've been doing a lot of reorganizing of my fabrics lately, mostly because of those labels I purchased that let me write down the yardage and other info on each piece of fabric I own. I have some really lovely pieces, some for a life I rarely live. I bought this beautiful cotton/rayon velvet online a few years ago with intentions of making a blazer type jacket for the holidays. My blazer days seem to be gone. If I made it, it would probably be a one and done. Lately, fashion changes have given me permission to use more formal fabrics for more casual clothing. As I measured out this piece for its label, it occurred to me that I could make a bomber jacket with it and could get a lot more wear out of it and it would be beautiful. I proceeded! </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The outer shell is a cotton/rayon velveteen. It has been machine washed and dried, no shrinkage and looks fine and lush. Washing velvets is something I have subscribed to for a long time. It makes them practical and changes their hand to a deep lushness. Don't believe me? Wash a good sized sample on warm and dry. You'll see. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmYfz9OJsnPZBBA-pMvs7iViNoJoWoPTUr-eaF9KGRzik_9g6sGWPiDuR1jZzBsy6c2yu-s8YFdtYG5IX7sEeWqrXwJOnErgRYHoSUUQpdEe_5PIduziPI2AwSQUihJOoSJT-yBfyzoqVoYmoC1vddwdeONwGI7mWiuU2HP3Pu_PIuI9yQP6xFNaDoIF4/s6000/DSC_0172.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmYfz9OJsnPZBBA-pMvs7iViNoJoWoPTUr-eaF9KGRzik_9g6sGWPiDuR1jZzBsy6c2yu-s8YFdtYG5IX7sEeWqrXwJOnErgRYHoSUUQpdEe_5PIduziPI2AwSQUihJOoSJT-yBfyzoqVoYmoC1vddwdeONwGI7mWiuU2HP3Pu_PIuI9yQP6xFNaDoIF4/w640-h426/DSC_0172.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I needed warmth and was not going to rely on just the velvet for that. This was a transition piece for 30 to 50 degree weather. It has worked out beautifully, very warm. It is lined with my favorite Kasha, a flannel backed Satin, perfectly luxe and warm. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The rib knit was my issue. I am not experienced with rib knit other than on a long tee shirt or two. I've only used what I picked up at Joann's. I went to Etsy for nicer, heavier offerings and ordered what was for jackets, "great for varsity jackets". Sounded good. It came in and damx, it was thick but I figure this was what I was supposed to use and proceeded. One of the first things to do on this jacket is install the zipper. Between the zipper, the rib knit collar layers, the Kasha layers and the velvet layers, this was incredibly bulky to sew. I pressed my velvet and clapped it down!!! A stiff brush brought the nap back up pretty easily, which I owe to the prewashing. It was just a very unpleasant experience all the way through, sewing all those heavy layers felt like stitching a rubber tire. I had to do a lot of the finishing by hand and that stunk as well. I was not excited to work on this so it happened in bits and pieces while I worked on alterations for customers in between to keep my sanity. Once done, I tried it on and was sooooo very happy. It was worth the aggravation. Then I wore it out on a 45 degree day and was overjoyed, wore it with jeans and a turtle to the supermarket. It felt so warm and nice. Persistence won the game once again.</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Construction:</b><b> </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>First there was the zipper. A facing of the velvet was attached to the Kasha lining. The coil zip was in between the outer velvet and the the velvet facing. At the very top it met the corner of the rib knit collar. I set the collar back about a half inch and was glad I did. It gave the end of the zip a little extra space for all the bulk involved there. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjGZFIsoQxib2Uo_6HUlYEawwrRas175IPOGgM7taT82yuxJCMVg6q48UrhE-CNQSBncNog1M4NDrvcgnd5RaiWmfSm1-2dHOBLOsBsw7z1PTybRGmcAuKy0CpigRANHC63Lrlk8BkF6XLHnEH1SLZql7BZs-PxPlfxv6MVTZ0ewCnZPbUDKQZwb35oE/s4354/DSC_0179.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4354" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjGZFIsoQxib2Uo_6HUlYEawwrRas175IPOGgM7taT82yuxJCMVg6q48UrhE-CNQSBncNog1M4NDrvcgnd5RaiWmfSm1-2dHOBLOsBsw7z1PTybRGmcAuKy0CpigRANHC63Lrlk8BkF6XLHnEH1SLZql7BZs-PxPlfxv6MVTZ0ewCnZPbUDKQZwb35oE/w640-h588/DSC_0179.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This pattern had two collars, one a big camp collar and the other a high stand up collar. I wanted a real rib knit bomber collar. No pattern! I pinch hit and it came out OK. I just folded the rib knit and cut out a crescent. Fingers were crossed and whew,,, it worked. Every seam was bulky. The next thing that was a bother were the shoulder seams, a definite pattern issue. I have seen this on more patterns, both indie and the big guys. The pattern gives you a clear dropped shoulder. Then it has you attach a sleeve with easing. There is no bump, lump or bone for the fabric to go over where these seams meet and therefore no need for ease. Well, you've got it and you are left with unsightly easing puffs in the middle of your bicep. I steamed the bejeepers out of this seam to rid the sleeve of this easing puffiness which would have been fine if the sleeve had to go over a shoulder bone. Someone behind a computer, at some point, stuck a regular sleeve on a dropped shoulder, never having the knowledge that no enlargement would be needed as the sleeve draped straight down the bicep. Trust me. Take a look at dropped shoulder patterns. You will see this mess everywhere. Check any dropped shoulder patterns you do so you can eliminate the extra before sewing this area. Luckily, my velvet took the abuse well, as you can see above. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjE1e7OpEAXrVX795XaV5VDgMO0KJoxUaq_sm1pFyVsMV4TIf2lTVYlF8Z2jdtxjsXaI4_pXqjXq3AUgb_fPg0PSYr5LwJo80JqxrlK-GHnWPoEjczwNRArWWAqDYfioHhNL9aAEHYWsbT_Lt8RzVgHszOp4aH0BSVarHohdfOr76mtuO8Oaije4DRu88/s6000/DSC_0170.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjE1e7OpEAXrVX795XaV5VDgMO0KJoxUaq_sm1pFyVsMV4TIf2lTVYlF8Z2jdtxjsXaI4_pXqjXq3AUgb_fPg0PSYr5LwJo80JqxrlK-GHnWPoEjczwNRArWWAqDYfioHhNL9aAEHYWsbT_Lt8RzVgHszOp4aH0BSVarHohdfOr76mtuO8Oaije4DRu88/w426-h640/DSC_0170.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b>The jacket had welt pockets. While I like welt pockets, these are uncomfortable to use. They are set too high and in just a weird spot. Having looked at other such pockets in my research, they were also set in the same weird spot. They don't look bad. They just feel bad. You can't lower them because the pocket bags have no place to go. Nature of the beast, I guess. They are pretty, though. It had been a while since I had done welt pockets so I watched a lot of vids and did many samples before committing. If you do a mockup for your bomber jacket, make a pocket, just one, and make sure you like it. If you don't, just do a faux pocket, a lot less work. Also, just look closely at the pockets in the pics above and you will see what I mean. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13EptRqCuWfGLfHWvqugxYipl8KKNUjU8XdGOF8haZvnDOtb6iJEwQz1ndhfCclEmNFxP6NJySwVl4m6v5BXrnnKgOlr4e86kl_l6thooTMZceabSXuB8j2RNBPq5Voy38WO6s0e8h5OHKs5ut6F1L_SznP2gmmJ3wHKaIf_wq-RFH1IRIIEinNh-C0A/s6000/DSC_0171.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13EptRqCuWfGLfHWvqugxYipl8KKNUjU8XdGOF8haZvnDOtb6iJEwQz1ndhfCclEmNFxP6NJySwVl4m6v5BXrnnKgOlr4e86kl_l6thooTMZceabSXuB8j2RNBPq5Voy38WO6s0e8h5OHKs5ut6F1L_SznP2gmmJ3wHKaIf_wq-RFH1IRIIEinNh-C0A/w640-h426/DSC_0171.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fit:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Lately, in my body changing journey, my shoulders have started to slope down. This jacket really emphasized that. I added 1/2 inch raglan shoulder pads and it GREATLY inproved the fit. These are tools that are out there for you to use, not just laughable objects from another era. This pattern specified a lot of topstitching. I did the yoke first and did not care for the look. I did not do any more. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mY3qIO5qVDTidqWLNFuUiWncMfEbas3lm2BaSu8uFgdnX1VpKTU_TgNuTQuu1OsXzb8kGwIT0kcz5zmVRzP3-TCAITcJzgFRnuSiK1CNttsYPPG1eKyAnmxy8jzeHkKwYy1jB2zHieSOlJCLKiZVd7GX9TtRubsnFUMU0YKrjycfN8VSBAbWLpGg-VQ/s6000/DSC_0152.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mY3qIO5qVDTidqWLNFuUiWncMfEbas3lm2BaSu8uFgdnX1VpKTU_TgNuTQuu1OsXzb8kGwIT0kcz5zmVRzP3-TCAITcJzgFRnuSiK1CNttsYPPG1eKyAnmxy8jzeHkKwYy1jB2zHieSOlJCLKiZVd7GX9TtRubsnFUMU0YKrjycfN8VSBAbWLpGg-VQ/w640-h426/DSC_0152.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I reduced the length of the jacket by 2.5 inches. I tightened up the rib knit hem band by to be closer to my natural waist rather than hip size. To make the jacket bottom fit the smaller band, I did tucks in the back and front. It was all too heavy for gathering. It worked out fine but added even more bulk for sewing in those areas. I shortened them an inch but kept the fullness in the sleeves as I saw that fullness a lot in the versions I liked. See the brown jacket above. There is a lot of ease in this pattern as I have often found in unisex patterns. I kept it and did no FBA or petiting.</b></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTpXffxFpz7-GwRbxoE9H_2IadtZJwYw9J73ZmVZY02L8B9UxcNXTus6WPxXadoG_KCBX1GP3HlsWDXRE3sT6-VyqCKjfV7qJfsOyHODRwx9Kr_6U8HQIJQMXU-_s9CVBenlMckh9iJmSJcQawEafs4y1DWjC6YPDp9dz9_1kqSiMn3_wLIE56CH2QCM/s4598/DSC_0146.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3949" data-original-width="4598" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTpXffxFpz7-GwRbxoE9H_2IadtZJwYw9J73ZmVZY02L8B9UxcNXTus6WPxXadoG_KCBX1GP3HlsWDXRE3sT6-VyqCKjfV7qJfsOyHODRwx9Kr_6U8HQIJQMXU-_s9CVBenlMckh9iJmSJcQawEafs4y1DWjC6YPDp9dz9_1kqSiMn3_wLIE56CH2QCM/w640-h550/DSC_0146.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I love this jacket and foresee getting a lot of wear from it. All parts have withstood my prewashing so I can see it giving me years of joy and warmth. It is so comfortable and warm and just perfect for when our temperatures are not brutally winter but still chilly. It can also be casual or dressy. I love it and highly recommend the pattern as well as being a little daring and making it up in a bold fabric, perhaps a brocade or velveteen or how about a beautiful organza? I hope this inspires you. Happy Sewing........Bunny</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-3356380405973526802024-02-16T21:27:00.005-05:002024-02-17T08:12:57.848-05:00Three tops and more to come!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DyE8KwRIwpGU3mcvuYDQ8a34d1PbLcQpHmVXwpa_Z6AUShtBuQmV9y_tnAlfHF_WLUbBSZGPEbJcPj6bsOfYrlKC-sLfFHe_F8vUNIjD7aJRcL_E5SBr6hPTJVuECihw6-XB3NFl6xcjauGcgnB5jtpXllKUbPA8jyEQMnd1Ezhjm2o5_L89PvyD5yU/s5556/DSC_0900.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5556" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DyE8KwRIwpGU3mcvuYDQ8a34d1PbLcQpHmVXwpa_Z6AUShtBuQmV9y_tnAlfHF_WLUbBSZGPEbJcPj6bsOfYrlKC-sLfFHe_F8vUNIjD7aJRcL_E5SBr6hPTJVuECihw6-XB3NFl6xcjauGcgnB5jtpXllKUbPA8jyEQMnd1Ezhjm2o5_L89PvyD5yU/w460-h640/DSC_0900.JPG" width="460" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have three tops to share with you, made between Thanksgiving and New Year's , I think. With the old year behind us, much is blur. These are part of last year and I am now working on this year's projects in earnest. You have seen me make these patterns before. They are tried and trues. I like to think the fabrications are unique and make them worthy of a second look here. I've tried different techniques each time. The first that you will see are two new Eureka tops. I believe they are number 6 and 7. A search will bring up the others. The Eureka top is a very basic cut on sleeve tee shirt from the Sewing Workshop. It is the simplest of designs, therefore lending itself to all sorts of interpretations and play. It is large, boxy and so forgiving of fit. I highly recommend it. I did a bit of research and found that <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1283233178/mccalls-7721-misses-knit-tops-bell?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=mccalls+7721&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&sts=1&organic_search_click=1">McCall's 7721, view B, </a> is nearly exact to my ruffled sleeve version presented here. I think it may just be a bit less boxy. </b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmx_tk09ke2r2Alb_F_yhK-VYLlVGcRjoqcyec5Dqo1_P7hRgpUumEiv9S4rWfB-XTShIXXuHgFoZlzz4nxq0sEVETC9lerabeVbbX-09uuG55zKoiGJhk1vMm9y3VayNuz-P3cfgxwx7NJyT8qt4mIXrnwS-Uga94Fthc4XCVj20zO60GC6P2KxSG05g/s4466/DSC_0907.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4466" data-original-width="3251" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmx_tk09ke2r2Alb_F_yhK-VYLlVGcRjoqcyec5Dqo1_P7hRgpUumEiv9S4rWfB-XTShIXXuHgFoZlzz4nxq0sEVETC9lerabeVbbX-09uuG55zKoiGJhk1vMm9y3VayNuz-P3cfgxwx7NJyT8qt4mIXrnwS-Uga94Fthc4XCVj20zO60GC6P2KxSG05g/w466-h640/DSC_0907.JPG" width="466" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I could wear it now with a turtleneck underneath but will save this for warmer weather. The fabric is Lady McElroy and it is called "EPIC Spectacles". Make sure if you order it you ask for Epic as you may get the tiny faces as I did on the first purchase! Stone Mountain and Daughter carry it and were the ones to eventually provide me with the Epic version and were great to do business with. For the ruffles I simply cut a six inch wide strip the length of the sleeve opening and made that double the length of that opening. Next I sewed the short ends together. It was then folded in half, pressed and then gathered and applied to the opening, very simple basic ruffle technique. Seams on here were French seams except for the ruffle attachment which were machine stitched then serged. </b></div></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPujL2UgmcrULJCN0u7NRACZJ5Il9PAEnCpU_Wa_0suEEVlSCSfyQufR9uXlgiTHvAVN-N4ixNUPzctzJ-LWDh2W9ha-1jkXp-SNMdYmsAI9xR59Qb9GHJJiAROZEeM2_xSBhwQIkN6jCKVLheYcapomV1N1TxIy-OstESPs8Lo2yTD_7-9y3y5c36dw/s5325/DSC_0999.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3987" data-original-width="5325" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPujL2UgmcrULJCN0u7NRACZJ5Il9PAEnCpU_Wa_0suEEVlSCSfyQufR9uXlgiTHvAVN-N4ixNUPzctzJ-LWDh2W9ha-1jkXp-SNMdYmsAI9xR59Qb9GHJJiAROZEeM2_xSBhwQIkN6jCKVLheYcapomV1N1TxIy-OstESPs8Lo2yTD_7-9y3y5c36dw/w640-h480/DSC_0999.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span><b style="font-size: large;">The Eureka pattern has no closure. I wanted one and I also made the neckline opening a bit wider. </b><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtQfOWxFwsU75ycPjydKFOchBb1_dxDTZgXxtzAZsl2jSG4p3LAvEF5GciIkK3U-xKonEYPpkGbLFCKeXRrhTOdgknKbBcthsK3_jJmgNUFkxcIaUAipWcnABZQLgXoVCxOb40-U7RjJ1ejpg74d6OcKXxR0Obsne29MdclUNNBqql31UMzrnOR-rXsk/s5556/DSC_0900.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5556" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtQfOWxFwsU75ycPjydKFOchBb1_dxDTZgXxtzAZsl2jSG4p3LAvEF5GciIkK3U-xKonEYPpkGbLFCKeXRrhTOdgknKbBcthsK3_jJmgNUFkxcIaUAipWcnABZQLgXoVCxOb40-U7RjJ1ejpg74d6OcKXxR0Obsne29MdclUNNBqql31UMzrnOR-rXsk/w460-h640/DSC_0900.JPG" width="460" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><b style="font-size: large;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I made a simple facing for the slit area and backed it with woven interfacing. Because I did not want any bulk to show through, I zigzagged and pinked the edges of the facing. No bulk! I did a simple thread loop by hand for the tiny vintage button and applied a bias binding as I always do. I think this shirt is great fun and can't wait to wear it in the warmer weather. </b></div></b><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GaSkmR3_WpMdFeMDyQzckCeM6WNxUShMg6igaKb63m85NetciKMxUKq4R4THunDHjkc7zyJQn6p2zrHQdK5YtG-o0ZDvwckLvDZrzSQoxZHV5r-6r8yExk3UifescjI1uQGkv0yBFUWRNPzrdz95nBD_HLzUCOcmIu8gXiS9411AjCB7O5aivlWMPhE/s4939/DSC_0972.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3994" data-original-width="4939" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GaSkmR3_WpMdFeMDyQzckCeM6WNxUShMg6igaKb63m85NetciKMxUKq4R4THunDHjkc7zyJQn6p2zrHQdK5YtG-o0ZDvwckLvDZrzSQoxZHV5r-6r8yExk3UifescjI1uQGkv0yBFUWRNPzrdz95nBD_HLzUCOcmIu8gXiS9411AjCB7O5aivlWMPhE/w640-h518/DSC_0972.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;">With the second Eureka, the party is all in the back. </b><div><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFcTDXtWrcgbr1fMCqoCqrT_vvGlSYrV2N_8_Ml9BznOmVmKerj25Wv2P7ApdmuxjPLaaVPJDq3nbXm7cTKC_DI2jea9hy9sosNIaMyiUqnhJU2M7sRMaYxMUDArI9BGi78KMKIY1JlTbiyK2jxEALjW1yz2Kwl1tJPWi8rGZo0CKZNu_xiqD4C786ewE/s6000/DSC_0932.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFcTDXtWrcgbr1fMCqoCqrT_vvGlSYrV2N_8_Ml9BznOmVmKerj25Wv2P7ApdmuxjPLaaVPJDq3nbXm7cTKC_DI2jea9hy9sosNIaMyiUqnhJU2M7sRMaYxMUDArI9BGi78KMKIY1JlTbiyK2jxEALjW1yz2Kwl1tJPWi8rGZo0CKZNu_xiqD4C786ewE/w426-h640/DSC_0932.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p><b style="font-size: large;">Pardon the photo. For some reason the fabric is really shiny. IRL, it is not. </b></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">On this Eureka I did the sleeves as directed in the pattern, with a simple fold-up cuff. I always cut the extra small size. This is a big garment and I like it. </b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjjstyi0C3igXCIppty3AU4foioiq67WXZdo2phptmvmFK7WToR8farNc7Kl1yTslW1ShBi3YqgdIA-6s5QPBJsskyvi3CYnEtEJvWzjTCoQUZPj2_XuXX6WFRpMDej8gCPAk-fp9WSNTCOtdKjIdMQQnk8sxLZDQ-BwB4aRmpEiDVj1-eu-oEbzAjmo/s1900/DSC_0943.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1900" data-original-width="1802" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjjstyi0C3igXCIppty3AU4foioiq67WXZdo2phptmvmFK7WToR8farNc7Kl1yTslW1ShBi3YqgdIA-6s5QPBJsskyvi3CYnEtEJvWzjTCoQUZPj2_XuXX6WFRpMDej8gCPAk-fp9WSNTCOtdKjIdMQQnk8sxLZDQ-BwB4aRmpEiDVj1-eu-oEbzAjmo/w606-h640/DSC_0943.JPG" width="606" /></a></p><p><b style="font-size: large;"> </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">The back got a square cut out and I tied it across at the top </b><b style="font-size: large;">to prevent gaping. I also didn't want it hanging open for viewing to the public as I moved around. The facing was understitched but also held down with French knots all around. I also ran a strip of boning in a channel across the bottom edge of the square cutout. It fits in very snugly and you don't even know it's there. Its snug fit keeps it in place and I can easily take it out for laundering. The cutout square stays nicely placed on my back with the weight of the bone and no facing rolls out. I gave it a trial wear to make sure. What type of boning did I use? A white electrical tie, cut on the ends in a curved shape so not to irritate. </b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvqlRQKySSa4QbsZY1tv8E5JiIacFedTxexftg32ymLJZb5iGSrf0wFO8dDveF1UsOZGC8fF-J3QvO9BBZGrLbwRw2JHEXMC-oVftZQiWORKzkDi451zINTlCSvbEM03O9Lo-odOYfB4wzem7D7NsYMQzLAR44i9GAaum8oU0I2amYy1DIj0dUgwMPxk/s6000/DSC_0947.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvqlRQKySSa4QbsZY1tv8E5JiIacFedTxexftg32ymLJZb5iGSrf0wFO8dDveF1UsOZGC8fF-J3QvO9BBZGrLbwRw2JHEXMC-oVftZQiWORKzkDi451zINTlCSvbEM03O9Lo-odOYfB4wzem7D7NsYMQzLAR44i9GAaum8oU0I2amYy1DIj0dUgwMPxk/w426-h640/DSC_0947.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">The fabric was the fun part here. It came from a floor length tee shirt dress that also had white ribknit neckline and cuffs, Think golf shirt. I got it at Good Will and was size XXL. On my first trip there in a long time, I saw it and fell in love with its hand painted water color style. I left it on the rack. I went back a couple weeks later and it was still there so I grabbed it. It was a very cold day and this type of garment would not be moving easily out of the door into the winter's cold right now. I brought it home. The fabric is all poly, I know, yuk, but I felt the lovely print would make up for any issues I might encounter with heat. The design of the top and its loose demeanor make me think it won't be too hot. I really like it. </b></div><p></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">On to top #3!</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9M-fdgcYGihXHeDGlM1oMwRl0X9vg39IO6NnA7vvBgVlXtJdIkZPKqeH5pzL3LK1ONPRmZe0E-SuetN20llMujGCxK9S-lx2peYXcditi1qBZ2MpmsPAyiwd7EA8QK6GF74emFcySpvGjBSGW6whVwmr8-qqZ9kHLZ9adri9IdkPLFKNKjeRNmdmU1g/s6000/DSC_0954.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9M-fdgcYGihXHeDGlM1oMwRl0X9vg39IO6NnA7vvBgVlXtJdIkZPKqeH5pzL3LK1ONPRmZe0E-SuetN20llMujGCxK9S-lx2peYXcditi1qBZ2MpmsPAyiwd7EA8QK6GF74emFcySpvGjBSGW6whVwmr8-qqZ9kHLZ9adri9IdkPLFKNKjeRNmdmU1g/w640-h426/DSC_0954.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">Oh, how I love the Imby top by Karmme Apparel! I didn't use a shower curtain to make this one! I did use a lovely fabric. It is a rayon slub, near sheer, leftover from a prior project. You can see more on the original project <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2020/08/rayon-slubs-and-stretch-mesh.html">here. </a></b></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbc_qhwabAkx1iWi2BZAr1Lmjzz08nK2P0LkfvrDra0EBENKp2PO-uuPa4OIw1sT7P753JfhD7HeDJ0zOtRxR1Z6OBD9x5aPQ1o62YKYaMfMorDAhBIG4FDDGtg8siPr1FZWUTS8UErtmuXakmK9SlBs61JFLJM5zE4jOGnhjHpFuTZrPi28xbS5bsdhw/s4187/DSC_0797.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3055" data-original-width="4187" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbc_qhwabAkx1iWi2BZAr1Lmjzz08nK2P0LkfvrDra0EBENKp2PO-uuPa4OIw1sT7P753JfhD7HeDJ0zOtRxR1Z6OBD9x5aPQ1o62YKYaMfMorDAhBIG4FDDGtg8siPr1FZWUTS8UErtmuXakmK9SlBs61JFLJM5zE4jOGnhjHpFuTZrPi28xbS5bsdhw/w640-h466/DSC_0797.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The bodice lining/collar were made of a really nice rib knit. </span></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6IiyEk0W9DuaoXDEwvFl1HcAZ0Z33ac0OHMMczNdy04vh8dkQJuATi3ugziUAVRu-W-yz-MttZ3CyYQyGgUTbQinBuGb4x3rUuNPKACeHrTFHY1WLCw0vIcKKkT4D5O73vGiffrcr-aJhrOvX52-9QEpm2P8h6Q9LaohGuqtp8lKRw8UV8N8nphyphenhyphenmus/s6000/DSC_0961.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6IiyEk0W9DuaoXDEwvFl1HcAZ0Z33ac0OHMMczNdy04vh8dkQJuATi3ugziUAVRu-W-yz-MttZ3CyYQyGgUTbQinBuGb4x3rUuNPKACeHrTFHY1WLCw0vIcKKkT4D5O73vGiffrcr-aJhrOvX52-9QEpm2P8h6Q9LaohGuqtp8lKRw8UV8N8nphyphenhyphenmus/w640-h426/DSC_0961.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /> <span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The bodice was topstitched pretty much everywhere and the lining was understitched with a triple zigzag up to the shoulder seams. I hand stitched the collar down with a hemstitch underneath. It just kept wanting to turn back. If I did it again I would interface the turnback area. There is no interfacing in here now. The Imby top is a lot of fabric and should be heavy but it looks best with a light fabric making up the skirt and bodice so is very comfortable to wear. I think it will be delightful this summer and great with white jeans. I need to get some of those! (that fit)</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvFPX9DG7Ans0C0cVyzWhKhqlbO1-dCVKUXWqYeA_o60egwVXa8GqzQEqm6RCebWyebg3JAUNi2O5ktZU00lcinnr2Heq1JPbNYXVE6hU2j2tDf-T297eXJNdE7aJVOpQ-ltoQVseGngZE_JUki9bzhI3acyG1F4quJEQmpLcS5CDiNzMz3H4Xk8wYcEE/s4637/DSC_0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2584" data-original-width="4637" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvFPX9DG7Ans0C0cVyzWhKhqlbO1-dCVKUXWqYeA_o60egwVXa8GqzQEqm6RCebWyebg3JAUNi2O5ktZU00lcinnr2Heq1JPbNYXVE6hU2j2tDf-T297eXJNdE7aJVOpQ-ltoQVseGngZE_JUki9bzhI3acyG1F4quJEQmpLcS5CDiNzMz3H4Xk8wYcEE/w640-h356/DSC_0981.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The Velvet Bomber Jacket is c'est finis! I am just hemming the lining area by hand. This was not difficult, just extremely bulky to work with. The ribbing was like working with a rubber tire. Add in the heavy lining and fashion fabric and it tried my patience at times but I got it done. It could be better and I think it was one of those patterns you had to work thru the first time and then get it right the second. I'll review as soon as done, hopefully in the next few days. Then it will be on to sewing for summer and my vacation at the end of June. Happy Sewing..............Bunny</b></span></p></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-85760659024374375362024-02-05T19:58:00.003-05:002024-02-16T21:32:23.829-05:00Ahhh, the Fabrics! and Life!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIGhF_0pkimIHvWXtM5T5qEG5xru7p9YJL8I62ayW6r8D9oKpIxmuwNZTEgIFsPZUpd__MeSg3Vv8YW76KnCJnoYBM97qZVNI3WPYlN0_hPlyVJw9vfSCMKaMajoJpKnTBP1rhdD0RZgsBpxwD6-z_8xr-3b4Uw_0Ct8nYptz59Y3qSSLgBdKZGX0N7U/s5158/DSC_0078.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3826" data-original-width="5158" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmIGhF_0pkimIHvWXtM5T5qEG5xru7p9YJL8I62ayW6r8D9oKpIxmuwNZTEgIFsPZUpd__MeSg3Vv8YW76KnCJnoYBM97qZVNI3WPYlN0_hPlyVJw9vfSCMKaMajoJpKnTBP1rhdD0RZgsBpxwD6-z_8xr-3b4Uw_0Ct8nYptz59Y3qSSLgBdKZGX0N7U/w640-h474/DSC_0078.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Isn't this fabric a lovely breath of fresh air? I think I've gotten to the point of wanting to work with just spring fabrics. You see, my husband and I have just returned from the land of Covid, not our first visit but definitely our worst. We are both fine now but this one was a doozy, phantom smells continue, loss of taste for a while, EXTREME exhaustion, sleeping around the clock for days, We made it through. I didn't do much but I did manage to sew thru despite my covid fog brain. I did it in bits </b></span><b style="font-size: large;">and pieces and had to walk away from my velvet bomber jacket for fear of messing it up. I stuck to mending, upscycling and reorganizing my goodies, then back to bed. Oh, I did shop!!! And I am excited and will share those plans with you. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have enough fabrics now to keep me busy way into summer and it's just a matter of picking what will be next. That changes daily. Above is a large tablecloth, 2 yards, that I stumbled upon as I looked at the new Spring home goods out in the market place. I couldn't pass it up. It may become a top or it may remain a tablecloth. I like the texture and drape of the fabric, a poly cotton blend. That is on the bottom of the list for now but it does scream SPRING! </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFVFhkO2Tg_IKW5TXMo7g4Ts5KYiXPst9yrh1QenplflZKyZwNclN6I6n5VpVqUDeY_P3aM2C8zr8m0FxXcpflZJ2wmI9Qns6vH2MnZrRDI2IMEJUblNTDS-Fhw_-QxaM7DDjSHA2nwFIFBGclXNtTte1DWRw5gXJecYffaAADFk7Cox4_dV6f8fElPHU/s6000/DSC_0082.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3460" data-original-width="6000" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFVFhkO2Tg_IKW5TXMo7g4Ts5KYiXPst9yrh1QenplflZKyZwNclN6I6n5VpVqUDeY_P3aM2C8zr8m0FxXcpflZJ2wmI9Qns6vH2MnZrRDI2IMEJUblNTDS-Fhw_-QxaM7DDjSHA2nwFIFBGclXNtTte1DWRw5gXJecYffaAADFk7Cox4_dV6f8fElPHU/w640-h370/DSC_0082.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>This marvelous textile is one I purchased at Canterbury Shaker Village up here in New Hampshire. It actually was a sunprint that made up a tote bag. I thought surely it was destined for a use more refined. The bag was supermarket grade. The picture was closely woven and the subject divine. It is 24 inches wide, all cotton and removed from it's bag and the lovely Shaker girls smile at me while I work in my sewing digs. I haven't come up with a final idea for this but it makes me happy. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I will be all over the place with this post so be prepared. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I made undies while sick, not much brain power required there. I made pink ones. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYmTVLWyBNuhcvjpSXA8Z7xxVP3HKYyf7S1m-qUYNCFqGszC5NsyB16uBDBddvOvjCDh6-H-YIwgJffVxiqNnODg5XoBY19wE2irRsVGiVTiKCbgxNTfixjRNzSLmfy8vHXrYUrkH8KCb-DIAhigBr6yvzc0YfYINQfrY8OuPuY4z_CdSouLjTfROoXp4/s5247/DSC_0051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5247" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYmTVLWyBNuhcvjpSXA8Z7xxVP3HKYyf7S1m-qUYNCFqGszC5NsyB16uBDBddvOvjCDh6-H-YIwgJffVxiqNnODg5XoBY19wE2irRsVGiVTiKCbgxNTfixjRNzSLmfy8vHXrYUrkH8KCb-DIAhigBr6yvzc0YfYINQfrY8OuPuY4z_CdSouLjTfROoXp4/w640-h488/DSC_0051.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I made red ones. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4XzDlabboqb3kr33stZeKWQMCABkoG_qAAAaspLcoJ-kh4rY9TMwHzn5hKuOhUsukl0iJ34P-WmlY0k0r3EJNZW9GTpHircAsEiDSw-fnDdSt5r338SPI4H3al_3yherkvLzgOjTnPI3qDcHqNu9fNclWcxU2jivGK32bJD5DKoXLI1e-xuYZ0RVBaFw/s6000/DSC_0042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4XzDlabboqb3kr33stZeKWQMCABkoG_qAAAaspLcoJ-kh4rY9TMwHzn5hKuOhUsukl0iJ34P-WmlY0k0r3EJNZW9GTpHircAsEiDSw-fnDdSt5r338SPI4H3al_3yherkvLzgOjTnPI3qDcHqNu9fNclWcxU2jivGK32bJD5DKoXLI1e-xuYZ0RVBaFw/w640-h426/DSC_0042.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I made blue ones. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn75HuurAYSIWSMvUwU4K7WKpCpc4Y7vL5x9VkeWUBSeDMhTzyLg5xrf7Xeyy75oXkh5G8VLm-g6gdobfm1DNi9V5R8uOEFyj6hbD4D-HDxKZB8-hNnVr-W91RRaidwmYJc_eLOkST84QpM3u0PP7AZZZA3hdzd9HdVdl9aFF_nuSD78jxuzwGxxwCpS4/s3955/DSC_0046.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2566" data-original-width="3955" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn75HuurAYSIWSMvUwU4K7WKpCpc4Y7vL5x9VkeWUBSeDMhTzyLg5xrf7Xeyy75oXkh5G8VLm-g6gdobfm1DNi9V5R8uOEFyj6hbD4D-HDxKZB8-hNnVr-W91RRaidwmYJc_eLOkST84QpM3u0PP7AZZZA3hdzd9HdVdl9aFF_nuSD78jxuzwGxxwCpS4/w640-h416/DSC_0046.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I made over a dozen pair, bit by bit, You can see my methods. I actually prefer my leg and waistbands out of more fabric. I had the laces and stretch picot already cut so went with it. My favorite are the pinks, so so comfortable, like clouds. I also sew on my trims, turn to the inside and then topstitch with a triple zigzag as you can see in the pics. The red and the blue are ITY, nice undies but so very slippery to sew. The pinks are poly knit. All have 100% cotton crotches and I find them all comfortable. I picked at these as I had energy to do so while sick. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzDUKoEK-2TUCZMafqrDucmBvMalYzAu1-6sXw-VGDfUxr5HacjdREUhIgHHig7EwtNov8sw_wgbpNd9r3A6U-oaDp5XKS00Szt8-s0r-xhgmKLuLESbtqsuwZLgnTVWk-SunkFJV9CSUo_eZfcveYok-Mr37_I21VHZsgd9Vf3LsoH6vrsYwXGO4_gxs/s6000/DSC_0840.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzDUKoEK-2TUCZMafqrDucmBvMalYzAu1-6sXw-VGDfUxr5HacjdREUhIgHHig7EwtNov8sw_wgbpNd9r3A6U-oaDp5XKS00Szt8-s0r-xhgmKLuLESbtqsuwZLgnTVWk-SunkFJV9CSUo_eZfcveYok-Mr37_I21VHZsgd9Vf3LsoH6vrsYwXGO4_gxs/w640-h426/DSC_0840.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Guess what else happened while sick? I fell in love! It was with a beautiful British woman named Lady McElroy. And,,,,,she designs fabrics! I was totally smitten. I was watching lots of tv/youtube during this time and saw two different tubers show the above fabric. I was like an addict searching for my fix once I saw this. The faces were large and just so intriguing with their glasses and lack of expression. I had to have this fabric. The colors were fabulous. I didn't know who made it or what it was called. I managed to find it with an image search and it was called Spectacle. I proceeded. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt54FTmw1bFDUp5hIKjFHBUW3Cy0VoKpLK7KOTLyO7PS3PBcvXG-7bXhWYGEf7dVlTRsheZ9UlhKqnRFvzBqi5_5H_QtNEuyzwkKUOEgqBgojkWuX9uLI2yjL-IKzY1LZ9OWoqhuk_sHjNFDFK1g_Hr_0Ke8SDKvQwH3uBl4hHGbVFt9zEsZG2LnUNA2U/s6000/DSC_0838.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3685" data-original-width="6000" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt54FTmw1bFDUp5hIKjFHBUW3Cy0VoKpLK7KOTLyO7PS3PBcvXG-7bXhWYGEf7dVlTRsheZ9UlhKqnRFvzBqi5_5H_QtNEuyzwkKUOEgqBgojkWuX9uLI2yjL-IKzY1LZ9OWoqhuk_sHjNFDFK1g_Hr_0Ke8SDKvQwH3uBl4hHGbVFt9zEsZG2LnUNA2U/w640-h394/DSC_0838.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I found my spectled ladies from an Etsy seller in Canada and quickly placed my order. Did I say I bought from a thumbnail? Issues ensued, which she handled wonderfully as there was fault on both sides but all was OK, sort of, in the end. You see, This fabric has "Spectacle " in it's name but there is "Mini" spectacle and there is "Epic" spectacle. I wanted "Epic" (didn't know that) and had ordered the "mini". BUT, for whatever reason, she shipped me two pieces of Mini Spectacle, the other being the darker rendition, all mine to keep. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnvuqTFn-0LXv1jldUaxxoAypLi53q4lVge7AzQY05lHjJ_NXHmLX4YkBu-uV3PWTqpYyJ3FW04Tti3dZO3zwVDhaY5njYG69Gc-JZ-Yc8AoYDRmxSKrGuSjwBvkeueH5yPFo4ScWrmWhSJAhJuhQ96RbnTTOB_R5pSmbDHSUbvOPV4dp2tN-pYEQ2wg/s6000/DSC_0842.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnvuqTFn-0LXv1jldUaxxoAypLi53q4lVge7AzQY05lHjJ_NXHmLX4YkBu-uV3PWTqpYyJ3FW04Tti3dZO3zwVDhaY5njYG69Gc-JZ-Yc8AoYDRmxSKrGuSjwBvkeueH5yPFo4ScWrmWhSJAhJuhQ96RbnTTOB_R5pSmbDHSUbvOPV4dp2tN-pYEQ2wg/w426-h640/DSC_0842.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b>I kept my "Mini Spectacles" , thanked her for the freebie and kept up my search for the "Epic" version. I found it at Stone Mountain and Daughter! Yay! I immediately bought my yardage. They double checked that I was getting the larger, Epic faces and confirmed it in writing. They were wonderful to deal with and I made my shirt. More to come on that! All I can say is there are lots of ladies with glasses staring at me right now while I sew!</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvMzT9ayLnKDS_7vp1WBdSqx7h5Q2LOlHuTEJZIk6t94OuEE88abzKCziLfHqUr6Q4c50ifDmMZE7OGqJpo44OHh-U_fiA8T63DpQ-9ZtwZEqvfGM0BF4e2BU_CpSp-bTe8tHWXpOjc1TFvkmXyN9p8PCIRFpdfcji7P7mxOxPa_6DlwHDH_jzVAxoqfc/s6000/DSC_0845.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvMzT9ayLnKDS_7vp1WBdSqx7h5Q2LOlHuTEJZIk6t94OuEE88abzKCziLfHqUr6Q4c50ifDmMZE7OGqJpo44OHh-U_fiA8T63DpQ-9ZtwZEqvfGM0BF4e2BU_CpSp-bTe8tHWXpOjc1TFvkmXyN9p8PCIRFpdfcji7P7mxOxPa_6DlwHDH_jzVAxoqfc/w640-h426/DSC_0845.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Another fabulous Lady McElroy piece I bought is this one above. I call it my "Fashionista" fabric. If you look closely, click to enlarge, these women have all the latest and greatest fashions and I love their hair and faces. They have joggers, Marlo sweaters, white sneakers everywhere and more. Have fun picking out the trends! I think I will make a Melody Dolman out of this one. We shall see. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rXjaYhS_nv3Y__fYySSA08l1cWKdW2IP0CN_5HoSqOp-ouIAKfNC4bkU3DBC398M9qnqOfV6n2iLewS9ApKykmwSMZU_Fxw2qnp4qqXbRv4lDI0zkDSKW57E5xelI7f2bRyRj4fdpF1RbJi4KenCemdejp-xpSjod-bHisKajUEMzAOhEbEdAb8TyLs/s6000/DSC_0847.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rXjaYhS_nv3Y__fYySSA08l1cWKdW2IP0CN_5HoSqOp-ouIAKfNC4bkU3DBC398M9qnqOfV6n2iLewS9ApKykmwSMZU_Fxw2qnp4qqXbRv4lDI0zkDSKW57E5xelI7f2bRyRj4fdpF1RbJi4KenCemdejp-xpSjod-bHisKajUEMzAOhEbEdAb8TyLs/w640-h426/DSC_0847.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div>More Lady McElroy fabrics: Another fabulous viscose and a luxurious 100% cotton wide wale corduroy</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN39nsjXtekiViokG7MbzIWtyggrZYc7mfz9yilbhtJxAvGe4KPiy5KUex384Q9Vxn2ygQbiGnqwCLd7QPQktjEMheQqtwTiEx7HQRAuJoEuU9mPLpfOQoXqc5DeHiuzUOMRPisXYi7uNd-VR6TlMkoLMSzbn5UKbTjC9dDbBFivGt44hV2e018NHLaS8/s6000/DSC_0030.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN39nsjXtekiViokG7MbzIWtyggrZYc7mfz9yilbhtJxAvGe4KPiy5KUex384Q9Vxn2ygQbiGnqwCLd7QPQktjEMheQqtwTiEx7HQRAuJoEuU9mPLpfOQoXqc5DeHiuzUOMRPisXYi7uNd-VR6TlMkoLMSzbn5UKbTjC9dDbBFivGt44hV2e018NHLaS8/w640-h426/DSC_0030.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg443oJvm2XvSOpqXtczfcabI9l6uR3MdjlMpsUjJ1WFmAq7rCl7zT5MO9SBlBoSFyCDLvRPgrdbyfC6-PAfc8UAOKh7DFgls84fB5FJvQD4u58ldBJiIfZ-FI6c5VXjJiMKU0EyiVm6gv_o36TQWcDLRBVjNPTcPM_CrBFfQmDMZD87MlBntg68Ut2udE/s6000/DSC_0028.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg443oJvm2XvSOpqXtczfcabI9l6uR3MdjlMpsUjJ1WFmAq7rCl7zT5MO9SBlBoSFyCDLvRPgrdbyfC6-PAfc8UAOKh7DFgls84fB5FJvQD4u58ldBJiIfZ-FI6c5VXjJiMKU0EyiVm6gv_o36TQWcDLRBVjNPTcPM_CrBFfQmDMZD87MlBntg68Ut2udE/w640-h426/DSC_0028.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So add this to what is already in the resource center and I am ready to Spring into sewing now! My bomber jacket just needs the hem sewn up into the lining. All of the rest is complete. It was quite a project, mostly due to bulk. I can't wait to show. I think it will give me years of wear. Happy Sewing. Be healthy all!..........Bunny</b></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZf1r-9XLGFmixccxFExPYeqGs4rABC_BgdUlPPxSqdv2kn1U_EQ86NQ-gsdVz4PfkNMv8m9dSQQrXjxFW3viC9Q8SanMCGd3acj0btwjRjbT8wDXGmvpjoZYLvgyaNCaisvnUTDusIhXOZXSFYhN1F9AMyu5Grin3XmcN0L-eJFRFB7ragwyRtbeJXk/s6000/DSC_0033.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZf1r-9XLGFmixccxFExPYeqGs4rABC_BgdUlPPxSqdv2kn1U_EQ86NQ-gsdVz4PfkNMv8m9dSQQrXjxFW3viC9Q8SanMCGd3acj0btwjRjbT8wDXGmvpjoZYLvgyaNCaisvnUTDusIhXOZXSFYhN1F9AMyu5Grin3XmcN0L-eJFRFB7ragwyRtbeJXk/w640-h426/DSC_0033.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><b>Velvet sleeves, HEAVY duty rib knit cuffs and Kasha lining, ready for stitching. </b><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-12436514517136104602024-01-12T16:26:00.005-05:002024-02-16T21:33:24.186-05:00Notions, Patterns and Fabrics, Oh my!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn-fsly.yottaa.net/55d09df10b53443653002e6e/www.joann.com/v~4b.5a2/dw/image/v2/AAMM_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-joann-product-catalog/default/dwe6e44759/images/hi-res/10/1076744.jpg?sw=556&sh=680&sm=fit&yocs=7M_7S_7X_" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="556" height="556" src="https://cdn-fsly.yottaa.net/55d09df10b53443653002e6e/www.joann.com/v~4b.5a2/dw/image/v2/AAMM_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-joann-product-catalog/default/dwe6e44759/images/hi-res/10/1076744.jpg?sw=556&sh=680&sm=fit&yocs=7M_7S_7X_" width="556" /></a></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I haven't used one of these in 20 years. I don't even own one of the little red nosed thingies. Have I stabbed myself with one of them once or twice? Oh, yeah., right in that tender part of the palm. My first change of tool was the single edged razor blade. I used that for years. It had that cover on one side of the blade. It had to be safe, right? Well, it was. No accidents ever. But, I found better. For the past ten years my seam ripper of choice has been the scary to many but high performance box cutter blade. Those pointy corners were a dream for digging deep into jeans and such. </b></div></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/f5628ef1-e384-489b-a098-1c69c0307936/svn/stanley-knife-blades-11-921k-40_600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/f5628ef1-e384-489b-a098-1c69c0307936/svn/stanley-knife-blades-11-921k-40_600.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Thanks to Jennifer Stern and an hour you-tubing. I have found something even better. I really didn't think anything could beat my beloved Stanley pack of 100 of these blades but thanks to Jen I have found it. It is safer, so effective, and works incredibly effortlessly. Meet the "Kai Seam Remover". As Kai says "</b></span><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span face=""Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"> Its unique design allows for fear-free </span><span face=""Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;">"unsewing". </span><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span>It does. There is no tugging, digging or pulling. It works surprisingly smoothly, something you have to actually experience. </span></span></span></b></div></span><p></p><p><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-family: times; font-size: medium; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7mCwoCh6w10vfB6Y_YfXpT6OHYSwyMyMzgRaYxI9KbmxffBSCrMFCkzrER00GpmEP_qcLah3eM6OoeE7pDO5_d6BnRCrE-_Hw-4LRKtqcJH9RdndEEvCtZX3KZL47Fv_MWISQQPHd7pudoCT6ZM_W3NvLTlBZ6wz9DaPz1IPoJEaC1xnNlS5fsl48iQ/s6000/DSC_0871.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7mCwoCh6w10vfB6Y_YfXpT6OHYSwyMyMzgRaYxI9KbmxffBSCrMFCkzrER00GpmEP_qcLah3eM6OoeE7pDO5_d6BnRCrE-_Hw-4LRKtqcJH9RdndEEvCtZX3KZL47Fv_MWISQQPHd7pudoCT6ZM_W3NvLTlBZ6wz9DaPz1IPoJEaC1xnNlS5fsl48iQ/w640-h426/DSC_0871.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></b></div><b><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"> Closeup you can see the blade is sunk between the little concave indentations. You can't cut yourself. Is this looking familiar?</span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"><b></b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCK0BSQ-dkZMN7Wkq5YtkDz2Ij5v0cxoJsiL2tkSl4Wyms8oDXfxLTs0V90H6jhK2gWfgZtbkDLHGLuQzJX-oCkX0pRkZHX7zo7tBxp6s5GoEdtrRdSh7BuDO96BDFkJIo-w20i_enolawaSSTkYnfLC71KPIWT7lgVFzt65j5AqZicuBQWGEwPYR0L9g/s2566/DSC_0873.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1884" data-original-width="2566" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCK0BSQ-dkZMN7Wkq5YtkDz2Ij5v0cxoJsiL2tkSl4Wyms8oDXfxLTs0V90H6jhK2gWfgZtbkDLHGLuQzJX-oCkX0pRkZHX7zo7tBxp6s5GoEdtrRdSh7BuDO96BDFkJIo-w20i_enolawaSSTkYnfLC71KPIWT7lgVFzt65j5AqZicuBQWGEwPYR0L9g/w640-h470/DSC_0873.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></b></div><b><span style="font-family: times;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-size: medium; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;">It might. Many women use this exact type of instrument to shave their faces, maybe eyebrows or lip areas in particular or maybe the entire face as two women I know well do. (You'd never know.) So if you want one, go to the drug store or discount store and buy a pack in the eyebrow shave department, 3 to a pack for the same price, no shipping. Get the longer face shaver not the short eyebrow only shavers. Next...............</span></b></div></span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"><b></b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPQEYFc-Srl7sMV1lSuXnt-ck7JYHezowZVLzzdKT9S7sfd9j5kwYpTSgDPnq0JDsHE7rIjWNAVEcbe5Pgd7pWVlDGdNku1AE-xHYQTj4qr5dmmZPAdyCrCW59sMS2pTbI6jKUwE72I0U_cPmFMuiRrO8dl5YIJ9_T8VBC4ULc7-1kFy9RlZaoOPP1vs/s3678/DSC_0877.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3440" data-original-width="3678" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPQEYFc-Srl7sMV1lSuXnt-ck7JYHezowZVLzzdKT9S7sfd9j5kwYpTSgDPnq0JDsHE7rIjWNAVEcbe5Pgd7pWVlDGdNku1AE-xHYQTj4qr5dmmZPAdyCrCW59sMS2pTbI6jKUwE72I0U_cPmFMuiRrO8dl5YIJ9_T8VBC4ULc7-1kFy9RlZaoOPP1vs/w640-h598/DSC_0877.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></b></div><b><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;">I think this is one of the best notions I've purchased in a long time. It is "Fabric ID Tape" from Kylie and the Machine. This big roll will have enough ID tape to label 248 pieces of fabric, yahoo! I've got about a 1/4 of my stash done so far and haven't made a dent in this roll. As I've said before, my stash is not that big. ;)</span></span></b></div></span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"><b></b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oRnpRpfdI10ekdCT38FOaUbIAksdWoLWmGo2uD3h7LSqjbOMZL-YTxgkz0RDLRJdux-PShJMTpU8pX5aR0noDTEZKJ_vbsew-vVyP_zh1y8EMsLCCDdX7MBdBVGd6S_dNaiyy3FDow9xjz7APDOTWH0k80ZXqIhT-BrK2jp0gl31bYAYErHNxftSP4k/s4945/DSC_0879.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3640" data-original-width="4945" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oRnpRpfdI10ekdCT38FOaUbIAksdWoLWmGo2uD3h7LSqjbOMZL-YTxgkz0RDLRJdux-PShJMTpU8pX5aR0noDTEZKJ_vbsew-vVyP_zh1y8EMsLCCDdX7MBdBVGd6S_dNaiyy3FDow9xjz7APDOTWH0k80ZXqIhT-BrK2jp0gl31bYAYErHNxftSP4k/w640-h472/DSC_0879.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></b></div><b><span style="font-family: times;"><br /><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-size: large; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><br /></span></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Kylie promises it won't hurt your fabric and I test each label on a corner of fabric to make sure. This sticks and doesn't harm. It is very easily removeable. You are able to put fiber content, measurements, pre-washed?, source and there is plenty of space for additional notes . I added things like "fade line on fold" or the date purchased and such. Then I stuck on top of my nice folded fabric and put the fabric with its friends and can immediately know how much I have as I peruse options. I love staring at my folded fabrics on the shelves. As ideas hit me, I can know immediately if I have enough to make them work, no removing anything from the pile. Leave it</span></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGrobPcRii_0hAZcjmtrN8Ve5EmzG18qJaI_yLxnNw6Tu-wACUqASM9xXLrUyjLueVBD0EGUJObnLQbi7TpZDPIvtr9w-jfuU8xCVGCDyHmPl3w23VofpoPnieVoK-6etuiG5UuLm8lToVkqeNEcGqCR78TqI8Rp3n3c91H7TrPB05Ib_ebxHvEenAqD4/s4643/DSC_0878.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3711" data-original-width="4643" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGrobPcRii_0hAZcjmtrN8Ve5EmzG18qJaI_yLxnNw6Tu-wACUqASM9xXLrUyjLueVBD0EGUJObnLQbi7TpZDPIvtr9w-jfuU8xCVGCDyHmPl3w23VofpoPnieVoK-6etuiG5UuLm8lToVkqeNEcGqCR78TqI8Rp3n3c91H7TrPB05Ib_ebxHvEenAqD4/w640-h512/DSC_0878.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br />to Kylie to come up with this cleverosity. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-size: large; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">****************************************</span></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="font-size: large;">I</span><span style="font-size: medium;">t could be her voice, so unique. It could be her impressive skill set. Maybe it's even the tropical birds chirping in the Bolivian background. Katrina Trinidad could sell me anything. She sold me the "Melody Dolman" top pattern by Love Notions. You know I am a born and brought up Big Four woman but I work in a few indies here and there. I like experienced designers, tested out by the masses with results I approve of. It's a short list. When I do buy an Indie, because of their heavier expense, they have to offer me options, potential for great creativity. A One and Done at 18.00 does not do it for me. A perfect example would be my Sewing Workshop patterns. I've done 3 Picasso Pants, I think 7 Eureka tops (some yet to show you), maybe three Tea Garden Tees and more. You get my drift. I want my money's worth. I've watched Katrina work magic with the Melody Dolman top and started to get my own ideas. I think it will be perfect for our summer vacation. I saw her make a thrift find into a Melody Dolman dress, her own invention. This type of creative possibility really sparked me. This is one of the two Indie Patterns I have invested in lately. In my head I am already adding seams, inserting yokes, gathering ruffles, etc. Its what I like to do. Thanks, Karina. The design is so simple but I like that. It offers so much creative potential. </span></span></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; font-family: times; font-size: medium; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #262425; font-size: large; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.lovenotions.com/wp-content/uploads/Meloday-Dolman-cover-xs-5x-980x1268.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: times;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="618" height="800" src="https://www.lovenotions.com/wp-content/uploads/Meloday-Dolman-cover-xs-5x-980x1268.jpg" width="618" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="color: #262425;">My next purchase was inspired by Sarah of <a href="https://youtu.be/mIwpCjPZb6c?si=iWUXjvjehyacTTbE">Sew Sarah Style. </a> Now, Sarah looks great in all that she sews and wears. I liked the "Dila" dress on her but her links to the designers from "Notches" and their designs really caught me. I chose the "Dila" dress for myself. It has 27,. yes, 27 different versions, no expansion packs to rip you off! I like it for its full length everything version in orange. I see it offering great opportunity for painting, embellishment, etc. It really sparked my creativity and again, offers lots of opportunity for many makes. I really look forward to making this and have great fabric in house ready to go. It's different and me. The company<a href="https://www.notchespatterns.com/"> "Notches" </a>has an interesting and impressive pedigree. You might enjoy checking them out. </b></div></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262425; font-size: medium;"></span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262425;"><a href="https://www.notchespatterns.com/cdn/shop/files/Banner_Judy_striped_wrap_dress_PDF_patterns_women.jpg?v=1696339356" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="430" height="610" src="https://www.notchespatterns.com/cdn/shop/files/Banner_Judy_striped_wrap_dress_PDF_patterns_women.jpg?v=1696339356" width="430" /></a></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262425;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262425;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>These are the notions and patterns I am excited about right now. Both notions have been working wonderfully and the patterns will happen soon enough. I have lots to say about the fabric so that will get it's own post in a few days. There are some interesting pieces. I hope you will join me to share in the fun. Until then, Happy Sewing..............Bunny</b></span></span></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #262425; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-size: large; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></b></p><p><b><span style="background-color: #eaeaea; color: #262425; font-size: large; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-49280948022559440602024-01-10T17:48:00.006-05:002024-02-16T21:34:17.759-05:002024, Bring it on!<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>2023 was not one of the easiest years I've experienced. I am determined that 2024 will be better. I have lots planned with my sewing and look so forward to sharing it with all of you. I haven't been blogging as much this year and lately but I've had a lot of life's interesting challenges intervening. That will change. Through it all, sewing has been my Northern Star. It all started with my middle of the night incident where my diaphragm was injured far more than I knew. What proceeded was a cascade of health issues that continues to this day. Throw in some surgeries, concussion, post concossion business, etc etc etc. And of course, as soon as we are all over our humps, covid rears its ugly head. There was also tragic loss to deal but I am blessed with an amazing family, truly blessed. I am ready to be well and 2024 will be doing all I can to get back to gardening, and moving more and being my usual energetic self. The one thing I truly enjoyed, thru all this time, was my sewing. I have numerous posts planned and some exciting sewing as well. I'll share some teases here with you first. </b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSDAruNWOpvxB8RyRFltU_nho3Tvz3hIu7IercvlfjWYZju49Cp1tl4fMyBcD81MqXC-cqAp-6z9Eek398IxetMFdbgNj23nzRtmIOSWYamavlE5sR59PgePBMu5wpBIR6IUb13wqf6AILzLM_Qwu1DBhn9Zf2rGlyP0dz2zDrB5bQmmXm8foFMOaO-8/s6000/DSC_0954.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSDAruNWOpvxB8RyRFltU_nho3Tvz3hIu7IercvlfjWYZju49Cp1tl4fMyBcD81MqXC-cqAp-6z9Eek398IxetMFdbgNj23nzRtmIOSWYamavlE5sR59PgePBMu5wpBIR6IUb13wqf6AILzLM_Qwu1DBhn9Zf2rGlyP0dz2zDrB5bQmmXm8foFMOaO-8/w640-h426/DSC_0954.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Another Imby top! No eye makeup. Blepharitis strikes!</span></div><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I've invested in a couple of great PDF patterns and am excited to share all about those. Lord, I hate taping! But for a good design, something unique, I'll endure it. So, more to come there, The two pattern companies are <a href="https://www.notchespatterns.com/">"Love Notions"</a> and "</b><a href="https://www.notchespatterns.com/" style="font-weight: bold;">Notches"</a><b>. You know I am a thrifty type of a woman, so my pattern choices have to provide me with lots of opportunity for many makes to justify the price. I am up to my seventh "Eureka" pattern as of last week. I've made two or three recently. </b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYDRxRK_zhGxi_t3Kh6DLbU0Dglj1M-BoK_NV7gDcoI4GID0XFhY4unfed_QtJJ9tGNcv1i-GGPlmhE2JMHRq4mvCtV4FYcNFIu78Tgb_XnM4bTKUgVS3p2IC1TSCIEaTfDvrzWAwEpTR3-EtrL1V22etoujUA5OV0G6GgDyIHnKl1ZJf2QD3sNwMcUw/s6000/DSC_0027.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYDRxRK_zhGxi_t3Kh6DLbU0Dglj1M-BoK_NV7gDcoI4GID0XFhY4unfed_QtJJ9tGNcv1i-GGPlmhE2JMHRq4mvCtV4FYcNFIu78Tgb_XnM4bTKUgVS3p2IC1TSCIEaTfDvrzWAwEpTR3-EtrL1V22etoujUA5OV0G6GgDyIHnKl1ZJf2QD3sNwMcUw/w640-h426/DSC_0027.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><div style="text-align: center;">Lady McElroy rayon challis</div></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>From patterns I jump to fabric. I did do a lot, for me, of on line shopping. It is, by far, just a small amount compared to most, but I watched a lot of youtube and when vloggers start showing you their makes or start draping their purchases over their shoulders, it sells me better than any thumbnail out there. I had only one "off" experience but it was really a miscommunication x misunderstanding on both sides and was worked out beautifully in the end. So my fabric purchases online have been quite positive. I can't say enough about Stone Mountain and Daughter and there were a couple more as well. At this stage I definitely shop far far less and far more discriminately. I'd rather sew slowly, with thought, and with awesome fabrics. I've discovered Lady McElroy. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZjiwGhzVzCmCUxDbVP8mDW2wkTSkwF0SACrPBxCIK5zpbfvtAgi2CTtU5WGrWQorAs5aDPSkE0jF-rsbPfFYymYX0Fk-Vdj_dE6ps2noOXixPgzMYx543lj7zkGIqAuHvrrnUuFhR0c6hrk8J5AASGMjQtn7wkk8tA0X_67P4n2F83pFsNs0ennqtHY/s6000/DSC_0815.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZjiwGhzVzCmCUxDbVP8mDW2wkTSkwF0SACrPBxCIK5zpbfvtAgi2CTtU5WGrWQorAs5aDPSkE0jF-rsbPfFYymYX0Fk-Vdj_dE6ps2noOXixPgzMYx543lj7zkGIqAuHvrrnUuFhR0c6hrk8J5AASGMjQtn7wkk8tA0X_67P4n2F83pFsNs0ennqtHY/w640-h426/DSC_0815.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Harvested from a thrift shop find!!!</div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Recycling was on the agenda as well and there will be a post to show you a few of those. What fun! I think one in particular is fabulous, if I may say so myself. I have been very inspired by <a href="https://youtu.be/HR9qddl2w_M?si=zGnQsfKdgjxAOoR-">Vlogger "Catherine Sews"</a>, a textile professor who does really worthwhile recycling. Her methods quite surprised me and are not the "stick two shirts together' you see everywhere. She has great vision and the sewing skills to pull great results from old clothes. I harvested this fabric above from one thrift opp and was quite pleased with the results. </b></span></p><p><b style="font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUi3evS0Cgan0SFpVdJ_beYPQ5tdKyygxCruNrjWMcQ2zIvf7nRtrkOHQfwj1gFrnyOyHpXtyOZPIs_A6aFRtmpZl6mxivQQy3Hmdgonlk-kVs8nRUTXg75abvpkR724qIn0nBGcgHcH0YMO1LR7rtase1L056K3nTfT-xo3_g46P86j6DbRIyK7ScDI/s6000/DSC_0886.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUi3evS0Cgan0SFpVdJ_beYPQ5tdKyygxCruNrjWMcQ2zIvf7nRtrkOHQfwj1gFrnyOyHpXtyOZPIs_A6aFRtmpZl6mxivQQy3Hmdgonlk-kVs8nRUTXg75abvpkR724qIn0nBGcgHcH0YMO1LR7rtase1L056K3nTfT-xo3_g46P86j6DbRIyK7ScDI/w640-h426/DSC_0886.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There were great notions purchased as well and I can't wait to share those. I am using them a lot. At this point I have really culled my fabrics to some fine pieces. Many are just casual, like my favorite Essex Linen. You can never have too much of that hanging around. It can be made into almost anything! But there are other pieces that defy the touch of my hands. I have had this gorgeous piece of velvet for about 6-7 years now. It is a beautiful print. My social life is good but it is different. I don't need a velvet suit, dress or blazer. But, damn, I sure could use a velvet Bomber Jacket. That is what I am working on now and what a challenge! With it's welt pockets, heavy rib knit cuffs and collar, I am definitely doing some slow sewing here. I can't wait to share with you all. I can see it with some dark jeans and black cami or such. It's been intense sewing. That velvet, however, has found it's place. I think I will get a lot of use out of it. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I'll sign off for now. More posts coming and it's good to be back and sharing my passion. Happy Sewing and a Happy and Healthy New Year to all of you, dear friends............Bunny</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><br /></p><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-15731829326443539682023-10-12T14:45:00.004-04:002024-02-16T21:35:07.414-05:00The "Imby Flowy Top"<p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwecqnLHJ6u_865_-3mzIfGubt_YU0NKgVx9kYlaiOKEZZVz8zW6sQk_leKn5hR0YU-gfaOrri4eQLR7KBB6kvFwKF5rF9zIR7r-fjmnq6Ky7mRkUhNBGXVw9qqEK68oOQ1_2kh64PIhclvdTFaA9zydD9ADFUnSy7eNxmGsUK9wTX5gH-VRzhvTxrukk/s5113/DSC_0720.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5113" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwecqnLHJ6u_865_-3mzIfGubt_YU0NKgVx9kYlaiOKEZZVz8zW6sQk_leKn5hR0YU-gfaOrri4eQLR7KBB6kvFwKF5rF9zIR7r-fjmnq6Ky7mRkUhNBGXVw9qqEK68oOQ1_2kh64PIhclvdTFaA9zydD9ADFUnSy7eNxmGsUK9wTX5gH-VRzhvTxrukk/w640-h500/DSC_0720.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I absolutely L O V E my Imby Flowy top. Can you tell?</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvNj-yzFLldtkb9_ixpvZtzdA46dM8bGH-Rss8aN8cBT7IwaBm1MJOpQt90rG_OnXOxhaslJyzQRZwkzFNi4j8nk0f4cu64EdwBoP_oGZ6F-jcvLBV8jHW4mn0iJNhP8iU04v1Od1iQJl_SIy9GyO8x_RnRwTEh43dWbpkCVoV_I0vuYW-8e3bxMECuI/s5235/DSC_0752.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3994" data-original-width="5235" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvNj-yzFLldtkb9_ixpvZtzdA46dM8bGH-Rss8aN8cBT7IwaBm1MJOpQt90rG_OnXOxhaslJyzQRZwkzFNi4j8nk0f4cu64EdwBoP_oGZ6F-jcvLBV8jHW4mn0iJNhP8iU04v1Od1iQJl_SIy9GyO8x_RnRwTEh43dWbpkCVoV_I0vuYW-8e3bxMECuI/w640-h488/DSC_0752.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><b>This was such fun to make, so easy and quick. It is also so very comfortable to wear as well. Add in the fact that it was a free pattern made from upcycled fabric and how can it get any better?</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is the Imby Flowy top from<a href="https://www.karmmeapparel.com.au/"> Karmme Apparel.</a> It is a free download and the designer does sell a few other patterns as well. Unfortunately, within the past day, the pattern has been taken down with a note that it will be back up. Perhaps with a sale price? I will keep you posted. I can tell you the designer is self admittedly not a pattern designer and asks for your understanding (?). She does design apparel fabrics and clothing and is based out of Australia. She says the pattern is "one size" and fits size 8 to 14 Australian. I've researched and found that in the US we run about two sizes smaller than Oz. There is a<a href="https://www.finder.com.au/dress-size-conversion-chart#:~:text=Australian%20sizes%20are%20measured%20the,a%206%20in%20the%20US."> conversion chart in this article </a>that shows you the difference between Australian sizing and many other countries. Since I often wear a 4 in tops this worked out. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">ETA: It appears to available again. Here is a link: <a href="https://www.karmmeapparel.com.au/products/karmme-apparel-pattern-download">The Imby Flowy Top</a></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh714PFODtOG5Hvawo9OQYKXxRwr8DGF-LdiuaOH0s-CdGryAOnUAbwpQSqMHYRhRxmlG6CTDctcv8r2Q5JmvWtPAnEXKIvPmTjRV3uIjMO3zf-JWW_1EPN_LqMbMvO1PPoiVEr3wYPh318CbjOGv9BWO48PJWugaQeYbCAVQrCiVWb_qMn9NMhoaRGAxA/s5183/DSC_0754.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5183" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh714PFODtOG5Hvawo9OQYKXxRwr8DGF-LdiuaOH0s-CdGryAOnUAbwpQSqMHYRhRxmlG6CTDctcv8r2Q5JmvWtPAnEXKIvPmTjRV3uIjMO3zf-JWW_1EPN_LqMbMvO1PPoiVEr3wYPh318CbjOGv9BWO48PJWugaQeYbCAVQrCiVWb_qMn9NMhoaRGAxA/w640-h494/DSC_0754.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><b><br /></b></b></p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This PDF pattern can easily be adjusted to accommodate larger sizes as well as smaller ones. There is no fit other than the yoke and any concerns about the length of hem and sleeves. It is VERY full and that is what feels so nice. All the measurements provided are in meters. The directions provide a sheet showing them all quite clearly. I put the imperial measurements in by hand to help myself. All seams are 5/8ths. Two closure options are available. One is a back slit and tie. The other is a deeper front slit and tie. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVQ5DdHET5xA2L72Kl0LLfiF0VlgxkYOrji3WZHA9XQyqfTGo3pxpT4cLV5rOlrfLjDL50UpLyo5dq2KdAFi2uXtf2RJTCK3JM4ORpcEiA9b4aJHEfeLy-KetEpD7hhkp1KLxNFZm7fezTHv8pIyF_GrSYqkIpr-D2VMUGedrskzOG8tYVET0Lw8-wzc/s4042/DSC_0697.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4042" data-original-width="3926" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVQ5DdHET5xA2L72Kl0LLfiF0VlgxkYOrji3WZHA9XQyqfTGo3pxpT4cLV5rOlrfLjDL50UpLyo5dq2KdAFi2uXtf2RJTCK3JM4ORpcEiA9b4aJHEfeLy-KetEpD7hhkp1KLxNFZm7fezTHv8pIyF_GrSYqkIpr-D2VMUGedrskzOG8tYVET0Lw8-wzc/w622-h640/DSC_0697.JPG" width="622" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fabric</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykrIaXSgKyZVd6094DOlQGIwkiNyWoOMz8ful2nEFyh_nwk5LyQiT4u_-xxw82Wh3OQ2yeYHQPOuopzMZJ_uas8y01GKjrjXu-QDJ5UqYpSu0OqrEVo0JiRvzAgr_LsPyKbbDdtMfqM83ODaZJn5QzwCRI5F-fEJqDwzXd34nM8qhoJkVASsG-y3_IIA/s6000/DSC_0683.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykrIaXSgKyZVd6094DOlQGIwkiNyWoOMz8ful2nEFyh_nwk5LyQiT4u_-xxw82Wh3OQ2yeYHQPOuopzMZJ_uas8y01GKjrjXu-QDJ5UqYpSu0OqrEVo0JiRvzAgr_LsPyKbbDdtMfqM83ODaZJn5QzwCRI5F-fEJqDwzXd34nM8qhoJkVASsG-y3_IIA/w640-h426/DSC_0683.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="font-size: large;">In my resources is a big, plastic tote full of fabrics for muslins. It is 95% solid colored sheets and such. All I needed was a small piece to test out the front and back yoke. As I dug I noticed an odd piece of fabric with color and print. Surely it didn't belong there. I yanked it from the tote, out of curiosity and recognized a shower curtain I had purchased fairly recently. It was far too bright and vivid for our bathroom tastes and I took it down from it's life as an outer shower curtain and evidently threw it in the muslin tote. Dang, this could make the whole top, never mind my muslin yoke. I pulled it out. It was still a shower curtain and 100% cotton. It was slubbed, very soft and light and draped beautifully. This would work. I did a test lay and discovered I could get all my piece out of the curtain and still play with it's border effect. But a shower curtain for a blouse? </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9oNHEUxBJJGmHPOA0QcteqBHTRwTHHw84jBz61ARkOesENFMDsE_XKhbDWnat9fXUQKLykIxxWge2RIhwFmsHp18UG3Jy8wzlAxxcBqtMFXX0a4UAQGrPtWwymyzChBcGTqXTwEZCfAeq_gLic028t_0zRAOQsrAvyb5pjZ-uSB_Uha4b3_yMENgS9k/s5962/DSC_0681.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3897" data-original-width="5962" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9oNHEUxBJJGmHPOA0QcteqBHTRwTHHw84jBz61ARkOesENFMDsE_XKhbDWnat9fXUQKLykIxxWge2RIhwFmsHp18UG3Jy8wzlAxxcBqtMFXX0a4UAQGrPtWwymyzChBcGTqXTwEZCfAeq_gLic028t_0zRAOQsrAvyb5pjZ-uSB_Uha4b3_yMENgS9k/w640-h418/DSC_0681.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="font-size: large;"> </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Everything about it was perfect, the fiber, the drape, the border print. I went for it. Will I tell anyone but dear sewists like all of you where it came from? Only upcyclers, friends, only upcyclers. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fit</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hOy88Y1wUI6VW1b5US56C6PrCaP4rsy92Ngk4R0tW5V2Cg02YR-8aGRI4ACiAjSLH1qbYGipHZUmoiuZPb_LpO18CvRQID5YOHcCYRhkeoWfPr_dFrMMfwOwA2No3aPGHln4lpTPAsUCXUk1yLMrNW0__JUP6equHFWeABhao7Q3dXWFF6-3wWuvTok/s4521/DSC_0698.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3949" data-original-width="4521" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hOy88Y1wUI6VW1b5US56C6PrCaP4rsy92Ngk4R0tW5V2Cg02YR-8aGRI4ACiAjSLH1qbYGipHZUmoiuZPb_LpO18CvRQID5YOHcCYRhkeoWfPr_dFrMMfwOwA2No3aPGHln4lpTPAsUCXUk1yLMrNW0__JUP6equHFWeABhao7Q3dXWFF6-3wWuvTok/w640-h560/DSC_0698.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>As mentioned, the only fit concerns with this garment are the fit of the yoke and the lengths of the sleeves and hems. I kept the sleeves as given. I reduced the length of the hem by 2 3/4 inches and took a 1 1/2 inch hem from that. This gave me the higher hip effect I wanted. I took a scrap of cotton batik and cut out the yoke. There is extreme fullness here as you will see in an upcoming back shot so no concerns for FBAs or large darts. There really is no underarm fit. The skirt is 70 something inches around. My personal concerns, beside the width of the shoulders, were also the depth of the V neck slit in the front. If you look at the pic above there are three arrows. The bottom arrow is where the pattern wants to end the slit. The middle arrow is where I ended the slit. The top arrow is where I </b><b><i> thought </i>I should end the slit. I cut back the armscye seam, the side of the yoke, 3/4 s of an inch. I highly suggest you make a yoke muslin first before cutting out this top. It takes minutes of only sewing up the shoulder seams and no more. Another question, which shown from the tops on <i>IG</i> was where the horizontal empire waist seam would land. It was in all sorts of places depending on the body. Mine landed right where I hoped so no changes there, across and a little above the apex. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This was so easy to put together and the instructions given, while conversational, get you there well enough. The designer has a youtube video of the entire construction which I highly recommend. I was originally lost a bit with the installation of the ties but when I saw the video, it was brilliant. I had never seen ties attached in that manner and now it will be my go to. <a href="https://youtu.be/kVhYu0TweTQ?si=FfgzrRfRXvJmzU1M">Imby Video</a></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>A pic is worth a thousand words so check out the back of this shirt. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPy-Vc8O2FBwMYHwG1ILxluHn-FyH60f0eoK2Xgu01SGJHa_LqgaBoQJGK998dk3hHU_ImiIFGRSPTfOiyFEPIbJfDFo5_ERHyrTgVmKB3TFTZ1ECAAKN3fC9W0Z3_pE9MbHRvQJIqUXlbsm1V0TfjnEPgGndS0KZT5NdFqqmPlG4vNQTXPwU4X3_Djw/s4263/DSC_0735.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3640" data-original-width="4263" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPy-Vc8O2FBwMYHwG1ILxluHn-FyH60f0eoK2Xgu01SGJHa_LqgaBoQJGK998dk3hHU_ImiIFGRSPTfOiyFEPIbJfDFo5_ERHyrTgVmKB3TFTZ1ECAAKN3fC9W0Z3_pE9MbHRvQJIqUXlbsm1V0TfjnEPgGndS0KZT5NdFqqmPlG4vNQTXPwU4X3_Djw/w640-h546/DSC_0735.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>The large sleeves are gathered only half way across their caps. The front of the sleeve caps get the gathers. The back of the sleeves are smooth which you can see by looking at the back yoke here. The sleeves then have an angle that meets at the sleeve under seam. It is flat also and matched the skirt which has the same angle on its ends. All of the skirt gathers are directly below the front and back yokes. You can see why this top is so very comfortable and why only the yoke requires fitting care. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The cuffs are gathered but you could easily do a binding if desired. About gathering: Here is a shot I did according to directions, two rows of gathering within the SA. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi984qPS77wjVM4Zhac8YWMxCfDT_G_9SJSAtEg8qX0ETlf7r4I94gpEHPPHcrpN2uS5SEOk4S7LOXBOUcl2VS-vs6f2yRkl9a-Pja1UnryMU3mbg-Zfay9mALL879QdpARkJA54kZxTF9RIOOuTbg9GGMbe4s9L5wNLqZolWZcK_tIhjAIQDivP0iXk3I/s4862/DSC_0688.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3325" data-original-width="4862" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi984qPS77wjVM4Zhac8YWMxCfDT_G_9SJSAtEg8qX0ETlf7r4I94gpEHPPHcrpN2uS5SEOk4S7LOXBOUcl2VS-vs6f2yRkl9a-Pja1UnryMU3mbg-Zfay9mALL879QdpARkJA54kZxTF9RIOOuTbg9GGMbe4s9L5wNLqZolWZcK_tIhjAIQDivP0iXk3I/w640-h438/DSC_0688.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Pleats are uneven and that did not sit well with me. On this next pic you will see better pleats on the front yoke. I did one row of basting within the SA and one beyond, in the garment. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdyfPgeBurBfoIapzxrr8qQmXrBa62dyEGMsDbwPee36oxqDOyCV2EbO10QYoYd24FKP2Tg64feyPBGOx2nFQMCGrFDjz3uxg6y2q-nKKGgaiCw5sa0jcCPNnnX7R_PK51A7d-G9uecz7PFJksCFMigzcMIl2tWJATkyOHsd30CvSBlo6FSfZ7m5Y5BWk/s4367/DSC_0690.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3492" data-original-width="4367" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdyfPgeBurBfoIapzxrr8qQmXrBa62dyEGMsDbwPee36oxqDOyCV2EbO10QYoYd24FKP2Tg64feyPBGOx2nFQMCGrFDjz3uxg6y2q-nKKGgaiCw5sa0jcCPNnnX7R_PK51A7d-G9uecz7PFJksCFMigzcMIl2tWJATkyOHsd30CvSBlo6FSfZ7m5Y5BWk/w640-h512/DSC_0690.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Tiny pleats, falling where they may. Sigh.....it's the smocker in me. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHlhWe3N9o1GtrJRpa6io21NOZ-If1Y_YqNXFH7j0JmmKFAIe_QVleOGIDUFTKMWbUgvksdtYfnYB8v_yEWtquLfWTJyd5x7LkCb4chvEXnpMwTXSMsojjAdTUNtd19NbK3YESW4e97uff46eqZZ5KyzzZXnaQ0lp9NiuEVbIfTRkEbZgy8pOzYBEofY/s6000/DSC_0695.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHlhWe3N9o1GtrJRpa6io21NOZ-If1Y_YqNXFH7j0JmmKFAIe_QVleOGIDUFTKMWbUgvksdtYfnYB8v_yEWtquLfWTJyd5x7LkCb4chvEXnpMwTXSMsojjAdTUNtd19NbK3YESW4e97uff46eqZZ5KyzzZXnaQ0lp9NiuEVbIfTRkEbZgy8pOzYBEofY/w640-h426/DSC_0695.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Mark your garment well. The dots are critical. You will be meeting these three angles at this corner. You do NOT stitch to the edge here. Just stitch to the dots. I chose to topstitch my yoke. It looked nice on the slub cotton. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSMhEO6056bHpTBfT73Nk0V3bmvRxWnrJSZEX4NvH_qj9aW0oQsHrv_tZdE6-O6KTP-IDuiRd-vATzjnORF_5iov00LNUuVMThdsmMruME3sHpYVTerrUvpGaBIAlFqaz5Y1sOdavqC1sOmzPpWrQ9YgnQzC7tCzYRWHnYMR9uBduMAOCXjY7jYm57ig8/s5563/DSC_0703.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5563" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSMhEO6056bHpTBfT73Nk0V3bmvRxWnrJSZEX4NvH_qj9aW0oQsHrv_tZdE6-O6KTP-IDuiRd-vATzjnORF_5iov00LNUuVMThdsmMruME3sHpYVTerrUvpGaBIAlFqaz5Y1sOdavqC1sOmzPpWrQ9YgnQzC7tCzYRWHnYMR9uBduMAOCXjY7jYm57ig8/w640-h460/DSC_0703.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Finally, the cuffs, just turned and stitched. All seams were machine stitched and then serged, nothing fancier. The hem was machine topstitched an inch and a half up in a double row. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkV2y7GK5zUY5ZecKNeLG4saOzVo3VNR3z7LSQkZ_HO56uC9-jOoYga6_tlLCAJjAA6iebUek53OeeboVUssAVywpWJQ1HXlkY227ly5RIHmK6iL2BO3GkZlu6NynOGhBAfR0KyGDLu38lsD8mCjzBccjoFzm3R1GLfCRojkiFyUXI2KNyjNQzGBQYWw/s4926/DSC_0709.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3981" data-original-width="4926" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkV2y7GK5zUY5ZecKNeLG4saOzVo3VNR3z7LSQkZ_HO56uC9-jOoYga6_tlLCAJjAA6iebUek53OeeboVUssAVywpWJQ1HXlkY227ly5RIHmK6iL2BO3GkZlu6NynOGhBAfR0KyGDLu38lsD8mCjzBccjoFzm3R1GLfCRojkiFyUXI2KNyjNQzGBQYWw/w640-h518/DSC_0709.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>In the end, I think it is a rather elegant little top, clearly designed by a real designer with a great eye for balance, style and detail. I highly recommend this pattern. I have seen a couple similar among indie designers but none have the more elegant lines of this one. I have fabrics for a second one on my table waiting for cutting!!!......Happy Sewing,,,,,,,,,,,Bunny</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRJqXW2CINd4Ajo7MfcldED5D3A3l7r3bRC6yBHfsIH_4d-_MdjgP-ljhI7yQ76wkAmNa5uFgYprt-NiWAVDgZGyY7I9kPpW9-ykG-r33YLO6z8xk2cxbfC6MB_h2AFKL6IL3bX9CbYuh9JxLIf2Edb4f5btXi_3EAsBEIwSRFO3qdcOZyuKZW34x8fY/s3633/DSC_0734.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3543" data-original-width="3633" height="624" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRJqXW2CINd4Ajo7MfcldED5D3A3l7r3bRC6yBHfsIH_4d-_MdjgP-ljhI7yQ76wkAmNa5uFgYprt-NiWAVDgZGyY7I9kPpW9-ykG-r33YLO6z8xk2cxbfC6MB_h2AFKL6IL3bX9CbYuh9JxLIf2Edb4f5btXi_3EAsBEIwSRFO3qdcOZyuKZW34x8fY/w640-h624/DSC_0734.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmSoTWWpkV8RnEyWcP61GmRrY9EoUTnwS7xWO3GNxwutL1hUTAhiewc9Ggo8dHq_XqD9swv4R28GyfwPzcCiuqK5Tw-B_WSanm5_SahaYZ4m46-lVPRiYQB3_XqHiaZI1rwv7qVeUvLJl1ta5TLG5a_6VDnGAtINRyUcVSflP8Bk91IqxSC29nDbMx_0/s6000/DSC_0708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmSoTWWpkV8RnEyWcP61GmRrY9EoUTnwS7xWO3GNxwutL1hUTAhiewc9Ggo8dHq_XqD9swv4R28GyfwPzcCiuqK5Tw-B_WSanm5_SahaYZ4m46-lVPRiYQB3_XqHiaZI1rwv7qVeUvLJl1ta5TLG5a_6VDnGAtINRyUcVSflP8Bk91IqxSC29nDbMx_0/w426-h640/DSC_0708.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-74537527114665986062023-10-07T09:07:00.005-04:002023-10-08T08:19:05.601-04:00McCalls 8406, the Bias Sequin Dress<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnG3KgjBUKuSpmW6VR33wiXeeffLhj5NSS9VCAtP2vb1PAMIBu4kJQE0_nGK4EvboYwBbDe-pD12VTf9r0utFH413_RSSBUCpkzcfkNcLlIrR0eGbXmRUvlJeNH0pulLsQX6SZmfstGNirG6GPY9lMfhaaN5lZpnh_Rtkc3qug2mz0u17CTx8CU9-_qw0/s6000/DSC_0637.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnG3KgjBUKuSpmW6VR33wiXeeffLhj5NSS9VCAtP2vb1PAMIBu4kJQE0_nGK4EvboYwBbDe-pD12VTf9r0utFH413_RSSBUCpkzcfkNcLlIrR0eGbXmRUvlJeNH0pulLsQX6SZmfstGNirG6GPY9lMfhaaN5lZpnh_Rtkc3qug2mz0u17CTx8CU9-_qw0/w640-h426/DSC_0637.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Chalk up another one! A bias cut dress out of sequined fabric. I have a lot to say about this project. First, it was perfect for the wedding. I had anxiety over whether I would be over/under dressed for the event. It was j u s t right! Second, it is hard to photograph this fabric. I took tons of pics and these two were the best. It just caught the light so weirdly in the photos and every time I moved in the slightest, the bias fabric had other ideas and movements. But in the end, it was perfect for the venue. Speaking of venue, the day was pouring buckets, foggy, just awful weather so the pics I planned on taking there just did not materialize. So let's get going on the sewing here!</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern</b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is <a href="https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m8406">McCalls 8406.</a> Here is their description, "</b></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/mccall/2023/8406/8406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="582" height="800" src="https://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/mccall/2023/8406/8406.jpg" width="582" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>It is McCalls 8406. They describe it as "</b></span><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; text-align: start;">Empire waist dress with sleeve and hemline variations has shawl collar neckline, narrow hem, bias skirt and invisible side zipper." </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; text-align: start;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>First, this dress needs a muslin created first. There are fit challenges here despite looking quite simple. For me, I needed to discover if I could even pull off a bias skirt with my hips and I could. But previous experiences at a heavier weight were otherwise so I was not going into this with confidence. I found the bias cut flattering and my husband really liked the fit, too. Next, there is a lovely empire curved rise to the bodice that under the arm dips down on the back bodice, very pretty. However, I needed a bit of Full Bust Adjustment and it is not easy on this pattern. The dolman sleeves are very deep but the bust fullness comes from those gathers below. I did a cheater FBA by adding a 3/8th inch ellipse curve in the gathered area below the bust. You can see what I mean with the red lines below. </b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqhh0WS7J0Mo7MJEb2ijelRT-8USx7j_eR87aXkFcvvBtlM_s5BRMJbu_CZr6bJNs5NwuUxu5JFDMXAXVYav4Fs74xen8mUZrfLrMc-a4pnw455ZwmyCmyI7c5LUXtv-zT5hqeqmkx0tEPI8VbyrSjqFKwuGOxC-aQqBFeuKOqvdHQ59kJrrB9L-8be20/s6000/DSC_0551.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqhh0WS7J0Mo7MJEb2ijelRT-8USx7j_eR87aXkFcvvBtlM_s5BRMJbu_CZr6bJNs5NwuUxu5JFDMXAXVYav4Fs74xen8mUZrfLrMc-a4pnw455ZwmyCmyI7c5LUXtv-zT5hqeqmkx0tEPI8VbyrSjqFKwuGOxC-aQqBFeuKOqvdHQ59kJrrB9L-8be20/w640-h426/DSC_0551.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>This pattern is fairly simple and should be a breeze, but my fabric choices and vision definitely complicated things. I also wanted to do the fabric justice so used techniques to achieve a more couture finish. It took time and three muslins. More on the muslin process is two posts back <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2023/08/lots-of-sequins-and-fit-mccalls-8406.html"> here. </a></b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>Fabric</b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5QddJE4BdGmQIKYHToBQ7ibS9lXRMRyYwMuGcc_tbGhXFT3eaRSSmNiRNKD1EVBosi4MADFh8apQPki2LbdUbLVYlunIRtQC6hxPwD1UFZMIc78t2Qi2vrKFu0vG_OZJJqeUP7rbiNXpa2uEc3TZpJ2bzo8zb6bT7La53Mu8huvYzzK2a6ARuX0RXGk/s640/DSC_0605.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="512" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5QddJE4BdGmQIKYHToBQ7ibS9lXRMRyYwMuGcc_tbGhXFT3eaRSSmNiRNKD1EVBosi4MADFh8apQPki2LbdUbLVYlunIRtQC6hxPwD1UFZMIc78t2Qi2vrKFu0vG_OZJJqeUP7rbiNXpa2uEc3TZpJ2bzo8zb6bT7La53Mu8huvYzzK2a6ARuX0RXGk/w400-h320/DSC_0605.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This was made with Ambiance lining and a sequin net fabric from Fabric Place Basement in Natick, Mass., the burbs of Boston. The sequins are tiny and trailing and on a net that is stronger than tulle and that does not stretch, unlike the mesh nets so prevalent right now. I learned a lot about sewing with sequins and you can read it in my last post <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2023/09/sewing-with-sequins.html">here.</a></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Construction</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The dress consisted of two parts. The bodice was dolman sleeves and a bias folded collar band. Under the arm would be the start of an invisible zipper installation that would continue down from the waistline another 10 inches into the skirt The bodice was underlined with the Ambiance and all bodice seams were Hong Kong bound finished. Each pattern section was block cut, thread traced, stay stitched next to the thread tracing and then finally cut out. This was to make sure there was no shifting while cutting and no bubbles between the fabric layers. Lots of handwork and fussing! Using silk thread for the basting made things easier.</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LnoE8mnKh0Nsr154LA0psF0y4ejOanxsE9I_ENo_M6m4UlPiyqVYXGn21VSnar4qy8NiFHtXMBtY69u85ad7brg3SZwNYrhwZ1I9tNVqfkxIzDKGwFevmFu20R7xVyJSFJdTuaFYas3p1ZJaGjoYcvf37Q5gmKN2nlTSuemnXN-slrcIn0s5IXDbrV0/s639/DSC_0585.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="386" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LnoE8mnKh0Nsr154LA0psF0y4ejOanxsE9I_ENo_M6m4UlPiyqVYXGn21VSnar4qy8NiFHtXMBtY69u85ad7brg3SZwNYrhwZ1I9tNVqfkxIzDKGwFevmFu20R7xVyJSFJdTuaFYas3p1ZJaGjoYcvf37Q5gmKN2nlTSuemnXN-slrcIn0s5IXDbrV0/w386-h640/DSC_0585.JPG" width="386" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I made a change in the collar construction. I have discovered, in more than one project, that a large BIAS band collar changes direction of grain in relation to the body as it wraps around. In the three muslins, I always had a large wrinkle on one side. I decided to split the neckline band in half at the back neckline and put a seam there and then reverse the grain of the band. This way the grains would mirror match as the came around the neck. Big wrinkle eliminated! The collar went in beautifully and all match points were spot on with this pattern. I made no petite adjustments to this pattern other than length. </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccTcUS7ueDz5CTVUlCZmnR5Bn4n1L7fWDYGk84xvwJgxx7kZ0pR2AbOtSCqTxa_XBEhlUikrZmO_PrnS1YDPKEE8du4N0w4lDl3Yj-mG_XO4uNoow485J5JEyxMUG1PvUsrgmX8z1dtD_fNHxdaEIoB6UjSDA3pKxWtP0jcPmwMs22ToXnLZge9Dcrfs/s6000/DSC_0620.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccTcUS7ueDz5CTVUlCZmnR5Bn4n1L7fWDYGk84xvwJgxx7kZ0pR2AbOtSCqTxa_XBEhlUikrZmO_PrnS1YDPKEE8du4N0w4lDl3Yj-mG_XO4uNoow485J5JEyxMUG1PvUsrgmX8z1dtD_fNHxdaEIoB6UjSDA3pKxWtP0jcPmwMs22ToXnLZge9Dcrfs/w640-h426/DSC_0620.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>On to part two, the skirt. On the pattern you see an exaggerated shirt tail hem. I liked that. My lace had beautiful lace bordered selvedge edges. I carefully cut them off to attach to the hem of the skirt. But, first the lining. It was easy to sew but I made the skirt too large. The top was a size six and the skirt was a twelve and way too big. It had only two seams , each side. I went back and took it in to a size ten and it was just right. You can see the original stitching in the seam above. You can also see that with these seams being cut on true bias, there is absolutely no ravelling. I made the decision to do no further finish on them. It would only add bulk and time. I'd been at this for a while now and wanted to get it finished. I have seen numerous vintage cocktail dresses finished exactly this way, of similar fabric, and was comfortable with my decision. I was using a size ten microtex needle but it still left holes. I think a finer thread would have helped as well but none to be found in this color.</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Back to the hem. When I originally made the muslin I knew I did not want a full length dress. Below knee was fine but the shirt tail was deep. I moved the hem up before cutting by five inches. I wanted to maintain the shape of the hem and slit look. You can see how I did that <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2023/08/lots-of-sequins-and-fit-mccalls-8406.html">here in this post. </a> I then went on to deal with the edge of the net hem. I spent an afternoon attaching the border lace, about an inch plus wide, by hand, in a very weak gather, just enough to make the curve of the hem. It was hand basted on then machine stitched. Looked pretty enough, but, alas, I had to deal with it again later. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Next was dealing with the zipper, my most challenging situation. I had to transition at the waistline seam from a traditional installation in the bodice to one in the lining that was only in the lining and hidden by the netting so it would still be invisible. Now, I have seen and worked on these often in formal gowns, but there has always been a heavy fluff of gathered tulle or organza to hide the zip in the lining below the waist, easy peasy. I had no fluffy gathers. I wanted to maintain a smooth line from the waist to hem, all the while having access and hiding the zipper in just the lining layer. What's a sewist to do? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFagPWFj6tkryHjoKmIWvEBkObrDJ2yK2yiLaxsTkhX1zCejZrTPp6sxY3R0NOvNyRZWh4c-b4NiIAiSKzwdT3uQi9r55Ajz5617a8o6hPhPfW1pi0l0LuSu9vYt_49-ZVEBTfsSEaN3nUTIL3sAKlZxOnx68ECCi3__kQRgzlyBbPEzlKUFhDDOlwm4/s4688/DSC_0615.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3453" data-original-width="4688" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFagPWFj6tkryHjoKmIWvEBkObrDJ2yK2yiLaxsTkhX1zCejZrTPp6sxY3R0NOvNyRZWh4c-b4NiIAiSKzwdT3uQi9r55Ajz5617a8o6hPhPfW1pi0l0LuSu9vYt_49-ZVEBTfsSEaN3nUTIL3sAKlZxOnx68ECCi3__kQRgzlyBbPEzlKUFhDDOlwm4/w640-h472/DSC_0615.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Very tiny snaps and Fabric Fusion adhesive to the rescue! I installed the invisible zip above the waist as per usual. I then folded the netting out of the way and continued to install the zip in the lining. I just placed my needle back in the zip area on the other side of the netting. Zip installed! Now to hide it.................I searched my notions and found some very tiny black snaps. I tested and found they totally hid in the netting. But they were so small I could not get them to cooperate with my fingers while sewing. Frustration! I used my forceps to hold them and a bit of fabric fusion to place them. I walked away for an hour. I came back and the snaps were stuck just enough for me to easily sew them on. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETl-B2XlW6WirkqnCSk1ohyphenhyphen13qKHcYuByC7L_Mg7JJYfzFSzbhPBnFrkqaDBVovCLE_qkWgYPbIU2b521zjXT2uYDswQ9-kaYiWdRhcH-cLCE8w1Qej7ftJAw8acPIBpUGw0yIjUdl_9S5iAzdyNwZwXHOt8cx19s5CfDFK1CFVsSN-Thd7kIJQiiILo/s6000/DSC_0611.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETl-B2XlW6WirkqnCSk1ohyphenhyphen13qKHcYuByC7L_Mg7JJYfzFSzbhPBnFrkqaDBVovCLE_qkWgYPbIU2b521zjXT2uYDswQ9-kaYiWdRhcH-cLCE8w1Qej7ftJAw8acPIBpUGw0yIjUdl_9S5iAzdyNwZwXHOt8cx19s5CfDFK1CFVsSN-Thd7kIJQiiILo/w640-h426/DSC_0611.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>First, I had cut my seam allowance on the net skirt extra wide to accomodate the zip. I then sewed it shut traditionally with regular stitch length in the seam and long basting stitches in the zipper area. The seam part was pressed open. The zipper part was pressed to the side to make sort of a placket. That is on the right in the picture. I cut a slit between the two. This netting does not ravel.That folded to the side seam will now become the placket and home to 5 teensy snaps. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsSFGQSa-TTbwZd6IWc3fLgHopxPDF8ydoOYiZMn7EOU3efgdkM9jv_1eByua3HJysTROv84-cHmx_DuKGcJ4wmXni1ocTSY0k8JwLRDE0hgGLqIvmtQ4ca4UgluuSlc-vSszCFBLaiJqvIzcDPrANYOi_SYNzMq7kWMcO4gjTW9nTd1ZUahyphenhyphenO17z_zM/s6000/DSC_0616.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsSFGQSa-TTbwZd6IWc3fLgHopxPDF8ydoOYiZMn7EOU3efgdkM9jv_1eByua3HJysTROv84-cHmx_DuKGcJ4wmXni1ocTSY0k8JwLRDE0hgGLqIvmtQ4ca4UgluuSlc-vSszCFBLaiJqvIzcDPrANYOi_SYNzMq7kWMcO4gjTW9nTd1ZUahyphenhyphenO17z_zM/w640-h426/DSC_0616.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>You will need to blow the above pic up to see what's going on. Red arrows point to the glue drying snaps. The rocks hold fabric out of the way. Once dry they were easy to stitch on. I then did this again on the other side with their matching snaps and then we were good to go. You can see it all transitioned smoothly, although it requires some serious bending to reach the little buggers and get them shut. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I tried the dress on now that the zip was in. It flowed smoothly in that seam and I was pleased. I was not pleased with my dress. The length of the hem I had put all the lace on looked frumpy and the slightly ruffled lace edge made it look like lingerie. Hubs totally agreed. I shortened the skirt another 4 inches, no lace ruffle edge and it looked much better. He agreed on that as well. I trust his judgement after all these years. But talk about adding more work. I had to shorten the lining too. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzyvfpZpLu-DzL3jui8gvYmBwPvZpU-0yOpa3Q2UhJhqH357bSW1cbw20dsUN_mhqSJuVvveIQtCGB-B3d8MfyXHtaBk8AgsEgesj4UIVfb3y_yYg6acYKbMmYep040qFGxwy_BefE5SRtLHzmzvXp6V9Ei3V59TtTyGKWL1P98417DMUD-vLwB-TRLM/s2225/DSC_0679.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2225" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzyvfpZpLu-DzL3jui8gvYmBwPvZpU-0yOpa3Q2UhJhqH357bSW1cbw20dsUN_mhqSJuVvveIQtCGB-B3d8MfyXHtaBk8AgsEgesj4UIVfb3y_yYg6acYKbMmYep040qFGxwy_BefE5SRtLHzmzvXp6V9Ei3V59TtTyGKWL1P98417DMUD-vLwB-TRLM/w308-h640/DSC_0679.JPG" width="308" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b>I also discovered, as well suspected, that I needed shoulder pads, just some little skinny ones. My shoulders seem to be drooping with age, a new development in that onward journey. The dolman sleeves really accentuated it. So I got to work. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCx5ChBuFtuSGOvK-FGgyl-26EDPbl3ndACwNwsxbZF5i6ZiABnX9MhBIf522BNxLXn-U1InB5uWsEq6p52RdP2pUCHeLWVNCyxpJUrjPm6yPGYGx9crIbLiyWFQhG26ngc5ag_EN7lF5qG6gSg9pW5JMTztVkccOTLmi3Zi6_V5eTtY9zVltyHe6j6g/s4353/DSC_0624.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3107" data-original-width="4353" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCx5ChBuFtuSGOvK-FGgyl-26EDPbl3ndACwNwsxbZF5i6ZiABnX9MhBIf522BNxLXn-U1InB5uWsEq6p52RdP2pUCHeLWVNCyxpJUrjPm6yPGYGx9crIbLiyWFQhG26ngc5ag_EN7lF5qG6gSg9pW5JMTztVkccOTLmi3Zi6_V5eTtY9zVltyHe6j6g/w640-h456/DSC_0624.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>While I had 1/4 inch pads in my resources, I did not like how they shown thru the dress. I made my own. </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEfxh30Oua9wSNAvN7TuhGyvLxZmQI8YiSqGC6ARP0NsI1OWzUlHuF4yf3csqhaaxjf01AiRZoGK4GCn4ncl9Bicv9Gyf_o3cLKdbHdzaeqCFL-LKenppXstgzXrsOdXL8B5lHKw9RqC9ljgA2D2_KdhxL8paGGbzt0yCTx7_974c4JD7_VpBuhRlgFeQ/s4354/DSC_0625.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3659" data-original-width="4354" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEfxh30Oua9wSNAvN7TuhGyvLxZmQI8YiSqGC6ARP0NsI1OWzUlHuF4yf3csqhaaxjf01AiRZoGK4GCn4ncl9Bicv9Gyf_o3cLKdbHdzaeqCFL-LKenppXstgzXrsOdXL8B5lHKw9RqC9ljgA2D2_KdhxL8paGGbzt0yCTx7_974c4JD7_VpBuhRlgFeQ/w640-h538/DSC_0625.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I measured the dress while wearing it to see how large to make these. I then laid out a layer of Fusi Knit tricot fusible interfacing. I cut a large shape and graduating smaller ones out of batting. I put a straight strip of batting, about an inch wide, across the pad. It did not extend all the way, just built up the middle. The Fusi Knit was then folded over and pressed to the batting sandwich. I then stitched very close to the pinked edge. I took a small tuck in the center of each pad to force the curve. I pinned them to my ham, gave them a good steaming and left them overnight. they made a definite positive difference on how this dress draped on my sloping shoulders. Don't be afraid of thin should pads!</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdDyp-vn2POh98nLpVsicCCyNbfp4jdtaaorF1I3iPGgREX-gHojioyoFm2Cq7G19woWLli3BOtZi4NFQci4U6DsY8u7U8ePndC_jfrO9Mb19DKmLkgTDMbYv0DVyaKKJnX88rqbLMRuy-iUoxFrlhQa6RLn-vtjysxYJvmznA9_nPuy2UieBCkdKYPs/s3660/DSC_0673.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3653" data-original-width="3660" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdDyp-vn2POh98nLpVsicCCyNbfp4jdtaaorF1I3iPGgREX-gHojioyoFm2Cq7G19woWLli3BOtZi4NFQci4U6DsY8u7U8ePndC_jfrO9Mb19DKmLkgTDMbYv0DVyaKKJnX88rqbLMRuy-iUoxFrlhQa6RLn-vtjysxYJvmznA9_nPuy2UieBCkdKYPs/w640-h638/DSC_0673.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This dress was a lot of work. All of that is of my own making and choice. As far as the pattern, here I will share something that I have deliberately held until the end. I found this dress EXTREMELY difficult to get in and out of. I have very narrow shoulders. I used the size zipper recommended. I installed exactly where the dot was for that purpose. It barely got over my shoulders. I have a very narrow torso, you all know that. I can't imagine how anyone else could get in and out of it. If I made another here are my suggestions: </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Run that underarm zipper a good four inches into the lower sleeve seam. I can't see any other way to make it work otherwise. </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Consider making this dress out of a knit. Then you will get the stretch for getting it off and on. </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Last of all, add a center back seam to the neckline as I did, and run the invisible zip to the top as you do have a center back bodice seam to work with. I think this is the best option. </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I love the style of this dress and would consider making it again, possibly in a knit. I like the bias cut of the skirt. If I made it again I would had a triangular godet to the upper sleeve seam, begining at the outer shoulder edge, to make a fuller sleeve. I felt they could use more volume. I definitely recommend the pattern but with these mentioned caveats. </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">******************************************</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> I am on to my next project, the Imby Flowy top. I am starting with a muslin. While digging in my muslin fabric tote, I found this and decided to play with it for my Imby. More to come...........Happy Sewing..............Bunny</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCm3gZHJqpfDX4pZsZQpwzlIvcSA9sobm2XEJUgqRGQe7-RKskZgv2I-pDvBiHalL1ceR4bwOkbGUJlQL0s4dHe7iU-cQympvxL1syO4ttMfeiShipjghyphenhyphenR-0LZg-piC_qphvkpAOaT3AdtU9L3o8LbGFxKnXod_nIQej8J2Fik8yTywTlnWLsRw1UBA/s5962/DSC_0681.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3897" data-original-width="5962" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCm3gZHJqpfDX4pZsZQpwzlIvcSA9sobm2XEJUgqRGQe7-RKskZgv2I-pDvBiHalL1ceR4bwOkbGUJlQL0s4dHe7iU-cQympvxL1syO4ttMfeiShipjghyphenhyphenR-0LZg-piC_qphvkpAOaT3AdtU9L3o8LbGFxKnXod_nIQej8J2Fik8yTywTlnWLsRw1UBA/w640-h418/DSC_0681.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-34949540375001996932023-09-28T14:34:00.004-04:002023-09-29T13:44:26.645-04:00#$!S#%$# It's me. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwHKbC0zFffmOs6oQWPG6nb7qp7XwFYaJllBd1a2SIU1SCfkhI3BBFzSY3PGlF926b8EP0djArKa_WrHI7FGTjM8GC-DIr6QiDs8dkNr3L7rLcWnH-12NoqpJUhmD7qnUT1xWQ2R-bLMnHyxNRFn7FPi1YcV-y2EWBFWgLrXw1hUzBHzWCCrMxg8QSTE/s6000/DSC_0623.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwHKbC0zFffmOs6oQWPG6nb7qp7XwFYaJllBd1a2SIU1SCfkhI3BBFzSY3PGlF926b8EP0djArKa_WrHI7FGTjM8GC-DIr6QiDs8dkNr3L7rLcWnH-12NoqpJUhmD7qnUT1xWQ2R-bLMnHyxNRFn7FPi1YcV-y2EWBFWgLrXw1hUzBHzWCCrMxg8QSTE/w640-h426/DSC_0623.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I cannot tell you how much I detest doing this. The true word is one my mother told me not to ever use, "hate". I hate doing this. It is such a total time waster and there is nothing, nothing pleasureable about, <i>for me. </i> This is not the first PDF I've used. I've used a whole bunch with bags and children's patterns but my adult pattern PDFs are few and far between. It's a like childbirth. It's awful but you do it again, once enough time has lapsed to trick your brain into a redo. Again, <i>for me. </i></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I no longer have a printer. We don't use them often enough and have burnt through two in the last couple of years due to that fact. We are not far from the local library so its easy to run and get things printed there. For whatever reason. when I wanted to print this from my thumb drive, they were not accomodating. I was so itching for the much valued instant gratification PDF lovers enjoy. The next day, I ran into town and Staples. "Can you print this AO size, please?" "What's AO?" was the help I recieved. No one knew what AO paper was. I took my credit card and went over to the copy machine and printed it all out on A4 paper, all while pondering how many trees sacrificed their bark for my long gone instant gratification. Ugh....</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is not a diss on Indies. I order paper patterns from them but this particular pattern only came PDF and I was truly smitten by it. It was FREE, too. This justified my A4 copying but I was not going to waste gas, time and attitude driving around (I was already in town and knew where other print shops were) plus searching online looking for someone to do my copies AO. I went A4. Then, when I actually started to cut and tape, all semblance of kindness and patience left my body. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>What I am smitten by is the <a href="https://www.karmme.com.au/products/karmme-apparel-pattern-download">Imby Flowy Top from Karmme Apparel</a>. It is described by the designer as being not designed by a professional pattern maker and she asks for your kindness and patience. It is not graded and she <i>thinks</i> it will fit sizes 8-14 Australian. I have no clue what that is. No measurements, other than finished are offered. Based on the measurements given, and the fact that I don't take a size 8 AUS, I will just hack at it and remove volume here and there. This little top take 2.75 yards of 45 inch. So once this monster pattern from planet PDF is complete, I will trace to tissue and make it a little more petite friendly. It has MASSIVE amounts of fabric in the design, which is part of the charm, but I do think I need to bring that down before I turn into a parachute. It is a really darling pattern and one that I hope to make this winter in anticipation of our vacation overseas, next summer. I am planning that wardrobe now! </b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>************************************</b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bQMewzTvlJ2N99oSL7kNUkKMd_bORVuGOuBijVaGVHBYupu1k79FFHXg9J8KIXm3AZKQMfTTIXOv8FnY9WAc7z0PVMmhqT9RMbRo1PKuTCjEaB4Wuy9_kBnthGlh9Y3El_Ohb6k7rkGNy5TmeVqdCTmod44nfG-y0mfAx_DbWswaHcQeim74oW9Snmk/s6000/DSC_0619.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bQMewzTvlJ2N99oSL7kNUkKMd_bORVuGOuBijVaGVHBYupu1k79FFHXg9J8KIXm3AZKQMfTTIXOv8FnY9WAc7z0PVMmhqT9RMbRo1PKuTCjEaB4Wuy9_kBnthGlh9Y3El_Ohb6k7rkGNy5TmeVqdCTmod44nfG-y0mfAx_DbWswaHcQeim74oW9Snmk/w426-h640/DSC_0619.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: 700;">Bit by bit I keep picking at my workshop. I redid all my fabrics and cleaned up my shelving. There is nothing on top of them anymore which I like. My wools and bottomweights are on one of two big Rubbermaid 72x24 inch units. I realized too late that my wools were all on the side very close to a lot of bright lighting. I have seen fabric ruined by lighting in retail stores and have a definite fear of it. I refold my fabrics twice a year to prevent it. To prevent it here, I placed two Command hooks at the top of the unit. Then I Put a buttonhole on each end of a width of shirting that I could still use if I really wanted to. Nothing is cut from what it was. It is just hemmed top and bottom. I gathered the top onto a wooden dowel hanging around and slipped the hooks thru the buttonholes. No fading for my dear wools! </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;">**********************</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: 700;">The Wedding Guest dress is complete and I will wear it in two days. I hope to get some good pictures from the wedding. It was quite a project. Take care and Happy Sewing.................Bunny</span></div></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-20027399190897929142023-09-02T16:46:00.004-04:002024-02-16T21:54:44.286-05:00Sewing with Sequins<p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5QddJE4BdGmQIKYHToBQ7ibS9lXRMRyYwMuGcc_tbGhXFT3eaRSSmNiRNKD1EVBosi4MADFh8apQPki2LbdUbLVYlunIRtQC6hxPwD1UFZMIc78t2Qi2vrKFu0vG_OZJJqeUP7rbiNXpa2uEc3TZpJ2bzo8zb6bT7La53Mu8huvYzzK2a6ARuX0RXGk/s4997/DSC_0605.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4997" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5QddJE4BdGmQIKYHToBQ7ibS9lXRMRyYwMuGcc_tbGhXFT3eaRSSmNiRNKD1EVBosi4MADFh8apQPki2LbdUbLVYlunIRtQC6hxPwD1UFZMIc78t2Qi2vrKFu0vG_OZJJqeUP7rbiNXpa2uEc3TZpJ2bzo8zb6bT7La53Mu8huvYzzK2a6ARuX0RXGk/w640-h512/DSC_0605.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">While working on my current project, McCalls 8406, it occurred to me that the fabric used and the techniques required really deserved its own blogpost. I am making this dress from a sequin fabric. The first thing I have learned is that all sequin fabrics are not equal. I am lucky in that the sequined fabric I fell in love with is definitely, in my opinion, one of the easier types to sew. My fabric is a random trail of VERY tiny sequins, also very thin, that are sewn by machine all over a base of netting. It's a bit stronger than tulle but not that heavy net business. Also, and important for ease here, it DOES NOT stretch. Equally important, the design has a fair amount of negative space that is just netting. This is not the fabric of larger sequins that solidly cover a substrate and you find used for mermaid outfits and lovely formal garments. My fabric has a lighter, more ethereal feel but like all sequin fabrics, also has a weighty drape, but not the heaviness of the big sequins. I highly recommend sewing this sort of sequin fabric as you will see ahead. It is simply less problematic. So rule number one is that if you are searching for a sparkly fabric, consider a sequined fabric utilizing smaller sequins in the design and maybe an amount of half negative space with the base fabric. Also being non stretch helps but not mandatory. That just eliminates another factor to deal with. You will need certain supplies to ease your journey. </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LnoE8mnKh0Nsr154LA0psF0y4ejOanxsE9I_ENo_M6m4UlPiyqVYXGn21VSnar4qy8NiFHtXMBtY69u85ad7brg3SZwNYrhwZ1I9tNVqfkxIzDKGwFevmFu20R7xVyJSFJdTuaFYas3p1ZJaGjoYcvf37Q5gmKN2nlTSuemnXN-slrcIn0s5IXDbrV0/s3968/DSC_0585.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3968" data-original-width="2398" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LnoE8mnKh0Nsr154LA0psF0y4ejOanxsE9I_ENo_M6m4UlPiyqVYXGn21VSnar4qy8NiFHtXMBtY69u85ad7brg3SZwNYrhwZ1I9tNVqfkxIzDKGwFevmFu20R7xVyJSFJdTuaFYas3p1ZJaGjoYcvf37Q5gmKN2nlTSuemnXN-slrcIn0s5IXDbrV0/w386-h640/DSC_0585.JPG" width="386" /></a></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b>to indicate scale </b></div></span><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Supplies needed:</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Old junk scissors. Do NOT use your good scissors for cutting this fabric or a rotary cutter. It will be fine. I am using my junk scissors that I bought in a bin for a dollar 30 years ago. They cut the fabric just fine. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Wood clapper. You CANNOT press your sequined fabric. It will tarnish, lose it's color and/or melt. But, you can "faux" press it and I will show you how with a clapper and a few other tricks. </span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Seam roll. I used a length of wooden pole. Worked great to lay the sewn seams on and not crush while "faux" pressing. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIatd_Z52U7c93I9QjZG84q_ggtNsMqhVLIlg2Kgxj8ojZCXrC2gx22v87VmbX-2wGqr0yOvIvO9TKnwZzC-eg1a2P2fRFFAbCUpiPEW4QNgH-skBWvDqL7RipsTmK0qIdv91cVnFEqp52xkDXx980upndkob9CZdZwPfKKS9ThVH0njqJMkSWWX6kELs/s5260/DSC_0593.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3994" data-original-width="5260" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIatd_Z52U7c93I9QjZG84q_ggtNsMqhVLIlg2Kgxj8ojZCXrC2gx22v87VmbX-2wGqr0yOvIvO9TKnwZzC-eg1a2P2fRFFAbCUpiPEW4QNgH-skBWvDqL7RipsTmK0qIdv91cVnFEqp52xkDXx980upndkob9CZdZwPfKKS9ThVH0njqJMkSWWX6kELs/w640-h486/DSC_0593.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Brayer. Same as the clapper but with the addition that it will crush the little gems together at the seam line effortlessly and they will lie beautifully flat. I did not remove any sequins in the seams for the project other than the zipper area. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Straight stitch foot, one hole. This was best for making the 1/4 inch width for the Hong Kong seams . </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* See thru foot. Used for general stitching- s l o w l y .</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Silk thread for basting. It slides in and out of the the sequins and stitches so easily. Very easily removable. I used it to block baste the sequin fabric to the lining, working flat on a table to prevent bubbles. </span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Regular thread for sewing. You can use lighter weight thread if you get the right color. You need a good match here . </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Glasses for eye protection when sewing and cutting. Sequins go everywhere and I have read of them flying into people's eyes when cutting and sewing. Don't risk it. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Paintbrush, soft and at least two inches wide. Great for brushing up all the sequin drops into a pile and putting in the trash. They will fall off your fabric and reproduce as you sleep. Clean up after every session. The less sequins hanging around the less opportunity for accidents. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Sticky lint roller. Use for a quick cleanup. You will be finding sequins everywhere but they are not bad like glitter. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Oak tag or manila folders. You will need two. They will be used to make your pressing jigs. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Hand needles for basting. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">*Microtex needle, 12, for sewing. Halfway thru the garment and no broken needles yet and still sharp. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>\Sequin Myths that did not apply here:</b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You will break tons of needles. Did not happen to me. I am still on the same happy needle halfway thru my garment. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You must remove all the sequins from all the seam allowances before sewing. Nope, I haven't removed a one. I only plan to remove where the invisible zipper will be placed. These tiny sequins are so thin and small that they don't get in the way and they don't scratch you either, at least not me. I do have sensitive, thin skin too! I also got validation on this from a couple youtubes. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You can't iron the fabric. Well, you can't, but you can get around that. Make sure your lining is nicely pressed before starting. Keep your pieces in a flat position to eliminate further wrinkling. Treat them kindly. I keep mine in a half sheet pan. Do hand work flat on a table. I will show you how to get a flat seam with the ironing jigs. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Sequin Must Do<i>s</i></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><i>* </i>You must make samples of pressing before starting, with and without lining. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You must make samples of stitching. Using a zigzag of .5 wide and 2.5 long gave a much better result than a straight stitch for seams. I actually forgot to take off my 1/4 inch foot from doing my HK seams and found out that this single hole foot will do a .5 zig zag so I left it on to do all of my HK seams. Worked great. I used the wider see thru foot for all of the rest of the stitching. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You must interface linings as needed, definitely not the netting. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You must use the right tools and rules to get a decent, flat pressed looking seam. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You MUST sew s l o w l y, every step of the way. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* You must, unless you remove all those sequins, treat your seam allowances to a finish. I did Hong Kong seams on mine out of the same Ambiance lining. Don't ditch stitch the HK seams. Topstitch instead. HK seams will cover any edges of the sequins that could irritate and they finish any loose threads. This way you won't have sequins falling off on the dance floor. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">"Faux Pressing" Sequins</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Jig #1</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVB6S0vu9qYfdIZ3Qt4ECiJ7eGcv7uCthmldWgi8PXE8ZngoU3yUuqwfocPBItnbTe9Oie8-7QIhvEEBqnDeyrLPNpfCKxkgD44ksW0OdUT57g6qBxjm6r3it_q0RXXBj9ne8oF7MQeOPnuRDN2HQuCnC2wFVGYIgfOmpYcejkaqYR5f-01NzSsPG4Iw/s4990/DSC_0591.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3486" data-original-width="4990" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVB6S0vu9qYfdIZ3Qt4ECiJ7eGcv7uCthmldWgi8PXE8ZngoU3yUuqwfocPBItnbTe9Oie8-7QIhvEEBqnDeyrLPNpfCKxkgD44ksW0OdUT57g6qBxjm6r3it_q0RXXBj9ne8oF7MQeOPnuRDN2HQuCnC2wFVGYIgfOmpYcejkaqYR5f-01NzSsPG4Iw/w640-h448/DSC_0591.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Take your first manila folder, just as it is being held in your hands and putting down and measure down from the fold about 5 inches. Cut on that line. You can see my cut is uneven. That's OK. You want the fold, not the cut line. Here you can see where I have sewn a bias strip to the fabric for a Hong Kong seam. I need to press that strip away from the fashion fabric. BUTT the folded edge of the manila folder right up to the stitched line of the fabric strip. Hover your iron, set up for steam, over the folder area ONLY, for about 3 seconds and move away fast. Quickly slide away your jig and hand press down the fabric strip. Take your clapper and press down and away and hold it for a few seconds. When you remove the clapper you will see the lining pressed away and nice and flat. The double thick folder paper helps prevent the steam/heat from damaging your sequins. Slide the folder up the seam and continue pressing the strip away from your garment until done. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Next for your HK seams you will need to wrap the strip around the the edge and pin in the ditch securely. I used silk pins as they handled the sequins really well. Go to the machine. and EDGE STITCH the strip fold on your seam allowance as opposed to the usual ditch stitching done on HK seams. When done remove the excess seam allowance on the back. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Anytime you need to press an area, butt the manila folder, doubled like here, up to the edge to not let any heat/steam heat anywhere else on the garment. At no time touch the garment. Just hover with 2 or 3 seconds of steam and get away fast. </span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wsBPLnmKR4FgMkyPdwg1EX3bQMF11aoHUtdTdhdO8CtH5TUu6LofcE1P-gy5crwoOH6cI3x04vmcqPU-ltKlrQ5PH2TjDp-uUpso-HEkmURB06B_8n5dnVCfQfqOnWrJGU9Ob8uTlB6A_w51NOY9GSXxdRmsDG2wf0Jdzv4L11BscL73suy0HkImqd8/s6000/DSC_0588.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wsBPLnmKR4FgMkyPdwg1EX3bQMF11aoHUtdTdhdO8CtH5TUu6LofcE1P-gy5crwoOH6cI3x04vmcqPU-ltKlrQ5PH2TjDp-uUpso-HEkmURB06B_8n5dnVCfQfqOnWrJGU9Ob8uTlB6A_w51NOY9GSXxdRmsDG2wf0Jdzv4L11BscL73suy0HkImqd8/w640-h426/DSC_0588.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Here are some seams in the bodice all put together, shoulder and back, below. </span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLoTxfW-1ONprGXfwhY52BqVq5lq0dY09RAE64im6ChaT_eHaR2talTtocaOGol35ZHOLyM-BFfjwKmSLxkiAl-v8BVjEomk_eGwaGVsFYXdqo39OK4sD8opo4TGGSA31-eX77RhLuzSOf5kga8RVhzrTCvBUi4FVgNnqPT92bIcz8UGfHvRqWF9q32o/s6000/DSC_0603.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLoTxfW-1ONprGXfwhY52BqVq5lq0dY09RAE64im6ChaT_eHaR2talTtocaOGol35ZHOLyM-BFfjwKmSLxkiAl-v8BVjEomk_eGwaGVsFYXdqo39OK4sD8opo4TGGSA31-eX77RhLuzSOf5kga8RVhzrTCvBUi4FVgNnqPT92bIcz8UGfHvRqWF9q32o/w640-h426/DSC_0603.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Jig #2</span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8mRri-oofLx4FcDcduVtv5ehnw7PZdkUf-EttLQp_phJV67CMAzgpxysHsFWYLTUPGD6vAZJUfyd8xLRcIA-RBRZU_i9ub1GhJdB_MZmTc5jIs0YN9vB0HAoETla2eE4k6Fug1fkDeZaxnGNDwNNR68LmFwMt_2zhZt01YtaY5OlDp0VmZdUmiWI83w/s6000/DSC_0594.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8mRri-oofLx4FcDcduVtv5ehnw7PZdkUf-EttLQp_phJV67CMAzgpxysHsFWYLTUPGD6vAZJUfyd8xLRcIA-RBRZU_i9ub1GhJdB_MZmTc5jIs0YN9vB0HAoETla2eE4k6Fug1fkDeZaxnGNDwNNR68LmFwMt_2zhZt01YtaY5OlDp0VmZdUmiWI83w/w640-h426/DSC_0594.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Above, on the left you can see the seam before being treated with Jig #2 method and on the right after #2 method. We will use the brayer, the seam roll , the clapper and the jig and iron again. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLDJ8mfbytZdHWBsPj_oxsA2GtG4CqVNkgWVbvmfSRLJoDQvJlnEonqp1CIhA3YLleVheISCqFKuQitnMwo09rsBLfkvOcK-uZK4NSP1Zsoe3ZmXPaLcnXz95l6i0qqjjo7qMk0yZdKN9XBSWJQUV8NsBBiVlqkxnbOfYdRqoO0b26TNTb3_1aJVYrCo/s6000/DSC_0600.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLDJ8mfbytZdHWBsPj_oxsA2GtG4CqVNkgWVbvmfSRLJoDQvJlnEonqp1CIhA3YLleVheISCqFKuQitnMwo09rsBLfkvOcK-uZK4NSP1Zsoe3ZmXPaLcnXz95l6i0qqjjo7qMk0yZdKN9XBSWJQUV8NsBBiVlqkxnbOfYdRqoO0b26TNTb3_1aJVYrCo/w640-h426/DSC_0600.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">To make Jig #2, take your second folder and fold it as it's meant to be and get out your rotary cutter and ruler or scissors. Doesn't matter which. Accuracy not too important here. About 4 inches from either edge cut a fat eighth inch away from the fold to make a long slit. Do a little short cut on the ends. Now, if you open your folder up you have a long slit roughly a 1/4 inch plus wide. As you use your folder, use it folding down to make things easier. Place your garment. seams open, wrong side up first on your pressing stick/seam roll. The picture above is for when I turned over and did the same process to the right side of the garment. You will do both sides. Get your brayer or clapper handy. Place your Jig Slot over your seam line, centering it in the slit. Holding the jig securely, once again, HOVER your iron about an inch above for about 3 seconds of steam/heat and get away. Immediately grab the brayer and roll over the slit with pressure or use the clapper. I prefer the brayer here. Take your time. Gently remove the jig. Admire your seam, give it a little contented pat and move your way up the seam with the same process. Again. Press your seam open first on the wrong side, then flip it over and do the right side as you see above. The brayer forces the sequins to mesh together and really hold the seam flat. Don't be afraid to press hard. </span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic1lZBD5RG3odqTc-gdTnXgk5LOnzBxNE5wi9MfQJKO_hBlNUVix9TYp3q_1G44F2yytVM23qXW30mfSaQhWOSvxT3CYi67hV6zBM1WWTgCLAzTXqTz_Xzc9g1IBPvdhvBxVmaFcqiyODxMPIywoGwos4L90CaJE9NTHCB18aGw_pqjeJopnHT_ELOBOc/s5029/DSC_0597.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3987" data-original-width="5029" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic1lZBD5RG3odqTc-gdTnXgk5LOnzBxNE5wi9MfQJKO_hBlNUVix9TYp3q_1G44F2yytVM23qXW30mfSaQhWOSvxT3CYi67hV6zBM1WWTgCLAzTXqTz_Xzc9g1IBPvdhvBxVmaFcqiyODxMPIywoGwos4L90CaJE9NTHCB18aGw_pqjeJopnHT_ELOBOc/w640-h508/DSC_0597.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Here we go, above, all nice and smooth! Whew! </span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">When I went shopping for my fabric for this dress there was soooo much to choose from that would have fit the description of small sequins with a good amount of negative space, really lovely fabrics. I have even seen some beautiful ones at Joanns that would fit the description nicely as well. So, these fabrics are not hard to find and you cetainly get the wow factor. Many are more subdued than this one, lots of options, colors, etc. If you pick a pattern with few pieces, details, etc, and that is easy these days, you can make a garment that I think will be amazing. <i> </i>I hope my jigs and suggestions will help you along. I welcome comments. May your sewing sparkle!....Bunny</span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-76414427339141263162023-08-24T11:08:00.000-04:002023-08-24T11:08:53.525-04:00Lots of Sequins and Fit! McCalls 8406<p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCqGcYsSEjMumxBG6UYpsi0EBjgsovs_t4l7Xo73AcpYJdZhq4Lk52dnoPpQLRTb9in9jdDqV59pkxmU6s9xccdaogTnOATOzvxG-XIZfPHH1zSSt3-RDun7eqhVbTmlTVVXcGMHb0mHpg5S52G2Qu1GGU5_VaUMZUAONYJ76TY68pvVpLodcCb0x740/s4000/DSC_0545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2964" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCqGcYsSEjMumxBG6UYpsi0EBjgsovs_t4l7Xo73AcpYJdZhq4Lk52dnoPpQLRTb9in9jdDqV59pkxmU6s9xccdaogTnOATOzvxG-XIZfPHH1zSSt3-RDun7eqhVbTmlTVVXcGMHb0mHpg5S52G2Qu1GGU5_VaUMZUAONYJ76TY68pvVpLodcCb0x740/w474-h640/DSC_0545.JPG" width="474" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is turning into a true couture adventure, thanks to the lovely fabric I've chosen. There is just no <i>simple</i> way around sewing with these tiny sequins. I did a lot of research and will make lots more samples. I will be sampling seam treatments, pressing possibilities (likely none), hem finishes and more, all before the real sewing hits the fabric. </b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnkJ-Bvvg_-Me35Rx89qG45pe-5p1Sg09GmTjHMH_BTWIo6DIxF2ccPyfbIAoVCnvLekGFTtkqroY_N39tGyKNoBOP-b4DUi9IO0GVMjkwgHJzSjSM_J5TAbif_HOYiMFkj-lh5InB1cDHskfMIFmZ-1Mktc5FjUD8uGSv0urNTNJf4qtsRV2TBdjIUJQ/s4990/DSC_0540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4990" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnkJ-Bvvg_-Me35Rx89qG45pe-5p1Sg09GmTjHMH_BTWIo6DIxF2ccPyfbIAoVCnvLekGFTtkqroY_N39tGyKNoBOP-b4DUi9IO0GVMjkwgHJzSjSM_J5TAbif_HOYiMFkj-lh5InB1cDHskfMIFmZ-1Mktc5FjUD8uGSv0urNTNJf4qtsRV2TBdjIUJQ/w640-h514/DSC_0540.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I finished my muslin journey after three toiles. The second toile showed my over reaction and was too small and pulling everywhere. For the third toile, I took a simple approach but I did learn something with my second effort. Adding the skirt made a huge difference. I discovered I actually could wear a bias skirt. The weight of the skirt pulled the bodice down and the bust actually looked quite good. I realized what the designer was trying to achieve here. There is a deliberate effort to skim the bust, not fit it snugly as one would expect, but as the fabric skims over the bust and flows into the bias movement of the skirt it really all works together. It is a fresh look and I love it. It has a minimizing effect on the bust, a flattering one. If that is a goal for you, try this pattern.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The pics here are from the third toile. The fabric is from two <u>very</u> thin, well worn sheets with NO body to them at all. My lining, Ambiance, is probably just as loosey goosey but the sequined netting definitely has structure and that should make a difference. It will be a mystery to see how it turns out. The neckline here is not interefaced and will be in the finished garment. I cut the skirt and lining on the bias as the pattern indicates. The lace netting has very little grain of any sort so it will interesting to see if I get any lovely bias effect. I also was careful of the nap, as it seems sequins have a nap, like velvets. This is the first time in my life I have referred to a personal bias cut garment as lovely. I still have memories of some frightful failures when I was heavier and curvier. It this comes out well, I think I may be on to something my aging body can really enjoy and play with.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>On the above pic you will see an arrow pointing at a red line. This is the hemline I will use. It is an exaggerated shirtail hemline and will be five inches higher. In the top picture you see an issue with the collar. It is made from one wide, long strip of bias fabric that wraps around the neck. I believe that it wrinkles because the direction of the bias changes as it goes around the neck. I actually had this same issue on a different pattern so it made me think twice. I added a center back seam to the final neckband in the opposite bias grain. It will be interfaced and hopefully that will take care of that wrinkle that would not go away on any of the three toiles. Also on the top pic you will see an arrow pointing at the underarm area. It is droopy here. A petite tuck across the chest takes care of that. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>How did I petite/shorten my curvy bias skirt hem?</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2aOsAhvlqkDqeMDzxOwvz20eFV0BThozSNhqThJ5RJfDlNyXtf3aIBgukmOWxKLaRS0XJAj7JILIkxfWp67AS0A8AFOKgCCgB15soIquSb0Jxs9r-HOcZxXtFViMEIqjHnjus4gUaH81G2EdsveGfS6Kgf_kb6mX2kuS4e777cZ_Y0J3m3Dhi5BFYKY/s6000/DSC_0558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix2aOsAhvlqkDqeMDzxOwvz20eFV0BThozSNhqThJ5RJfDlNyXtf3aIBgukmOWxKLaRS0XJAj7JILIkxfWp67AS0A8AFOKgCCgB15soIquSb0Jxs9r-HOcZxXtFViMEIqjHnjus4gUaH81G2EdsveGfS6Kgf_kb6mX2kuS4e777cZ_Y0J3m3Dhi5BFYKY/w640-h426/DSC_0558.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>The first thing I did was trace off the bottom of the skirts, View B, front and back. I then cut the tracing out.</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJUB-YKH-Op3d5ClO_7am9Cy1nHa4P1V0b5KOkco6260_bZyb5pd4VDp9RIIg-bMbwrfPmypnQS-rb3bIRSpMiBp7Baxy506IlYyOWt8NYpLkJAueHzkiWlUUjT4uDYrWPIPAOAJA4tV48xRPxZDc-OKgehPcvFrle9JYTjoDC9NRhr488uaK1oPqM5mU/s6000/DSC_0568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJUB-YKH-Op3d5ClO_7am9Cy1nHa4P1V0b5KOkco6260_bZyb5pd4VDp9RIIg-bMbwrfPmypnQS-rb3bIRSpMiBp7Baxy506IlYyOWt8NYpLkJAueHzkiWlUUjT4uDYrWPIPAOAJA4tV48xRPxZDc-OKgehPcvFrle9JYTjoDC9NRhr488uaK1oPqM5mU/w640-h426/DSC_0568.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>On the tracing it was important to have the bias grain marked as well as the center back line and the horizontal line. Once this was established I slid this up five inches from the original pattern hemline. I pinned down the pattern along the center line while I worked. I then went to the upper corners and lined them up five inches higher than the original at the side seams and pinned my way across using the original lines in the pattern for help. This left excess fabric at the center which I gently moved toward the center and hand pressed into a tuck.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePHIpkbKKeLZYrWEBJIxqKCRF7BrPeJYHIiiRHVxH3XaDxlgBaaa4NZjhFe32fxXvPOSu4b1MVomQN-uBqQDc9WbxeC0N6kf7h8DIXqwD1B6knxHmgw8zI319YEi_LkDRc-IaxwTsO3OYeIaUbpOfCWntcupI5d5fuSrZtSY31btWsAMASNURook-QeA/s5315/DSC_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5315" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePHIpkbKKeLZYrWEBJIxqKCRF7BrPeJYHIiiRHVxH3XaDxlgBaaa4NZjhFe32fxXvPOSu4b1MVomQN-uBqQDc9WbxeC0N6kf7h8DIXqwD1B6knxHmgw8zI319YEi_LkDRc-IaxwTsO3OYeIaUbpOfCWntcupI5d5fuSrZtSY31btWsAMASNURook-QeA/w482-h640/DSC_0571.JPG" width="482" /></a></div><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>That tuck was evenly folded along the center back/front line. At the top of this picture you will see the two darts I have drawn in. I may do gathers there instead based on my research, better for the sequins. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbRR7ccdMYTtiHdsPG_aKQ6OsHEyzjKpQ4AJ5Dn8oMxxmw1rje4tJWv-LVLd96bu6bl6KinkTXe_w4Rp9saMF_bOCpY5kgFowHZk_dxk2L9FJKNfy--3murbV_BgDv61HvfTV4Dhe2-vhBAMhjPAIpH0U-1jxCvCv-r6hdb8TjzFcmQqR6YTx3KtcBII/s6000/DSC_0579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbRR7ccdMYTtiHdsPG_aKQ6OsHEyzjKpQ4AJ5Dn8oMxxmw1rje4tJWv-LVLd96bu6bl6KinkTXe_w4Rp9saMF_bOCpY5kgFowHZk_dxk2L9FJKNfy--3murbV_BgDv61HvfTV4Dhe2-vhBAMhjPAIpH0U-1jxCvCv-r6hdb8TjzFcmQqR6YTx3KtcBII/w640-h426/DSC_0579.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></span></p>As far as couture, this is how I am cutting things out: First, I set up my net on a padded roll in the direction of the nap I would use, smooth feel down, like velvet. I could cut my pieces in the proper direction directly off the roll. But, first, I cut out all of the Ambiance lining fabric. It will be used as a classic underlining, treating it and the fashion fabric as one unit for the bodice. </b></span><b> In the skirt it will float freely. Then I <u>block cut</u> the first pattern piece of sequin net, which from now on I will just refer to as the net, in block form, leaving about an inch plus margin all around and pinning my grainline. I laid this on top of the cut out bodice underlining piece, right sides up, matching and pinning grain lines. I could easily see the outline of the underlining fabric, heretofore called the Ambiance, under the net. With grainlines matched, I used fine, long, glass head silk pins to pin closely all around the borders of the two fabric pieces. I pinned them together about 5/8ths inch away from the edge of the Ambiance, lots of pins. These two bias pieces were now officially laying very flat and happy. I then took silk thread and basted the two pieces together just this side of the stitching lines. I used 1/4 inch stitches, smaller than my usual basting. The silk slid in and out so easily so no problem with future removal. I will block baste all of the pieces in this manner. After that I will machine stay stitch just inside the stitching line, all around each pattern piece. This is absolutely necessary to control the sequins from becoming undone and falling off the dress, leaving threads behind as a memory. Yikes! The net will be trimmed back to the cut edge of the Ambiance and the sequins cut back and picked off.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7Ga6FTgjvZyCQzARmaWi0wp2HUhzi7qbSLH6lF94iCc8x5UCHbLDnrxQm0j2gNnQnrufYeqPKr7npIF7MgEEigLmLP8VfezfVAoA6jOPhz1id3T7wiU9tAEyPogYzEsd_-s_mvVyaNA_7mM6oL_LTgWNihGnxxVzwU1rb-s9qguV9uBu3pCCSXUgBhs/s5209/DSC_0585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3968" data-original-width="5209" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7Ga6FTgjvZyCQzARmaWi0wp2HUhzi7qbSLH6lF94iCc8x5UCHbLDnrxQm0j2gNnQnrufYeqPKr7npIF7MgEEigLmLP8VfezfVAoA6jOPhz1id3T7wiU9tAEyPogYzEsd_-s_mvVyaNA_7mM6oL_LTgWNihGnxxVzwU1rb-s9qguV9uBu3pCCSXUgBhs/w640-h488/DSC_0585.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />Thank you to Claire Shaeffer, for teaching me to cross my corners when basting, instead of attempting to turn corners or just miss them. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This process will be done to each piece of the garment before starting to sew together the garment. Before sewing together the dress, I need to think about seam finishes. There is an underarm invisible zipper involved! This is all going to take some time! Bear with me as I take you along for the ride. I figure a couple of days for all of this prep. Till then................Happy Sewing, Bunny</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgppVxbd-_XbqshSlWv_DBAf_k6W7qqWOsdcnsuQ1LPgchlDNKK6J6Ux3IXxeY4Yfy9hoPL2KPJ4KFGbmL4XbIl8l_6Bt2bn9mHnihPKmOMheN-zTe63VTdDOX2TdOtT7mHaMFw_BUm0gm1zRxt6_DnHJXSRAcI9NGnxy-V7RaG2G-ZF-STmjuIRB3DqjY/s6000/DSC_0448.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgppVxbd-_XbqshSlWv_DBAf_k6W7qqWOsdcnsuQ1LPgchlDNKK6J6Ux3IXxeY4Yfy9hoPL2KPJ4KFGbmL4XbIl8l_6Bt2bn9mHnihPKmOMheN-zTe63VTdDOX2TdOtT7mHaMFw_BUm0gm1zRxt6_DnHJXSRAcI9NGnxy-V7RaG2G-ZF-STmjuIRB3DqjY/w640-h426/DSC_0448.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Two shopping bags of cotton and linen scraps for our local Freecycle. May they find a happy home ;)</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-26161058992359750362023-08-16T17:43:00.006-04:002023-08-17T08:36:01.121-04:00Vogue 1873, just a NO.<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFyrF6Dk2-3DAzsMBdmPqvT_VEFwsNkRIjE8SRLpFb_8R7uhjXxd3LeW8gj63UQkU2Ow99vCLQQ4109cgpwiRIUdPI1eJdUAs3bJo-Tpan5qLwJWrvmcDmgZoSmOsMBabMzzREaeSOJLdVC9bHXqaC3HRcnCLzzUkoSy7ozOLabP3yQn3G_yPEdfF0HM/s3299/DSC_0519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3299" data-original-width="2611" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFyrF6Dk2-3DAzsMBdmPqvT_VEFwsNkRIjE8SRLpFb_8R7uhjXxd3LeW8gj63UQkU2Ow99vCLQQ4109cgpwiRIUdPI1eJdUAs3bJo-Tpan5qLwJWrvmcDmgZoSmOsMBabMzzREaeSOJLdVC9bHXqaC3HRcnCLzzUkoSy7ozOLabP3yQn3G_yPEdfF0HM/w506-h640/DSC_0519.JPG" width="506" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I do not like these pants. I do not like this pattern. This is why:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8LbfSl8Qt-4pETwC2_6efpyA2X956R_OntICAUdKe6diaIN0gWaoPq4Psf-XkLzmC2hVzIq7ex5wINzLWl1QPWS9BfLKbED9D3H-ruSah_eCX0Ng3u6D--kbk9rEn782MK7Oe9dJu_blun3yZISGpqK-OgYjop6EgL4qfKS0Dt09ILFBUuh5nHL9S58/s640/DSC_0484.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="538" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8LbfSl8Qt-4pETwC2_6efpyA2X956R_OntICAUdKe6diaIN0gWaoPq4Psf-XkLzmC2hVzIq7ex5wINzLWl1QPWS9BfLKbED9D3H-ruSah_eCX0Ng3u6D--kbk9rEn782MK7Oe9dJu_blun3yZISGpqK-OgYjop6EgL4qfKS0Dt09ILFBUuh5nHL9S58/w538-h640/DSC_0484.JPG" width="538" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is Vogue 1873. I did View B, the straight legged version. Both have paperbag waists, pleats to make that happen, sashes, belt loops, side seam pockets and faced fly zippers. I've made several wide legged pants with pronounced waistbands over the past year and they all worked out rather well. I thought this version would join that group. Uh, no, but, first the pattern. This looks like a pretty straightforward design. Vogue could not have made it any more complicated. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">As a veteran sewist who has learned many things the hard way, I read ALL the pattern instructions twice before even cutting out the fabric. Once I did cut everything out, taking extra care with grain as I always do, I immediately went to marking. There is a lot of marking on this pattern as anyone who has worked with pleats can tell you. I did it all on the wrong side of the fabric, my usual habit unless told otherwise. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnl1bd5INyA78p3-vqvzykjYXts_3Hkm7HWd_3ytXUPr4e9v4sVgHvKD98qP5cztaXWKB9Sug56LXHyCWUTtQaLvKtAsREzKn_rOQ6FnLvcZB4dS-KSvKDU0p-Selne2q3Wj5M8HKKtQGGGByDQjRo4jMqxa2pWtErFJKBqRCJlNzgwomqtuAYIfEXp4Q/s3363/DSC_0513.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3363" data-original-width="2508" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnl1bd5INyA78p3-vqvzykjYXts_3Hkm7HWd_3ytXUPr4e9v4sVgHvKD98qP5cztaXWKB9Sug56LXHyCWUTtQaLvKtAsREzKn_rOQ6FnLvcZB4dS-KSvKDU0p-Selne2q3Wj5M8HKKtQGGGByDQjRo4jMqxa2pWtErFJKBqRCJlNzgwomqtuAYIfEXp4Q/w478-h640/DSC_0513.JPG" width="478" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I assumed that the waist would involve a small hem all around but not so. It is a 2 inch or so fold of fabric that you make while flat that covers up all the markings that the instructions told you to do at the beginning. All the pleating and darting is done with the two layers of fabric together, basically on the right side upside down if you are sewing on the inside of the pants. Whatever, I had to remark it all and it made for a bulky waist as well . The fly installation is also confusing. Just good luck with that. I am still not clear on how the flaps of the fold work in there but I did get a nice clean finish in the end. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">When all done I made the sash and tried it on with the sash which I thought I would like. It made for too much volume around the middle on top of my hips. It looked awful with the sash. If you make this pattern, do a mock sash before you waste your time making one. A trim leather belt improved the look a lot. You have to fuss a bit to get it all to lay and stay right, another negative for the pattern design. Do you really want to fuss with that every time you need to hit the Ladie's Room?</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YPMgpyxrkqkcq0QRVtYn3t8RZzsna9Jt_OSsyQTL_cLM_wtDRPWheF-TTRnzWrvLh9rYlWjVYGIy9uCI6RpKtVArAxBKC34Y43inZHJdeJIy5BDs1Z5RA5cUgSzCQnV0-qBSMAfLbnhIquW7RYqvG2Cv4clFoBCl3Y3TyZbo35aVdkWVckRVFvGXcx0/s4000/DSC_0523.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3607" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YPMgpyxrkqkcq0QRVtYn3t8RZzsna9Jt_OSsyQTL_cLM_wtDRPWheF-TTRnzWrvLh9rYlWjVYGIy9uCI6RpKtVArAxBKC34Y43inZHJdeJIy5BDs1Z5RA5cUgSzCQnV0-qBSMAfLbnhIquW7RYqvG2Cv4clFoBCl3Y3TyZbo35aVdkWVckRVFvGXcx0/w578-h640/DSC_0523.JPG" width="578" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The fabric I used is one of my absolute favorites. It's the only fabric I hoard and keep a steady supply of. It is Kaufmann's Essex Linen/Cotton cross dyed blend. I just could never sew enough of this. I now feel I have wasted it here but alas, I will wear these for more functional, hard working times around the house and feel good that they are in my favorite fabric. No complaints on that at all. I made the pockets from a panel of quilting cotton, nice and thin. Why am I standing like this? To show you how deep the pockets are on me. They end way down my thigh, too low. They also tend to make the front pleats on the pants puff out, not a great look. I should have used my five foot tall brain before installing them. To me, one who does not like pockets, they seem like huge pockets. I am going to sew them shut and cut them off. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: x-large;">Construction:</b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Direct quote from pattern: "Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue." I did and then they did not completely show when the waist hem was folded over them before stitching said darts and pleats in. The pleated waist band and darts are not stitched in until the pockets and faced fly zipper are completely done. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>ETA: If I made these again, I would eliminate that big foldover of fabric and just do a 1/4 inch hem at the very top of the pleats at the area of the fold. It would make these pants simpler to make and far less bulky. I believe it would also be more in line with a lightweight summer pant as shown. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">On to the fly - This is a fly with fly facings, plural. I don't think my husband has any pants with double fly facings on each side of the zipper. But, hold on, it gets even thicker! The facings are completely interfaced. The right facing is two layers of fabric, one of which is interfaced, sewn WS together and turned. The left facing is one big layer, folded and totally interfaced so two layers of interfacing, all sewn, WS together and turned. All of this backs the zipper installation. Just way too bulky for what is really a casual pair of summer pants, overkill, IMO. It makes for some difficulty at the very bottom of the fly with all that bulk. I sewed my waist hem in by hand around these facings as I couldn't quite get what was wanted in the pattern. The pattern did recommend "slipstitching" the upper edge of the right fly to the pants, but the picture was quite confusing. I moved on. </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The crotch seam and the fly zip were all complete no pleats, darts, waistline yet. Next is the pockets. I did my own thing and the whole time thought they would be too long for my short legs. They were. There was no recommendation to tape the pockets. I did. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27IATuba9kXwn78Jv02l9WcPQ2WmZF5iYtZEMQWfI0C2z1gqdG039ckcQL1dyh_8KtIUKocngHFUeNkyfLvZMp1oUZ8KcuFIdawpP6T8bKZ_YU8UJsyUAqqfITlrZ2LzZVmLDXqsWoMbA01o5hL47gAaBEwJP3ySLvF-pVA0MFSlcEAEUHZRgG30MueU/s6000/DSC_0439.JPG" style="font-size: large; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27IATuba9kXwn78Jv02l9WcPQ2WmZF5iYtZEMQWfI0C2z1gqdG039ckcQL1dyh_8KtIUKocngHFUeNkyfLvZMp1oUZ8KcuFIdawpP6T8bKZ_YU8UJsyUAqqfITlrZ2LzZVmLDXqsWoMbA01o5hL47gAaBEwJP3ySLvF-pVA0MFSlcEAEUHZRgG30MueU/w640-h426/DSC_0439.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I like to add a strip of the garment fabric to the side of the pocket that will show when the hands go in as you can see here. Then I securely stitch it to the pocket bag. The more public side of the pocket, where your hand goes, will show the strip and the panel print. It's white on the back. You can see I used selvedge from the garment fabric to stay the pocket opening, my own effort, not the pattern's idea. What you see above will be flipped over and become the inside of the pocket once it is stitched to the pocket and front leg. This is the back leg. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>One thing this pattern does is suggest a lot of is hand basting and I did like that. They have you hand baste down the waist hem fold and then you start making the darts and pleats. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Last but not least, you make and apply the belt loops. Ignore the pattern placement for this. Try on your pants and decide for yourself the best place to install them. The placement, if you follow the directions, will give you a totally flat belt loop. I realized the foolishness of that when I tried to get the two layered five inch wide sash thru them. I unstitched one end of my loops, pushed them up to make a bit of space in the loop and redid them. So, don't follow the markings on the loops unless you want flat belt loops. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The pattern simply suggests you stitch through the belt loops. I did a fine zigzag thru them, top and bottom. I also did that on the top and bottom of the pockets and the zipper, sort of a hefty bar tack. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bkN5q68FecD1zlh6MaOfW2-gtxpBNG6A-3kMRkEoDmSjxwpIOrHozs5Nmrzreuukpag7MBRU2ow8S1fGz1UpHl5CsykmdyZK3Lr0__jLLZ-rU_B04YnOIScrLZJ5X6iE2M9FeJICQk7pb8zV6XaWwBmiUYH3UbOQK4m9lg10n0recV2cUM3Tl__swwI/s3903/DSC_0527.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3903" data-original-width="3704" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bkN5q68FecD1zlh6MaOfW2-gtxpBNG6A-3kMRkEoDmSjxwpIOrHozs5Nmrzreuukpag7MBRU2ow8S1fGz1UpHl5CsykmdyZK3Lr0__jLLZ-rU_B04YnOIScrLZJ5X6iE2M9FeJICQk7pb8zV6XaWwBmiUYH3UbOQK4m9lg10n0recV2cUM3Tl__swwI/w608-h640/DSC_0527.JPG" width="608" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>In Conclusion:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">That picture above of the back says it all. Of all the wide legged pants I have made, not a single one had this gross wrinkle issue in the back inseam area. It was far wider and worse and with a broad U shape at CB before I did the Cheater Gusset. I guess I didn't cheat enough but at this point I have had it. It is far better than it was and I have to fault the pattern. I have not had this problem with any other pants pattern. I refuse to put any more effort into these pants. They may just hit the donate pile, that, or the gardening pile. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This design could have been so much simpler and with a much better fit. Every step of the process seemed to be overcomplicated and never a regard for bulk in what is marketed as a light summer pant. It was a cluster of aggravations. I would not recommend this pattern and regret the time I spent on it and the loss of my Essex Linen yardage. The good news is my current project is making me happy again with my sewing. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Sidebar: If you look at the picture of me with my hands stuck out in the pockets take a gander at my sloping shoulders. This is a new development. Many women of a certain age, particularly with osteoporosis as I have, will start getting a rounded upper back and the need to adjust for that. While that hasn't happened to me, yet anyway, over the past year I have really noticed my shoulders sloping and it became really evident with the lovely dress I am muslin-ing for the wedding I will attend soon. You will see more on that soon and the solution. I hope you enjoyed sharing in my trials and tribulations. There are better days a comin'........................Happy Sewing,,,,,,,,,,Bunny</span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-52216102429173096282023-08-12T16:25:00.002-04:002023-08-12T20:59:49.838-04:00Vogue 8406 Begins. Do I dare say Epic?<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIbSee15yAGWnMNduXlwWDnp0DmQu-uGy0dNoFW7A7OTUUQWSCdWsqjNWeSrWIk1TmoRqZcY9azH3YqUtdebWSeLoB_8cBJEOCmgI9SEKhgzVV-wVhJC6mDsI1nacIIdDENbiQ0eqhAlpCRpF_wfkQd1pY-LCu6uoHtSKUfzY2yojeGevaGaAe5AoN9AQ/s6000/DSC_0505.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIbSee15yAGWnMNduXlwWDnp0DmQu-uGy0dNoFW7A7OTUUQWSCdWsqjNWeSrWIk1TmoRqZcY9azH3YqUtdebWSeLoB_8cBJEOCmgI9SEKhgzVV-wVhJC6mDsI1nacIIdDENbiQ0eqhAlpCRpF_wfkQd1pY-LCu6uoHtSKUfzY2yojeGevaGaAe5AoN9AQ/w640-h426/DSC_0505.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I've finished the Paperbag Waist pants and the review will come as soon as I can take some pics, maybe tomorrow. In the meantime, I've begun what I think may be an epic project, at least as epic as anything I've made for myself in a while. We will be attending a formal, evening wedding, lovely venue, and it is at the very end of September. I had all fabric and pattern ready to go. A couple weeks ago I looked at my plans and decided it was just too light and summery for this affair. I needed to go shopping and start fresh. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I went with my sister. She drove from Maine to my home in New Hampshire and from here we drove 2 hours to Fabric Place Basement in Natick, Mass. This is a suburb of Greater Boston and not far from the reknown techology area of Massachusetts. It is so worth the trip for both of us and we try to make it twice a year, seasonally. This was our Fall trip, a bit early. There was so much for me to consider and I eventually ended up buying the fabric you see above. The pattern I will be using is McCall's 8406, a new release. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-154ncqg253/images/stencil/480x660/products/10246/64212/M8406_Front__52826.1688137524.jpg?c=1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-154ncqg253/images/stencil/480x660/products/10246/64212/M8406_Front__52826.1688137524.jpg?c=1" width="465" /></a></div><br /><b> I love the cut and simplicity of this dress.. It is a front, back, cut on sleeves, skirt front and back on the bias and an underarm zipper. It brings the interest up toward the face which is a good thing for my shape. I planned on it being challenging. Bias garments have never worked for me. They just hug my curves in a way that is not good and I'll leave it at that. I may just make the skirt on the straight of grain, we shall see, or a different style. Once the time was available I started on my muslin. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The dress is a tulle with only the smallest amount of stretch on the straight of grain. It is NOT a stretch poly mesh. There is no bias on the netting. The tiny sequins trail randomly all over and are less than an 1/8th of an inch with slightly larger sequin showing up every few inches or so. They are holographic which is pretty wild. As you move the colors shift in waves. Sounds tacky but isn't and Sis loved it. The overall color is a gunmetal blue/gray. I will use the same color in an Ambiance lining. In real life, it is much blue-er than shown here. The bodice will be underlined and the skirts will be free floating. The lace netting offers an inch or so of galloon lace on both selvedge edges so there is that I can use as well. Should be fun. My only concern is the bias skirt, therefore a serious muslin. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSWyHetw2gohz8zEKUaUTfvB4xq-f9gCAbDqzUijUXgLFI6ygGpBiwwBITG_rGH2ntyUvU9gSDi_xlGIdMCvg_zGiv53vQS1dsDSgYuWmaZyxs-d6pt9C0N_CL032dgqVvDREZUgsuqOF2QhuNAF2dZU15nMl6njFlztd0vug4Wx5zYyWFes5CD_7k1s/s4675/DSC_0509.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3666" data-original-width="4675" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSWyHetw2gohz8zEKUaUTfvB4xq-f9gCAbDqzUijUXgLFI6ygGpBiwwBITG_rGH2ntyUvU9gSDi_xlGIdMCvg_zGiv53vQS1dsDSgYuWmaZyxs-d6pt9C0N_CL032dgqVvDREZUgsuqOF2QhuNAF2dZU15nMl6njFlztd0vug4Wx5zYyWFes5CD_7k1s/w640-h502/DSC_0509.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Here is my first iteration of the bodice muslin. I always flat pattern measure before deciding on size and cutting. These big puffy sleeves are cut on and nearly level with the empire waistline. I could tell I would need an FBA. I cut the neckline and shoulder line for a size 8 and the bustline and underarm seam for a size 14. That underarm seam will become my waist seam and side seam to the bias skirt. I just know I need extra but not this much. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBS3KfAPgmeQVP98RYBIb_ljmkCrlzvFrOtWu2aU69uYw1x3VFKChlsQHdHcdEQAom_ZZHJ_878lxas9s56D3-okFHiqsjA-SJbaFRE_xsDCALpVmclLKrenzVy0wJLAoiE-cwuRzZ06typOdqpdEkffwqXj4xp4bRz_OIxBK3RmDrSIsXJ1oo1xC4i4/s5338/DSC_0491.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3537" data-original-width="5338" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBS3KfAPgmeQVP98RYBIb_ljmkCrlzvFrOtWu2aU69uYw1x3VFKChlsQHdHcdEQAom_ZZHJ_878lxas9s56D3-okFHiqsjA-SJbaFRE_xsDCALpVmclLKrenzVy0wJLAoiE-cwuRzZ06typOdqpdEkffwqXj4xp4bRz_OIxBK3RmDrSIsXJ1oo1xC4i4/w640-h424/DSC_0491.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Here you can see the issues. On the model on the pattern, the waist seam definitely goes under the bustline. Mine, at the size 14 line barely covers half of my cup. The shoulder seams are set at the right place. I am holding the side seams so you can see the width of the size 14 bodice. I would have to take it in hugely to be anywhere close to my own waist in the fashion that it is in the pattern cover. But I have ideas. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUJKjeaqK-rVOQEC-idUhO3OQNmu1kjQxjK_Gq8GwMIlojs9fsGiGb_rz23ijCRAzT2WXhBDufDlxOejyw_hiN2Mc_PbpmYL7h-thinXRiUmSirDbXRtHYABbIMT2Re7Yn8gf3N0yQBMdQEGivuQTML9VPddF1xJdHAjRUQNMGcEMVk_aV9F1kCg1zo1w/s6000/DSC_0492.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUJKjeaqK-rVOQEC-idUhO3OQNmu1kjQxjK_Gq8GwMIlojs9fsGiGb_rz23ijCRAzT2WXhBDufDlxOejyw_hiN2Mc_PbpmYL7h-thinXRiUmSirDbXRtHYABbIMT2Re7Yn8gf3N0yQBMdQEGivuQTML9VPddF1xJdHAjRUQNMGcEMVk_aV9F1kCg1zo1w/w640-h426/DSC_0492.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>This back photo gives you an even better view of the width. Next is what it looks like if I pin it at 5/8ths and let go. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-T6DczDQifyt9hf4rhFllqX48_mJGd-pGZ0b7Yv_5Qt1ILCgwt2zQzJlcTbMm1UoQBZ86QMRPe9iKKWsxVSqRnwHWfDe9fEkNWatD2Fu9g2b8xmfyXkTxRQHJ3AcPdTXH2UI10s2vjMwOj9CAoPW1zurGq3PGir6Kbv6uplIVGzXs6znjXljOBeMnJc/s4907/DSC_0493.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3273" data-original-width="4907" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-T6DczDQifyt9hf4rhFllqX48_mJGd-pGZ0b7Yv_5Qt1ILCgwt2zQzJlcTbMm1UoQBZ86QMRPe9iKKWsxVSqRnwHWfDe9fEkNWatD2Fu9g2b8xmfyXkTxRQHJ3AcPdTXH2UI10s2vjMwOj9CAoPW1zurGq3PGir6Kbv6uplIVGzXs6znjXljOBeMnJc/w640-h426/DSC_0493.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>You can see all the excess emanating from the shoulders. I expect the big no armscye wrinkle that you get when you have a cuton sleeve but the radiation from the neckline is just not right. So here is my plan, I THINK. I will have muslin number two to show you soon, I hope. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3x1NRukhuqftUqBFHnbb5aBKdPAiq4FXmqDQkLBxO7260s_IaXR1xIvlzphVe8hqVWVcYBx7OL13dG_XwehMAjwMfZl2hDvPKRFDV0lBYzZu1jqhsZSWNOdrJINttEldCXkhEWqyd2AR9z0-B9Nmr5qUw93PnOUSJ6OKYlJltxcBXcCY2C6eGegVx9s/s6000/DSC_0503.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3x1NRukhuqftUqBFHnbb5aBKdPAiq4FXmqDQkLBxO7260s_IaXR1xIvlzphVe8hqVWVcYBx7OL13dG_XwehMAjwMfZl2hDvPKRFDV0lBYzZu1jqhsZSWNOdrJINttEldCXkhEWqyd2AR9z0-B9Nmr5qUw93PnOUSJ6OKYlJltxcBXcCY2C6eGegVx9s/w640-h426/DSC_0503.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Here is the bodice pattern piece. Keep in mind that it has that 2 inch wide bias collar band being attached so the width of the bodice will be 2-4 inches wider as it crosses my chest. I may decrease the width of that by a half inch for starters. You are looking at the pattern piece as the grain lines up straight. I have done this cheater FBA on other gathered bustlines before, something learned from Sandra Betzina. It requires drawing an elipse shape in the area of the bust, beneath the bustline on each side, tapering to nothing at sides and center front, the red line you see. The pattern piece, as sold, is the same for all sizes except for a miniscule amount close to the armscye. And it doesn't cover my bust???? in the fourteen cut? I also will take in the shoulder seam all the way to help eliminate some of that radiation. I am not sure that will do it. I may also do a tuck across the width, front and back, as width across my bust is not the issue. It's clearly the length. </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I understand all of this is a moot point until the skirt is connected to the top, which I hope to do tomorrow. Fingers crossed and clearly plenty more to come! This is going to take some play..............................Bunny</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsl2NfqDjgA5x9gOXeL-mo5-fa62wxfgtk36f6ORD1WCekSxtVPQHHoydoUyFlnlXJr1XQtY11w2L4-lh23qVWqeCAZkIbn5luuVSbkqug4Jt9S6HDqyRZgD2vRy0lvsZ6nqMQnYYX0Xf1IlMg3a7eXLhyWw-DdvLEZ3t5GABUO_Dd0ksI_jQbo0_AJtc/s6000/DSC_0488.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsl2NfqDjgA5x9gOXeL-mo5-fa62wxfgtk36f6ORD1WCekSxtVPQHHoydoUyFlnlXJr1XQtY11w2L4-lh23qVWqeCAZkIbn5luuVSbkqug4Jt9S6HDqyRZgD2vRy0lvsZ6nqMQnYYX0Xf1IlMg3a7eXLhyWw-DdvLEZ3t5GABUO_Dd0ksI_jQbo0_AJtc/w640-h426/DSC_0488.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-74410034197007476312023-08-06T21:51:00.004-04:002023-08-11T19:00:50.682-04:00The Cheater Gusset - Did I invent this?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8LbfSl8Qt-4pETwC2_6efpyA2X956R_OntICAUdKe6diaIN0gWaoPq4Psf-XkLzmC2hVzIq7ex5wINzLWl1QPWS9BfLKbED9D3H-ruSah_eCX0Ng3u6D--kbk9rEn782MK7Oe9dJu_blun3yZISGpqK-OgYjop6EgL4qfKS0Dt09ILFBUuh5nHL9S58/s4119/DSC_0484.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4119" data-original-width="3463" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8LbfSl8Qt-4pETwC2_6efpyA2X956R_OntICAUdKe6diaIN0gWaoPq4Psf-XkLzmC2hVzIq7ex5wINzLWl1QPWS9BfLKbED9D3H-ruSah_eCX0Ng3u6D--kbk9rEn782MK7Oe9dJu_blun3yZISGpqK-OgYjop6EgL4qfKS0Dt09ILFBUuh5nHL9S58/w538-h640/DSC_0484.JPG" width="538" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This afternoon, after a surprising amount of work, I finished View B of the pattern you see above. These are a paperbag waist style of pants, rather full, with belt loops and a sash. Since pants with a defined waist at the natural waistline and a straight leg look best on me, I thought these would be a good choice to finish out the summer sewing plans. </b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>First of all, they were far more work than I had anticipated and I will get into that when I put up the review with pictures. In the meantime I wanted to share a fitting solution. I suspected what the issue was, went with a trial adjustment and it worked as you will eventually see ( she says sheepishly with fingers crossed). I could not find my specific issue any where online, gave up and went with my suspicions. I named it the "Cheater Gusset". Why? Simply because I was lazy. </b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3PR7cstnYz2FLXshb1AT0XEWIRb5nJNr7n049_SJ55IVj8xlC9IJ9gOMW5pHRl12AQdsz9aSRX_OCCMF2yVStBIQGsbBzdWVhxsOv7MBlxxPeZ-FrNahb4fcCEqy2KfkhGXAm9KnGDXbs23dcTDpv0KnnuvM_nuDgCenq02mpGfdtG5d1jyTA0-ON6U/s300/inner%20thigh%20alteration-238x300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="238" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3PR7cstnYz2FLXshb1AT0XEWIRb5nJNr7n049_SJ55IVj8xlC9IJ9gOMW5pHRl12AQdsz9aSRX_OCCMF2yVStBIQGsbBzdWVhxsOv7MBlxxPeZ-FrNahb4fcCEqy2KfkhGXAm9KnGDXbs23dcTDpv0KnnuvM_nuDgCenq02mpGfdtG5d1jyTA0-ON6U/w508-h640/inner%20thigh%20alteration-238x300.jpg" width="508" /></a></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><div style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of "5 out of 4", 2017</div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>The above photo shows someone's lovely backside with my same problem: structurally wide boned hips with thinner legs coming out from them. What happens, and it was much more pronounced on my backside, was an arch shaped curved that was a long wrinkle that went up one leg, peaked at the fullness of the bum but close to center back, made an arch across the butt, and then made it's way down the other leg, same way it came up, Le Arch de le Rump. My front of the pants hung very nicely. The back even looked quite good except for this weird arch/wrinkle. I had a feeling my back inseam was too big. I fiddled and played. I took them off and pinned a tuck with <i>safety pins </i>across the inseam. The tuck was only across the back inseams as my front was fine. No, I did not want to rip out serging and taping and seam allowances that allowed nothing as they were cut way back to the stitching. I tried on the pinned and tucked pants and my arch became one of Triumphe! Lucky guess!</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE05nFPAc56uzEN6CwrCDUlS31pJz4n3dQxXxY64eyQs73hDdS0WHeVi2SGz36BE467T0PzSziSbZ3Z-kxRrasP1Mz97Yj7DFJis6P4M0N3a9cDYaAZUBEAiCDVVqBItyha-_gtJ7hIi6iGON_CHEKhVwPANz6IWJ49KpzaetgJpLp83VaP8YOCcADBwI/s6000/DSC_0473.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE05nFPAc56uzEN6CwrCDUlS31pJz4n3dQxXxY64eyQs73hDdS0WHeVi2SGz36BE467T0PzSziSbZ3Z-kxRrasP1Mz97Yj7DFJis6P4M0N3a9cDYaAZUBEAiCDVVqBItyha-_gtJ7hIi6iGON_CHEKhVwPANz6IWJ49KpzaetgJpLp83VaP8YOCcADBwI/w640-h426/DSC_0473.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Now I knew what to do. Again, I was not about to take apart that whole intersection. Now, why did I end up with this fit issue to begin with? Let's start with my body. Nothing wrong with it. It just has changed. I have wide hip bones, just a little lower than our lovely model above. I always had heavy thighs until the last few years which included weight loss, much lost in my legs. That could be one reason. I have space in retail legs now I never did before. I did do a toile, Top Down Center Out, out of an old soft sheet, and the issue did not show up there. I can only think it was because I was not seeing the two sides of the pant's rear interacting with each other. With TDCO, you only work with half the pattern and it came out just right. Could be fabric issue as well. I can tell you, this is the first time I have ever made this adjustment, whatever the reason is. Pattern? Legs getting skinnier? Fabric? Just crazy things to ponder. <br /><br />After I took the pants off and unpinned my <u>SAFETY</u> pins, I turned the pants inside out. Above you can see the tape on the back crotch line and my Hong Kong treated fly zipper above, (she smiles ;) . Once inside out I grabbed my hip curve and a marker. Starting one and a half inches from the big 4 way intersection I made a horizontal fold crossing the center back seam. I roughly pinned it to keep the fold in place. I needed about 8 inches east and west of center back to work with. I got my curved ruler and marker and at center back I placed it one half inch from the fold and keeping the future seam fairly wide, moved down exactly 7 1/2 inches where the line/seam tapered to nothing and back into the normal inseam already stitched. I went back to the center back and reversed the process in the other direction. I ended up with the horizontal tuck you see above, half inch wide at center back, one inch north from the 4 way intersection and tapering to nothing 7 1/2 inches left and right of center back. It's basically a fish eye dart across the inseam legs.</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>I proceeded to stitch and then to the ironing board. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVpu5EsPotVrFBgvpvoDoMjH-KKmNmenlNh27l1YJiFCNFD3jbmZ_OVAlGEOlLlcauRxn33b5PhJMYxd4ilYmJMnok85_i-b2LLjnFMGrdrbGfxwY4_6R5P5WpWDOfd00EBMyHwQ4lJ-rxbGWWnr_b0S3t-U9t7MJ_e26OGuROstHp4XlvbkNKHipzGU/s6000/DSC_0475.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVpu5EsPotVrFBgvpvoDoMjH-KKmNmenlNh27l1YJiFCNFD3jbmZ_OVAlGEOlLlcauRxn33b5PhJMYxd4ilYmJMnok85_i-b2LLjnFMGrdrbGfxwY4_6R5P5WpWDOfd00EBMyHwQ4lJ-rxbGWWnr_b0S3t-U9t7MJ_e26OGuROstHp4XlvbkNKHipzGU/w426-h640/DSC_0475.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>Here you see how the dart/tuck /cheater gusset is pressed toward the inseam and how it tapers to nothing and into the original seam at the bottom. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTk3zulxX__f9bcdq38UsPICY1oc-5ZyimAB1-BtCSijwKUIo-J-eyeXLMrVXLrnk-L7ur-EXgUemuZa6sYUWvR4BMFs6lsI0Blvl9i3bop2HQ-4KF3np90-iRnK-TXqbINWAODG_85p7y7YrdmOtEzNIfFbep7uEpIUvITYTVu-j7Yi1uc1Jn6FVs-Y/s6000/DSC_0477.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTk3zulxX__f9bcdq38UsPICY1oc-5ZyimAB1-BtCSijwKUIo-J-eyeXLMrVXLrnk-L7ur-EXgUemuZa6sYUWvR4BMFs6lsI0Blvl9i3bop2HQ-4KF3np90-iRnK-TXqbINWAODG_85p7y7YrdmOtEzNIfFbep7uEpIUvITYTVu-j7Yi1uc1Jn6FVs-Y/w640-h426/DSC_0477.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>Here you see the Cheater Gusset, it's now official name, completed. I do not feel this when I wear it. I may serge it down but for now will just leave it flat and as is. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFobDpRLOG6KsSUJvbXZqSMQaMzRLYAHRMdSUn_OQwfHxgx3oc-FTkygAmX2ZYYz61ft9IeOti0RoXMzzyaVy5yFqrfpFckT2-b9PjgkpePWJfLC5xvxcsdp_RLwuTllORcryAvjSZkxtHdZ2jgrEr_qZ54rvT9boSFxKA3l25rgiMAz5X37Epf3qDElg/s6000/DSC_0480.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFobDpRLOG6KsSUJvbXZqSMQaMzRLYAHRMdSUn_OQwfHxgx3oc-FTkygAmX2ZYYz61ft9IeOti0RoXMzzyaVy5yFqrfpFckT2-b9PjgkpePWJfLC5xvxcsdp_RLwuTllORcryAvjSZkxtHdZ2jgrEr_qZ54rvT9boSFxKA3l25rgiMAz5X37Epf3qDElg/w640-h426/DSC_0480.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5yL9POm44KVzu8HUPeuiQh1-bDF9Y9CPRjUXSYCxfLU_xOw0oagc7Jom3b-YLvqTs3g96DoqDOdAuB3XjYUxZeJA_HsNQyMXKJGM6-aPqahW6OR5dnI-5CPK6DlP_R8486a4LP_VOrUYKmOi15QHwtHZdop0BdgHdfQHvbpllDSYKRd01DFqQwvSrbo/s6000/DSC_0481.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5yL9POm44KVzu8HUPeuiQh1-bDF9Y9CPRjUXSYCxfLU_xOw0oagc7Jom3b-YLvqTs3g96DoqDOdAuB3XjYUxZeJA_HsNQyMXKJGM6-aPqahW6OR5dnI-5CPK6DlP_R8486a4LP_VOrUYKmOi15QHwtHZdop0BdgHdfQHvbpllDSYKRd01DFqQwvSrbo/w640-h426/DSC_0481.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>You cannot see the Cheater Gusset anywhere. It's thin and deep into my nether regions. You can see the tied sash ends hanging in the background so the pic above is a bit confusing. I wrote the word Sash on them but that's a bit hard to read as well. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>I will remember this Cheater Gusset if I need it again. I saw many upper back of pants fixits but couldn't find a wrinkle map for what I had. Most addressed smiles and frown wrinkles, neither of which applied here. I know I've seen them on rare occasions but when I really needed one I just couldn't put my finger on it. I will stay on the hunt and hope to find it and you can get a more accurate picture of my fitting issue. I am still positive on the Top Down Center Out method but making an entire muslin was never anything I shied away from either. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>So we have a new term today, sewing sisters and brothers, The Cheater Gusset. Remember you heard it here first and oh, it really just took a few minutes and was a very easy and quick fix. Hope I help somebody out there!</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>ETA: Why did I come up with this particular name? First of all, it looks like a gusset. Next, I did this in a place that often gets a gusset to better function. The word "Cheater" was used in the same context that the term "Cheater FBA" is used. It is not the "real" way to fix this problem with the back inseam on my pants. That would have been much more work and rather dangerous to the garment, requiring dismantling the whole 4 way inseam crotch area. So I cheated with a dart across the back inseam area and am proud of it, ;). So, it's not a real gusset but it looks like one and it's a lot easier to do because I cheated. I thought some "splainin" was merited. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><b>***********************************</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZumGCJROY10ATMwJqISMRfJxETMjzmR_EXhQUL3KpQ1rAVAfFEFnXG4222oWLCu_aNZsceAHZP8pTaz3NVbZjl_ZFl5d0JJrlCknvTWa6cH4ddrx3_FSmls3rSTNnxgqRCcuAZpl_skx2z0QN2RVn0tfKSrlw7elJOkVKOY0WTITfYbB43t693Y-IJtY/s5228/DSC_0440.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5228" data-original-width="3961" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZumGCJROY10ATMwJqISMRfJxETMjzmR_EXhQUL3KpQ1rAVAfFEFnXG4222oWLCu_aNZsceAHZP8pTaz3NVbZjl_ZFl5d0JJrlCknvTWa6cH4ddrx3_FSmls3rSTNnxgqRCcuAZpl_skx2z0QN2RVn0tfKSrlw7elJOkVKOY0WTITfYbB43t693Y-IJtY/w484-h640/DSC_0440.JPG" width="484" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">I got some new additions to my sewing studio recently. One of my neighbors moved cross country and on her last day she put things out on her lawn that just weren't making the trip, FOR FREE! This garment rack was like sparkling new and just perfect. I rolled it up the street to my home, gave it a swish and swipe with some Windex and arranged some of my precious fabrics on it along with some customer pickups. Perfect for my space. More changes to come. I love my new rack! Happy Sewing.................Bunny</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-49072646700588517552023-07-24T15:57:00.002-04:002023-07-24T18:55:50.642-04:00I like this shirt and pants!!! Retro!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJZFuzCf1s30WJf3mxbJ_JWgtaKRiEVP-1cFf37KeGSRgpJQldM3So3Q1k2_9SPnyXcryY3Gt9Lyw9kGXJ0jkBhih2Jy3Ax6g2G_IYARv4Iddi53XQ180PMpz40H2TRtNBo1r5sAGlckdjzmqsVqa3TaU7BomL55-tdGWHa1fuetytudIl-QhOT6sUY-I/s6000/DSC_0369.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJZFuzCf1s30WJf3mxbJ_JWgtaKRiEVP-1cFf37KeGSRgpJQldM3So3Q1k2_9SPnyXcryY3Gt9Lyw9kGXJ0jkBhih2Jy3Ax6g2G_IYARv4Iddi53XQ180PMpz40H2TRtNBo1r5sAGlckdjzmqsVqa3TaU7BomL55-tdGWHa1fuetytudIl-QhOT6sUY-I/w640-h426/DSC_0369.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>It's been a while and it feels good to be back. I'll bring you up to date when we get to the end. Life has been full of excitement lately but I am here, happy, and sewing away! It feels good to have some sunshine around here after weeks of rain, floods and humidity that we just aren't used to.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I've made a couple of tops during this time and these trousers as well. I just so love the wide legged trouser trend. It has always been my favorite style of pants. I think it is my most flattering and certainly my most comfortable. I'll review the top first. This is the top that owns the collar written about in the last two posts, a collar I finally got right on the fourth iteration, Alleluiah! For the pants, I have done a detailed and quite opinionated review of this pattern before that I'll reference but will show the details and differences I applied to these on this version. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">THE BLOUSE</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjlqldNkwdAAsQuNSHMAOIqDB2-hIYcCCn5ULsPp0kFHjRogdJ_Ck6E9IeMB9SEhvV71VOu2IZcuRKKF0R3MHZH-iWQcoy8FrKuaNPif3rbNnbY_aqxPPLoLT4saBA-SLT0eAVabAFkNapm_vmJi3ZzAs-ekRXePRoy3kURDWKj1Hs_otSx86-Z-RwsA/s6000/DSC_0373.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjlqldNkwdAAsQuNSHMAOIqDB2-hIYcCCn5ULsPp0kFHjRogdJ_Ck6E9IeMB9SEhvV71VOu2IZcuRKKF0R3MHZH-iWQcoy8FrKuaNPif3rbNnbY_aqxPPLoLT4saBA-SLT0eAVabAFkNapm_vmJi3ZzAs-ekRXePRoy3kURDWKj1Hs_otSx86-Z-RwsA/w640-h426/DSC_0373.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The goal here was a Camp Shirt. Of course, now I am seeing patterns everywhere, but a couple of months ago, NADA. Then I went looking at vintage patterns and there it was, the perfect camp shirt, masquerading as 1940s women's pajamas, sooooo very stylish. I fell in love with this pattern. It was a BIG shirt, one of my goals, and it had a camp style collar, meaning no collar stand and simple to sew. Was that ever a wrong assumption! What you see above is the fourth and final iteration of the pattern collar. I love it. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHDiVgAwv8U20Nz7B1Px4n3S3w7gg5Pr4O50OCVtK_jfoHQRNtp8H7IhJAE0VQtod9pLPNVxYB1xEVWWSztmVdtvRmSzXnpf4mtVA8oVAfyzB3C-EIh-C-bcfRkFCjEf_wzSvKw1LB9phPjEaXvgJJE0dreJbcGm0NJ-3euJB_1o6wlqSJ-QykA-eJJc/s4003/DSC_0334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4003" data-original-width="3106" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHDiVgAwv8U20Nz7B1Px4n3S3w7gg5Pr4O50OCVtK_jfoHQRNtp8H7IhJAE0VQtod9pLPNVxYB1xEVWWSztmVdtvRmSzXnpf4mtVA8oVAfyzB3C-EIh-C-bcfRkFCjEf_wzSvKw1LB9phPjEaXvgJJE0dreJbcGm0NJ-3euJB_1o6wlqSJ-QykA-eJJc/w496-h640/DSC_0334.JPG" width="496" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">This is <a href="https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s9635">Simplicity 9635,</a> a current pattern. As the pattern says, it is "1940s Vintage". What the pattern doesn't tell you is that there is a lot of ease in the pattern, The finished bust measurement on a size six (30 1/2 in. bust) is 41 1/2 inches. However, this is beautifully drafted. You would assume correctly that the shoulders are extended yet they somehow don't have the look of today's droopy extended shoulders. Is it the slightly lowered armscye? All I know is that I wanted a big shirt and got a very well designed big shirt, IMO. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Another issue I often have is the length of short sleeves. I really liked where these sleeves landed on me, a rarity with short sleeves. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOYj96O_fRBOtzbcnHubphMy0B_J9TvN9DWD3cl0aa_i0L8zyctb-mwK3oZYjGcUny4NddDGVCBECuJTeSCj56Z_m1jRXjMjWYwWfwKjgqJygCoEfd0g8X-83eSTnDV2i5lucXOSHRnMOnw1F1egY2924M-KNJWi-EUMv4QErqHbK1iTHW_8AZS968jc/s5151/DSC_0359.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5151" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOYj96O_fRBOtzbcnHubphMy0B_J9TvN9DWD3cl0aa_i0L8zyctb-mwK3oZYjGcUny4NddDGVCBECuJTeSCj56Z_m1jRXjMjWYwWfwKjgqJygCoEfd0g8X-83eSTnDV2i5lucXOSHRnMOnw1F1egY2924M-KNJWi-EUMv4QErqHbK1iTHW_8AZS968jc/w640-h496/DSC_0359.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is made with a Joann's classic. I didn't know how the pattern would work out so was not ready to invest my good white linen into the top just yet. I went for the tried and true Symphony Broadcloth from Joann's. It's bargain fabric but I have used it before and knew what I was getting into. It is a 65 Poly, 35 cotton blend, best of both worlds? It's highly washable and quite tough, too. I find the white stays nice and white in our mineral loaded water. Synthetics don't do as badly as all natural fibers so it will have a bit longer life. The fabric also requires little ironing which is a two headed monster. This quality makes it difficult to ease and makes it hard to press away imperfections, like those of hand stitches. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>When I was a child I would watch my Mom at the machine cranking out heaven only knows how many little white shirts for my brothers to wear to school. I am sure they were all cotton back then but she would have loved the laundry ease of Symphony. It comes out of the wash needing almost no care. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Now I am ready to make this shirt in some lovely linen.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The buttons are vintage as well and from the collection I inherited from my dear friend Ima. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fINOZtozhdZ3OHT5MAy_brgyNrOe7rGsFC-vt4bNZe42ax4_4xVtjXGCVlTeNC7CzeqEQZEa0efid_KlLnlaaEOuqrWcVKwvgf7gkhazKimLcbeu4Iq8HsC6ncDAdE2n61hcSCHIrTFWgt14s6kMOhCMqcvtcuO_-TQwK5XfTHKrBwE3ylowJYz016M/s4997/DSC_0376.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="4997" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fINOZtozhdZ3OHT5MAy_brgyNrOe7rGsFC-vt4bNZe42ax4_4xVtjXGCVlTeNC7CzeqEQZEa0efid_KlLnlaaEOuqrWcVKwvgf7gkhazKimLcbeu4Iq8HsC6ncDAdE2n61hcSCHIrTFWgt14s6kMOhCMqcvtcuO_-TQwK5XfTHKrBwE3ylowJYz016M/w640-h512/DSC_0376.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I had concerns here. Would my blouse be sheer, see through? Would my interfacing show through? How would those issues affect my construction? Did I want to change anything from the pattern? </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I so remember all the white shirts I wore with school uniforms growing up. They were pretty generic and I imagined one big giant factory churned them all out by the millions. I do remember they had one small detail that I have never forgotten. The pocket hem band ended in a tiny tuck, about a little less than a quarter of an inch wide. The sleeves had a hem band as well and that ended with the same tiny tuck. In the case of these tucks it was a matter of measuring and folding and one row of topstitching and all raw edges were enclosed and tucked. I played and figured it out and was able to remake the memory exactly as worn. It was really just a fold that was stitched far from the edge and caught in the hem edges, but such a distinct memory from those uniform days. </b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UX53BcbDOYxcWalIzZ47eudfynsNlyJDO86uLRz4EOGUQV0yiIkADj3rKmNkc0ZPzHUpp0aMdxuL8c4Xm3zGxxmsCWJHbzar1JYF-yY7x16AJerirx5WLgXbNx_yWMA21oPCvMO--Q6cobBYAPa9Pl6GEdqQLhZki6WjBXLE-eZaz4Br5KyASTy4qs4/s4411/DSC_0377.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3981" data-original-width="4411" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UX53BcbDOYxcWalIzZ47eudfynsNlyJDO86uLRz4EOGUQV0yiIkADj3rKmNkc0ZPzHUpp0aMdxuL8c4Xm3zGxxmsCWJHbzar1JYF-yY7x16AJerirx5WLgXbNx_yWMA21oPCvMO--Q6cobBYAPa9Pl6GEdqQLhZki6WjBXLE-eZaz4Br5KyASTy4qs4/w640-h578/DSC_0377.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">Now to the sheer issue....I decided to use a technique gleaned from Sandra Betzina many moons ago on her TV program. I am amazed at how what I learned on those sewing programs has stuck with me. I got rid of the facings and simply cut the front bodice pieces on the fold. There would be no stitching other than the buttonholes. This requires a good amount of extra material as the two bodices were both double their width. I think in the end I bought a yard and a half extra with not much waste. The interfacing was fused to the interior side of this double bodice but on the inside layer, not the public layer. It also required that I turn under and hand stitch the top collar section to the back bodice from one shoulder seam, around the neckline and to the other shoulder seam. Finishing collars this way was quite common in vintage patterns, no facings or bindings, just turning under seam allowances. The only issue here, which did not exist in the forties, is that my fiber content was part synthetic and did not press or hand stitch down as flat as an all natural fiber would have. But I am nit picking here and I doubt anyone but you wonderful sewists who follow me would ever notice. In the end, I believe you can see in the photo above how doubling the bodice front layers really gave a beautiful finish to a lightweight fabric and its button area while taking care of the sheer factor. I would definitely do it again. </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYd8guAHdceE3l1mQJ2gP0iNMI-NxVILs9oJrBPKJD1cJHdfYobjv_ZAlAw7oLdDCxwRe0_Cl0-aqZapbzZWm1xQ8AsoWl8GnR1QNzaVzJ0eQjXlCscdbyESvThBkMWGYdx6ox-0smyF8l9dD9MjilfMbMPsMDF3NhpTX9lTHtZ5STln8drm3B974yZiw/s6000/DSC_0383.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYd8guAHdceE3l1mQJ2gP0iNMI-NxVILs9oJrBPKJD1cJHdfYobjv_ZAlAw7oLdDCxwRe0_Cl0-aqZapbzZWm1xQ8AsoWl8GnR1QNzaVzJ0eQjXlCscdbyESvThBkMWGYdx6ox-0smyF8l9dD9MjilfMbMPsMDF3NhpTX9lTHtZ5STln8drm3B974yZiw/w426-h640/DSC_0383.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;">All of the seams were French seams, including the armscye. </b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8K0Njk_UyaWwCCCA33Ibhk-RZam67DSFLdy732QBFP1Z_j70B8x192KA8XtYS312CdBigojPoHCWhq8fpUrqx4qqrLRHQqW8Ol0ofisD2FgySL_rvDoR4o-2FE1rfQ-US_R8kJolQyP6f-KK0nCgxLW5hY3XJ8HULKKHykbhk4O9tG45mbxK1n7XiyUg/s5717/DSC_0385.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3216" data-original-width="5717" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8K0Njk_UyaWwCCCA33Ibhk-RZam67DSFLdy732QBFP1Z_j70B8x192KA8XtYS312CdBigojPoHCWhq8fpUrqx4qqrLRHQqW8Ol0ofisD2FgySL_rvDoR4o-2FE1rfQ-US_R8kJolQyP6f-KK0nCgxLW5hY3XJ8HULKKHykbhk4O9tG45mbxK1n7XiyUg/w640-h360/DSC_0385.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;">The darts were sewn into the bodice on top of the double layers of fabric. </b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">The collar drama is well discussed in the two previous posts which you will find by clicking "previous post" at the bottom of this one. This is an Acute Angle collar and needed seam allowances to come to a point in a VERY narrow area. There was a way to do it and thanks to an avid reader, I was informed and on the fourth try finally got a decent collar as you can see in the top photos. Love you all, dear readers. </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>For the hem, I simply serged but did a nice miter fold at the center front corners. It was an inch and a quarter deep. I am really into my deeper hems lately. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I love this pattern and would and hope to make it again but the queue is long right now and so much to sew!!! I am still working on summer and will be for a while. I so love to sew with linen! </b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Pants</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Poz97UvBgp16JkYeb_pAa-RxKMOvSgMgoDCYLniV2zIgzc_x_2VBLJwZ8usz4I2NEhaG-zhYmIZfGfSth7oniuSoWJ0AtLiqykLfNLihyrTk5iZq2F2RwTV2BmAigLOuwbscy5SXOVfpzvga4XGvmwNazeAnT1wHsV9Hdeu_WTMhPqtx_jbdww-ofLA/s2785/DSC_0416.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2785" data-original-width="1981" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Poz97UvBgp16JkYeb_pAa-RxKMOvSgMgoDCYLniV2zIgzc_x_2VBLJwZ8usz4I2NEhaG-zhYmIZfGfSth7oniuSoWJ0AtLiqykLfNLihyrTk5iZq2F2RwTV2BmAigLOuwbscy5SXOVfpzvga4XGvmwNazeAnT1wHsV9Hdeu_WTMhPqtx_jbdww-ofLA/w456-h640/DSC_0416.JPG" width="456" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This pattern is McCalls 5239. It is a Palmer Pletch "Classic Fit" pattern described on the envelope as "learn to sew the perfect fit pants". You can read that review and my strong opinion on the pattern <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2020/11/mccalls-5239-kathryn-hepburn-trouser.html" target="_blank">Here.</a> </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6hjdOhbp1aMDXUZb0D6zA-RJ7kpA1syUuIsGNvSj0_ZqY9h79_gGi0GeCHt9adTOm4RNd166fRw_adSjwYRuSsHE7lsQWsgNcA-tBiRWjzihG9j79HXtD4quCEQUkE8FjGlJvM94Wuw/s399/DSC_0526.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="266" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6hjdOhbp1aMDXUZb0D6zA-RJ7kpA1syUuIsGNvSj0_ZqY9h79_gGi0GeCHt9adTOm4RNd166fRw_adSjwYRuSsHE7lsQWsgNcA-tBiRWjzihG9j79HXtD4quCEQUkE8FjGlJvM94Wuw/w426-h640/DSC_0526.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Before you scoot off to read my review, know that I really like the style of View C. The legs are basically cut straight down from a full high hip and the width/fullness is generated from a couple of pleats on each side of the pant front. There are darts, TWO, on each side of the pant back. I have wide hips and I really think these two darts help my fit here. I love this pant design and will make it again and again if need to. It's comfy, and I think it works with my small hourglass, even though the sands have somewhat shifted. And, I just love the style, period. However, I did not follow the pattern at all here. Instead, I took advantage of the opportunity to try out the Top Down Center Out pant fitting method and I will say I was impressed. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">When Ruth Collins's method first appeared in Threads Magazine, I thought it was a bit of hooo-ey. As time went by and I saw results on bodies, I start really considering this method differently. Then I followed thru all the videos of<a href="https://youtu.be/3Xuo1yrF5nw"> Jennifer Stern</a> and also <a href="https://youtu.be/0Cgo5s8yC1I">"the Crooked Hem"</a> on YouTube. I was convinced to try it. Admittedly, for these pants I did a rush through. Watched those videos again and again and am now making another pair of pants, very different pattern, following the method in great detail. I am a total convert. I will have more on all of that when I review that pant pattern which I am halfway through right now. The method is simple, and gives results. I recommend the videos I just mentioned. It is so simple and different as well, that one questions how it works, but it does. Trust me,,,,,,well, you can see my quickie version in the pants here. So, I used the TDCO method, not Palmer Pletch, to get my fit, and I used Sandra Betzina's Fly Zipper method, found in her Power Sewing book. I also use my own tried and true method for slanted pants pockets and that about sums up my use of the pattern, zip. Great design, everyone else's fit and construction. </b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeoHHyEOnxfPdutYz8VNPi02ffCVkwhFI3IiXHED2OPyfvfALejeFCvfZQufbYdvSIgWadTbSX7V7F6XCCxwFJM47kFux-A5JeX2uRrtYDTyjjou3YPJAkPoHpx9AIofV5wiJHJTorYh0LUcZn8rZJrsjx80pAs1N3XHxU6NqtFEkj3oevUbsW1bHrXk/s6000/DSC_0415.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeoHHyEOnxfPdutYz8VNPi02ffCVkwhFI3IiXHED2OPyfvfALejeFCvfZQufbYdvSIgWadTbSX7V7F6XCCxwFJM47kFux-A5JeX2uRrtYDTyjjou3YPJAkPoHpx9AIofV5wiJHJTorYh0LUcZn8rZJrsjx80pAs1N3XHxU6NqtFEkj3oevUbsW1bHrXk/w640-h426/DSC_0415.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><b>Fabric:</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This fabric is 100% linen, the raw gray kind. I believe it might have come from Fabric-store.com as that is where I have been getting most of my linen lately. Great prices, quality and sales. It was prewashed a couple of times and now I can literally pull it out of the washer and just give an iron swipe to the hems and waistband edges and done. I like that bubbly washed linen look. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhacPkWIcu0x6_TSy4aepvHp_6fZf97Xin2r1bLxqMDM71vt8V2XGHSKaD5V4xaXSCyenEaTiDTe_xszzopIknU85phmaUnO-oDbqaKY34kDE3LYFjYPvs9OD80FQa-kwEvJjgatqh9KToe4fYKhAIp9jPtryh2NIPrJcviyu4h55GbwucrB8TbbmQZ2M/s4000/DSC_0424.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2804" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhacPkWIcu0x6_TSy4aepvHp_6fZf97Xin2r1bLxqMDM71vt8V2XGHSKaD5V4xaXSCyenEaTiDTe_xszzopIknU85phmaUnO-oDbqaKY34kDE3LYFjYPvs9OD80FQa-kwEvJjgatqh9KToe4fYKhAIp9jPtryh2NIPrJcviyu4h55GbwucrB8TbbmQZ2M/w448-h640/DSC_0424.JPG" width="448" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I did start the pants process with making a waistband. Now that I am on my second pair of pants with this method and even if I don't use the method, I can't tell you how invaluable this waistband has become. I made a waistband in my favorite width and in my waist size. It is well marked with red zigzagging at center back center front and side seams. It is snug as a bug in a rug, how I like it, and very comfortable. It well interfaced and has a button and also a snap closure, eveerything just like a completed waistband. I wore it around the house for over an hour going up and down stairs, etc. This will never go into a pair of pants. It is a fitting tool, a priceless fitting tool. It fits perfectly, probably the best waistband I've ever had. It became the bedrock of the TDCO fitting method. I keep it to use on all future pants making projects. I won't have to make another unless my weight/build changes. It has its seam allowance and that is clearly marked as well. It can be a waistband marker for any pant and made narrower if desired. I can tell you that these pants are so very comfortable in the waist. The pants grow from this waistband so comfortably. </span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNO5SHkcxu6anyT55xUCOMjRuo4UDNOdB_OytjXqfcklWgVjfnxf8RHhfi2cl1_3harQ7mT2aAbFTbsQLSJBjqoMUMFZcavLYpnpCNpPHEMliCfmwuXA7CS9O1YKJ5qaV7MAZn0BdF3gHOLiwxbegnepdlSgDOH0EqbCIcwz7Rp9SS4h9U0QJRQjI-5VI/s6000/DSC_0338.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNO5SHkcxu6anyT55xUCOMjRuo4UDNOdB_OytjXqfcklWgVjfnxf8RHhfi2cl1_3harQ7mT2aAbFTbsQLSJBjqoMUMFZcavLYpnpCNpPHEMliCfmwuXA7CS9O1YKJ5qaV7MAZn0BdF3gHOLiwxbegnepdlSgDOH0EqbCIcwz7Rp9SS4h9U0QJRQjI-5VI/w640-h426/DSC_0338.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5a08sSKEu0f2fAvTnwKqhokngvtGt8m6-NlVezj95eoNySGSduL2t912sUZMfeCAGAnb3w6Mdgob-op02B5L70kmOkXBDOsylgNKjmDIBUbjzDneUQg3C9bT3CzZ2pTfryyI7CkWIIwnSf1ABrYTO_oJwe6CPC_W2y5PWLX515whWkPxok_OmJnvkVRk/s6000/DSC_0335.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5a08sSKEu0f2fAvTnwKqhokngvtGt8m6-NlVezj95eoNySGSduL2t912sUZMfeCAGAnb3w6Mdgob-op02B5L70kmOkXBDOsylgNKjmDIBUbjzDneUQg3C9bT3CzZ2pTfryyI7CkWIIwnSf1ABrYTO_oJwe6CPC_W2y5PWLX515whWkPxok_OmJnvkVRk/w426-h640/DSC_0335.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I did Hong Kong seams on the pants, 2 inch hems to add some weight to the drape, Betzina's fly zipper. These are a wardrobe basic. If budget allows, a black wool crepe version for winter would be wonderful. </span></b></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></b></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o-4H2eceStk3C7CsJUzrl11gjWjGCHImn-HkQtHTLKsPKB0EzNoetEiCFgkww5CH3iv6rWqheHY-OscNhLKgZEKomu2TNHoIjUWyMyq5EmBGQO7z622A1zPSEVJBAXrxBfrzOQzpY2FkBO7BYJHlZtoWAmrGeqXZA3XjQ-5YlH7E2ww5-V-J8n0Px4Y/s6000/DSC_0369.JPG" style="font-weight: 700; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7o-4H2eceStk3C7CsJUzrl11gjWjGCHImn-HkQtHTLKsPKB0EzNoetEiCFgkww5CH3iv6rWqheHY-OscNhLKgZEKomu2TNHoIjUWyMyq5EmBGQO7z622A1zPSEVJBAXrxBfrzOQzpY2FkBO7BYJHlZtoWAmrGeqXZA3XjQ-5YlH7E2ww5-V-J8n0Px4Y/w640-h426/DSC_0369.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Earth Awareness tip of the day:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4KvYbG8ju0S6Zp6KEhBKUHqmeFp8EAh_qYA_z63liOn7__VOUYEnl_QsCl0FvVMgQkKZsilA1Fu5zNirca1zh7obR0z3As9SJWIp0Kir6xlTGlRXKfrEAfjrtCjy57bamljUUNS8FSeUL3cgMf8Ea1saXbjWV9Uddm1bF9Q5bR6ppnw6TIC_Hu7_aa4/s4926/DSC_0358.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3968" data-original-width="4926" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4KvYbG8ju0S6Zp6KEhBKUHqmeFp8EAh_qYA_z63liOn7__VOUYEnl_QsCl0FvVMgQkKZsilA1Fu5zNirca1zh7obR0z3As9SJWIp0Kir6xlTGlRXKfrEAfjrtCjy57bamljUUNS8FSeUL3cgMf8Ea1saXbjWV9Uddm1bF9Q5bR6ppnw6TIC_Hu7_aa4/w640-h516/DSC_0358.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I firmly believe us sewists are the ultimate upcyclists and savers of our Mother Earth. I am going to try and share, now and then, various ways I try to implement that philosopy and maybe you can too! If you have a blog or insta, share your ideas. Whenever I am finished cutting a pattern, I take my rotary cutter and cut any leftover pieces of pattern tissue into long strips usually 2-3 inches wide. I then pile those up and cut them into small blocks. It takes only a few minutes. I keep them in this cup and use them as leader papers to start stitching on for those fabrics that may want to pull themselves down into your bobbin area and jam up your sewing momentum and your machine! Some days this cup can go down really fast, if I am working on chiffons. I am always filling and emptying it. So don't throw away your tissues. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>If you have a blog or other presences, share a way that we can help the planet with your sewing. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>************************************************************************</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBMoglDXDjGXwpxe2YJLzZD_gN06Y8lemGu0ru7tbBY3pm9gbpizxt_V-1ABYKuoUOSxpQGzPskH26L5I3FSBopnvH3yCh6GXxLGnNde_PJWZlNfzPNkn0E5JXjFcg9q4-rPzItC3xdyZzbiPeBAkWQ5Dn18UVn1o7WISzU9xPYbfVLJPgRA6wsqg9D4/s6000/DSC_0432.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBMoglDXDjGXwpxe2YJLzZD_gN06Y8lemGu0ru7tbBY3pm9gbpizxt_V-1ABYKuoUOSxpQGzPskH26L5I3FSBopnvH3yCh6GXxLGnNde_PJWZlNfzPNkn0E5JXjFcg9q4-rPzItC3xdyZzbiPeBAkWQ5Dn18UVn1o7WISzU9xPYbfVLJPgRA6wsqg9D4/w426-h640/DSC_0432.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>You may have noticed I was wearing a baseball cap in a couple of my pictures. As much as I love hats, I am not a fan of the baseball hat style but when we were on vacation in Sedona, we took a side trip to the Grand Canyon and DH spotted this beautiful hat and asked me to try it on. I loved it. He bought it for me and by doing so we helped support the conservation of the Grand Canyon. I feel good about that. It is such a worthwhile cause and I love this hat and its colorful embroidery and leather brim. He knows I can never walk away from a great hat. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*****************************</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So where have I been? Bad fall., Concussion and sprains, Lots of Ibuprofen and other meds. Post Concussion syndrome, More Ibuprofen, more pain. Physical Therapy, Bleeding ulcer and collapse from all that Ibuprofen, Scary, Strep throat which I shared with the world as we were covered in yellow haze from the Canadian fires and I thought that was why my throat was sore for 3 weeks, Shingles (horrid and yes, I've had all the shots). AND NOW I AM FINE, YAY!!! I've got this all behind, am back to gardening and feeling fine and sewing. Gotta catch up on my gardening first. We have been in so much rain, days, finally we have sunshine and it's wonderful. I feel blessed. Thank you for your patience while I dealt with all of this. Every day I wanted to write my blogpost but was not allowed to use screens, period. All is good now. Take care, all. Happy Sewing and thanks for sticking with me. Lots of great sewing to come!!!....Bunny </b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-20000681770840900112023-05-12T15:43:00.002-04:002023-06-18T19:58:21.341-04:00So very much better!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjJw61Q_6UeObDyCowTxiqhOpjY-yUKrr5mRqhU7jgqi-svFXtMgVZwKD-13miT1LoM0ilQqeGhzyqtyrdUJF2JayQDQl5bnEemp1yu5vSyEMEIDFTVCmKz-FVbFAOQFSNAVj6xpO5IUAjGQwvcv8q3D8PRdjLvGrSLHLFWS47utsNUGkm0wCrkGZ/s4141/DSC_0312.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3647" data-original-width="4141" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjJw61Q_6UeObDyCowTxiqhOpjY-yUKrr5mRqhU7jgqi-svFXtMgVZwKD-13miT1LoM0ilQqeGhzyqtyrdUJF2JayQDQl5bnEemp1yu5vSyEMEIDFTVCmKz-FVbFAOQFSNAVj6xpO5IUAjGQwvcv8q3D8PRdjLvGrSLHLFWS47utsNUGkm0wCrkGZ/w640-h564/DSC_0312.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Collar is laid on a lumpy folded piece of ponte so looks curvy on one side. It's not. </span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Well, this is a heck of a lot better. The secret is the "Magic Collar" as taught by Nancy Zieman and found in her treasure of a book, " The Busy Woman's Sewing Book." This method was suggested by thoughtful reader and commentor, Carol in Denver in my last post, one in which I complain about making a decent collar point on an obtuse collar. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is a method I remember trying back in the 80's but for some reason lost either my memory of how to use it or the reason why. Somehow it just slipped out and away from my sewing tool box. At Carol's suggestion and still dissatisfied with my obtuse collar results, I dug out my copy of this tiny sewing book. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-7n2to96VDXrPP4JzosYMKZBG6C2TjC8qbZJjnds_rDY0t2m1CCqMJpNhR__bnxq6FF1EpSSOw0iXE1e54kuHl7gV3t80d3VWtnfT7Z9WawQXliebkqRFSLePPEpfdAdNYfkwcdUM3J_AEPlKRMMbX2gdoISWC0VRhbmbHjLTj5gNl_r-T3SZqjD/s3165/DSC_0315.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3146" data-original-width="3165" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-7n2to96VDXrPP4JzosYMKZBG6C2TjC8qbZJjnds_rDY0t2m1CCqMJpNhR__bnxq6FF1EpSSOw0iXE1e54kuHl7gV3t80d3VWtnfT7Z9WawQXliebkqRFSLePPEpfdAdNYfkwcdUM3J_AEPlKRMMbX2gdoISWC0VRhbmbHjLTj5gNl_r-T3SZqjD/w640-h636/DSC_0315.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>You can see the size of this book compared to my small hand. It is chock with GREAT sewing information, like the Magic Collar. Her collar band technique is awesome as well, and much more. If you can get your hands on this little number, definitely buy it. It just got me out of the "obtuse" mess. I followed her directions, did nothing extra and it was downright easy. </b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7b0HOU97k7pqP_VJE0y7SnPcSJ0qhwOE-1DwPnhwX09hSEcHyX9N1QZrUr2kQ_U6SOA9FTj7J2AYLfitbTJPhszoIBNFg_qdfPDavUu0EBlhDVhoiydGf75bmhRq5sOuchSsO6385i8TAbCeDWEc-X_HWmgoHInoPEca4cjLFv6xfEEwrkVyR0HqE/s5228/DSC_0316.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5228" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7b0HOU97k7pqP_VJE0y7SnPcSJ0qhwOE-1DwPnhwX09hSEcHyX9N1QZrUr2kQ_U6SOA9FTj7J2AYLfitbTJPhszoIBNFg_qdfPDavUu0EBlhDVhoiydGf75bmhRq5sOuchSsO6385i8TAbCeDWEc-X_HWmgoHInoPEca4cjLFv6xfEEwrkVyR0HqE/w490-h640/DSC_0316.JPG" width="490" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I'm not going to infringe on copyright here and download the whole pages but you can see that you recut the pattern pieces for the collar, rearrange them and sew them back together in such a way that eliminates much of the bulk in the points. You only have a seam allowance on one side of the collar point, not both. The other side is simply folded fabric and elminating all that bulk makes a big difference. I did understitch the collar and it turned very easily right into the nice points you see above, no stress. Nancy, once again, has proven to be my patron saint of sewing, may she RIP. </b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Obv4lQq8HDHuu8dcTGgzKwikz-4Nu31NPgFSYxty-wy4s8MlJT6Dkk8RqHa9obA3pvNaUe5uf9h6m7oSOdj18WUjVSzkNFzPqCM95CaOU7BurVnoBvgZA-Fdqc8U7fcN4NMpCFlinpOFcUPGejp29xORowm5GYWA9mzQttL5ES1BNu82qVQKDWjU/s6000/DSC_0322.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Obv4lQq8HDHuu8dcTGgzKwikz-4Nu31NPgFSYxty-wy4s8MlJT6Dkk8RqHa9obA3pvNaUe5uf9h6m7oSOdj18WUjVSzkNFzPqCM95CaOU7BurVnoBvgZA-Fdqc8U7fcN4NMpCFlinpOFcUPGejp29xORowm5GYWA9mzQttL5ES1BNu82qVQKDWjU/w426-h640/DSC_0322.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>These are the collar pieces I cut and I have them pinned together now in the pattern envelope. Since this is a basic camp shirt style, no doubt I will make it again. Next time all will be ready to go. Don't you just love to make second and third versions of patterns that you enjoy? Tomorrow it is off to see the Red Sox, work on a prom gown hem, than back to this shirt which I am making complicated in so many ways. Stay tuned...........my new sign off.............Sewing bOlder,,,,Bunny</b></span><p></p><div><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>ETA: Major mistake on my part and my humble apology for my ignorance. I discovered that I am humbly weak in geometry. The angles of this troublesome collar are not </i>OBTUSE. <i>They are ACUTE ANGLES. Acute angles are those that measure less than 90 degrees. Obtuse angles measure more than 90 degrees. I am sorry for any confusion this may have provided and for my mathmatical ignorance as well. My collar angles are definitely acute......a humble Bunny. </i></b></span></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-64311062403896476872023-05-04T11:21:00.000-04:002023-05-04T11:21:27.407-04:00I just couldn't handle it!!!<p> <br /></p><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">I love New Hampshire. It continually shows up in lists of the Top Ten, Five and Three best places to live in the United States. I concur. Like anything else however, it is not perfect. There are two things wrong with New Hampshire that affect my daily life, well maybe three, but the third,,,,,,later. It's soil is a gravel pit. The only place with any sort of half way decent soil is along the sides of the Merrimack River which traverses the state and long spoken for by agrabusiness. Us gardening homeowners just spend our lives ammending and ammending the soil. But we dig on!</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-GiU3o0EbOU3W78hwpkpmFsD11n7ai-dahLZalRvjVcl4BfclmmpkzdeAcxGGjsnscpkhLgPRj950dm402_QLWjcOpNvUd6JDN50nHdjWX8WtuKPssBq16kdUs0XSYBNq99ls576sY2YbQlbdewrjg4IgRQs0qfJWX0u_ODOY3PzwZRXQpS2rmpo/s4900/DSC_0310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4900" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-GiU3o0EbOU3W78hwpkpmFsD11n7ai-dahLZalRvjVcl4BfclmmpkzdeAcxGGjsnscpkhLgPRj950dm402_QLWjcOpNvUd6JDN50nHdjWX8WtuKPssBq16kdUs0XSYBNq99ls576sY2YbQlbdewrjg4IgRQs0qfJWX0u_ODOY3PzwZRXQpS2rmpo/w522-h640/DSC_0310.JPG" width="522" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The second thing wrong with New Hampshire is its water. Oh, it tastes good enough in most places. Ours tastes great. The issue is that it is filled with Manganese. Manganese turns all white clothing orange-y brown. It's a slow process but when I moved here I bought lovely white fluffy towels for my bathroom. Today they are still lovely and fluffy but they are the exact same color as the bathroom walls, beige. Oh, you are thinking, she just doesn't know how to do laundry. Not so fast....When you mix bleach with manganese it intensifies the process and makes it proceed faster. We have a filter system. I use Calgon which helps some. I don't use hot on my whites as that increases the effect and I certainly don't use bleach. Believe me, after decades I know all the Manganese tricks. Bottom line, you eventually learn to buy beige towels and redecorate. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Now there is nothing I love more than a nice white blouse, WHITE! I can't tell you how many I've made and tossed eventually. I find synthetics fight the manganese better than all natural fabrics. So every year or so I need to make a new white shirt or dress or pants. This year I wanted a simple camp shirt, short sleeves, Big, but not crazy big, no collar stand as camp shirts do. I searched and searched and the very few I found just had one thing or another that made them the wrong choice. Then I started looking at pajamas! Bingo. I loved this vintage pajama top. By its measurements it was just the size I wanted, big but not too, plain collar, even darts. This would work perfectly and hey, those pants look pretty awesome as well. They will be for another day! </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Knowing poly helps I decided not to use my white linen stashed away. I went to Joanns and got some of their classic Symphony, 65 cotton 35 poly. I've sewn with it before and it makes an awesome shirt. Since this shirt will eventually hit the can, it was a minor $$$ investment as well. Now that it is mostly sewn, it looks really good. I had ONE problem sewing my camp shirt, a glaring, awful problem that left me sleepless. </b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoH_c5iFJ4SvIYUbBfcu4meukR5_9jLwUe9WWYzXxa9Dh4kjw2oamJOjWoNSti3jAJiw7Tig_8kgorkiLNy8olmUEjK4QzPx3CIAfDKgwUiFbFhZbp3mOmhGpx3BmPOBFY-vKDWEj_jfF5F8Lk3yXYUth3wOE6GPLdvSWPl6yMkmgJkXPzPjM5-n7/s6000/DSC_0305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoH_c5iFJ4SvIYUbBfcu4meukR5_9jLwUe9WWYzXxa9Dh4kjw2oamJOjWoNSti3jAJiw7Tig_8kgorkiLNy8olmUEjK4QzPx3CIAfDKgwUiFbFhZbp3mOmhGpx3BmPOBFY-vKDWEj_jfF5F8Lk3yXYUth3wOE6GPLdvSWPl6yMkmgJkXPzPjM5-n7/w640-h426/DSC_0305.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">The Collar! What drove me batty!</span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is an OBTUSE triangle collar. Now I've made some pretty nice collars in my day and they can be found throughout this blog. I use Nancy Zieman's method, one also used by Peggy Sager. Nancy has you fold the seam allowances over each other and it makes a nice sharp corner, no crazy snipping at the corners. That DID NOT work because this triangle corner was not 45 degrees or even close. It's obtuseness prevented that. You had to get fabric into a a tiny point. Let's try again. Next version I clipped the hell off the corner. Of course, one corner popped thru and the other just looked like crap. How about another. I just fiddled and fudged and came up with the version on the right. I put it in the shirt. Ay,yay, Yay, Lucy! That is the collar on the right. I couldn't sleep at night over this. Now, I do have an excuse. I will spare you the details, but my sneaker got stuck and tripped me and with other injuries I got a whiplash concussion. Sound good? I am now going to therapy, feel better and decided to face the collar again. I took it out started all over. No David P Coffin, Sager or Zieman. I got the results on the left. Not perfect but I dare you to show me someone who can make a perfect obtuse collar, dare ya , double dare ya, cuz I want to know how they did it. I think the collar points are acceptable and it will look ok on an all white blouse. Whew!</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPGgr_ihSZvjzc4esgQREacXVfxw16bq9WHEm1OqNv56dcOTNOdmtP0t9xaF9NGO4a70MgkdI-GrhAjnRaX0LwVkVZvTvd8BSL8oklxVb-8z__Ui6nhjAtjlYQj0OwbuU_m6hNbfJJ1K-FGVp-1quSQBusgLxT6DXBId0Ap12CqQ9IMKJ9hJ1OTJQ/s6000/DSC_0307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPGgr_ihSZvjzc4esgQREacXVfxw16bq9WHEm1OqNv56dcOTNOdmtP0t9xaF9NGO4a70MgkdI-GrhAjnRaX0LwVkVZvTvd8BSL8oklxVb-8z__Ui6nhjAtjlYQj0OwbuU_m6hNbfJJ1K-FGVp-1quSQBusgLxT6DXBId0Ap12CqQ9IMKJ9hJ1OTJQ/w640-h426/DSC_0307.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I hope you can see this coat clearly. It's tough to photo black. I find myself doing more and more tailoring with my side hustle but I am enjoying it. I miss doing all that I did back in the day when I wore nothing but suits to work. I tell some people I don't do it but I do what I did in NY, cultivate a handful of lovely, repeat customers who appreciate my skill set and are a delight to work with and reward me justly. What you see with this classic all wool beautifully tailored coat is the shoulder that I took and inch and a half out of. I dealt with sleeve heads, shoulder pads, taping, lining, all the fun stuff. It came out beautifully. I remembered how much I enjoyed doing this type of thing. Now to raise the hems. My client actually bought a coat that she fell in love with that was too big. She is tiny and I get that. We tinies don't have lots of options. I think I know a few women who have done the same with shoes! </span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Back to the machine. Can't wait to show you the white shirt when done, part of an outfit, linen pants, hopefully painted! </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Oh, that third NH thing? Live free or die! Don't get me started on Free Staters!</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Happy Sewing............Bunny</span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-57477867790370058722023-04-21T08:08:00.001-04:002023-04-21T08:08:10.285-04:00Two blouses, Two Ways, Simp 9469<p style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>The Pink</i></b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b></b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsrHF00H0evKWmyQjlsSm1ScfWE9VCajmKdeN4tcjXs6DV7znEDn2vGHWK3ocg5wTjHiexIyq9jN_sXl3BFj2T7zf9BEv7BRaw-pL9O7z0c-IfhlBOgLoOX6_cN2KXElvXTikkJsNN1mB1KxDUZizT4QEc7G2N5NlfNJ68bTcRICFQP9WcdB6cPY2I/s4907/DSC_0291.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3994" data-original-width="4907" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsrHF00H0evKWmyQjlsSm1ScfWE9VCajmKdeN4tcjXs6DV7znEDn2vGHWK3ocg5wTjHiexIyq9jN_sXl3BFj2T7zf9BEv7BRaw-pL9O7z0c-IfhlBOgLoOX6_cN2KXElvXTikkJsNN1mB1KxDUZizT4QEc7G2N5NlfNJ68bTcRICFQP9WcdB6cPY2I/w640-h520/DSC_0291.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The Blue</i></b></div></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzI7U4FApzKRIFfoZsffAfiemLSlC4BKvqJIR7f3cqiZErEm83FNpjfJEi-2pTDg8mepyqhZKmvCjm_kM341m7UfTzpb--afkYdxKInyCmnUIWIPl8GUmI4OFwZcUxH4aXf-vtUZAi17QLVdhu7kvoUIh42DV8D3eygJvC2n0kbT3nIdQq9GwtagE/s3248/DSC_0279.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3248" data-original-width="2932" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzI7U4FApzKRIFfoZsffAfiemLSlC4BKvqJIR7f3cqiZErEm83FNpjfJEi-2pTDg8mepyqhZKmvCjm_kM341m7UfTzpb--afkYdxKInyCmnUIWIPl8GUmI4OFwZcUxH4aXf-vtUZAi17QLVdhu7kvoUIh42DV8D3eygJvC2n0kbT3nIdQq9GwtagE/w578-h640/DSC_0279.JPG" width="578" /></a></div><br /><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The fabric is the same. The colors, and a lot more, are different. I told you I planned to try different techniques with this lovely pattern to see how they would work out on this lightweight fabric. So let's start with this fun comparison! </span></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Fabric:</i></span></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The fabric is 100% cotton lawn from Joann Fabrics. It is something I have never seen them carry before and it actually flew out of the store. It wasn't a one shot wonder either as it continues to be restocked. It comes in soft prints and a nice group of pastel solids. I fell in love with this blue but then the pink showed up at a great sale price. I decided to challenge myself with various techniques on the same fabric and pattern. It is lovely fabric. I washed and dried it on warm, which is quite hot in my solar fed tank. It came out needing just the slightest ironing and no shrinkage! Love this fabric. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Pattern:</i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiGq2Qbr8AycL1HFLEjbHg-OVlHXFSlmrvu5sEWjyCV41KhZE7L4sYjFRjCLgNGYurMyD1Q6T5gK-Hzt4XsXTI9JdLN9TsHO12ALGTnTmB3ID6qOy5RNrdHQaDtx4AHiG5DMkJNGQ8p_YEszu_Hlok5qF8OMAuoJLAkD0VsX29TRkFxBO5a90C9bK/s639/DSC_0176.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="426" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiGq2Qbr8AycL1HFLEjbHg-OVlHXFSlmrvu5sEWjyCV41KhZE7L4sYjFRjCLgNGYurMyD1Q6T5gK-Hzt4XsXTI9JdLN9TsHO12ALGTnTmB3ID6qOy5RNrdHQaDtx4AHiG5DMkJNGQ8p_YEszu_Hlok5qF8OMAuoJLAkD0VsX29TRkFxBO5a90C9bK/w426-h640/DSC_0176.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">For both tops I used <a href="https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s9469">Simplicity 9469</a>, view D. I was inspired by the version made by <a href="https://youtu.be/2MRwJY5PoFI">Lucy of Sew Essential youtube videos</a>. Her's was so lovely and it looked fairly simple which it is. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The blue version is made pretty much as the pattern directs. The pink blouse is made with what I thought were good ideas. They are not necessarily better but they are not the same as the pattern. The pink version definitely took more time. I will go thru the construction of each and you can see how they differed from what is really a problem free pattern that gives great results. The directions were clear and no mysteries. I think a beginner willing to try their hand at an interesting neckline would be able to handle this blouse nicely.</span><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The blouse had generous ease and I did not find it necessary to do an FBA when I flat pattern measured. </span></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Construction</i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Neckline:</i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The blue "stuck to the pattern" version required an interfaced facing. I gave thoughts to numerous options as discussed in a previous post. I did samples. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6VDYZFW6PPMPigGI1fT-9dCP5WX017Rj5amiA59AeKJSLtTlLhhRQC0zCgvq7CIrHXgevJzKSFWHL3PAfWZvrMTOeuSZflW69k1qGA-tRCLHhDdkPjqZHLBdi7p-hRjnvpwPDYaaEcxpMMCJUeo-H7wOYgZDjHBiMp43AjfLyDK5q4r-VlOtocPE/s5441/DSC_0189.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3994" data-original-width="5441" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6VDYZFW6PPMPigGI1fT-9dCP5WX017Rj5amiA59AeKJSLtTlLhhRQC0zCgvq7CIrHXgevJzKSFWHL3PAfWZvrMTOeuSZflW69k1qGA-tRCLHhDdkPjqZHLBdi7p-hRjnvpwPDYaaEcxpMMCJUeo-H7wOYgZDjHBiMp43AjfLyDK5q4r-VlOtocPE/w640-h470/DSC_0189.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">In the end, the winner was a classic interfaced facing of fashion fabric. If I did an interfacing of just FF, the print design showed thru. With the white backing, compared to other options, I had the least amount of show thru. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipJ086My6nXSmm-79T22awa5DiStU4fIKPzCzj6V3v1thNt6feb7Km8YhYva5zTRDK753dOLibXKDDJt_l3uy3k0n2DaPGJJlHtWQYas6lQ-2qnDi0X2owgrYLuHO_JgG3G6HpfIip2Ve5SpzsBwCitjm2rydJprshyem102XcHzk0fxm9zm4s0o2A/s4886/DSC_0267.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3203" data-original-width="4886" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipJ086My6nXSmm-79T22awa5DiStU4fIKPzCzj6V3v1thNt6feb7Km8YhYva5zTRDK753dOLibXKDDJt_l3uy3k0n2DaPGJJlHtWQYas6lQ-2qnDi0X2owgrYLuHO_JgG3G6HpfIip2Ve5SpzsBwCitjm2rydJprshyem102XcHzk0fxm9zm4s0o2A/w640-h420/DSC_0267.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The facing was stitched on the collar edge and around the keyhole, then graded and clipped. I used a preshrunk woven cotton fusible interfacing. The edges of the facing were turned and stitched. You can see that print transfer thru to the top is not an issue. As always, I triple zigzagged for the understitching of the facing and ditch stitched in the well of the shoulder seams. It is not going anywhere. The edges were crisp and pretty when done. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidfbtSQCW2NQgKvwavF4oJkpJddmi-7gXThKmvx4bI3wc0JelcZfEJZ-oCQLLES33na0N7AucdLDZy17HC4GTz7rfncIuACUyHP8Bq8RrBk1IWd4JHLe6B1Eau4G9PUfPCMZlss5TQz7wEJ0w5-E5dYU-HbTjCyCixjurxPur3YCqi1-s4mLQD9fTy/s1415/DSC_0172.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1363" data-original-width="1415" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidfbtSQCW2NQgKvwavF4oJkpJddmi-7gXThKmvx4bI3wc0JelcZfEJZ-oCQLLES33na0N7AucdLDZy17HC4GTz7rfncIuACUyHP8Bq8RrBk1IWd4JHLe6B1Eau4G9PUfPCMZlss5TQz7wEJ0w5-E5dYU-HbTjCyCixjurxPur3YCqi1-s4mLQD9fTy/w640-h616/DSC_0172.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">There is something important to be aware of here. It isn't clear on the instruction sheet but on the facing pattern and bodice piece you will notice that the transition from the keyhole to the neckline is a flat seam where you fit in the ties. See above. This flat space gets a 5/8ths seam allowance like the rest of the neckline/keyhole seam, therefore, that edge enlarges. Later, when I was doing the pink top I thought for sure the fabric was off grain as my top just wasn't lieing right and had odd wrinkles. It wasn't off grain. It has to do with the fact that when you sew a 5/8th inch seam allowance on each side of the keyhole you now have a 1 1/4 inch space that the ties need to cross. I was pulling my ties to meet together at the tip of the keyhole/neckline point and it was pulling my top totally off grain. Once I let the top of the keyhole lie flat, as it was sewn, and the ties tied to let them meet the way they were sewn, the blouse draped just right, no pulls or drag lines. So, don't pull your ties tight, just tie them as they lay, as they are in the pics on this post. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">On to the pink neckline!</span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NDVMmVjKABii4_9EN4iAKLm14dANldihn6uEL-NCSHm_KDwcqe7h8P77UzQ0KtJ1ttKrOI5SbV8X68p6UFq0BtVRL1vBZEb1nFlIGfSR3vg02ga7u7M1wWIrjVNPJrwTHszA9FKM7zN78tOfQCq_9GVIQmUNh2K4vNMDf_ny92bMJMX4mgPg87K7/s6000/DSC_0191.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NDVMmVjKABii4_9EN4iAKLm14dANldihn6uEL-NCSHm_KDwcqe7h8P77UzQ0KtJ1ttKrOI5SbV8X68p6UFq0BtVRL1vBZEb1nFlIGfSR3vg02ga7u7M1wWIrjVNPJrwTHszA9FKM7zN78tOfQCq_9GVIQmUNh2K4vNMDf_ny92bMJMX4mgPg87K7/w640-h426/DSC_0191.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Remember, the pink version is not according to pattern instructions! The first thing I did was make the keyhole smaller. On my petite torso, I found the keyhole, as designed, was really too low for my short body and a bit of cleavage shown. It certainly was not a big deal but it was a surprise. Upon checking Pattern Review, I found I was not the only one with this issue. I didn't reshape the keyhole. I simply took a 1/4 inch SA to make the hole smaller and it was just right! On the pink top the neckline and keyhole are bound with double fold bias binding and the ties are bias tapes. This was all definitely more work but pretty as well. I double folded the bias and pinned to the keyhole so I could steam in the shape. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicImm_3e4rMAh29CXIWGq4DuLblWO3gbpF6okuWJCH7LdYmCA_fO_pt5hBfwNSfJpAjd4muQK7KwAASqNsCRa2PWtZUBwc5LGBGA9ZlKiIbAOsAsdRWGhsQQ9GpINTkRpcqXp8mJ3O3oMw2oT6NjiUeC1nvpgCzevwoyL554hgZFn4c48oFT-wu2sK/s6000/DSC_0197.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicImm_3e4rMAh29CXIWGq4DuLblWO3gbpF6okuWJCH7LdYmCA_fO_pt5hBfwNSfJpAjd4muQK7KwAASqNsCRa2PWtZUBwc5LGBGA9ZlKiIbAOsAsdRWGhsQQ9GpINTkRpcqXp8mJ3O3oMw2oT6NjiUeC1nvpgCzevwoyL554hgZFn4c48oFT-wu2sK/w640-h426/DSC_0197.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I hand basted it first then stitched it to the hole. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gvMqZa6239pZBRHAEH4rGEb_gH2SSGbIwig5m4b1j6-FrUk62FHBgbIiqkVFgLhFrJFFki-6D-P-wKsCpySsw3jdC2uVynbIFSK_g04bfGdg96ZJQfGnaTBJoo5Kyg7_FyBVaSZRr9e5V74S-coOjaIOuZsRYNUecTmTAsU6zu_RaQHKnVyPCTR8/s6000/DSC_0199.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gvMqZa6239pZBRHAEH4rGEb_gH2SSGbIwig5m4b1j6-FrUk62FHBgbIiqkVFgLhFrJFFki-6D-P-wKsCpySsw3jdC2uVynbIFSK_g04bfGdg96ZJQfGnaTBJoo5Kyg7_FyBVaSZRr9e5V74S-coOjaIOuZsRYNUecTmTAsU6zu_RaQHKnVyPCTR8/w640-h426/DSC_0199.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I pressed the bias toward the hole and away from the seam. I did not trim the 1/4 inch seam allowance. The plan was to wrap the double fold bias over the SA and hand stitch in place. I used my Acorn glue in tiny dots and ironed it all down. It worked beautifully to keep things in place for hand stitching. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7nfTgAFROSxSWfTWJA1f-Zuxfx6aFWFflylu81SuvnSfzanR2aHI1UKhhvF83vFz0ssVsZBJ7x6x8D8NOeiY6hYUFyacuqaGxHM8wWoJNGMOp9ayNwbRcTY9-Y3wxCybs2noreGEh-HoQogY4cblVVqNkL7-385c1yZ7SrrLm-Im4teuza-65L81Q/s6000/DSC_0202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7nfTgAFROSxSWfTWJA1f-Zuxfx6aFWFflylu81SuvnSfzanR2aHI1UKhhvF83vFz0ssVsZBJ7x6x8D8NOeiY6hYUFyacuqaGxHM8wWoJNGMOp9ayNwbRcTY9-Y3wxCybs2noreGEh-HoQogY4cblVVqNkL7-385c1yZ7SrrLm-Im4teuza-65L81Q/w640-h426/DSC_0202.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;">I then hand stitched it down on the underside. The neckline was treated similarly and the bias ties attached. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Seams:</span></i><br /><br /></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">On both blouses seams were stitched with French Seams. It had been a long while since I worked with such a lightweight fabric and when I started on the pink version I remembered my dear friend and amazing sewist Kathy Dykstra's method for getting 1/8th inch French Seams on your garments. She is an incredible teacher highly skilled. I really wanted to achieve that here and with her lesson I did. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7JUpNzvWBLdvyO87NlzIVQJpXAA-ryBpKAMeoUxjzVZCmjGZzr1e2lJNvRnKvz6c_omqdxl8PCNtW7NhQ1SHNjZo46JJ99iQ9vCkztHBKG27WCEGL5Br6iRUFjWJqWKFXHSiC6qZkoV9eCLlh7W8nTLqXTnHE0pPHlwOdBM6XDX_hi1xGGUqNBKSr/s5254/DSC_0206.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5254" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7JUpNzvWBLdvyO87NlzIVQJpXAA-ryBpKAMeoUxjzVZCmjGZzr1e2lJNvRnKvz6c_omqdxl8PCNtW7NhQ1SHNjZo46JJ99iQ9vCkztHBKG27WCEGL5Br6iRUFjWJqWKFXHSiC6qZkoV9eCLlh7W8nTLqXTnHE0pPHlwOdBM6XDX_hi1xGGUqNBKSr/w640-h488/DSC_0206.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Kathy is a respected nationally reknown heirloom sewist and educator. She has great teaching videos on youtube that can interest all sewists, like <a href="https://youtu.be/LDNdXxSRXio">this one on 1/8th inch French Seams.</a> I followed her instructions exactly and as you can see, they are one eighth inch wide and not a hair over! Thanks, Kathy, once again, for sharing your expertise with us all. Check out her videos at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@kathyssewingstudio/videos">Kathy's Sewing Studio channel</a> . You can also amaze yourself with her skills and garments!</span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Hems:</span></i></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9o95-f8D0kGZnmE4vODBTsG1ZxE09-F18alK46e9zM8Uq0KKelcBoF3HobJCI-V4m7WdhP670ScmmR-aZR4jGyrlVnmBOJ3362CHJ4oP_-yGAaOdHsLMHQOzVKwvhliY2Zz70D7bK7uo9qpzGpzsn7zPdYqnEdpwwuUUMWPQreSUddM2dfFMlJ0Ux/s4090/DSC_0249.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3936" data-original-width="4090" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9o95-f8D0kGZnmE4vODBTsG1ZxE09-F18alK46e9zM8Uq0KKelcBoF3HobJCI-V4m7WdhP670ScmmR-aZR4jGyrlVnmBOJ3362CHJ4oP_-yGAaOdHsLMHQOzVKwvhliY2Zz70D7bK7uo9qpzGpzsn7zPdYqnEdpwwuUUMWPQreSUddM2dfFMlJ0Ux/w640-h616/DSC_0249.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />The blue blouse got the tiny Kenneth King Hem which you can find in my tutorial tab above, easy peasy and fast. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></i></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-style: italic; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOPEUrA83EkSLQmAKR6QTqyJdcHij3i5RBzRGrpcoGM6PlhRDZt98XyrZqYH1tONGrhwoSbUrPqDDobFfbabJpCo11yphCl3q6o5hKJQSvQ-iV_gj9vUKB0lSNMO0gm_fjBVHnUBHm_ZeMu9ZDWDj8roGbrsS1I_muUpgz-cmbnp_rXVjzyoyNZTT/s3196/DSC_0252.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3087" data-original-width="3196" height="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOPEUrA83EkSLQmAKR6QTqyJdcHij3i5RBzRGrpcoGM6PlhRDZt98XyrZqYH1tONGrhwoSbUrPqDDobFfbabJpCo11yphCl3q6o5hKJQSvQ-iV_gj9vUKB0lSNMO0gm_fjBVHnUBHm_ZeMu9ZDWDj8roGbrsS1I_muUpgz-cmbnp_rXVjzyoyNZTT/w640-h618/DSC_0252.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The pink hem was deeper, 1 1/4 inch and serged. It was then double topstitched on the public side. </span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Ties:</span></i></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2Upk4n7XbGbI3wSD3BCD0X4YM7SvxyWeFV55KkWPQjcc1yDqasEhWs9Gpcn_2shh70xHdUFPCHSwqRIoPklqwwfJSaLM1tGHcwmt-2QZ0dTYewluAdi5p0XXpR2J3n4hTHAcqRhuXbZ_7CVDOPvzqJHPRuIOC98G1ritdsgd96iOgIifj_ZNd37F/s3717/DSC_0264.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2958" data-original-width="3717" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2Upk4n7XbGbI3wSD3BCD0X4YM7SvxyWeFV55KkWPQjcc1yDqasEhWs9Gpcn_2shh70xHdUFPCHSwqRIoPklqwwfJSaLM1tGHcwmt-2QZ0dTYewluAdi5p0XXpR2J3n4hTHAcqRhuXbZ_7CVDOPvzqJHPRuIOC98G1ritdsgd96iOgIifj_ZNd37F/w640-h510/DSC_0264.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Ties on the blue version were simple bias rouleau ties. I did nothing to the ends as they are bias and should not fray, for now anyway! I love their roundness!</span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IFNwwrxeBK6Ql_FcJ-rLQUCB-ScIWD86E4sfBZ3n_DZFlqGzool9-tz2wifjxqsjWakaxVuc5tAYmhz2VwBq1QEPPCHLDslZgIy1vU9PMOfCit9r4SPt-1HoB0B8VTDT-xl-V669SkRk83y2ZAIrrnpASlftkHmsHEGWWcacR7zbzP-RGCKd3NXI/s4340/DSC_0262.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3537" data-original-width="4340" height="522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IFNwwrxeBK6Ql_FcJ-rLQUCB-ScIWD86E4sfBZ3n_DZFlqGzool9-tz2wifjxqsjWakaxVuc5tAYmhz2VwBq1QEPPCHLDslZgIy1vU9PMOfCit9r4SPt-1HoB0B8VTDT-xl-V669SkRk83y2ZAIrrnpASlftkHmsHEGWWcacR7zbzP-RGCKd3NXI/w640-h522/DSC_0262.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Since the ties on the pink version were flat bias tapes I tied them off in a simple tight little knot. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b><span style="font-size: large;">Cuffs:</span></b></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Last but not least, we have the cuffs. As directed on the pattern, the blue top recieved the gathered elastic hem on its sleeves. Lovely and soft!</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi93dWKGSQVJ6ez0Bo65J_tc7KD2DSExaezcQ_00MVD5xhGyxBbkIP-xO-AdVbRrJ8vLu9KV6oUzqxkT5A4hplibKZB9l7JBbbye3v2jlYtaIM9au2zJaF8MxsnvQZSxbv2z_hnOsnbWV-MXOMGL-Hyj2K5nfJcECu2RNcD3NsESlKJ-nLJ84nVURZ2/s5235/DSC_0265.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3042" data-original-width="5235" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi93dWKGSQVJ6ez0Bo65J_tc7KD2DSExaezcQ_00MVD5xhGyxBbkIP-xO-AdVbRrJ8vLu9KV6oUzqxkT5A4hplibKZB9l7JBbbye3v2jlYtaIM9au2zJaF8MxsnvQZSxbv2z_hnOsnbWV-MXOMGL-Hyj2K5nfJcECu2RNcD3NsESlKJ-nLJ84nVURZ2/w640-h372/DSC_0265.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The pink lovely recieved more traditional cuffs, which I don't seem to have a pic of! So sorry. The were simple, 1/2 inch wide flat strips with the sleeve gathered into them. They were just wide enough to slip over my wrists.</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>MY OPINION OF IT ALL:</i></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JNuQm38--cRhBk_AgIpKCLblxk04MyrqrAfU9_jgUqk3Yvm2qR7x0FbX3FlDskYa2E1X2y5_JowdSSzr05m9tait7chahWwWGrqYjKCMaaX7yl4MF_Ssa1dclW5gsCQUw944L1V81gLENOaNV5xX5AbfQ-emn5z4YOKkDjhThlANL305VxIyyVOs/s4829/DSC_0281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3916" data-original-width="4829" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JNuQm38--cRhBk_AgIpKCLblxk04MyrqrAfU9_jgUqk3Yvm2qR7x0FbX3FlDskYa2E1X2y5_JowdSSzr05m9tait7chahWwWGrqYjKCMaaX7yl4MF_Ssa1dclW5gsCQUw944L1V81gLENOaNV5xX5AbfQ-emn5z4YOKkDjhThlANL305VxIyyVOs/w640-h518/DSC_0281.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In summation, this is how I would make this blouse a third time. I really like the clean look of the interfaced edges of the blue collar as the pattern directs. I also like the rouleau type of ties which I did get by using my Fasturn tube turner and leaving in the seam allowance to fill up the tiny tube. Next, I like the softness of the gathered, elastic sleeve hem as well. It just sort of goes with the comfort of it all and I it actually is more comfortable than the stable pink cuff. As for hems, I always prefer a good deep hem with some double rows of stitching as the pink blouse had. I would definitely choose to go that way. These would be my suggestions and choices and I hope they help you make yours. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">This is a lovely patterns in a comfortable, feminine fabric, perfect for summer. This pattern offers some slight variations for sleeves and necklines. My one caveat would be that the keyhole exposes perhaps a bit more than you might expect. The fit gives you a nice fitting shoulder effortlessly along with a bodice of generous ease for comfortable summer wear and fit. I highly recommend both pattern and fabric. </span><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;">*****************************************</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div></span></div><div style="font-size: x-large; font-style: italic; font-weight: 700; text-align: left;"><i style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">If you have made it this far I will leave you with a textile treat. While in Sedona we took a side trip to the Grand Canyon. While there, we spotted this GORGEOUS Pendleton blanket, one of a series made specifically for the National Parks of the United States. Each park has its own commemorative blanket and we thought it would be a wonderful memory of a great trip and a lovely legacy for our children. We hope to collect more of these blankets in our travels. The colors of this blanket are spectacular, a true work of art. We learned a lot about the Pendleton Mills, their mutually beneficial relationship with the local Native Americans and appreciate their woolens even more now. This is a queen size 100% woolen blanket. It is on display on our Lake Placid rocker. Enjoy! and thank you for bearing through my rather long treatise on blousemaking. </span></b></i></div><div style="font-size: x-large; font-style: italic; font-weight: 700; text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></i></div></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLyPSQe5EDAVFZ19HySyEMn50_YTFvWDZR3l1GF5d4xIiWcpDENCEyJCO6culD_jB1cHqhQ_40ZzDxoul_DtkJJA3rSp0TkLfsXhaB6vAV-2hmu_Wjtac_stqSayA6K2bnh3V94-AGYBGkNHY29DEnNm0bazTeZ0b1KSpS2mWGKyYXJT-ma8rbUhb/s6000/DSC_0298.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLyPSQe5EDAVFZ19HySyEMn50_YTFvWDZR3l1GF5d4xIiWcpDENCEyJCO6culD_jB1cHqhQ_40ZzDxoul_DtkJJA3rSp0TkLfsXhaB6vAV-2hmu_Wjtac_stqSayA6K2bnh3V94-AGYBGkNHY29DEnNm0bazTeZ0b1KSpS2mWGKyYXJT-ma8rbUhb/w426-h640/DSC_0298.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPs4eWseSHP0ljthEVzhaAFCo8X86Qs0kjg-T8obkgh5nN4ou5AxqQwykkJolAzuLWe5XcO6eF1zGZT21mniS0YbKBb5T3BOGGMinddrLavgHQDUJFncVWXMsWBMmji9FD3lubfoRvT1c1yahYvyolSl0lid1BLzH3_3OudY6mAVnwE5wYkOWJqZA1/s6000/DSC_0299.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPs4eWseSHP0ljthEVzhaAFCo8X86Qs0kjg-T8obkgh5nN4ou5AxqQwykkJolAzuLWe5XcO6eF1zGZT21mniS0YbKBb5T3BOGGMinddrLavgHQDUJFncVWXMsWBMmji9FD3lubfoRvT1c1yahYvyolSl0lid1BLzH3_3OudY6mAVnwE5wYkOWJqZA1/w426-h640/DSC_0299.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><i>Happy Sewing!</i></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-81559963324435662172023-04-06T19:42:00.008-04:002023-04-10T18:10:15.830-04:00My Azorean Inspired Floating Scarf<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlniEO-pwpcFwYccs1OSofxN8ZFC9ctnV4acxH1GWYuMXGfzbYo_bMxz_v0wA5H1UgtYFRzcuHtuIdLir5_rSVH0JziLpqXRKwek9HeIttlKO4k7tyR3BDJYg4U_Ox_cLI1lcRJ4CdKSP4eWD-1gN7ck6Hqj4zRM2SeCasiQ5FDGQPQKfbzSX3eDhS/s4650/DSC_0238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4650" data-original-width="3942" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlniEO-pwpcFwYccs1OSofxN8ZFC9ctnV4acxH1GWYuMXGfzbYo_bMxz_v0wA5H1UgtYFRzcuHtuIdLir5_rSVH0JziLpqXRKwek9HeIttlKO4k7tyR3BDJYg4U_Ox_cLI1lcRJ4CdKSP4eWD-1gN7ck6Hqj4zRM2SeCasiQ5FDGQPQKfbzSX3eDhS/w542-h640/DSC_0238.JPG" width="542" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I was inspired to make one of these scarves from the minute I saw one in a designer boutique in Punta Delgada in Sao Miguel in the Azores Archipelago last summer. The scarf and all that this designer showed was so intriguing. While I could not come near making any of her other very unique offerings (more later), I could attempt this unique scarf. </span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Well, it's just a pashmina, you say. Not quite. First let me tell you of my inspiration. It starts with the islands of the Azores. They are verdant beyond belief but not tropical. Lush foliage and exotic plants abound wherever you go. Life is simple and most people farm or fish. There are more cows than people and the cows are everywhere. So are the thousands of blue hydrangeas, every imaginable shade of blue, with big giant mopheads. They line the roads, walkways, just everywhere and are breathtaking. It is a photographer's paradise. In my research I found that the designer of the Azores Collection, Isabel Roque, collaborates with a photographer. He captures this breathtaking paradise and then the two of them work up his photos into fabric which Roque then designs into simple garments, incredible bags, and other small accessories. She had masks, headbands, you name it. I thought her creativity really shown in her bagmaking. Most of her work consisted of photos of the Azorean flora and fauna printed on viscose, which really fooled me into thinking it was silk. These photos were sometimes made super gigantic . Check out this simple apron for a typical example. </span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/82250684_915147632332871_2841583428951543181_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=NiCco2-xGQ4AX-mdVc6&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-1.xx&oh=00_AfBtSVsV_aspI-J2rteoMGD7rFaZHymN_fddlfUjKcFpPw&oe=6456C95C" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="421" height="800" src="https://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/82250684_915147632332871_2841583428951543181_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=NiCco2-xGQ4AX-mdVc6&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-1.xx&oh=00_AfBtSVsV_aspI-J2rteoMGD7rFaZHymN_fddlfUjKcFpPw&oe=6456C95C" width="421" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">But her bags are her real star, printed on viscose and permantly pleated into tiny litle pleated squares, so hard to describe and so beautiful, very very unique. The facebook page for My Azores Collection will show you some of their work. </span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlz0deusKJsivzQ6xHbjDwBpF61bp9FJkqD6xsqpHd1H-nFJAkGY4Us7d0pioshjPDFxFYvt0OXfG7wjd6iw3dj8myasQhIk4-7xY23tqHQ7v-rX0-NX4IPn4TijAro4JROdepS0G8hOkzPurjeFrSwau6rqchhB59sPIJVAOtRWkKikHAlsRmy2hN/s4775/DSC_0237.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4775" data-original-width="3280" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlz0deusKJsivzQ6xHbjDwBpF61bp9FJkqD6xsqpHd1H-nFJAkGY4Us7d0pioshjPDFxFYvt0OXfG7wjd6iw3dj8myasQhIk4-7xY23tqHQ7v-rX0-NX4IPn4TijAro4JROdepS0G8hOkzPurjeFrSwau6rqchhB59sPIJVAOtRWkKikHAlsRmy2hN/w440-h640/DSC_0237.JPG" width="440" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Back to my scarf! This boutique was in the airport in Punta Delgada. I saw the scarves on a rack and started trying them on and loved them. They consisted of solid pashmina type foundations. On top was another rectangle made from the silky viscose chiffon, again with a fabulous bit of photography. I made note that the rectangle panels all seemed to have high contrast images, no small prints are anything blurry or confusing. These photos were loud, clear and sometimes assymetrically placed oversized versions of what was captured, stunning. After my try on binge I went and wrote down every detail I could about the scarves as I knew I would make one. I noted seam types, sizes, placements, etc. The most important aspect of the scarf was that the silky rectangle panel "floated" above the surface of the foundation's solid base. The sides of the rectangle were open and the top and bottom were stitched down with hidden stitches. I am not going to give exactly how to make this. While I could and do have it all written down in great detail, I just don't think it would be right to pass that along on the internet for the whole world. I think it is something else for one person to see a piece of great clothing and attempt to emulate just one for themselves but not dissect it and pass that along on the internet so you won't get much more from me. I respect this designer's creativity too much and really admire what I have seen of her work. It is so fresh. </span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LDSwAQhkIQyeS2r0vWJrRpS11CloYwViVnRlm8Rqzze-hG7x2fNbZBK24riaAoYYEGyulGbw7w4FVaRfTV7JlRuh928I6b-Y-tnXAaaf852SLCZkQhSA8vh4t2E1XxFy1ggAS5ZEN-5zR6dvYyj9F5ukVmsz8j-_yBrHpZoY8qadjZS5xaVzw11B/s5277/DSC_0158.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5277" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LDSwAQhkIQyeS2r0vWJrRpS11CloYwViVnRlm8Rqzze-hG7x2fNbZBK24riaAoYYEGyulGbw7w4FVaRfTV7JlRuh928I6b-Y-tnXAaaf852SLCZkQhSA8vh4t2E1XxFy1ggAS5ZEN-5zR6dvYyj9F5ukVmsz8j-_yBrHpZoY8qadjZS5xaVzw11B/w486-h640/DSC_0158.JPG" width="486" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The effect is when wearing the scarf, o the chiffon panel appears to just float over the surface as you move around. </span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jtMjYRBCjHMeg5_DHd8dsGa5QMbfBwpvVaA9TnDxCXfRrYWdJWlTSfVCtKMJEpZH8BWK1qw1k1N9qgEAiGKIY2PcWjFBJ_DNqfr-g6BRbLAGF48CtQTSdIQcBVOaVmoKZSrBmdFQFNmLiV9Myef8IkAxfRdEyF2ZyFJkloAfnsPO95RXlsPj7FX-/s5807/DSC_0164.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5807" data-original-width="3280" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jtMjYRBCjHMeg5_DHd8dsGa5QMbfBwpvVaA9TnDxCXfRrYWdJWlTSfVCtKMJEpZH8BWK1qw1k1N9qgEAiGKIY2PcWjFBJ_DNqfr-g6BRbLAGF48CtQTSdIQcBVOaVmoKZSrBmdFQFNmLiV9Myef8IkAxfRdEyF2ZyFJkloAfnsPO95RXlsPj7FX-/w362-h640/DSC_0164.JPG" width="362" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I can't tell you the wonderful comments I have recieved when wearing this scarf. It does go well with my frumpy Toaster dress and black boots. I think the most critical part of the project is finding the right chiffon. Mine is actually a poly I ordered from Emmaonesock. I used the wrong side for the public side as you can see above. I think that adds even more intrigue. My base is a Donna Karan pashmina I picked up and really never wore. I have now been wearing it a lot. I am thinking of doing something similar with linen and rayon for the summer. We shall see!!! It wasn't easy finding the right sheer yardage. I think<a href="https://www.emmaonesock.com/fabrics/87953?catId=127&sectId=101"> this one </a>could work beautifully. It is from EOS and much in tune with the originals I saw. </span></b><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://d1n6qhrg971suf.cloudfront.net/images/silkpanel_SR013-4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://d1n6qhrg971suf.cloudfront.net/images/silkpanel_SR013-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I hope you enjoyed this little trip across the ocean to my inspiration story and it's result and maybe even give it a try. It was a really fun adventure to make and see if I could pull it off. I think I did. Happy Sewing...................................Bunny</span></b></p></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-69690172337307144342023-04-05T17:34:00.001-04:002023-04-06T07:52:24.171-04:00A Tale of the Toaster Sweater. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGqoH7MXrSAK9fpul7RGNMgDVltyxSkUEkX2EJgORRancvu--P-twxwTNNMBjOxZQpjEwO_zywqXwthREWuPJSIuFMbcGn8BdT48x5QOGG8ZflF_62E5hvDJffT1SJOyrP1rS8rK_4kYa35IYGyfcm39Mten38ptqH6oGJcHzK6G8_4AZseqfimVL/s2744/DSC_0224.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2208" data-original-width="2744" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGqoH7MXrSAK9fpul7RGNMgDVltyxSkUEkX2EJgORRancvu--P-twxwTNNMBjOxZQpjEwO_zywqXwthREWuPJSIuFMbcGn8BdT48x5QOGG8ZflF_62E5hvDJffT1SJOyrP1rS8rK_4kYa35IYGyfcm39Mten38ptqH6oGJcHzK6G8_4AZseqfimVL/w640-h514/DSC_0224.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Well, here I am in Simplicity's version of indie Sew House Seven's much touted Toaster Sweater. It is <a href="https://www.etsy.com/market/simplicity_8738">Simplicity 8738.</a> I don't think I've ever taken a sit down photo before for the blog but there's always a first, right? Truth is, I made this into the Toaster Sweater Dress. Thanks to the modern miracle of photography, I learned my hem is too long, way too long. You can't see my cute boots, which I love, for one thing. The length is very unflattering and will get chopped tomorrow. I would like to wear this on Easter. It is comfortable and soft. It's maybe not a breath of lilac and daffodil colored Spring but hey, we have piles of ice and snow still in the yard, big enough to prevent us from using the back door! Here's a little more info. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern:</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is <a href="https://www.etsy.com/market/simplicity_8738">Simplicity 8738, </a>their knockoff of the Toaster Sweater. It seems to carried on Ebay, Etsy, and other sites that carry vintage or OOP patterns. This is vintage???? Well, may be just Out Of Print, aka, OOP. Here are my thoughts.</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKEY-nDpBVZno-AkHrDStLy9UZSgAzArBjGzyoXeQO11zuV75Lz8tGWzxoR-x7OaZ99VKfBYHxjmgYNxEYVkx4g8h7g-WyhtT0erWh4qBaQnYJNpp3OF2TaiFgczN18ouxsgC2p6a1bVGT0FOzxKcvEovPqu7eS_z2aoHx0FhxEdrOzoVJbqSue5x/s4630/DSC_0227.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4630" data-original-width="3492" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKEY-nDpBVZno-AkHrDStLy9UZSgAzArBjGzyoXeQO11zuV75Lz8tGWzxoR-x7OaZ99VKfBYHxjmgYNxEYVkx4g8h7g-WyhtT0erWh4qBaQnYJNpp3OF2TaiFgczN18ouxsgC2p6a1bVGT0FOzxKcvEovPqu7eS_z2aoHx0FhxEdrOzoVJbqSue5x/w482-h640/DSC_0227.JPG" width="482" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I actually made this as a sweater, not a dress, initially in a pink jacquard knit that I really liked. It stretched way beyond the needed amount of stretch on the pattern so I was more than good to go. That top was OK except for one thing. I could not get it over my head. I sewed the neckline as specified. I used a zig zag stitch. The stretch of the fabric was more than needed per the pattern and that thing would not go over my my head. I literally took it off. It wasn't quite on, actually, as it was stuck on my head, and I cut the collar off and stitched the neckline in a bigger hole. That made the initial sweater wearable. When I went to make the dress, I, again, made sure I had more than enough stretch factor, per the pattern. <i> </i>I cut the neckline hole larger again and sewed it with stretching stitches. It is still snug but I can get this dress over my head. Who establishes the stretch factor? Did I do a wrong thing? My fabrics had more than enough stretch per the little stretch test on the pattern envelope. Ok, so that's my biatch about the pattern. I am the one who did the lengthening so all of that is on me. </b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vpeGV3ISlmbIRmomwQCjvFocwTPCpOGLYuR3qvZsYnHlbXhWGDN2fdgKWp2gSwg6BVPBbYim-2dDCY47NaaldPTKU694XyDmnhitiUTWX2LjZopws0WGtTI3UcT8gl2BoI7KCBIP2ckLYhcUbIsvAbUrXV1JBIbpPB6ivkNROViWHpaSlYJDWphR/s4717/DSC_0230.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4717" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2vpeGV3ISlmbIRmomwQCjvFocwTPCpOGLYuR3qvZsYnHlbXhWGDN2fdgKWp2gSwg6BVPBbYim-2dDCY47NaaldPTKU694XyDmnhitiUTWX2LjZopws0WGtTI3UcT8gl2BoI7KCBIP2ckLYhcUbIsvAbUrXV1JBIbpPB6ivkNROViWHpaSlYJDWphR/w542-h640/DSC_0230.JPG" width="542" /></a></div><p style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>I am going to shorten this substantially. Maxis do nothing for me, as you can tell, here. The red arrow line shows about where I want to cut it. The other issue with this pattern, which you can see a couple of pics up. is how the slit I put in just flows open in an unintentional way. I am thinking of adding a gusset/triangle at the top of the slit to control it a littl better. It is not flattering at all the way it is. I don't know why it swings apart like that in a curve. I will do the hem first and see what happens. </b></p><p style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>I did try a belt with this style and it looked frumpy. A shorter hem and no belt are the way to go, me thinks. </b></p><p style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is a French Terry that I bought at Fabric Place Basement in Natick, Massachusetts. Love that place! My sis and I try to go there twice a year to do some seasonal shopping. It's a huge shopping op for fabric, live and in person. You must take advantage if you are ever in the greater Boston area. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">In Conclusion:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This pattern definitely had some issues for me, some by my own feeble design attempts. I am going to try and fix that. I can tell you it is a big mooshy sweater with the right fabric and is so comfortable and cozy. Don't hesitate to try this pattern, whether you use the Simplicity version or the original design from Sew House Seven, whose designs I really like. Just watch the size of that neckline and your stitching techniques as well. </span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>*********************************************************************************</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFYFXuvzU9bdM7anYhKnLYpkng1HU25uj5_hGkq3DJeRb0pkVlKDYwGL71Sq9Rrf9e0T0YuA2KVBwezFwhH2ia4-y0rVBQV0VxH_qj_nROZddQ6JdDBeoxkuPAacVi2eqFPuFQy6W3zyd43-BA5soO9PgMpbiysiT7LV7OXdspzSpp3XVFmJ3vaxh/s640/IMG_0251.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFYFXuvzU9bdM7anYhKnLYpkng1HU25uj5_hGkq3DJeRb0pkVlKDYwGL71Sq9Rrf9e0T0YuA2KVBwezFwhH2ia4-y0rVBQV0VxH_qj_nROZddQ6JdDBeoxkuPAacVi2eqFPuFQy6W3zyd43-BA5soO9PgMpbiysiT7LV7OXdspzSpp3XVFmJ3vaxh/w480-h640/IMG_0251.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">My husband and I, along with our daughter, her husband and our grandchildren, just came back from a fabulous vacation in Sedona, Arizona. We managed a very wild and exciting Pink Jeep tour and this pic is on the top of one of the many mountains we "jeeped" and hiked. Such beautiful, exquisite country. We loved it and did a lot of travelling, hiking eating, touring, etc. It was wonderful, all with family. Great to be back and bless you all. Happy Sewing.............Bunny</span></b></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-82966635007025628902023-02-22T21:13:00.004-05:002023-02-23T22:05:00.534-05:00A tale of two techniques - What would you do? <p style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The minute I saw Lucy of the vlog Sew Essential <a href="https://youtu.be/2MRwJY5PoFI">wearing this blouse</a> I fell in love with the design. It was just so pretty and also so simple looking to make. It's feminine, would cover my skin from the summer sunshine* but still has that little peekaboo keyhole opening in the front bodice. The full sleeves would make it quite comfortable in the heat of the season. This would have to somehow become part of my summer wardrobe. While I am not a jeans wearer at all, I suddenly craved a pair of straight legged, high waisted jeans in the darkest wash I could find just to wear this shirt, like darling Lucy. One step at a time! </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*(You may remember my bout with squamous cancer and the fact that melanoma runs heavy in my family. My sweet baby brother just got over his third serious bout a few weeks ago. I am now ever conscious of being comfortably covered in the sun.) </b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiGq2Qbr8AycL1HFLEjbHg-OVlHXFSlmrvu5sEWjyCV41KhZE7L4sYjFRjCLgNGYurMyD1Q6T5gK-Hzt4XsXTI9JdLN9TsHO12ALGTnTmB3ID6qOy5RNrdHQaDtx4AHiG5DMkJNGQ8p_YEszu_Hlok5qF8OMAuoJLAkD0VsX29TRkFxBO5a90C9bK/s6000/DSC_0176.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiGq2Qbr8AycL1HFLEjbHg-OVlHXFSlmrvu5sEWjyCV41KhZE7L4sYjFRjCLgNGYurMyD1Q6T5gK-Hzt4XsXTI9JdLN9TsHO12ALGTnTmB3ID6qOy5RNrdHQaDtx4AHiG5DMkJNGQ8p_YEszu_Hlok5qF8OMAuoJLAkD0VsX29TRkFxBO5a90C9bK/w426-h640/DSC_0176.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>My first step was getting the pattern, <a href="https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s9469">Simplicity 9469</a>, a simple matter of waiting for a sale at Joanns! As my planets lined up I had to wait thru a couple of sales before I was able to pick this up but that was taken care of and now it was fabric time! Or will it be jeans? I went for the fabric first because I came across the lovely 100% cotton lawns now being carried at Joann's. I particularly like the prints mimicing the Nani Iro prints from Japan. I fell and bought a lovely blue version. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYc5Fr6zyWI9bhju0sO3Cfd67xftl3p1YKKHrC0uC2bga3ir0AT8ExyN6fU4zImUKmg8onMMDcK5b5_5uBNJPdf1rusVX2ps9tDSdD-CpsPIsXwFQc2SGihmNpqfWblLD_t3MiazdoVQareniTAzsbVFAJFon1EyTJOGSZ_QNZs3ZS0Br-HmnT4ua2/s6000/DSC_0181.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYc5Fr6zyWI9bhju0sO3Cfd67xftl3p1YKKHrC0uC2bga3ir0AT8ExyN6fU4zImUKmg8onMMDcK5b5_5uBNJPdf1rusVX2ps9tDSdD-CpsPIsXwFQc2SGihmNpqfWblLD_t3MiazdoVQareniTAzsbVFAJFon1EyTJOGSZ_QNZs3ZS0Br-HmnT4ua2/w640-h426/DSC_0181.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>It is soft, really pretty, not sheer but very light and it washed and dried beautifully. I had no shrinkage at all except for the selvedges. We used to run into this a lot with custom drapery fabric and the workrooms would always cut the selvedges off before even thinking of cutting the fabric. I will do the same here as it tightens up and could distort any pattern pinned on the edge. This was only one selvedge on one side! Other than that it was lovely perfection. But, but,,,,,, yesterday I was in the store and the lovely lawns were on sale for a dollar less per yard than the original sale price i had paid. How could I walk away from that? </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSju0hoP8Sgl9yg7cNv9CvNFmIWo9C_YQqgwYhu-VKjQnKKdPyCoo0CZwM-D84fmQ_7BEYNzH0DwldeHgSKJptcPMtywQyb72VLk0i_Vc5kt336vPNEzrC5kRcfrq9Sb1snMoQ99_0o3ug3f2VST345k08vRMaena2ymJY0mC-VgqcA19q4M4e5Dx/s6000/DSC_0180.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSju0hoP8Sgl9yg7cNv9CvNFmIWo9C_YQqgwYhu-VKjQnKKdPyCoo0CZwM-D84fmQ_7BEYNzH0DwldeHgSKJptcPMtywQyb72VLk0i_Vc5kt336vPNEzrC5kRcfrq9Sb1snMoQ99_0o3ug3f2VST345k08vRMaena2ymJY0mC-VgqcA19q4M4e5Dx/w640-h426/DSC_0180.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I bought a pink splotchy version. I plan on making two of the same shirt now, but just how will I make them? That's my dilemma? </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>You see, from the get-go I envisioned the keyhole and the neckline to have a tiny bias binding with long ties that would be tied in soft little loops like Lucy's. I also wanted and assumed there would be flat cuffs for the sleeves. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFQLrkFQ0MTTxnDeUXFcIMeJTKj230Pa8wqtBgLSrsFHCkGHVXO-zFvfMQ94mij3yNbPpcg9PqMszRdDeUL4KPQ8I5rwamelLJYzqYOjDziaenEw2pO3oqVZnZEN4S1-dOc-xvpoy34HZmBCi8h5N0B7ZoztrmyDRR3ZcVsq2Q8xhQ3rcUgnidlP-/s4437/DSC_0175.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4437" data-original-width="3971" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFQLrkFQ0MTTxnDeUXFcIMeJTKj230Pa8wqtBgLSrsFHCkGHVXO-zFvfMQ94mij3yNbPpcg9PqMszRdDeUL4KPQ8I5rwamelLJYzqYOjDziaenEw2pO3oqVZnZEN4S1-dOc-xvpoy34HZmBCi8h5N0B7ZoztrmyDRR3ZcVsq2Q8xhQ3rcUgnidlP-/w572-h640/DSC_0175.JPG" width="572" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>That is not what the pattern has in mind, however. But, first, let's get something straight. I have no issue with facings at all. I know some do. That's them. I've made them for years and I have bound edges for years. Makes no difference to me skill wise. Now, stylistically, that's a different story. I had in my mind this delicate, floaty wisp of a shirt with teeny bound edges, French seams, etc. You can see in the pattern directions, which are perfectly fine, that is not quite what I would get if I follow them. </b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I had more in mind what I saw in <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2014/02/18/video-how-to-bind-a-sheer-edge">this tutorial from Thread</a>s Magazine and <a href="https://www.emmaonesock.com/guides/kbsheerperfection13.asp">this other one from Emmaonesock. </a></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So, that is my dilemma. I have two pieces of lovely fabric, perfect for the pattern design. Here are the pros and cons of the methods. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Pros of Pattern Method: </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> *If I just understitch, the keyhole and neckline would have a really clean turned edge. I like that idea a lot. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Interfacing will offer support for the neckline and keyhole area which will in turn offer some support to the xtra weight of the puffy sleeves. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Cons: </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * This is a fussier construction, in my opinion, with more steps.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Possible show thru of the facing to the top of the garment. Don't know yet. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Pros of Tiny Binding Method:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Delicate looking, in line with the delicacy of the color and print. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Would accentuate the near sheerness of the fabric. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Would not take as long to do as the facing treatment. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> Cons:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * No support offered for any area. Tips of the keyhole will really droop if not tied tightly. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Would be harder to correct mistakes. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Would look almost sheer and thin. Not sure if that is good or bad. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b> * Would it look cheaper? Not sure.....</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So, here is what I have decided............I am going to try each technique on each of the shirts. I think. Deal breaker would be my first shirt is so fabulous I will just stick with that method. The first shirt will be the blue one, with facings. What would you do and/or what do you think?......Bunny.......my threads are ready for your answers! Happy Sewing!</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV2LABp-s-9afwwtgRP_TM_aoJycQqIFPU3RSGktJw6u_nP8HdWA4LRpZG59FqgL93g3OP9pnCV4VCJy13c07bO0b-JU-DuyR2OW8FJRuxY8pX--sH2rnL-Lv3_JfWl0dGzV4yuPozav4FX6NIUTn_cXFHirl5e3ck7bdhr5M_WG-wGeZxl5zNJ-ZC/s3891/DSC_0184.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2932" data-original-width="3891" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV2LABp-s-9afwwtgRP_TM_aoJycQqIFPU3RSGktJw6u_nP8HdWA4LRpZG59FqgL93g3OP9pnCV4VCJy13c07bO0b-JU-DuyR2OW8FJRuxY8pX--sH2rnL-Lv3_JfWl0dGzV4yuPozav4FX6NIUTn_cXFHirl5e3ck7bdhr5M_WG-wGeZxl5zNJ-ZC/w640-h482/DSC_0184.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-469266861140264192023-02-07T15:24:00.007-05:002023-02-09T09:12:42.340-05:00Vogue 9338, Epic Drama ending with Love!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhao4JrfDxga4y1WiIEZXYg0o8YyI7zaPiCFF1f0_kwyJ9OO7FXyepC3zusAWIf1Nbh8Qec9csqguhK6q6bkszFT-Izu0GWaQ8R0rMkNZfalw4JCwSNR_qtB0Xqt0eJPvjSPPZy364Hngwnn5quVHBbQZmGNJPlQCxA3Zq-DreKVMHadvkvJbDYNos7/s6000/DSC_0118.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhao4JrfDxga4y1WiIEZXYg0o8YyI7zaPiCFF1f0_kwyJ9OO7FXyepC3zusAWIf1Nbh8Qec9csqguhK6q6bkszFT-Izu0GWaQ8R0rMkNZfalw4JCwSNR_qtB0Xqt0eJPvjSPPZy364Hngwnn5quVHBbQZmGNJPlQCxA3Zq-DreKVMHadvkvJbDYNos7/w640-h426/DSC_0118.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Before we begin, all of the photos you will see have been HIGHLY corrected for contrast due to the black color of the jacket. It literally soaks up any light available and any detail along with it. So everything other than the points I am trying to make with the pix may look a bit off and my apologies extended. Now-----</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This was one epic drama to make, starting out being quite fun. I had this idea in my head for a long time and kept missing my sale opportunities on this Vogue pattern. I had a little bin of hand dyed fabrics begging for attention and I had this gorgeous piece of Pendleton wool for their backdrop. It glowed with loveliness, which doesn't transfer well with all of my contrast correction. Eventually everything came together. I checked the reviews on Pattern Review and all were fans with only one maker commenting about a "fiddly ...but doable" neckline issue. I proceeded. I'll say now, love my completed jacket. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric: </span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The black jacket fabric is a beautiful Pendleton woolen that came with several others inherited from a sewing legacy of a dear friend or from a local yard sale, hard to remember which. We had a Pendleton fabric factory very close to where I live until a few years ago so these fabrics often show up on tag sale tables at pennies on the dollar. It is gorgeous fabric with the glow of 100% pure wool. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The small appliques are also all wool. The geometrics came from our LQS, local quilt shop and the others were hand dyed by me over the years. I appliqued them to the jacket by machine and left the threads hanging. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The jacket is lined with , I think, what I found in my lining bin and is maybe the Anti static lining from Joanns. I have had good luck with that and use it when I can't wait for Bemberg to come in or don't have enough in the stash. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The Hong Kong seams are made with your basic 1/4 inch gingham in black and white. I think it is probably a poly cotton blend. I haven't seen all cotton gingham in ages. </b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbCSyrgxgOh6Ep2kGTkLjWfcCmxUfkCcnfw9CCjUDgdmxsDuIvVHAu8PRfXWkgR0Mm0RjlYxkgjs0z3S1Tj8poiCcREzqL3MApqdcdcrEoi4OXenPIlfGzXpyhilRhfaIM2VpMvxNJCyASrNg3FzIQjNk0fmvkyDtwe83C7krKbItxtLLWVim0rZx/s4033/DSC_0121.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3986" data-original-width="4033" height="632" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbCSyrgxgOh6Ep2kGTkLjWfcCmxUfkCcnfw9CCjUDgdmxsDuIvVHAu8PRfXWkgR0Mm0RjlYxkgjs0z3S1Tj8poiCcREzqL3MApqdcdcrEoi4OXenPIlfGzXpyhilRhfaIM2VpMvxNJCyASrNg3FzIQjNk0fmvkyDtwe83C7krKbItxtLLWVim0rZx/w640-h632/DSC_0121.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">This pattern is<a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/vogue-patterns/v9338"> Vogue 9338.</a> The jacket is a blend of simplicity and complication. The bodice has no closure and is not lined. I am toying with adding thin ties to it but will make that decision after wearing it a bit. It has what I have been told is a "swan neckline". The bodice reaches up a bit up the neck which I think is flattering. It is not enough to turn and is not a shawl collar. It lengthens your look which for a petite is a great thing. The hemline is straight across but I chose to change that up with a slit and a one inch difference between front and back. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> It is the sleeves that are magnificent here and quite different. I will go thru each part of the jacket in a moment and have a lot to say about the sleeves and collar. I have a lot to say about the pattern as well!!! Here we go!!!</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO39S1hw2-G_hSJOh_uZGJO-KP1LP1FODkfCeTK7oQ5MHssX-MskX9NTKdz-FAmCOmdv8os9gl04QoKc8BLmKRUUVHDVdd0wvrfxe2tog9y2pu0OgPhroLWD15nYy-qxHHpSxKQNDVxiLs1GIFoJIRx5YPLdTRzKU8DDrjRQUPlAKBzc4h1MlKPwGa/s6000/DSC_0126.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO39S1hw2-G_hSJOh_uZGJO-KP1LP1FODkfCeTK7oQ5MHssX-MskX9NTKdz-FAmCOmdv8os9gl04QoKc8BLmKRUUVHDVdd0wvrfxe2tog9y2pu0OgPhroLWD15nYy-qxHHpSxKQNDVxiLs1GIFoJIRx5YPLdTRzKU8DDrjRQUPlAKBzc4h1MlKPwGa/w640-h426/DSC_0126.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I decided to underline this bodice and treat the sleeves a bit differently as you will see. I cut the bodice fashion fabric and underlining layers and stitched the back bodice pieces together first. For the front bodice, I did not do that. Instead, I figured If I was going to applique all those pieces to the front I should do that first and that way they would be hidden under the underlining. Then I realized that while I was doing that I might as well do the two bust darts as well and hide them. Next bright idea was to add a pocket on the side opposite the appliques and put some appliques on that to balance it all out. I did all of that and then attached the underlining by stitching all the edges together like I did on the back bodice. I had everything nicely done and covered with the underlining, sweet! I added my Hong Kong seams to all and did my hems as well. You can see I made the front hem shorter and added a split, just for interest. </span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_KYbvhXgjxvP5Twkqlp0BR2rACl9e0H5ThQEDCLLgvN8W3mn0w517oyzwRHIk_g8-4_31onyo4X6ICUifGKt0iGXJFyCfePkHZhOInItbSNjKQxVSHNlflYXP15WDhott8Cf_qcpiweUp2b2_j55WqhPrsowd_F-pQ3RjBqhzdeWpqgI7WwOI0nV/s6000/DSC_0124.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx_KYbvhXgjxvP5Twkqlp0BR2rACl9e0H5ThQEDCLLgvN8W3mn0w517oyzwRHIk_g8-4_31onyo4X6ICUifGKt0iGXJFyCfePkHZhOInItbSNjKQxVSHNlflYXP15WDhott8Cf_qcpiweUp2b2_j55WqhPrsowd_F-pQ3RjBqhzdeWpqgI7WwOI0nV/w426-h640/DSC_0124.JPG" width="426" /></a></b></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Now it was time to move to the.................................COLLAR.</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-HyMclM6d9OAig--45skkzC5dYYyxHR532kpyjoZKPiLTBR_Q_6yWYx3jyk7hhFeywskRQiXp26AAkaAX3hzG3B6JphaP4wRIliQTAPWz0F3yr756cEZUwy28pJxSrPKxKjbRpfvSnehChRq7Bkp4aWMkA9SJT7IgQ-FkDBh9hm8jmVmRYPiQGkq/s6000/DSC_0033.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-HyMclM6d9OAig--45skkzC5dYYyxHR532kpyjoZKPiLTBR_Q_6yWYx3jyk7hhFeywskRQiXp26AAkaAX3hzG3B6JphaP4wRIliQTAPWz0F3yr756cEZUwy28pJxSrPKxKjbRpfvSnehChRq7Bkp4aWMkA9SJT7IgQ-FkDBh9hm8jmVmRYPiQGkq/w640-h426/DSC_0033.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I sewed the collar together at center back. This collar extends from the bodice front. I sewed the facing at center back. I then sewed the facing to the jacket. It all matched perfectly at notches and dots up to the shoulder seams as it should. Then I was left with these two short pieces, at that time connected by a center back seam, to make it around the back bodice. Let's see what I had. </span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmITr8dq2xnljSNcvidghdl16jNEJOgmyDNgbPqI_ySijanJ5hd-N7-BnCM_AwnRMO7Edi0KA3W8OIgFnFqy9S4xoP_BBy7qd2jJyNzblbzOaR8ZHYS69MtKwlZASifoitQpdzWdIGpedm0NcX_jv1l_To8j3Li7CFNMCA0wrptEg9FoBhRGSSEu4/s6000/DSC_0074.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmITr8dq2xnljSNcvidghdl16jNEJOgmyDNgbPqI_ySijanJ5hd-N7-BnCM_AwnRMO7Edi0KA3W8OIgFnFqy9S4xoP_BBy7qd2jJyNzblbzOaR8ZHYS69MtKwlZASifoitQpdzWdIGpedm0NcX_jv1l_To8j3Li7CFNMCA0wrptEg9FoBhRGSSEu4/w640-h426/DSC_0074.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see the collar coming from the bodice at left and the facing at right. They are the same size, good. From the shoulder seam to the center back seam measures 2 1/2 inches, a total of five inches. I proceeded to pin this to the back bodice. No way in hell did it fit. Well, Claire Shaeffer taught me how to steam wool and get it to fit almost anything and I did. I shrunk that back bodice edge until it fit my collar, stitched it in and tried it on. It forced the whole garment up into a weird configuration that doomed it for my town dump. I steamed. I pressed. Nothing made this work. I measured my pattern, I read the directions over and over. I checked sizes. Did I cut wrong? You name it. I wondered and thought. It was a Blivit, that ole joke about ten pounds of crap going in a five pound bag. Well I had 7 inches of wool going into a five inch strip of collar. Of course, I mightily thought when I had steamed and stitched it all in I had succeeded so had graded and trimmed the whole horror. Now I sat and cursed each ripped out stitch. I ripped them all out and walked away for several days. I can't remember when I have been this frustrated. That is when I started decluttering my studio. After a few days I returned. </span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsBEbSg4AVghNjeq0YQGsfTGgRPb-tsoGDc_d_03Cx3GbGjanBHishHJoMS1HjbiFZ16WuFebShse4wHUbXQuBp0KM3e9p7z4QvVWi5VIM1Vfs3XTIKnspSLn6VnXUOWyW8g_QGKVlYWjmdmch8if2cWHWm33lVTcJvslJrfRN5bNxshhNF90mbr6/s6000/DSC_0035.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsBEbSg4AVghNjeq0YQGsfTGgRPb-tsoGDc_d_03Cx3GbGjanBHishHJoMS1HjbiFZ16WuFebShse4wHUbXQuBp0KM3e9p7z4QvVWi5VIM1Vfs3XTIKnspSLn6VnXUOWyW8g_QGKVlYWjmdmch8if2cWHWm33lVTcJvslJrfRN5bNxshhNF90mbr6/w640-h426/DSC_0035.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I started by first opening the shoulder seam as it starts to rise up the neck for about an inch and a half. I inserted one of my bits of wool to make a gusset. </span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQq_UfBMn44O4elIB0m5LwUFJEczV3xeXSKhlwRxggEfYGsabnDX9NfhcfPsW3UrLhlf3bR0A10wLQpwsa_GXI27NNlrEFAotKXGB8G9qEKu2ZEjGQI8EIPvKs5MkPllUQ9vWTtt51V4DrJPYj5A-DyoQa2lBziKNLGSvh6-MaSLSnyzctdM2C8gp/s6000/DSC_0039.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQq_UfBMn44O4elIB0m5LwUFJEczV3xeXSKhlwRxggEfYGsabnDX9NfhcfPsW3UrLhlf3bR0A10wLQpwsa_GXI27NNlrEFAotKXGB8G9qEKu2ZEjGQI8EIPvKs5MkPllUQ9vWTtt51V4DrJPYj5A-DyoQa2lBziKNLGSvh6-MaSLSnyzctdM2C8gp/w640-h426/DSC_0039.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I stitched that in, first basting then by machine. Next I cut a strip of bias wool and fused woven interfacing to it and cut that to fill the remaining space of the collar/facing. I needed to equalize the density. I folded and pressed this where a seam would have been originally. It all fit nicely onced stitched into the jacket and trimmed. It even got the Hong Kong edge treatment. But, I did not like those seams showing on the back neckline outside. I decided to stick with the program and cover them with some appliques as well. I think in the end it worked out well enough. I was drained. On to the .....................Sleeves!</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PYQ-6a6-EeTHoPC2zhi_Iu74TEY60xpYXllEI0PfvYS2Q9kOjU7z8CjkpUpNp4pudxSbJtmnLKIhXH18B2kyd9wmzLYN8SepA7i8GVziwNvDdmLBipdIzC9_Hyt2azr3fly-m1Vwg2JTYT9Is9WgO32WzMj8A8B5a6fxfMXV0UeOPVdRTNBZSU9e/s6000/DSC_0130.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PYQ-6a6-EeTHoPC2zhi_Iu74TEY60xpYXllEI0PfvYS2Q9kOjU7z8CjkpUpNp4pudxSbJtmnLKIhXH18B2kyd9wmzLYN8SepA7i8GVziwNvDdmLBipdIzC9_Hyt2azr3fly-m1Vwg2JTYT9Is9WgO32WzMj8A8B5a6fxfMXV0UeOPVdRTNBZSU9e/w640-h426/DSC_0130.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><span>Sleeves</span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxHa0XFw1GQQttwYaEm1UnE-gLY6qeXXw7N-SRI7dayxj757WJssPI__Py1NFHCTpuLTa7JlELRqf_HMH_DxSG8XLNfhBPk0BcjoISn9RAbTRoCyBCf3TQYJk5FZG_31iJhdJhUz6OEzEoJR1Rbccy3lNHgFOtqnwtHgXI1j7pP_lJc-mQl-9XRt3/s4000/DSC_0117.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2887" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxHa0XFw1GQQttwYaEm1UnE-gLY6qeXXw7N-SRI7dayxj757WJssPI__Py1NFHCTpuLTa7JlELRqf_HMH_DxSG8XLNfhBPk0BcjoISn9RAbTRoCyBCf3TQYJk5FZG_31iJhdJhUz6OEzEoJR1Rbccy3lNHgFOtqnwtHgXI1j7pP_lJc-mQl-9XRt3/w462-h640/DSC_0117.JPG" width="462" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">These sleeves are amazing and if they weren't in black you would really see just how amazing a lot better. Trust me here. I had a lot of fun with these. I have thoughts regarding my petite perspective as you will see. </span></b><p></p><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tan8eBZkOLKQK7wzNtTs74oTLc_DKBfBegHdncILaNHrJzMVkWVK5T7SgNq8UefUkdluA-9KGLWWRyi3bx_vO66PpRpxt4V3umLwUKe6YG-qMsXVzS_U_pzNEKtg2krVBRtN6SbGcwfQjaUJ5IF7vWlJX6jTn-0eN7oPK_cfynUVRqZjLLQjWUyi/s6000/DSC_0088.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tan8eBZkOLKQK7wzNtTs74oTLc_DKBfBegHdncILaNHrJzMVkWVK5T7SgNq8UefUkdluA-9KGLWWRyi3bx_vO66PpRpxt4V3umLwUKe6YG-qMsXVzS_U_pzNEKtg2krVBRtN6SbGcwfQjaUJ5IF7vWlJX6jTn-0eN7oPK_cfynUVRqZjLLQjWUyi/w640-h426/DSC_0088.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Here is your unique sleeve. You can see it is just short of a yard wide at the bottom and a little less at the top. THERE IS NO GATHERING. All fullness is controlled with pleats. Keep in mind I am dealing with midweight wool here, nothing light about it. I made decisions based on that and also on what I saw in reviews. I chose to underline the sleeve only a bit over a third of the way of its length. This would provide ease in slipping on and off (it does) and not add to the bulk. In the sleeve cap those two lumps are ONE PLEAT that covers your shoulder seam completely. It provides a beautiful drape. HOWEVER, on this petite, after stitching, I realized it was an issue. I am very narrow of torso and shoulders and the fold of the giant pleat had nothing of my body to support some of its width and it stuck out weirdly. I checked reviews and everyone elses looked fine. ETA: If I made this again, I would do a petite adjustment by taking an inch out of each of those bumps with a wedge tapering to nothing at the cuff. I think that would eliminate the Judy Jetson triangle effect that happened due to my narrow shoulders and torso. 02/09/23.</span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhj5sB__Nws2zlo35jMQ1c9bsD456XTace8XDG_gg3nH3RtnQwljfVQrrJjagc4NlCTrgP3kpjVgIieNUZRKo1U5P0ILNR1q7mlQIiSpxCVuwkg0dBbcReN-4fVeB4aO4C1m_XYlqyB4gySkNNiiw8WrtyqcXJ7JUX0ZC2WbIBLA9y853vZzXFPQ0/s4847/DSC_0100.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3993" data-original-width="4847" height="528" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhj5sB__Nws2zlo35jMQ1c9bsD456XTace8XDG_gg3nH3RtnQwljfVQrrJjagc4NlCTrgP3kpjVgIieNUZRKo1U5P0ILNR1q7mlQIiSpxCVuwkg0dBbcReN-4fVeB4aO4C1m_XYlqyB4gySkNNiiw8WrtyqcXJ7JUX0ZC2WbIBLA9y853vZzXFPQ0/w640-h528/DSC_0100.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">This weird triangle of fabric stuck out from the armscye. It was much more prominent in real life and looking straight on it stuck out very weirdly, not like in the pic above which makes it seem flatter. Soooooo, what I did was open the seam where you see the red dashes and shove in that extra triangle of fabric until it all layed smooth. </span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVKdI6hav1w4eG9VUg5uGuXX4yUHj_4SLulGIK91JmtS2MDCIxXBROGvLeD6teSH0ntuDuIBPmBzNh0jV_1bSmX2sAP0P3TC25sxS1ThENCYSCMpNKw1gNeXTLqF5ZWvvFsNcOC4xgVqhqw1up1qP4LK8etYAQW3wN7EP_-yA3g_xhGw4uEZS0KvB/s6000/DSC_0101.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVKdI6hav1w4eG9VUg5uGuXX4yUHj_4SLulGIK91JmtS2MDCIxXBROGvLeD6teSH0ntuDuIBPmBzNh0jV_1bSmX2sAP0P3TC25sxS1ThENCYSCMpNKw1gNeXTLqF5ZWvvFsNcOC4xgVqhqw1up1qP4LK8etYAQW3wN7EP_-yA3g_xhGw4uEZS0KvB/w640-h426/DSC_0101.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I cut off the triangle and everything was fine. Did that on both sleeves. If you are very narrow shouldered and/or petite, be aware of this possiblity. That big tuck is gorgeous in the drape it creates. Next are the cuffs. </span></b></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIibS8iKMrNcxeq4uJTIpVvKVI524az2ioQGuYIne9yVejKLeHY-e4vzJZvsHa-sHOKO_NhSneihnE9kUOxAZzFq0q-60H_xzLNvqcoMj_segYCfNV__YvuFLPGJuXPzaFX18uBQYw0qoz5_bcmdJ71XZMH8KR7E6JYj6W6F6SMOQw-_YvMghY44XI/s6000/DSC_0096.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIibS8iKMrNcxeq4uJTIpVvKVI524az2ioQGuYIne9yVejKLeHY-e4vzJZvsHa-sHOKO_NhSneihnE9kUOxAZzFq0q-60H_xzLNvqcoMj_segYCfNV__YvuFLPGJuXPzaFX18uBQYw0qoz5_bcmdJ71XZMH8KR7E6JYj6W6F6SMOQw-_YvMghY44XI/w640-h426/DSC_0096.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Above you can see my markings for the cuff area. What the pattern has you do is basically a french binding. It is a double folded piece of fabric, stitched to the edge of the pleated cuff, ALL turned to the inside and "slipstitched" down. These looked like rope on a couple that I saw and I was not going to deal with or have that bulk. With my fabric I would have bulk under the best of circumstances and suggest that a French fold binding would only work here with the thinnest of fabrics. Here is how I handled things. </span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I marked my pleats with thread and tiny clips and a chalkoner. I did the lines because they are slightly angled as they move across the bottom of the sleeve. They are not all the same width either so pay attention to this . They were all basted in. </span></b></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOq-fx8T2e7rEOxI_Muk4UoVCM8lIndVbDbVDJWBA-pW-i54GjV1kZOJCYS0u-KlSvfKTkiHEm2EbpwnHaJLHYy0e2NoCs_XrMelHeEEQSXpjBwH1sjjuddQsdbS61hKV430Sn2M_jKk9Njrzb9eHvQguAhEFtt41ehnhECjtU2t--mqNDryayzGN/s6000/DSC_0091.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOq-fx8T2e7rEOxI_Muk4UoVCM8lIndVbDbVDJWBA-pW-i54GjV1kZOJCYS0u-KlSvfKTkiHEm2EbpwnHaJLHYy0e2NoCs_XrMelHeEEQSXpjBwH1sjjuddQsdbS61hKV430Sn2M_jKk9Njrzb9eHvQguAhEFtt41ehnhECjtU2t--mqNDryayzGN/w640-h426/DSC_0091.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I sewed a one layer strip of wool to my cuff area once all the pleats were stitched in. The seam was graded. I pressed them toward the facing. They were then understitched with a wide triple zigzag, the better to smoosh down all that bulk. The edge of the wool was pinked. I am thinking at all time, "keep the bulk down". This was then turned to the inside and carefully pressed. The edge was not turned under. </span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzR1WNcSPpP-ie_gBI-sGjWcXQ1JxUR_0ZKlvKAH6asNtCZ06Ql7YnL8dFvdxmQwx2cJP17Rmh9jVx0m_GWQ3VNSP2S-HlmRtSMoWUxuFAy2Qjs8YfKFcE9Qs6oC6oyiUybuUbIR6n5GoDorGRUlleDGBrI8sNGT4Y007yanXQi7z2RMhYVlSfnHK/s6000/DSC_0105.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzR1WNcSPpP-ie_gBI-sGjWcXQ1JxUR_0ZKlvKAH6asNtCZ06Ql7YnL8dFvdxmQwx2cJP17Rmh9jVx0m_GWQ3VNSP2S-HlmRtSMoWUxuFAy2Qjs8YfKFcE9Qs6oC6oyiUybuUbIR6n5GoDorGRUlleDGBrI8sNGT4Y007yanXQi7z2RMhYVlSfnHK/w640-h426/DSC_0105.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Then it was carefully catchstitched to the pleats, only going thru one layer. I think they are a beautiful design feature. </span></b></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0JpQCaM-yksZ9T3Q-N_mdy6ItPRW44JdZD4337NC8qFtsUwzcYOiNXSXqVJpbh5IzAtQPIBYn7_okFdJ4u_J7omGDdPt44O87XnXx5WY62ncIfZASfwQnYVInIy0aClxXkeMywUNLNdHFVCt0UD1x2-5WtdsG3KDYgBl1ZBeiQs74FN1e79v52qY/s6000/DSC_0094.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0JpQCaM-yksZ9T3Q-N_mdy6ItPRW44JdZD4337NC8qFtsUwzcYOiNXSXqVJpbh5IzAtQPIBYn7_okFdJ4u_J7omGDdPt44O87XnXx5WY62ncIfZASfwQnYVInIy0aClxXkeMywUNLNdHFVCt0UD1x2-5WtdsG3KDYgBl1ZBeiQs74FN1e79v52qY/w640-h426/DSC_0094.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Is this Joseph's Technicolor Coat or is just my epic drama of light amongst the midwinter darkness? You be the judge. All I know is that I now love my coat of many colors and look very forward to starting some spring projects. I have one more simple ( oh, the famous last words ) winter project and then I am moving on! Happy Sewing...............B</b>unny</span></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-8156375686834340642023-01-18T10:47:00.002-05:002023-09-08T20:10:58.998-04:00So much happening! <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuzGsGRzngyYbTAQWH7Mt2AYc0s0Gmse8NsZghyXyMj8bOQlT7AYZMTIeF-Y91unYNUMR7d7N3MDSqalEL7QtWt3EYiR8b3RX_nfZ0WIvjDhXR3Lyb7J8sLoHosGKpK8Sulwm51D6T9HbSvjlsHEdSWjNDGYRBf7N5fNdF7teTUoWYdmWIZMOgzHA/s6000/DSC_0087.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuzGsGRzngyYbTAQWH7Mt2AYc0s0Gmse8NsZghyXyMj8bOQlT7AYZMTIeF-Y91unYNUMR7d7N3MDSqalEL7QtWt3EYiR8b3RX_nfZ0WIvjDhXR3Lyb7J8sLoHosGKpK8Sulwm51D6T9HbSvjlsHEdSWjNDGYRBf7N5fNdF7teTUoWYdmWIZMOgzHA/w426-h640/DSC_0087.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>So much has been going on in the studio the past couple weeks. I've gotten on the post holiday declutter/re-org bandwagon in my sewing space. I've reclaimed the area from under the stairway. It was a catchall with everything from joint compound to Christmas decorations underneath filling its two large shelves. 95% of that is gone to better homes and it is nearly all sewing now. My patterns have been culled and re-org'd and my ancient pattern boxes, still functional, have spiffy new graphics to cover up the messy old lists of what was inside. That info no longer applied with all of the purging been done over the 30 years I have owned these boxes. They have served me very well, still holding together strongly despite being stuffed to the gills at times. This is my very un-complicated, highly functional method of organizing my patterns. I sort by type. Period. Why would I sort by company if I really want to just look for a pants pattern or spend time enjoying blouse designs? I want to make that top again. Was it a McCalls or a new Look? Why would I remove envelopes, corral them into binders, put the guts into separate manila foldsers which still need to be organized in some fashion and then require a two part brain maneuver to find anything? I can see the day I can no longer search for a pattern and someone finds all those binders and do you really think they would go looking for manila envelopes to match them up to? Why would I take valuable sewing time to imput data into my phone and look at tiny thumbnails when all I have to do is walk over and grab a box? The simplicity here is what works for me, so easy to find and browse. Whatever works for you is fine, too. Oh, I have tried those other systems. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTPc6_BBtHgE7Hl0FZZ-VQlgnS8hAndMpxpx_vcfLwvwlQ0V1Adhq2bDwb0dL4otNs43oco_I_Lr_6DDKPrCsqYxTLX9uT6vcaGhShId9q8_zI516Vy7CEkYJWRuB0UGM_BD829zvWR_Fn4z--KLQeXtWphQQcRjy-EAz-AGv-U3IgTnV8riAw3yj3FY/s5498/DSC_0084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3898" data-original-width="5498" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTPc6_BBtHgE7Hl0FZZ-VQlgnS8hAndMpxpx_vcfLwvwlQ0V1Adhq2bDwb0dL4otNs43oco_I_Lr_6DDKPrCsqYxTLX9uT6vcaGhShId9q8_zI516Vy7CEkYJWRuB0UGM_BD829zvWR_Fn4z--KLQeXtWphQQcRjy-EAz-AGv-U3IgTnV8riAw3yj3FY/w640-h454/DSC_0084.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><b>I am doing this big clean up now and also hope to paint and tape sheet rock and do some major decorating later so this is a big project. My sewing may slow down for a bit but I will take you along the journey. My next move is to do my layout on graph paper and finalize that. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY42s1SjZozGccJDOvUxWbp692P72vuDtIaJz7Si3FC6MIh0ZWYTlsE3yGfx9vMuvmvY7tvB2ps843fo14rJUNgywggp8gcNBOCeQ4w48KquccS4L-r_-bpU4TNSgHwu_AGXOMRwltlEUVyRWviv3Tg3-Oe0zqrrWnwmmr3fJj6TEVKydXP5o2WjEy/s6000/DSC_0063.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY42s1SjZozGccJDOvUxWbp692P72vuDtIaJz7Si3FC6MIh0ZWYTlsE3yGfx9vMuvmvY7tvB2ps843fo14rJUNgywggp8gcNBOCeQ4w48KquccS4L-r_-bpU4TNSgHwu_AGXOMRwltlEUVyRWviv3Tg3-Oe0zqrrWnwmmr3fJj6TEVKydXP5o2WjEy/w640-h426/DSC_0063.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>This is the re-do of threads and BTY trims. The left lazy susan is all my serger threads. Right is all my 100% cotton threads. The blue cutlery tray holds all my fine weight threads. Underneath, on the sides and around the back are all my general sewing threads, organized by color in clear plastic thread totes you can't see. In the big red tote is my large collection , fills the tub, of Paternayan wool embroidery yarns. I use those a lot in repairs and mending. The two boxes in the middle are solid oak, weigh a ton and have lovely DMC logos on top under the spinners. They are very vintage and part of my legacy from my dear sewing friend, Ima, who I have mentioned here many times. The spinning baskets were made by my Amish friend in NY, love them. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR_ExyUwfwhIjWzWTNx9STJD3XW9zNaET_bmxXiOoJBVU6XODjwOarB8cdWgMvVJgzeVlVt1agopwiZPx39zORdh3Om21jc_At9kU-FLSAOkIHG_Mz2zFls1dvH6ShMz00iKJ40CSv8_iL6gH5o8oX4E8zvyn2z2TsWB5I4lnqb-BIdjg078JILMua/s6000/DSC_0073.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR_ExyUwfwhIjWzWTNx9STJD3XW9zNaET_bmxXiOoJBVU6XODjwOarB8cdWgMvVJgzeVlVt1agopwiZPx39zORdh3Om21jc_At9kU-FLSAOkIHG_Mz2zFls1dvH6ShMz00iKJ40CSv8_iL6gH5o8oX4E8zvyn2z2TsWB5I4lnqb-BIdjg078JILMua/w640-h426/DSC_0073.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><b>I decided to take my interfacings and similar and move them from a big trash bucket to these lovely baskets, again, made by my dear Amish friend in NY. Don't they look lovely? They help hide the water tank for now. I plan to get some wicker screens to help that eyesore later. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There is lots more to do here, lots. Hubs is on board and being very very helpful. We will move the cutting table and do a bunch of work and he is excited. It won't happen overnight. Goal is to get this done before garden time. Fingers crossed!!!</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">****************************</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZF63drKZk-1VoRSOk-KGYcfqBuGNpabCkLUr9jEug_YlhtU-1nEgGQWlcIGIXF9kQtN359Jfqz-0LFY2HH-fbgvUJcei85OvDZXHu79dF1R-nxoz92FAniny_eprY8QF4CwrqLgV7UtDMyF_FAFrwm2fy21Bf8kCebVEYmwY4Ae58zKv2Thh951P/s6000/DSC_0079.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZF63drKZk-1VoRSOk-KGYcfqBuGNpabCkLUr9jEug_YlhtU-1nEgGQWlcIGIXF9kQtN359Jfqz-0LFY2HH-fbgvUJcei85OvDZXHu79dF1R-nxoz92FAniny_eprY8QF4CwrqLgV7UtDMyF_FAFrwm2fy21Bf8kCebVEYmwY4Ae58zKv2Thh951P/w640-h426/DSC_0079.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">Did you know Joann fabrics is now carrying 100% cotton lawn? I live near a "super" Joann. It is very clean and well managed and has , not all, but some knowledgeable staff. Remember I live in quilt, not sewing country. Anyhoo, I went in a couple weeks ago to pick up a pattern and low and behold this lovely cotton lawn was in with their "premium cottons" . I figure there were about 80 bolts including about 20 solids. Some of the prints reminded me of Nani Iro designs which I am sure was intentional. The quality is impressive, so extremely soft and lovely, beautiful colors and co-ordinates. I bought enough to make a lovely blouse for next spring when I get to it. I know this isn't in all stores but if you get a lot of "premium cottons" in your big JAs, you may be seeing this. They were all set apart but with the premium cottons and a great price, I thought. Gorgeous. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>***********************************************</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibulxfprB3NQGC67NBxMu7iLU_OxfHLH_LfGbXBDtr66DHCjMnFWwiN1Y5NeebxKNpep2CMjmf9K9rVqgG2Fbl5-tG2s3HROxiveSlvlDx9GQg52tOOA1oEq8CNKu35duGg7_YpPpV4UkvZyOCxCpTkS-9QdjdI-pTJ-sn2qLh7DxYXsGBjhR_JH5w/s6000/DSC_0033.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibulxfprB3NQGC67NBxMu7iLU_OxfHLH_LfGbXBDtr66DHCjMnFWwiN1Y5NeebxKNpep2CMjmf9K9rVqgG2Fbl5-tG2s3HROxiveSlvlDx9GQg52tOOA1oEq8CNKu35duGg7_YpPpV4UkvZyOCxCpTkS-9QdjdI-pTJ-sn2qLh7DxYXsGBjhR_JH5w/w640-h426/DSC_0033.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>And what is this winged thing she doth seweth? You tell me! I am so frustrated with this pattern but I will get into that when I go do the review. I had to walk away and that is why I went full bore on the re-org. See those two wings. They were stitched together at the back seam as directed to make a shawl collar. Guess what? They are four and a half inches short of making it around the back neckline. All dots and marks match. No pieces missing. She screams and curses! I did get back to it and made it match with the addition of an interfaced bias piece where needed. More later. I can't walk away from a Pendleton wool jacket. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>****************************************</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Another great find for the sewing room I would highly recommend. It will literally "glow" you away. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8hqm-jNainKlyUx04Yrw3ml1LeCKERFDu-_PNr1kC98jRLyUuncF35gf6sFPYieTRQ3FaA_ocpjyiL4z9_nTmaq_IL5u5qbYQroTYOSgaquB0nSVihL6BA60XW9Oo0JI3wU4veY9KShNctl-noC_dIydaOK04RIDynloyPyv5qd2DiKYNbMudJzm/s2900/DSC_0082.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2900" data-original-width="2853" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8hqm-jNainKlyUx04Yrw3ml1LeCKERFDu-_PNr1kC98jRLyUuncF35gf6sFPYieTRQ3FaA_ocpjyiL4z9_nTmaq_IL5u5qbYQroTYOSgaquB0nSVihL6BA60XW9Oo0JI3wU4veY9KShNctl-noC_dIydaOK04RIDynloyPyv5qd2DiKYNbMudJzm/w630-h640/DSC_0082.JPG" width="630" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>A couple of weeks ago we went to visit our daughter. We have the code to open the garage and walk right in. When we opened the door is was like walking onto another planet. I had never been in a room so bright. It was like being on the beach in the Caribbean at high noon. What was going on? The light was pure, clear and white, like the daylight bulbs that I use in my sewing space but so much whiter and brighter. You had to see this to believe it. She told us she got them at Home Depot. A couple days ago we were there and the lights were there and on sale for buy one, get one free and we did. We put one in the garage and one in my sewing space. Just amazing. I will have to take pics but haven't had the chance. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND these LED lights. You can adjust the fins to direct the light. At first you will not be able to look at them but after a small bit you won't even know the lights are there. But the room, you just won't believe.....brightest, purest light I have ever seen. Yes, they are ugly, but dang, they are great. The "after" picture on the box is accurate. Happy sewing.......................Bunny</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-36731472892738084592022-12-24T16:31:00.002-05:002022-12-24T19:38:15.996-05:00Vogue 9338, Embellished<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BOenn3jv5fwFfooxJt0koKO7_GfK2pt23wuH9bREY-fOuh6tQQ_Z2Uv6XrE5gc1wdbU7qjqFeK7XjRAyJp8nTxSTKIThzmqzWls8S6t32PwKVt-yvMRBDgCU9tHz0D1_YO32PXcYm1pLcavkxgg7H1k_gqTWeCdAUIOul8JAIwhkieABTXY3fagJ/s6000/DSC_0018.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BOenn3jv5fwFfooxJt0koKO7_GfK2pt23wuH9bREY-fOuh6tQQ_Z2Uv6XrE5gc1wdbU7qjqFeK7XjRAyJp8nTxSTKIThzmqzWls8S6t32PwKVt-yvMRBDgCU9tHz0D1_YO32PXcYm1pLcavkxgg7H1k_gqTWeCdAUIOul8JAIwhkieABTXY3fagJ/w640-h426/DSC_0018.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Hello, lovelies! Merry Christmas, Happy Hannukah and a Happy New Year to you all! Our blog will start the festivities with these bright little bits of hand dyed wool. Some, the perfect squares, were purchased at my local wonderful quilt shop. The more vari-colored smaller pieces were dyed by me. They were part of a larger piece and I just cut them for this project. I spent the entire afternoon yesterday, playing with their shapes and placement, such fun!</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>And that gingham check? That lightweight will be the covering the Hong Kong seams in this next project. It is a jacket, <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/vogue-patterns/v9338">Vogue 9338, </a>View A. It is an unlined jacket with no closures and 3/4 pleated full sleeves. These pleated sleeves are different from those of the plaid shacket in the last post, however, as you will see later. While this jacket is unlined, I am going to "semi-underline" it, my invented word. What does that mean? Well, I cut all the pieces out needed for an underlined jacket. Basically, that means the fashion fabric and lining were cut out exactly alike and will be layed on top of each other and treated as one. <i>However,</i> this jacket will have some embellishment going on and I don't want that to go thru the lining layer or show. So I will do the embellishment to the fashion fabric, a Pendleton wool (beautiful)first, and then cover it with the underlining. -------------- In the meantime, I got this bright idea that since I was going to hide the embellishment mess, I might as well hide the darts, so I did the darts, front and back as well. So, once the embellishment and darts are all done, I will lay the lining on top of the bodice pieces and proceed as if I am underlining the garment. I will have Hong Kong seams throughout. I always try to do all my HK seams before construction really starts. I will baste the lining pieces to the garment pieces after the embellishment is done. Then I will do the HK seams and after that start putting together the jacket. Whew,,,,, I think the gingham will work well. It's lightweight and contrasts nicely with the black jacket and bright hand dyeds. I've been thinking about this jacket for quite some time, something to throw on for warmth, not too fussy, and fun looking. I wanted something I could wear with jeans or a snow skirt and tights. I love that it has no closures. Fingers crossed!</b></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>**************************</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I pray good health and joy for you all as we go thru this season of hope and love. May your days be merry and bright and I look forward to sharing with all of you the joy of sewing next year. Happy Sewing............Bunny</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-88505034740190213412022-12-06T19:45:00.002-05:002022-12-06T21:46:04.674-05:00I made a shacket, Simplicity 9646, and didn't know it!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2w5xsukRD1WA0wI2b9NpcZgmz1jsNLEdUjP818DFmL_U1Lu8XovsHzzoqj7EM2X7xW6J83egCgS1RNaNDoZIM1lW_Jbn8TWsYtiQ1qZ-i25I6Ah8QwW4IuxDfi0Egp2nyyiymzQ_VuISHohV4op6cHBBk2KMbJI3FwpQvIiXXW9A_IePqxM7q3Sb/s6000/DSC_0981.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2w5xsukRD1WA0wI2b9NpcZgmz1jsNLEdUjP818DFmL_U1Lu8XovsHzzoqj7EM2X7xW6J83egCgS1RNaNDoZIM1lW_Jbn8TWsYtiQ1qZ-i25I6Ah8QwW4IuxDfi0Egp2nyyiymzQ_VuISHohV4op6cHBBk2KMbJI3FwpQvIiXXW9A_IePqxM7q3Sb/w426-h640/DSC_0981.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><div style="font-size: x-small; text-align: center;">Love this!</div><div style="font-size: x-small; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>My blouse turned into a shacket and I have no problems with that. As a matter of fact, I am loving my shacket as does hubs. It is cuddly, warm and so very colorful on a cold, dreary winter's day. This project exceeded expectations and took longer than I expected but was worth all the effort. I know I will get much wear out of this and am tempted to start another but there is much in the queue! Here is the very long and interesting story of this Plaid and Puffy Shirt. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is <a href="https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s9646">Simplicity 9646</a>, one of their latest designs. It is a classic design, buttons up the front, Peter Pan collar, dropped shoulders, and BIG puffy sleeves with cuff bands. I fell in love with the sleeve of similar size but different construction from<a href="https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s9641"> Simplicity 9641</a>. It was big and for a dropped shoulder as well but the fullness was controlled by large pleats. The under arm seam even had pleats in the seam giving an illusion of even more fullness. I transferred the sleeve from 9641 to 9646 and wrote about that in my last post and you can read about that challenge <a href="https://lasewist.blogspot.com/2022/11/simplicity-9641-what-sleeves.html">HERE.</a> </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqK36iNhnbezEsqAahJD1ByRLzA5BE5BN8Oz-h-rGRg9uiMoQzV_r4K8Mr-nS5gTfMt8-97H4iGOCXtQ0FsfmQmTkjwYoRRZ0v3dpI7Fpjf2-Vz_WuOwnB4C9kxSbshWX5XnQF5_qH-DAFNkynS68WCOupZgUNdE-LuTjHGXlZq3CvyUFWIM2Z67PT/s5340/DSC_0010.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5340" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqK36iNhnbezEsqAahJD1ByRLzA5BE5BN8Oz-h-rGRg9uiMoQzV_r4K8Mr-nS5gTfMt8-97H4iGOCXtQ0FsfmQmTkjwYoRRZ0v3dpI7Fpjf2-Vz_WuOwnB4C9kxSbshWX5XnQF5_qH-DAFNkynS68WCOupZgUNdE-LuTjHGXlZq3CvyUFWIM2Z67PT/w480-h640/DSC_0010.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><div style="text-align: center;">The underarm sleeve seam. </div></span><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This blouse has a folded on facing. I am not a big fan of this type of facing but went with it. I might change that next time. It calls for no interfacing. I found it floppy without and went back and interfaced it before going further with the neckline or buttons. Do that if you make it. I would also interface both sides of the collar band as well. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The pattern also calls for a wrist band cuff with elastic inside. I made instead a wider wrist band cuff with no elastic as you can see above and as in the 9641 sleeve. I like that better. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There are optional darts and I chose to just add them to the front. This skews the plaid a bit but it is what it is. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fit:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zTpWH1FiUjtInGmYhkfVFcbhJMlgwfqMlj5SgTaQ85crJ_AVHBUqXY5x-f0hiCZvGmnjD1l6MGhEj5oZ1CzvUVI-0zl19jE_mSHkgtapXq1EFKdWp4qhs2D266h2cp1pgSWvJd604Tcod82cLrkoM_AEWc8_-Izq-qdyFSt3vW68PNe4EYju5NPI/s6000/DSC_0965.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zTpWH1FiUjtInGmYhkfVFcbhJMlgwfqMlj5SgTaQ85crJ_AVHBUqXY5x-f0hiCZvGmnjD1l6MGhEj5oZ1CzvUVI-0zl19jE_mSHkgtapXq1EFKdWp4qhs2D266h2cp1pgSWvJd604Tcod82cLrkoM_AEWc8_-Izq-qdyFSt3vW68PNe4EYju5NPI/w426-h640/DSC_0965.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I used the smallest size, an 8, still too big. I removed 1 1/2 inches width from the boxy bodice, all the way down and also reduced the length of the shoulder drop by 3/8ths of an inch. All dropped shoulders have a bit of "box" depending on how much they drop. I am comfortable with this look given the type of garment this is. I wish this were made in a smaller size like other Big Four. This size 8 is meant for a 31 1/2 in. bust. Just what is going on here? Last check mine was 37 so that will tell you about the ease to prepare for here. Definitely flat pattern measure before cutting if you make this. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This lovely plaid is 100% cotton. It is from the Plaiditudes line from Joann Fabrics. I've sewn with it before and been <i>very</i> happy with the results, and over time as well. This is yarn dyed so the pattern is exactly the same on both sides. HOWEVER, after I got it laid out on my table, all ready to cut, only then did I realize it was an uneven plaid, all the more challenging to match. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-ClmhkVbvfWE3l_Odi9EBl19F64kYspgOR8TIQT36l4U36bHcrK7zWLQcOmnP8piOYriPcbp8VO-MrlRkkmDSUiP99Vcrx3JthRq1_YPv5YF7WNQmYE3zUJ0kipAQuntdF95EkF-4B599QKondFfCJMIoJEjAD8uzTLozXmKzYZDTrrSlkVKBOZN/s4446/DSC_0934.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2187" data-original-width="4446" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-ClmhkVbvfWE3l_Odi9EBl19F64kYspgOR8TIQT36l4U36bHcrK7zWLQcOmnP8piOYriPcbp8VO-MrlRkkmDSUiP99Vcrx3JthRq1_YPv5YF7WNQmYE3zUJ0kipAQuntdF95EkF-4B599QKondFfCJMIoJEjAD8uzTLozXmKzYZDTrrSlkVKBOZN/w640-h314/DSC_0934.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>When you center an uneven plaid you do not get the same plaid on each side. You need to choose a prominent bar and work with that. For me it was the dark green blue you see in the center above. I think I made it work as best possible. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw829Ou8C5DDMHIz_n1PlYa1qrWm7rBtt7AGkLPX-xc64SNXOx5Xy01YZAhx-sWp4cOyzscYSNe9fVDyGtmulytRDKo2Z3bvlSGKN8MpAO0btjLTzRb4lcXvf2jb2o7ipDGPXAAg0y5TEwxLdLqnjolq9OT8zMIgyDk5Eww7UB1_Al80ShqQlagq0v/s6000/DSC_0968.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw829Ou8C5DDMHIz_n1PlYa1qrWm7rBtt7AGkLPX-xc64SNXOx5Xy01YZAhx-sWp4cOyzscYSNe9fVDyGtmulytRDKo2Z3bvlSGKN8MpAO0btjLTzRb4lcXvf2jb2o7ipDGPXAAg0y5TEwxLdLqnjolq9OT8zMIgyDk5Eww7UB1_Al80ShqQlagq0v/w640-h426/DSC_0968.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>There was no way to get my collar to match in the front and also match at center back with the center back bar down the bodice. I tried everything. Except--------------this fabric is yarn dyed. The back is exactly like the front of the fabric. I cut a new collar of two pieces for the top collar. It has a seam across the center back. You can't see it but it is there on the collar above. One side of the collar came from the "right" side of the fabric and the other side came from the "wrong" side of the fabric. They are exactly alike and I got a perfect match at center front and centre back. It was the only way and a fine way. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigA3g0Z4b8Zf8e9oXW25mSwhW4BWxz2tQKzbxgre7rf9yU1jAk-wpsiZknx-8bL-xooSkZ_d07E75tsNE8XeiGzzYdt09AJULd5QIHgH5Uxc7qFomIzRvE4FdlAZew3iXKc7Qzcmu74g7iw7hihv9tW9XYmTB_M89GcoTmzkVfirAVypDKaykehtF6/s6000/DSC_0973.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigA3g0Z4b8Zf8e9oXW25mSwhW4BWxz2tQKzbxgre7rf9yU1jAk-wpsiZknx-8bL-xooSkZ_d07E75tsNE8XeiGzzYdt09AJULd5QIHgH5Uxc7qFomIzRvE4FdlAZew3iXKc7Qzcmu74g7iw7hihv9tW9XYmTB_M89GcoTmzkVfirAVypDKaykehtF6/w640-h426/DSC_0973.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Yay! I did the same for the collar band. Now, for the sleeves, I did the standard copout, cut them on the bias. I think it worked out well. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Another fabric I needed and used was for the Hong Kong seams. Alls seams in this garment are finished in this manner. I hadn't decided yet what I was going to use to cover the seams, but I usually go with a chiffon or light cotton. It was the day before Thanksgiving and I was in Joanns and everything Thanksgiving was marked down 70%. I saw this panel, was traveling and having no entertaining in our own home, and decided it was perfection for covering my HK seams. It was. It's a hoot, don't you think? </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaY6-EGaaeoxD7xgTq859jw5XWipl1ttG3q38XQFQSoC2iYwt6LI9DSZrPQXIO9aKt5u3_2LaNYY8maD6NrUztPEt8hA58QpZI_Cft5rMmN--VcinH_Y7-w7EY9HTQ8Lbw_C-5VA7392TFgwSZqd_6_fUc3-fsoKeNTw_kqdpu2hOZksFRnyYZx90/s6000/DSC_0930.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaY6-EGaaeoxD7xgTq859jw5XWipl1ttG3q38XQFQSoC2iYwt6LI9DSZrPQXIO9aKt5u3_2LaNYY8maD6NrUztPEt8hA58QpZI_Cft5rMmN--VcinH_Y7-w7EY9HTQ8Lbw_C-5VA7392TFgwSZqd_6_fUc3-fsoKeNTw_kqdpu2hOZksFRnyYZx90/w640-h426/DSC_0930.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>The colors were gorgeous, perfect for my needs and for a few dollars, it jumped into my cart. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKS8Q0glAaj3MWHsl2HOzNbdgM2WX5envByMBFN6zBNmVBmpdfAvV9HHdIyQjvbBKxIQtiifWGyHn_HzXYExbBkXXvfcLqMH3HJhKHNFT2wjRMGHyeP3YVoXGzvYlByOY7Eku3XFeQ0g6Ba-lQAH0RE23yPgRv_bdfAl3NwSZvbWf_RyJfqEIVnLgU/s6000/DSC_0938.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKS8Q0glAaj3MWHsl2HOzNbdgM2WX5envByMBFN6zBNmVBmpdfAvV9HHdIyQjvbBKxIQtiifWGyHn_HzXYExbBkXXvfcLqMH3HJhKHNFT2wjRMGHyeP3YVoXGzvYlByOY7Eku3XFeQ0g6Ba-lQAH0RE23yPgRv_bdfAl3NwSZvbWf_RyJfqEIVnLgU/w640-h426/DSC_0938.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I think they came out nicely! That panel was bias cut all the way to Christmas!</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction: </span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I will start with the sleeves as they were the most demanding. Again, most of their issues are discussed in the last post, the one before this one. </span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7JLy6kmaGBRfSdRTybMSSL8Z3XE279MsUV2kQ8KHN_4pIVZ3kmaK834XJTQZ94BjLfPJkA0S0XdY-8kc-eUy3hgKdVN9rLxSrRXhUMCmpywQUZwchP_6oQJmKFVDV6-Dr23WXEdlf_OfJUfYDlU_g3G61qEGEtml05Bt1YcaP7SOpl0i0vif_aGA/s6000/DSC_0003.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7JLy6kmaGBRfSdRTybMSSL8Z3XE279MsUV2kQ8KHN_4pIVZ3kmaK834XJTQZ94BjLfPJkA0S0XdY-8kc-eUy3hgKdVN9rLxSrRXhUMCmpywQUZwchP_6oQJmKFVDV6-Dr23WXEdlf_OfJUfYDlU_g3G61qEGEtml05Bt1YcaP7SOpl0i0vif_aGA/w640-h426/DSC_0003.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The sleeves have big pleats in the wrist area connecting to the cuff bands. They also have pleats on each side of the seam that is the underarm sleeve seam. Lastly, more pleats control the fullness at the dropped shoulder. </b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTzihOSI4964jS1Lb8XEuPKk0eg45f52D1fx2AjRjSx3eQQ8_YopmouboGkVhYLVvEHh1OD58TvUN85b6HosaakQ4MNbtaxymYiRB9ZtZHa3loCXbzFBteu-ppTZOHntfuGa1Zj6rBRXylq4OqATp5F8dVvnRLKxRsRnfx4WSu1S3bMsj9_bJfq5FQ/s6000/DSC_0962.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="3550" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTzihOSI4964jS1Lb8XEuPKk0eg45f52D1fx2AjRjSx3eQQ8_YopmouboGkVhYLVvEHh1OD58TvUN85b6HosaakQ4MNbtaxymYiRB9ZtZHa3loCXbzFBteu-ppTZOHntfuGa1Zj6rBRXylq4OqATp5F8dVvnRLKxRsRnfx4WSu1S3bMsj9_bJfq5FQ/w378-h640/DSC_0962.JPG" width="378" /></a></div><br /><b><span> My sleeves were cut on the bias which definitely helps them billow, so pretty. </span><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span><br /></span></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7BbNMoW-LQRCSGLnyUPxudv2Xlp3Am65ERACWOMIsi6EuS43LSrXZozFDloMEszW8bGFecIQMmgsCiXcwP33wq7QO3flaWw9Fh35wYWh6j-HWwbAo2A2qRoKdlgb2uUkXIGS6JnLygcKeWtxd4a-iiwgR5BY-JSsspPDWuQu921v6KFCtrVCpNMZA/s5693/DSC_0001.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3273" data-original-width="5693" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7BbNMoW-LQRCSGLnyUPxudv2Xlp3Am65ERACWOMIsi6EuS43LSrXZozFDloMEszW8bGFecIQMmgsCiXcwP33wq7QO3flaWw9Fh35wYWh6j-HWwbAo2A2qRoKdlgb2uUkXIGS6JnLygcKeWtxd4a-iiwgR5BY-JSsspPDWuQu921v6KFCtrVCpNMZA/w640-h368/DSC_0001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">On to the collar and collar band. If you look close here you can see how I triple zigzagged my understitching to provide the needed structure on this soft blanket-y fabric. It worked. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_r9FGyhh1GV1ZsqM8rXzQVVZ79mQg-Hb2WX3Y46Luc45AuseM9B-rab2oOh251xlaBV5eGTpHaAKohexxnBsV42j-0QPO1WxB4TszeZoHY7IuW1V4in8fF62vmlvRR91zZn0DlfbFDqHN3c55rJgSiyHf9zZH8CrHBGGKDdmodb6RvfKfjz9E8P-/s6000/DSC_0955.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_r9FGyhh1GV1ZsqM8rXzQVVZ79mQg-Hb2WX3Y46Luc45AuseM9B-rab2oOh251xlaBV5eGTpHaAKohexxnBsV42j-0QPO1WxB4TszeZoHY7IuW1V4in8fF62vmlvRR91zZn0DlfbFDqHN3c55rJgSiyHf9zZH8CrHBGGKDdmodb6RvfKfjz9E8P-/w640-h426/DSC_0955.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">I did make a collar band template to use as I did on my last pattern with a collar band. I find it really helps. Also, this pattern specifies everything with a 3/8th inch seam on the collar and collar band. Yay for that, Big Four!! About time!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpxvbupasry9gDjVj56P81AMS-p1-VHXdB18OWLmWlVFjOpJHU5nPUK6JHOg4241pJqYFno545RgHfyyc4yigB2A22oX0xIFRQNTf9Sk17z5Iz5uhF4Sq5Z46ES8bo4NbRgdJKZYDob0zQO0_R_fn94mGvjpWd3Un5cqQHWDQEaDh3GjGY2llIE93r/s6000/DSC_0008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpxvbupasry9gDjVj56P81AMS-p1-VHXdB18OWLmWlVFjOpJHU5nPUK6JHOg4241pJqYFno545RgHfyyc4yigB2A22oX0xIFRQNTf9Sk17z5Iz5uhF4Sq5Z46ES8bo4NbRgdJKZYDob0zQO0_R_fn94mGvjpWd3Un5cqQHWDQEaDh3GjGY2llIE93r/w640-h426/DSC_0008.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">Again, a closer look will show the Hong Kong seams and the bound edge of the hem on the left. It is hand catch stitched to the bodice. If you click on the photos they'll enlarge and you can see the deets better. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64_zlFqRgQsx6tzvoXGo787cHcSFdZvLGR7GAAnFXqjZjyi4GFH5wWpJUcd2Sb3i-I4dFhSoL3lyzHS9jclU_rEWx2Hq0L0I9yyQpIRuuMM1-mNwQkCuUitNr8xGUkNRfWfUsuMzuiW4lAHiQz8MtEDGLc4j2CNkZBgp0x2UWRaNWw_57Fd3-BPIo/s6000/DSC_0959.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64_zlFqRgQsx6tzvoXGo787cHcSFdZvLGR7GAAnFXqjZjyi4GFH5wWpJUcd2Sb3i-I4dFhSoL3lyzHS9jclU_rEWx2Hq0L0I9yyQpIRuuMM1-mNwQkCuUitNr8xGUkNRfWfUsuMzuiW4lAHiQz8MtEDGLc4j2CNkZBgp0x2UWRaNWw_57Fd3-BPIo/w640-h426/DSC_0959.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">These buttonholes were a really fun challenge. For some time now, just for the heck of it, I've wanted to try David Page Coffin's method of making machine buttonholes totally by machine with nothing but a zigzag stitch, no computer, no attachments./....just you and the zigzag. I spent an entire afternoon with his book, "Shirtmaking" and his method and made scads of samples on this flannel until I felt I had it. These are the results. It was so easy and guaranteed results, even on that nasty, bumpy button hole up at the top of the collar band. What I liked best about his method was the way I could control the negative space between the two bars of satin stitch. My Pfaff makes those bars very close. There may be a way to alter that but I have yet to figure it out. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqb7Yafq-YUt5ZZ5a0YiUqQvHiaAujnhFrjp69ULZrMIcv74yk5t_JO3NbacxqRq7kv5KogYEBQrjhhG6WioSSuVGSUYWvRGiSqxwQfbO99ck_eJy5zWRndpdWJhxOvqNID3ACDt9eS32cpaSAuooRnHPgt3oA1jDCCyfxwC1jiMP7_q1A7i26Kz7x/s6000/DSC_0988.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqb7Yafq-YUt5ZZ5a0YiUqQvHiaAujnhFrjp69ULZrMIcv74yk5t_JO3NbacxqRq7kv5KogYEBQrjhhG6WioSSuVGSUYWvRGiSqxwQfbO99ck_eJy5zWRndpdWJhxOvqNID3ACDt9eS32cpaSAuooRnHPgt3oA1jDCCyfxwC1jiMP7_q1A7i26Kz7x/w426-h640/DSC_0988.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I really enjoyed the challenges this top presented. It started with hacking one pattern sleeve onto another pattern's bodice and went thru plaid matching, reducing sizing, seam finishes, new buttonhole sewing methods and maybe more. It certainly took a while. I know I will get a lot of use out of this "shacket" and I credit that to the great fabrics I used. I love their beauty, each of them and know their quality from previous experience so know this was a worthwhile endeavor. Let's tick one more item off of my winter plan list. It's now on to undies!!!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG43tR3NDprO98U5nh3CWQgyq0nbe61UP5DG1oHrZUL8OEDuJNiWpzwfqUnev4EfUXzj0t-ZJY1wV1IAQHFTwpjUa8M-UaE-kHLUI10vTINdG_IDVn22SR2fLnrNwmx1ZP3GC3LDiRBikYY0NO2av8xuV_S6cnSl-1U2DVTypNCb9I4WNyQi-q4fLm/s6000/DSC_0999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG43tR3NDprO98U5nh3CWQgyq0nbe61UP5DG1oHrZUL8OEDuJNiWpzwfqUnev4EfUXzj0t-ZJY1wV1IAQHFTwpjUa8M-UaE-kHLUI10vTINdG_IDVn22SR2fLnrNwmx1ZP3GC3LDiRBikYY0NO2av8xuV_S6cnSl-1U2DVTypNCb9I4WNyQi-q4fLm/w640-h426/DSC_0999.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com10