Read any good books, lately?

courtesy essentialhealth.com

I'm no expert. I've never claimed to be. But I read a lot, particularly a lot of sewing books. By this stage of my life I have made more sewing mistakes than you can imagine. Sleeves installed backward? I've done it more times than I can count.Cut and sewed two of something when I only need one?  Many times. Nasty zipper installations? Well, if there were an Olympic competition for that one, I'd have the gold. I could go on and on. But back to my second sentence. I DO read a lot. I actually  "study" sewing. I know many of you do as well. I have all but a handful of the first few issues of Threads and have read every one of them numerous times. They say reading before sleep helps you learn. I don't know but that is generally when I read my Threads or any of the other sewing books I enjoy. I reread those too.

Through books I've learned there are many ways to execute technique but the basics are pretty much shared by all the greats equally. I'm talking my heroes, Nancy Zieman. Claire Shaeffer, Roberta Carr, Susan Khalje, Kenneth King and others. I have read all of their books over and over. Did you know I have, or had, a photographic memory? I did until I hit about forty. That was when I declined in my reading of books ( work, kids ) and I really think that change in the use of my memory muscle did it in. I rarely studied in college or any other school. I would look at the book once and could go into a final knowing exactly the line, the page, and words I was looking for. That did not help my study skills and any subject that required reasoning, like math, I avoided like the plague. I guess I let that little tidbit about myself  out just to make the point that what I read I hold on to. (FWIW, I still have perfect color memory. Weird how that stuck.) My visual memory is still quite good but not the letter by letter perfection I used to consider normal.

Why am I boring you with all of this? Part of me doesn't really know. I feel like I am talking to friends when I write my posts. Another part of me wants to make the point that there is really solid, good, easy to understand knowledge out there. It's not all on you tube or blogs. Actually, a lot of misinformation can be attributed to either of those sources, but some good too. It is so easy to just click and skim. A book is heavy, doggone it, and you have to actually read the thing, too. It is not instant gratification. But I love that I can take a book and find an answer to my sewing query. I can take it in at my own pace. It can sit right next to me at the machine, if need be. (I know, my tablet can too and sometimes it does.) I love being able to "study" in my comfy chair or propped up on my pillow in bed or in the shade and coolness of our new deck. Yes, I can do this with my tablet but there is just something "hard" about a tablet and "warm" about a book, at least for me.   I certainly use the internet and  various devices to search and learn, but it's not the same type of "studying" that I enjoy with books. I love on the internet that I can instantly get various opinions and techniques on the same subject. Books for me  require a different sort of effort. The experience is enhanced by a good cup of tea, a comfy place to sit and QUIET. I  love the quiet part. It's a pleasure.

This post was prompted by finding someone giving erroneous information to others out on the internet in regards to a technique of sewing, While I feel bad for those who took the information as correct when it clearly wasn't it made me just start wondering about how we receive our sewing information. Moms and Grandmoms who sew as well as Home Ec classes are long gone as reliable sources of basic sewing technique. I am talking about today and how we learn. I have so many questions.

What part of your sewing education has the internet played? All of it? Some of it? Very little of it? Do you blindly trust youtube and bloggers with sewing information or maybe just some of them? Would you trust a classic sewing book, or a  new one for that matter, as much, more of, or less than internet advice?  What about your own experience? By that I mean the College of Hard Knocks and Wadders. Is that your primary teacher? Is your knowledge a combo of internet and books? Where did you get your "foundation"? Do you consider yourself to have a strong  foundation in the basics of sewing? If so. how did you come by it?  And how much does the marketing of a blogger influence your trust in information? If someone has many followers, does that mean they must know what they are doing?  There are no right or wrong answers here.

I am currently reading a very interesting  book called "Reclaiming conversation" by Sherry Turkle. One of the big seductions of texting and blogging and such is that we can "get it right", Turkle's words. We can take thirty pictures to get just the right one on a post. I've surely done that. We can edit our words before we hit publish whereas in real life, once our mouth opens, its pretty much a done deal. We can present a persona out on the web that in real life has warts, misbehavior and is not always that pleasant.  And we can use this power of getting it right to maybe exaggerate our knowledge, skill and experience. We can edit to put a face to the world that presents us as pretty doggone perfect if we want to, unlike real life, which goes unscripted and has blatant consequences of our actions. We can even delete or not allow publication of comments that point up our faults and misinformation. Are you more likely to believe in someone's abilities if they are well marketed? Pretty provocative stuff. How do you like  blogs who show their wadders and poor fitting as opposed to those that are examples of marketing genius? Which do you trust more for sewing knowledge? Let's be honest here.

I would love to know your opinions.

Next Level Sewing, #1, calling all Sewing Newbies!

Around the blogosphere lately I have seen a fair amount of chatter regarding sewing books. There are so many new sewists and I personally find that thrilling. But it seems many newbies now want to up their game and pick up the next level of skills. On forums there is talk of the lack of middle level sewing manuals. While I disagree with that thought and will talk more about it in a moment, I do think many of our newbie sewists have really caught the passion and are looking to better their skills. They don't want to sew couture  and many don't have the time for epic garment sewing at this stage of their lives. Even if they did "To everything there is a season and a time for every purpose........" While one day couture level sewing may intrigue today's newbies, many realize they need to learn a bit more of the every day sewing before jumping that broom.

It energizes me to see our newest sewists looking for the next level of sewing. It is actually something that has been really calling for my attention for some time. I've started keeping a list of things that come up as I am sewing that might be of interest to someone who wants to get better at this craft.  What I have read on several blogs and forums is that the newest sewing books are not filling that need. Reports are many are one dimensional, or are single project oriented  or just simply have the basics. Many books I've seen ( remember, I work in a library) are rehashes of the same ole, same ole. Do you want the info A-Z, or the one with a ring binding, or the one with the funky trendy artwork?  Many new sewists are wanting more. It's exciting that new sewists want to get better at this passion. It makes my heart skip a beat.

I've really thought about this a lot. As I am working on my own projects, often simple practices come up that really make a difference. These are not epic sewing moments, but the small little techniques that you don't see mentioned in patterns or sewing books. They are the things the patterns assume you know. They are what you learned the hard way or from a dear mentor. So my list began. And once that list got started I knew I would have to address this on the blog.

The things I would love to share are mostly pretty simple. They are all those techniques that, as a young sewist myself, I thought were a waste of time, too much trouble, or just didn't seem necessary. Some are methods that I learned over the years as my sewing progressed. Now they are techniques I can't imagine not doing as they add so much to the finished quality of a garment. Nearly all take little extra effort but make such a difference in the final result.

With all that hoopla I have decided to write a series on "Next Level Sewing". It is intended to help our treasured new garment makers produce more professional results. No promises here but the plan is to publish this series once a week, on Mondays. So tell your sewing friends, those who are just beginning, those returning to sewing after a hiatus and all your sewing friends that on Mondays La Sewista  will be having her series: "Next Level Sewing". If there is anything particular you would like addressed, please let me know.

I am going to start this first post in the series discussing books. There are tons of newbie books out there. Most are very enthusiastic and inspiring. They often are one dimensional and you read them feeling like something is left to be said when you have completed the book. It's as if you learned a lot about making tote bags, or aprons, or skirts, or hats, or whatever, but did you really learn to sew?  Lots of books like this are out there and my suggestion is to get your new sewing books from the library. Unless money is no object, save your dollars to invest in some of the classic writings as well as some vintage sewing books. In case you're wondering how I formed this opinion, my work in the library gives me great access to books and I process all the incoming new books personally as well. 

At the other end of the spectrum are the highly detailed couture or textbook type sewing books. These really should be read. Again try them at the library but definitely invest in one or two so there is a reference for that special garment you know you will make one day, a wedding gown, prom gown, little black dress, or a couture inspired suit. These books are fun to read and inspire also. They will be there when you need them. So a newer sewist may want to have one in her sewing library for now even if she/he is not ready to try couture. It's always great to have inspiration as well as something to strive for.  My recommendations would be anything by  Claire Shaeffer, Kenneth King  or Susan Khalje.

So what's the in between you ask? the meat of  "middle" sewing?  My recommendation for the newbie sewist is GO VINTAGE! Many new sewists are fans of vintage clothing so why not vintage sewing books? Other than a few newer notions and tech fabrics, sewing has not changed much for a long long time. The garments and styles change but easing in a sleeve is the same concept and skill today as it was in those gorgeous 1930s tailored suits of yesteryear. Matching plaids is the same skill today as it was many decades ago. Edith Head, my favorite vintage designer, had skills that would make her an excellent designer today as well. The vintage books may have a different vibe but the information in them is just as good today as when it was written and many are specifically that next level of sewing reference that the newbie is looking for.

Look for them at your library  and/or pick them up on Amazon or from Alibrus.   Those two sources vary wildly in their pricing so be a sharp shopper. Read all the reviews. Because these books have been time tested, no gushing faux designer worshippers are reviewing the books and stacking the reviews in their favor. These are time tested tomes.   Try them out from the library. Then invest. Some of my favorites:

Anything  by Adele P. Margolis. She has numerous books and is a sewing icon who passed away last year in her nineties. She is very easy to understand, hilariously opinionated, and fun to read, not what you'd expect from a book teaching sewing. I recommend any of her books and keep your eyes peeled for them at thrift shops and yard sales. While the pages may be a bit yellowed and the illustrations a bit of a hoot, these are priceless. I guarantee you will learn a lot, never will feel overwhelmed and will enjoy her writing style. She's an amazing teacher.

The Singer Sewing Series by Cy Decosse   These books came out in the 80s and 90s if my memory serves me right. They are just as relevant today as they were then. What sets this series apart from other and newer sewing books is the clarity of the teaching and the phenomenal photography, some of the best I've ever seen in a sewing book. The pictures are glossy, in color, large, and very  very close up. Explanations are simple to understand and work perfectly with the photos, no need to reference or back track.  There are many books in the series. My favorites are "Sewing with an Overlocker", aka, serger, " Sewing Knits",   "Tailoring",  "Sewing for Children" and numerous others. Each topic has it's own separate book. The great photography and clear lesson planning are consistent in all the different volumes. There is a logic to the chapters that makes so much sense as one skill builds on another.  I still pull out my pants book and the serging book quite often. Concepts that are difficult to visualize and therefore understand in other books are clear as a bell in the Singer Sewing Books series. Highly recommend, again, a bit vintage but worth seeking out.  You will refer to these a lot, promise.

courtesy etsy.com

The Bishop Method of Sewing by Edna Bryte Bishop is a classic that starts with the absolute most basic information. It is very logical in it's progression and by the time you are done reading the Bishop Method you have an amazing font of sewing knowledge to help you along. Bishop is the queen of GRAIN and will stress that every chance possible. She also teaches directional sewing. Mastering just those two subjects alone will kick your sewing up big notches.

The Simplicity Sewing Book(s)  These books were released periodically by Simplicity from the 1950s through the 1970s. They carry good solid information in a clear format. The big advantage here? They can be found very inexpensively on Etsy and Ebay. Search for your best price. These are worth having in your sewing library. I think the covers are a hoot. Love that price too! So much info for one dollar!

The Vogue Sewing Book  This book has had many reincarnations with the 1970 issue being the most desirable among the cognoscenti. This is a great solid reference that will take you from starter sewist to tailoring expert if that is where you want to go. You need a book like this on your shelf. It is a go-to reference that will not let you down when you have a sewing quandary. I highly recommend. Again, shop around for the best price. Look on Ebay, Etsy, Alibrus and Amazon used.

Our first post on "Next Level Sewing" is now complete. I hope you get the opportunity to put some of these sewing books into your library. If you are looking to jump out of newbie mode with your next garment, any of these recommendations can help take you there. Good luck! Thanks for reading and I hope you are able to follow along with this series. Until next Monday when we will discuss some really simple techniques that can make a big difference...............Bunny

Edited to add:  Reader Valerie, from France, high up in the Alps, has been kind enough to hook us up with links to some wonderful bilingual sewing books, some French and English, some available in Italian and Spanish as well. I would like to add her email to this  lesson so our European sisters can have some excellent sewing references as well. It does sound like these books could benefit us all, however. Thank you so much, Valerie. Here is a note:

"........... We have a lot of books in France like in USA, but some are more technicals because they are edited by the French Schools of Modeling, especially ESMOD in Paris. I found some in "Amazon USA" because these books are bilingual.

I let you the links of my search if you are interested (although these books are expensive):
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Claire+Wargnier&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AClaire+Wargnier

(more on pattern drafting): http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=become+a+pattern+drafter&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abecome+a+pattern+drafter

And finally, we also have Teresa Gilewska, well-known in France for her books in sewing. Some were translated in English, some in Spanich, Italian or German, but unfortunately, not all the collection:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=teresa+gilewska&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ateresa+gilewska

Maybe you will find something useful for you or your readers...

Kind Regards,

Valérie M........"

Again, thank you so much, Valerie, for your contribution to Next Level Sewing. We all appreciate it....Bunny

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This was the last stretch of road, near my home, when I drove back from New Hampshire today. The blue cable on the left, actually a tube,  is used to transfer the sap from the maple trees to a main "sugar house" where the sap will be boiled down to make maple syrup in the spring. A glorious fall day with a hint of chill in the air, perfect!.......... Bunny

A Little Gem of a Book

 

Yesterday DH and I went for a three and a half hour one way trip to Albany and back. With that long ride and no current handwork getting done I grabbed a few sewing books to read along the way. I have, like many of you, a whole library of sewing  books that I have collected for years.  They never cease to give me pleasure. I read and re read them over and over, redundant, but that's how much I enjoy reading them. I started rereading for the umpteenth time this ancient gem from Nancy Zieman, "The Busy Woman's Sewing Book" . It came out back in the day when her shows were all about garment sewing, 1984. Her philosophy is to make help you make your sewing as easy and as professional as possible. That's not easy to do because the easy way is often the Becky Home-Ec-y way but Nancy pulls it off beautifully. Many of the techniques in this book I have used for years and you can see her collar method  and collar band tute in the tutorials on the right.

Isn't that eighties jacket a hoot? Don't let that fool you. Everything in this little book is just as pertinent today as it was back in the eighties. What shines most here is the very clear, simple, and understandable writing style. You can't not get what is being taught here. The illustrations offer perfect depictions of the points she is trying to get across and make for great clarity. 

This is the first page of one of the chapters. Other than her fly technique (I prefer Betzina's) I have learned and used all of these over and over. I particularly love the elastic waistband technique. Her chapter on blousemaking techniques cannot be beat. You will find the easiest collar stand method and lots more.

Here I am, having sewn for 52 years now and I still learn from this book every time I read it. I think because of its clarity of instuction, clear simple illustrations and Nancy's patient pleasant teaching style this is the perfect book for a beginner sewist. While the scope and size of sewing tomes like Vogue's Guide to Sewing or the Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing can be bit intimidating for a newbie, the concise size and the massive info inside make this the perfect book for the beginner sewist, IMO.  You just can't go wrong here.

At this time Nancy has republished much of the same info, albeit enhanced, in later publications but the great content and inexpensive price makes this one special. I highly recommend, NAYY. Do you have this book and do you refer to it as much as I have over the years? It's my go to for quickly locating much needed info on sewing. ....Bunny

Erica Wilson

                                                                                 courtesy NY Times
Erica Wilson passed away on December 13, 2011. I am amazed that the sewing blogging world has not paid its respects. Ms. Wilson was responsible for bringing the art of hand needlework to the world. British by birth she settled in Nantucket where she taught and had a retail shop. There is much info here in the New York Times article.  

I spent many a Sunday afternoon watching Ms. Wilson on PBS. Her sense of color was glorious, her attitude wonderful. She wanted embroidery to be contemporary, bright, playful, and enjoyed.   She published many many books teaching everything from needlepoint to goldwork to knitting and more. She inspired me to take up crewel work and I am so glad I did. There are time worn crewel items around this house that hold sentimental value for me. This crewel work was done at a very difficult time for me and while they are worse for wear, they are badges of survival for me. She was a high spot in my life at that time and took me away, although briefly, from some of the pain I was going through. I so enjoyed her television program and books.

If you are at all interested in embroidery, or the use of color in needlework, or just want to see some inspirational work, check out her books. You will learn a lot. The sewing world truly lost a great one with her passing.

Do you remember Erica Wilson and her programs and books? Did she inspire you?....Bunny

Magazine Organization

Several days ago my husband discombobulated the back basement, two rooms worth. This was all to make room for cords of hardwood to be stacked in the house. Like a runamuck bulldozer things were tossed, piled, and shoved left and right to accommodate the wood. We are now prepared for winter. We will not freeze. But, Alleluia, what a friggin mess was left behind. So, since my company has been gone I have been putting things back in order. One moved item meant two others had to be moved to accommodate it. Long story short, I reorganized the back rooms of the basement, one is my good sized fabric room, as well as the fabric closet. That's all OK. I wanted to make some moves to do more decorating and got to do a bit. 

This baker's rack was reconsigned to the sewing room . I needed a place for my new magazine boxes. I made six and have 3 more to go.

 I picked up six shiny, gray,  corrugated cardboard magazine holders at Office Max for 16.98 (I think). I covered them with fabric using Elmer's Spray Glue. The hardware was tied with a double layer of black cord elastic run through the screw holes. It fits really nice and snug. A few fonts printing out the mag names to be tucked inside and I was done. It was really quite easy. I need to do more name plates but have used all my cord. I'll finish shortly. People also make these out of Cheerio boxes as well as Priority Mail boxes from the Post Office. The Priority Mail boxes must legally only be used for mailing. They are given out for free with the understanding that you will return with them having something inside to be mailed. But if  you have some used boxes you are holding onto, (I never throw them out), they make great magazine holders as well.

I also spray painted a wicker CD holder. In it are all the goodies I need for cutting: rotary cutters of various sorts and sizes, rulers, hip curves, tracing paper, pressing tools and more. I find this very convenient. It sits right at the end of the cutting table. I like this a lot. 

While doing all this cleaning I did find a few neat items. Is this cape pattern on trend or what? Ok, the hat is a bit ridiculous and the length a bit off but the basic cape is yummy with those huge welts.Gotta love it. 

I also found the first sewing book I ever owned, one given to me by my mom when I was 13. It was published in 1961. I remember using this as a reference to make my wedding gown. It sure needs a good wipe on the cover. That will easily be taken care of.  This book served me well for many years.

One more accomplishment today: finding a home for my hard copy patterns, the TNTs. I hung a curtain rod on a blank wall in the fabric closet and can stand back far enough to see it all at a glance. I think I will like this a lot.

A simple curtain rod and some paper clips used to string up each individual pattern and hang them on the rod worked really well. 

Now its time to get back to sewing. You all know how I can't sew with disorder. Disorder is now in order and I am good to go.......Bunny