Covered Buttons, Vogue 1644

 

It seems like Vogue 1644, really a simple jacket, is taking forever. It sort of is. I have been down with a nasty head cold for about a week now. It's not covid, so no worries there but it is "rhino virus". Yes, the jokes ensued and I kept sleeping. I am sewing but it definitely is slow sewing this week. These buttons are the end of it all and they are a bit of a mystery to me.

This jacket is not lined or underlined. It simply has facings and interfacing where traditionally needed. I chose to finish all the seams and hems with a Honk Kong finish. It is a Kathryn Brenne design and I really like the simple look. What I don't understand, that you can see above, is why the buttons are sewn on the front and then the actual closures are snaps inside on the facings. I just don't see a reason for this. Being the first time I used this pattern, I wanted to follow the directions, my usual MO. I thought some obvious reason would eventually pop up but none has. If anyone knows of a good explanation, please share and I thank you ahead for that. 

With all that said I needed 3 buttons. 1 1/4 inch specified and that's what I searched for. I really did not want a showy button.  The fabric color is tough. It is oatmeal and a very dark navy, easy to mistake for black but black it is not.  In the end I decided on a classic covered button in size needed.

If you've never  made a covered button you can easily find them inexpensively at the chains. This is made by Dritz and came  from Joanns'.  They have two parts, the public side which is either a flat or rounded cover with a loop and a back piece with ridges and a hole that snaps into the domed cover, just what you see above.  The domed cover has nasty little teeth inside and your job is to wrap the fabric over the dome and get it to hook onto those teeth, evenly all around and without tearing any human flesh. Sometimes this is easier said than done. I've made a lot of these over the years and you probably have too but for our newer sewists here are a few hints to save you some aggravation.

*Nothing is more disheartening than to get that fabric all pulled snug onto those little teeth over the dome in perfect fashion and when you turn your button over to admire your fine skills you realize that you can see the shine of the metal dome through your fabric. Suddenly your idea of a custom covered button looks horribly cheap and you have to start all over. To prevent that from happening cover the back of your fabric with a layer of fusible interfacing and then cut out your button cover. Your packaging will provide on the back a template to trace for your perfectly sized button cover. Trace this out after you have fused on the interfacing. I then cut my circle out with pinking shears. Now I have a sturdy piece to pull and shove on to those tiny teeth and nothing will shine thru and cheapen the look. 

* Next you will need a few tools to get this job done with minimal distress. Trust me on this. I've been there. Your next step is a pencil eraser. This is actually recommended on the back of the packaging. You will pull your circle of fabric over the button dome and using your nail try to get it stuck on a tooth or two. Next go onto the exact opposite side of the dome and do the same. I know, this is barely stuck in but that's OK. This is where your eraser comes in. Now I went thru two brand new pencil's erasers and watched them break off. Instead find a pencil with the style eraser you see above. It is PERFECT for pushing the fabric under and into the teeth. Just shove that long edge of the eraser into the fabric and push under the teeth. No ripped nails! Now  work opposite sides once a side is a bit secure, just like stapling a picture to a picture frame. Once the fabric circle is secured on 4 opposite sides by shoving in that eraser, work the eraser all around getting the fabric in nice and snug. 

* The next tool , #2, you will use is the E6000 glue. I use this for everything crafty and sewing. Nothing separates this glue once dry. Put a small dot of glue along the ridge of teeth down below. No need to go all around or near the top edge, just a blop on two opposites sides. On top of this lay your flat ridged part of the back button cover. Set it up so the little loop comes thru the hole like you see in my pictures. 

* Don't even try to push this together.  Just don't. Line up the hole nicely and grab tool number #3, the small flat head pliers. I use these for jewelry making but they come in handy for lots of things sewing. Put your button inside the flat "mouth" and give a gentle squeeze on just a side of the button. It will usually pop in the whole button. If it just pops in one side, turn it a bit and squeeze again. If it went in correctly you will hear a definite click before you are completely pressed in. Done. Leave to dry overnight before attaching to your garment. 

According to my pattern I need 3 "medium" snaps.  I am not sure what size these are. They are a half inch wide so that sounds medium to me. I need to install them on the facings under the buttons. Like I said, I don't understand why. Hope this covered button tute helps you. I do enjoy making them, sewing snaps, not so much!.....Bunny