Friday, March 20, 2009
Madeira Hem Technique
This is an easy technique to get you a perfectly curved applique or hem. The navy linen you see here is a band applied to the edge of an off white linen collar. You will need Wash A Way thread in the top of your machine and regular thread in the bottom. Truth be told I use the wash away in the bobbin as well as it makes it even easier to pull apart. The band is folded right sides together with the fold at the CB. It is then stitched with the required 1/4 inch seam. Press in place with a DRY iron. Clip if needed and turn. Press with a dry iron again. Now turn on the steam, heavy, and press and press. The idea is to get the moisture into the pressed edge. The steam will melt the thread. When cool, pull the collar apart. It will be perfectly turned and ready to lay against the base fabric.
My introduction to this technique is from my friend and sewing mentor, Betty. Her wonderful instructions can be seen here on the Everything Sewing site. She is the most amazing fountain of sewing knowledge.
For this weeks Thursday Throwback, now late, I will leave you with a couple of pics of a dress I made a couple of years ago for DGD's Easter dress. It employs the same technique just described on the collar and hem. In my nautical outfit the madeira band is topstitched. On this dress it is pinstitched.