Monday, July 12, 2010

The BM Jacket

If I use the pattern as reference this jacket would be the Vogue Badgley Mischka Platinum 1099 White Linen Jacket. Just toooooo much of a mouthful. So the BM Jacket it is and stop snickering.This jacket is quite easy and moving right along quite quickly too.
No muslin for this one! There is little fit here and I measured the flat pattern and should be fine. This jacket is a "swing" jacket. The only adjustment I have made is to the length, taking out 3/4 of an inch.
The bodice is put together and tonight I dealt with the sleeves.  Smockers of apron dresses and bishops will already know how I did this. A thread was pulled and a longer and wider than necessary strip of linen was cut. It was more than twice the length of two sleeve widths. Make sense? It was then run through the pleater the full length of the strip. This is much faster than pleating each individual sleeve. After pleating,  the piece was cut in two in the middle of the length. At this point I am not concerned about the pattern. That will come later. I then pulled out the pleating threads to the left and right of center until I had the correct amount of fabric left to pull into pleats. The amount the pattern suggested for gathering was spot on for the pleating as well.  Eight inches of my linen pleated down perfectly to fit the space on the sleeve. The sleeve lengths are now pleated, blocked, and starched and will be ready in the morning for stitching. I haven't decided on a pattern yet and will go hunting in the morning.

When I first started to crank the pleater it felt and sounded like my needles hit iron. I just knew that awful crunching sound was coming. I very slowly continued and it went along smoothly right to the end of the strip. Whew!  Hate it when that happens.

I have also cut out a  bias strip, not corded, to be placed between the facing and the lining. It is shiny white and will have a little contrast to the linen which should be good. Tomorrow I will order the cotton organdy for the inner neckline. I have been all over the place with what that inner collar should be made of going from lace to just more linen. I have found an interesting and wonderful fabric resource and will get into that on probably my next post. An order for cotton organdy will go out tomorrow....Bunny

3 comments:

  1. I adore this pattern so am watching your progress with interest. What is a pleater?

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  2. Gail, a pleater is a small "machine" hand cranked that has loads of odd looking needles across the bottom. You thread the needles and feed your fabric through. It comes out with perfect tiny pleats. With this link you can see the one I have. http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp00515-1329.html Thanks for asking.

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  3. This looks beautiful - can't wait to see it together - almost like sewing myself - almost, but not quite!

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