V1175, DK jumper #3

The shell is complete and all that is left is the lining which I hope to finish tomorrow. I will try to answer the issue of how I fit the bodice here. But first some things to be aware of. This pattern is amazing. Most bias edges meet straight grain edges. While that will keep the bias under control once it is sewn together, it doesn't help before that.

I have barely touched this pattern piece and look how this bias angle has grown. It's a good habit to place the pattern on your pieces before stitching them together but it is critical with this design. Another suggestion is to use a natural fiber to make this dress. I can't imagine dealing with all this bias and a synthetic fabric at the same time. This angle above is the hem edge so I just cut it to match the pattern, again! But other pieces I steamed back into the proper length after checking them and before stitching. That won't work well  with synthetics. The armscyes and neckline edges were stayed with thin selvedge from the lining. I didn't do that for the other pieces because they  met up against straight grain pieces which will hold them in shape once sewn.

All of those pleats in the front were marked by simply folding back the pattern and using the tailor's chalk that disappears with ironing. It worked great

I've have a request to show how I adjusted  the bodice. First, the front:

You can see how I pivoted out from the shoulder seam a half inch at the underarm. Then I pivoted back to nothing at the bottom. I also added height to the front neckline, starting with nothing at the shoulder seam and raising the center front a half inch. What this did was give me the ability to add another pleat with that extra half inch at CF, a way to add more shape for a C cup. Now for the back:

You can see once again how I pivoted out from the shoulder to the underarm and then back in at the bottom. Because of linen's ability to be steamed and stretched, as well as the bias, there was no problem fitting in the additional length on this seam. Every thing pressed out with the seams looking like they were the exact same size to begin with.

I got the shell finished tonight and have not tried it on yet. It's just too late. I have my fingers crossed  that it fits and we will find out in the morning when I do a try on.  In the meantime, I am hoping for a good night's sleep and a fresh start with the lining bright and early in the morning! More to come.......Bunny

ETA: I tried it on this  morning and it seems to fit much better and I am pleased. I want to add that the same adjustments need to happen to the lining. I did this by simply laying the adjusted bodice pieces on top and matching up the notches. For the center front this meant moving the fold placement over a bit to accommodate the additional width on the bodice front. The lining fits with very little extra ease in the skirt so I morphed that out from a 12 at the hem cutting back to the original cutting line at the underarm. This gave me the extra I needed in the hips for the lining. 

The Cashmere Jacket, Just Starting

Nancy Zieman lit my fire. For the past two weeks she has been teaching the Pivot and Slide method of fitting on her program. Watch mine on Public TV. I discovered this method of fit years ago from her earlier programs. I am so glad that she is presenting it again. I feel it is a method that is easy and provides success for most fitting issues. When I started using her method way back when, I finally was able to make sewn clothing that fit.

I started by taking my measurements. It's been a while (blush). Do we really want to know our measurements? After the trauma of increased post menopausal waistline, no growth in the hips, yippee, and some sagging boobiolas, we were ready to go with a size 6, per Ms. Nancy. I made my chart and it let me know how many inches, actually less than inches, to add to each of the twelve vertical seams. Aren't those princess seams special?

First I cut out and ironed every piece needed for the size 6 jacket. Then I traced around it with a blue pen onto what I thought was PatternEase. Turns out it was Decor Bond. That's OK because it was all DH's fault for not putting a new lightbulb in my back storage room. I think he thinks I won't put any more fabric back there if he keeps it in the dark! After I traced around every pattern piece I got out my pins and my pinnable mat and laid the actual pattern pieces over the tracings. I pinned. I pivoted. I slid. I used my second pen, a red one, just like Nancy said, to trace the new cutting line. I had so many adjustments to do that I wondered if this would really work. I think it did.

Next step, at least the way I do it, is to take what should have been Pattern Ease and stitch it together with a 4.5 stitch just like I was making the jacket. Then came the try on, the look in the mirror, and the thankful smile that Nancy was right, or at least it seems so far.

The cashmere coat has now turned into a jacket, which is fine. I also changed patterns to Simplicity 2812. There really is no view as this pattern gives you the options of various bodices and pocket treatments. I am doing the brown quilted one in the center. I like the vertical lines of the pocket welts, the princess seams, raised waistline, and the stand up collar. It is also a classic design, so worthy of the cashmere. Once the coat is done I will decide if I want a fur collar or just a fur hat. I am leaning toward a fabric collar and the fox fur hat. At the rate I am going on this project, Ole Man Winter will have me wanting a fur collar and hat!.......

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We had some dreary rainy weather yesterday. Around noon I got in the car to hit our tiny post office, catch up on gossip, and pick up the mail. I usually back track right back to the house but decided to drive the loop around our little village of three hundred fifty people. This road reaches a point where it turns to dirt for a few miles and there is not a home around. I thought the view of this misty, orange crowned road was just gorgeous. Time to share.(enlarge to appreciate)..................Bunny