V1175, DK jumper #3

The shell is complete and all that is left is the lining which I hope to finish tomorrow. I will try to answer the issue of how I fit the bodice here. But first some things to be aware of. This pattern is amazing. Most bias edges meet straight grain edges. While that will keep the bias under control once it is sewn together, it doesn't help before that.

I have barely touched this pattern piece and look how this bias angle has grown. It's a good habit to place the pattern on your pieces before stitching them together but it is critical with this design. Another suggestion is to use a natural fiber to make this dress. I can't imagine dealing with all this bias and a synthetic fabric at the same time. This angle above is the hem edge so I just cut it to match the pattern, again! But other pieces I steamed back into the proper length after checking them and before stitching. That won't work well  with synthetics. The armscyes and neckline edges were stayed with thin selvedge from the lining. I didn't do that for the other pieces because they  met up against straight grain pieces which will hold them in shape once sewn.

All of those pleats in the front were marked by simply folding back the pattern and using the tailor's chalk that disappears with ironing. It worked great

I've have a request to show how I adjusted  the bodice. First, the front:

You can see how I pivoted out from the shoulder seam a half inch at the underarm. Then I pivoted back to nothing at the bottom. I also added height to the front neckline, starting with nothing at the shoulder seam and raising the center front a half inch. What this did was give me the ability to add another pleat with that extra half inch at CF, a way to add more shape for a C cup. Now for the back:

You can see once again how I pivoted out from the shoulder to the underarm and then back in at the bottom. Because of linen's ability to be steamed and stretched, as well as the bias, there was no problem fitting in the additional length on this seam. Every thing pressed out with the seams looking like they were the exact same size to begin with.

I got the shell finished tonight and have not tried it on yet. It's just too late. I have my fingers crossed  that it fits and we will find out in the morning when I do a try on.  In the meantime, I am hoping for a good night's sleep and a fresh start with the lining bright and early in the morning! More to come.......Bunny

ETA: I tried it on this  morning and it seems to fit much better and I am pleased. I want to add that the same adjustments need to happen to the lining. I did this by simply laying the adjusted bodice pieces on top and matching up the notches. For the center front this meant moving the fold placement over a bit to accommodate the additional width on the bodice front. The lining fits with very little extra ease in the skirt so I morphed that out from a 12 at the hem cutting back to the original cutting line at the underarm. This gave me the extra I needed in the hips for the lining. 

The DK jumper, #2, V 1175

Isn't this a fun shape? I really like the hem at this length without the balloon effect., at least for now. If that continues I will just hem the dress and lining separately and leave it long. 

I decided on the pivot and slide which I think will work out the best for my shape. I added to the underarm and center seams this way for an additional 1 1/4 inch of width to the bust. I tried the slash and spread method, the remnants of which you can see on the muslin. It pulled things all awry and made big gapes as well. I think it just didn't work for my particular shape but I thought it would as it did for others. Pivot and slide it was! 

At this point I have the bodice pieces all on. Let me tell you, this pattern IS ALL about the marking! I used a legend and colored threads to mark things properly. 

It is really necessary. For the pleats I used a wax marker, the kind that disappears nicely when you iron. I drew in the direction of the pleats as well. That was VERY handy. I also made sure I laid the pattern out  for cutting exactly as shown in the directions. On my recent draped back tee, I ended up with a fine top but it was "backwards" from the directions in the pattern. With such odd looking pieces and such critical marking I just didn't want anything to vary from the pattern. So far it has all gone together really well.

I will say it has been bulky. I am using a light to midweight linen. And yes, it does look like denim. But it has that bit of linen glow which I love, and of course the wrinkles. This pattern has way too  many layers of fabric in places to make out of a denim and really needs a lightweight fabric.

At this point the fit looks pretty good and as I see this design unfold I think it will be flattering. The back hugs my narrowest part and that's always a good thing. 

Let's see if I can make it through the next steps, Wowsa!...Bunny