Thursday, January 7, 2010

The Collar Again.....

I have a sewing pet peeve. It is peter pan collars that don't meet at the center front neckline. I have seen them on garments in magazines occasionally and I find it hard to think that look is intentional. Perhaps if there is a design detail like a button or bow, you may want to separate the collars. But, IMHO, if it is a basic Peter Pan collar, it should match. Now, truth be told, I made this mistake myself for quite some time when my children were small. Then the light went on. YOU JOIN THE COLLARS AT THE SEAM LINE BEFORE SEWING. What I would do back in the day was meet the CF edges of the collars at the fabric raw edge, not the seam line. Then of course, when my machine went over it, the collars would be spread a good half inch apart at the seam line. Maybe I should have been brighter from the get go but in those days it was make it fast and make it many. I don't sew like that any more. (30 yrs ago)







First, I find the exact 5/8 inch spot on the collar CF edge. I mark that with a pin or whatever marker you like. Then I tape the two collars together with their 5/8 inch markings kissing. You can see the tape shining. Next I go to the machine and do 3 or 4 wide zigzag stitches on the markings . This is to stitch the two collars together. Pull off the tape. You will now be able to pivot the collars so the seam allowances overlap properly.

There is a lot of free play here in the SAs. Now do your normal pin and stitch the collar taking care to place  the zigzags a hair below the 5/8 SA at CF.

Remove the zigzags, press, and voila! IRL, you really don't see the bottom collar peeking out, a camera angle thing!....Bunny

16 comments:

  1. Excellent! I find patterns often where honestly, the collar is drafted incorrectly and does not fit the neck edge. Have to check everything!

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  2. Thank you so much for this, Bunny! I would never have known how to do this otherwise.

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  3. Beautiful Bunny. Collars are a peeve of mine too. Love it and your collar looks wonderful.

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  4. Thanks for this tip, Bunny. I especially appreciate the close-up photos that show your method in detail.

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  5. Thanks for this tip! I still make dresses with Peter Pan collars for my niece, so this will come in handy.

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  6. Lovely collar. I don't like collars that don't meet either!
    I'm not sure I followed the RC mystery binding technique, but I'll give it another "look-see". I'm storing up all these techniques for when I start making little girl clothing again.
    Thanks so much!

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  7. What an excellent idea - thankyou!

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  8. Excellent tip, Bunny! Thanks for sharing!

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  9. thanks for this tip and the corresponding pictures. I cannot imagine things in three dimensions so the pictures help me understand. I am going to make a dress for a little girl soon and this method will come in handy for the collar. Thank you.

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  10. Clever! Thanks for sharing. The dress is looking good :))

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  11. Excellent tutorial! I don't like it when they don't meet at CF, either. It looks like something is missing.

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  12. This was a big help to me. I almost always have to adjust a pattern with these collars. I would also like to see how you do the "grading" of your seams. I was taught in college, but it's been a long time. Would you also show the finished back of the collar on the dress when you are done. I also have a problem deciding how to do the back with the buttonholes. You are such a big help!

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  13. The tape is brilliant! I always had to fidget and fuss once I got the collars under the foot. The tape worked like a charm tonight! Thanks a million. Also, your winter wonderland pictures are incredible. In the deep South, we just have the cold, with none of the beauty!
    Cissie

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  14. That's what I do as well. I'm always surprised at how simple things can make such a difference in the end results. Your collar is perfectly executed!

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  15. Wow, thanks. I just learned to tat and made a collar edging for a smocked dress that's almost done. I had some trouble with the collar and have since stuck it on my "finish later" stack. This was just the nudge I needed! Thanks.

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