McCall's 6116 I find the directions inappropriate, particularly for printed fabrics. Their directions have you do a 1/4 inch hem and then roll your sleeves up and pull the tab from the underneath and sew it down, corralling the folds. As you can see in the sample above this gives you the wrong side of the fabric on the outside of the garment, not pretty. Here is what I did instead.
First, decide where the hem fold will be.Do this before cutting out the sleeve. My hem is about 3 1/2 inches deep. Fold the pattern piece on top of itself at that point. You will see that because the sleeve narrows you need to add a bit of width to the side seams . This way when the hem is folded up you won't be short fabric in your seam. OK, so now you have fixed your sleeve side seams and cut your pattern and your fabric. Good. Next, serge the bottom edge if you can, otherwise turn up a 1/4 inch and press.I don't like pressed roll up sleeves. I like them to look, well, rolled up. So I do not press in the hem fold.
Yes, this is really simple but how much simpler could it be to just give some better directions on the instruction sheet? I really, really wish I had the job of editing these patterns. I hope some of you try this pattern. It gives so many opportunities for fit. I wore the dress to work today and got good feedback. If you would like to see a different looking version, and a great one at that, check out Coudre Mode. Love how she used the piping.....Bunny