Friday, August 13, 2010

Vogue 1099 Badgley Mischka Jacket

I love how this pattern triggered my creativity. Above you can see what I did with the collar. I think it is so much prettier and unique. The original pattern has a double collar which stands tall against the neck, very pretty and a great look for a short person like me. However an Ah Ha moment occurred as I dressed it on my form and the outer collar flipped down. It hugged the shoulder line beautifully  and became even more achitectural. It easily steamed into submission and I love it. It stays there no problem.



From the front you can see the very interesting construction of the collar. The inner ruffled collar is slightly gathered and eased to the flat outer collar. They are both cut on the bias. Once they are basted together at the neck edge you push the ruffled collar back into the flat collar for about and inch and a quarter. It makes for a "how did she do that" type of look, too cool. Thank you Badgley and Mishka for that!  Here's a closer look and you can also see how I hemstitched the pleats and how the sleeves are inset into the bodice at an angle.




Now for the yummy sleeves. I did take these up a notch from the pattern. The sleeves are double, like the collar with a simple hem. My original plan,  the minute I saw this in the Vogue Pattern Book, was to smock the lower sleeve. I did. I did my two hems with machine hemstitching using a wing needle and size 80 cotton thread. The idea is for the holes to be prominent, not the stitch or thread. While Hermana Esperanza taught me how to do this by hand I think she would be happy with the results the machine turned out on this. She always had us working on nice linen so that must be where my love for this fabric comes from. The sleeves were BEAUTIFULLY drafted fitting perfectly into the shaped armscye. You can see the fullness is controlled by one dart at the top that lines up with the shoulder seam. I did nothing other than stay stitching and clipping to pull off  the angled sleeve shape.
 
Because my hand smocking was hidden by the depth of the upper sleeve hem, an unforeseen circumstance, I flipped it back and secured it with a mother of pearl antique button gifted from Ima. 
Here are a few more detail shots:


Now for some interior details. The jacket is 100% home dec weight linen purchased at Martin's in Bedford, NH. The lining is Bemberg rayon ordered from Sawyer Brook. The interfacing is my fave, Formflex from HTC.  I used a 100% poly charmeuse to make an uncorded piping strip between the facing and the lining. This pic below is somewhat distorted.


This got interesting at the jump hem. I used the method described in the tute in the sidebar on the right to deal with it. I bound the edge with Bemberg and then catchstitched in exaggerated crosses with floss to secure it. The trick with that technique is to plan on using it and doing it before you stitch the facing to the hem edge at center front corners.



The lining was sewn traditionally but the hem edge of the sleeve lining hangs free. It is secured by hand  stitching the lining in the ditch from the hem to the bodice side seam. I found the Bemberg to be quite stretchy  throughout and ended up cutting a good inch and a half off the hem edge of the sleeve. The sleeve lining hem was serged, turned twice the width of the serging, and hand catchstitched with floss like the jump hem.

I am really pleased with how this turned out. I know you probably want to see it on me but it is so well pressed I hate to take it off the form to get wrinkle again. Difficult, aren't I? ;)
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If you are searching for the Sew Beautiful Blog Tour you can scroll down to the previous post or just click on the Blog Tour box on the right. Hope you enjoy.

I have already started my next project, a traditional little dress for my friend Charlotte's first grandchild/daughter. More on that to come. It is moving along pretty quickly. There will also be a post about my purchase from Stauffers, rather comical, more to come and thanks for stopping by.....Bunny

26 comments:

  1. Oh such a super luscious jacket! So fine...

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  2. This is so unbelievably gorgeous. Love all of the beautiful details.

    Trudy
    www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

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  3. Now how pretty is THAT! Stunning work, Bunny!

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  4. Bunny, your work is absolutely beautiful!!! I am so impressed with the personality you infuse into your works of art!! Please do have a picture taken of you wearing your delicious creation.
    Bonnie

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  5. It's a work of art! Truly luxurious.

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  6. Beautiful jacket - I love all the tweaks you made!

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  7. The details are just amazing, gorgeous Jacket!

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  8. It is just lovely! Have fun wearing it!

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  9. Your jacket is incredible as I knew it would be. I love the way you used the little button to show off the smocking. Clever! You need to enter this one in a contest of some kind.

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  10. Awesome! I so want to make that little jacket and have had the pattern for a year. You inspire me!

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  11. As I've already said, you did a wonderfully magnificent job on this jacket. You continue to amaze and inspire me, thank you!

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  12. Absolutely amazing...as always!

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  13. Bunny - you have just elevated that from great to fabulous! All of those extra little touches...and smoking the sleeves...are just awesome! I am just blown away by your version of this jacket!

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  14. I love this pattern, I love white linen. Your interpretation is absolutely stunning.

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  15. Breathtakingly beautiful! Definitely heirloom quality...

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  16. Just gorgeous! I love all the heirloom sewing techniques, and changes you used on the jacket to make it uniquely yours. When I made my version of this jacket, the sleeve gathering did trigger a brief "wouldn't that be neat with smocking" thought. It passed quickly because I have never done smocking.

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  17. OMG - don't you just love a well-drafted and thought-out pattern like this. It really does get the creative juices flowing. And who says we aren't designers - this is definitely a one-of-a-kind and a heirloom - I can hear the fights over the jacket now after you're gone! Beautiful, gorgeous detailed work!

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  18. Oh this jacket is amazing!!! I've loved this pattern since I first laid eyes on it and am planning to use it one day. I'm glad to see that the pattern works so well. Thanks for sharing!

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  19. Bunny, I am in awe of your skills with needle & thread! The is just exquisite...love the fabric, love the smocking, love the stand up collar & the special attention to inside details. Yes, Hermana Esperanza would be proud!

    I sure could have used your help this week. I struggled to get a shawl collar & front robe pieces to fit the back of the robe. I rechecked my pattern...thought I had cut something wrong, but no, I didn't. I checked the size of my darts.....maybe a wee bit off but not enough to give me fits like it was. I STILL don't know what the problem was!!! Each shoulder of the back piece was at least 1.5" wider than the front pieces. I even took out the center back seam between the front pieces & took it down to 1/4" to get a wee bit more width. *sigh* I'm sure you could have looked at it & instantly seen what was wrong.
    Would you consider moving to OHio??? :/

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  20. Oh, you've outdone yourself with this one, Bunny! It is just breathtaking, elegant, gorgeous, everything!

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  21. FAN-TAS-TIC! WOW!
    I'm in complete awe... I bow to you, Bunny!!

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  22. It's amazing! What a wonderful job! Stunning!

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