Simplicity 2313 - Doin' the Happy Dance!

My warm, cuddly, soft wool jersey sweater is done and I so love it. It just feels so cozy on. It is Simplicity 2313, a versatile  little jacket pattern with all sorts of varied collars and sleeves. It has shoulder princess seams, the better to fit, and they finish in the side seam, not at the hem. If you are not an hourglass and want to be , this pattern will definitely  give you that sillouette.

There is a peplum at the back which while not bias, flares out just the right amount.

 The fabric was felted in the washer and dryer and lost a third of its size but gained the ability to hold a cut edge without ravelling. I had to give a fair amount of thought into the edge treatments. For the front under bodice I edged the raw uninterfaced edges with a strip of the felted wool triple zigzagged  on. Then I cut back the right edge to the stitching to show both levels. A rotary cutter is a must on this project. For the bias ruffle and the back peplum I justs left the edges raw. The buttonholes were another challenge. I used one of the methods shown by Linda Lee in her Threads article. You simply cut a small rectangle and place it where the buttonhole will go. Then you stitch into it a 1/8 inch wide box for your buttonhole with a 1.5 stitch length. After that you cut the original fabric square back to the stitching line of the inner rectangle. A final slice up the middle to open the BH and your done. Care had to be taken in the measuring but other than that we are talking easy peasy here.

I didn't think the tucks in the ruffle would look right but I think you will agree, they really do and I am glad I kept that pattern detail.

I would highly recommend this pattern as I really think it has a lot of style. However, this requires a muslin, for sure. That princess seam ending in the side seam right below the waist could be a challenge. Here is what I did to get this to fit:

• First, the pattern was "petited" as in the tute in the side bar.
• Reshaped the princess seam from the apex to the shoulder for my narrow upper chest. 
• The sleeve was given an additional two inches width in the upper arm area. It was also tapered in two inches at the hemline. The sleeve  pattern basically is a rectangle. My new altered sleeve was wider at the top and narrowed as it got to the bottom hem. I actually like wearing the sleeves rolled or pushed up, that wrist hangup I have.
• Shortened the sleeve length. 
• Added an inch to hips. 

I like the sweater-y fit on this and it is very comfortable. I also love the red color. I really need to wear more red. This is the only piece of red I own and it suddenly seems not enough. Can you tell I like my sweater?

  Caveat:
My second day of working on the sweater was my second day of a burning sore throat and hacking cough. By mid afternoon I realized I was surrounded by the tiniest powdery red wool fibers everywhere. Could that be it? After a night of hacking and burning, I sewed the sweater the third day with a mask on and  major improvement. As soon as I was done it was time to totally vacuum every nook and cranny of the cave and wash it all down. I have been getting better ever since. The red powder was pervasive. That has never happened to me with any other project I have sewn. I may have itched a bit with the fur and a cough or two but nothing like this.....Bunny