Sunday, August 21, 2011

Mc6076, Near Disaster!

 
When is the last time you saw me with a wadder? I can't remember either. This one came very close. But if you have been reading here for some time you know I am persistent if nothing else.  I am glad about that as I now have a shirt I love. 

Pattern: McCalls 6076. I did a size 8 morphing out to a 12 at the hips. This is a classic shoulder princess style, one that I love because of all the opportunities for fit. Everyone should have one of these in their arsenal, all tried out and true. They are really simple construction if you stay basic.

Fabric: I used a 100% cotton oxford cloth, warp was black, weft was white. I chose to do my stitching with white thread. Interfacing in the collar and facing is a Pro Weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

Construction: This is where it gets interesting as well as nearly shot in the trash can. This pattern was inspired by one on the Yasmine sight, loaded with pintucks. I knew that would take up the fabric but I also needed my design to work around the princess seams which remained to be fitted. In the end I cut my seams wider  and did just a few tucks before I fit. Once fitted, and it fine, I did the rest of the pintucks and moved on to the collar and facings. When that was complete I tried it on again to judge the shoulders. It was tight, too tight. WTH? Whatever reason I went into panic mode for about a nano second as my tucks were all done and so much time/effort were invested. I measured my armscye. I measure my sleeve cap. As suspected from just looking at the cap there was way to much ease in the sleeve cap and I knew this fabric would be a stinker to ease nicely. Once I figured out I had ease to waste I decided to cut a godet and install it from the top to the bottom of the side seam. I figured out how much I needed and added half inch seam allowances.
I think it looks fine and with all the stitching and seams it appears intentional. It now fits perfectly, tragedy averted.

The pintucks were all done with a pin tucking foot, perle cotton for cording and a 1.6 double needle. No problems there. I used my Frixion pen throughout the construction and must say I love the fine line that it gives and how it just disappears with the iron. I am a convert. The pintuck top threads were all brought to the back and tied off with the bobbin thread and cord. Here's a view of  some back detail. You can see that I made the princess seam one of the pintucks. I also pintucked the under collar so that when I wear the collar up it makes a continuous line with the CB pintuck, just as in the original Yasmine shirt.

Another change I made to the pattern was the hemline. I am finding that a shaped hemline is much more flattering to me.  No big skill needed here other than picking the right size dish from the cupboard to help make the curves.

As far as other fit issues, I did my usual "petiting" to the pattern

This is what I call a hard fabric meaning it is not a fabric that will ease nicely. I helped the pressing along with my new tool, a broken kitchen spoon. You can stick the spoon edge right into the cap seam and press away.
Other than the pintucking, this pattern, as it comes out of the envelope is  really pretty simple construction, quite classic in look, and I would highly recommend.
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Last night DH and I came in the drive from an evening out about 11:00pm. Darting across our field, like it was on the Serengeti, was one of these captivating fellows:
A Bobcat! He looked just like this picture. It all happened so fast there wouldn't have been time to get a camera if we wanted to so I am sharing a very similar nighttime photo from Google. He was quite large and we think he weighed between 30-35 pounds. He truly ran like he was flying across the Serengeti. We were quite thrilled. We have often heard about these bobcats but have only met one person who ever saw one. Now we have! ...Bunny

33 comments:

  1. Bunny, what a gorgeous shirt, and the godet looks entirely intentional. Brilliant save. I love all the little details you built in with pintucking. And the use of such a subtle fabric is a perfect balance to the intricacy of the embellishments. Why, I would steal it right out of your closet, if I were a thieving type of person!

    And the bobcat is amazing.

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  2. Just gorgeous, Bunny. Your workmanship is such perfection. That was a great save.

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  3. Beautiful blouse. So happy to hear you came up with a fix for it. It does look as tho it was part of the original pattern design. Re: the bobcat, I was fortunate enough to see one up close and personal at the animal hospital where I volunteer. Last summer, a rescue group who catches injured animals and rehabs them to be returned to the wild, brought one in for a leg injury. Sedation was tricky, but all worked out and the beautiful cat should be back to his "wild" activities by now.

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  4. Great save!!! That blouse is utterly fabulous! Lovely work!

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  5. It is beautiful- hard to believe it was almost a wadder!

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  6. I was thrilled to see you use this pattern as I had made a note of the number the last time I was looking through the pattern books at our JoAnns fabric. Your version is stunning! Great save too. Now I know I must purchase this pattern as soon as the next sale.

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  7. Just gorgeous, Bunny. What a beautiful work of art.

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  8. It's just beautiful! And what a save...just love your work Bunny!

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  9. I love the pintucks and how it moves your eye upward. I looked at the pictures many, many times. Excellent work.
    Beckie in Brentwood, TN

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  10. Beautiful job on the blouse with all the pintucks and especially the godets. It looks so professional. I looked at the Yasmine site and can see what a great job you did with that inspiration.

    Cute kitty! I haven't seen one near me, but here in So Cal they build tunnels under the freeway so the bobcats can move around. Apparently the different populations are being increasingly isolated by the freeways and are in danger of becoming inbred. I don't know if the tunnels are working, I'll have to do some research on it.

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  11. Beautiful blouse! Your mastery is amazing!

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  12. I love a woman that never gives up! Beautiful blouse with a "special" design feature.

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  13. Perseverance! Sometimes those challenges in sewing is what keeps is interesting for us :-) Your blouse is beautiful.

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  14. good morning! I am totally in awe of your fabulous blouse! I had grabbed pictures from that web site a while back, they are so inspiring... and now I'm inspired to actually tackle two of them! Thanks, as always, Bunny for doing such a wonderful job of documenting your work.

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  15. Nice save, and who will know? NO one but you. That's a very pretty blouse. Great job, as always.

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  16. What a wonderful, wonderful blouse! Those pintucks are beautiful.

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  17. Ahhh, did you hear my intake of breath when I saw this beautiful blouse? Lovely, lovely and a wonderful save. I

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  18. OmGoodness the blouse is stunning, love all the details and great save too.

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  19. Bravo, bravo!!! Simply stunning and so very elegant!

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  20. Your blouse is so beautiful. I love the way the pintucking is straight and evenly spaced and then goes "wild" in the shoulder area. Great save.... I mean side seaming. I know my heart would be beating fast if I saw a bobcat, even from the safety of a car. They are beautiful creatures though.

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  21. Bunny that near disaster actually turned into a plus . I have had a few of those and actually produced better garments as a result . Its great to remember this in other aspects of life dont you think!! Well done . You have inspired me .

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  22. Beautiful work Bunny. Bet you can't wait to wear it and show off all your wonderful talent. Lexie

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  23. Your blouse is stunning. I am interested in how you designed the shape of the godet. It is such a clever way to save a near loss. I would definitely like to keep this in my fix it possibility file.
    Thank you for sharing you work is so beautiful.

    Marie

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  24. Wow absolutely beautiful and if you hadn't had told us, we would never had known about the last minute save.

    You have inspired me

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  25. It's a gorgeous shirt Bunny. I love the pintucking and your tute on the collar is wonderful. I am finally planning to sew a shirt and I've bookmarked it for future reference.

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  26. Awesome and very, very inspiring. Thanks for the tutorial, I'll include it my "turtorials site". Hope that's ok.

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  27. Such an elegant blouse, and great save! I, too, have found the curved hemline to be more forgiving sometimes. Yours looks great!
    What a thrill to see the bobcat!

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  28. Fantastic save for a Fantastic creation, Bunny! This looks soooo upscale & expensive, with the curving pintucks. Well done!

    I've been hearing lots of good things about those Frixion pens. I had one incident where yellow chalk would NOT brush away on a quilt I was making. I wanted to cry! I think I need a pen.

    We saw bobcats all the time in FL. I even mistakenly tried to shoo one away from my garbage can before I realized what it was! Needless to say, I did NOT go for my walk that morning.

    Hugs,
    Rett

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  29. Where to start?!?
    I LOVE this blouse. Love the inspiration, the color, the collar, the sleeve length ( EVERYTHING about it!!! I may have to knockoff your knockoff!!! LOL!
    And thanks for the refresher on NZ's method of doing a collar. I HAD seen this before, but hadn't seen the part where you check the ends and trim to make them identical -- what a concept! Thanks!! I AM curious as to why it ended up tight? Was it the pintucks taking it up more than you thought it would, or was it just smaller than you expected, to begin with? (I'll need to know the answer to this when I knock it off!)
    And thanks for the link to Yasmine's designs - LOVE most of her stuff as well.
    As to the bobcat - YIKES!!! Not sure "thrilled" is the word I would have used.
    Designdreamer

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  30. Beautiful blouse; love the pintuck detailing. Great save btw and it looks like it belonged in the pattern.

    We lived in the bush for many years and seeing bob and lynx cats were quite common. Where we live now, not common though we do have a few cougars around.

    Ann

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