Saturday, March 30, 2013

Cynthia Rowley Top Finis!

Can you tell I am happy with this one? Well, I am and will make it again. I think the picture taking and editing was the worse. I did have to do a bit of fiddling with my pic editor to show you the details. White and black fabrics are notorious for needing that. The 411:

Fabric: 
     97% cotton/3% lycra damask in a reptilian design. It has lots of crosswise stretch. I purchased it forever ago as a lining for something that never got made. Since I adhere to the "Just Cut It" philosophy of fabric hoarding, I will buy more lining if I ever get to that project. No biggy, you can't take it with you, and this blouse gives me a lot more satisfaction sewn up than sitting in a long queue.

Pattern:
     Simplicity 2192, a Cynthia Rowley design. Aren't her looks great? I find them very wearable. I had  a minor issue with this pattern. First it did not spec any grading of the edges or understitching and I did both where needed. Next, it has you face the neckline and topstitch near the outer edge of the facing. That is perfectly fine and what I did. But when you get to the hem at the very end, it has you turn the facing to the right side for a totally different look, that of a facing turned to the outside.  While I think that is fine also, it is not consistent. I believe in repetition of details, not having one of each method. So be aware of this and do one or the other, either outside neck  AND hem facings or inside and topstitched on both.  This is definitely beginner doable.

Fitting:
      This is an easy pattern with lots of ease. The bust and hips on the size 6 are 40 inches finished measurement so keep that in mind. That wide width falls from dropped shoulders. This is NOT a fitted top.  I did my usual "petiting of the pattern" as detailed in the tutorial in the right sidebar. I flat measured also, not trusting those pattern measurements, to make sure I had the right amount of width/ease.  I think it is real important to do this with every pattern. Trust nothing. Half the time the measurements aren't what's stated. I decided to do a small FBA anyway. 

Construction:
     Pretty straightforward. The sleeves went into the armhole easily. I installed them flat as the pattern specified. While not spec'd, I decided to topstitch the armscye seams.  All seams are stitched and serge finished. This fabric was very ravelly. I did not turn under the facings. Attention needs to be paid to the where the hem facing meets the side seam. The directions are really clear here so you shouldn't have any problems, just pay close attention.

I also  added the pintucks front and back which I really like and feel it kicked up the top a bit. I go into detail on how I did that in the last post prior to this one. The pintucks were inspired by a crease along the CF & CB folds. It is totally camouflaged now and adds some design interest. Pintucks at the faced hem and over the shoulder.
I got caught up in my picture taking and couldn't resist a seated one in what my hubby calls my "throne" and that despite not fussing with hair or makeup. Why the heck not? Highly recommend this pattern.


Next in the queue--- another white shirt, this one out of seersucker and it's Simplicity 2225.
Happy Easter and Passover everyone! May you all be blessed with a warm, sunny celebration!...Bunny

Reality check, 05/09/13: This blouse has worked out wonderfully. It washes well, is very confortable and I get tons of happies from people when I wear it. I like  the bit of spandex and it is very confortable and versatile. A definite TNT!


26 comments:

  1. Looks great! I expect it will be a real wardrobe workhorse.

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  2. This is really pretty. I love the pintucks. You always do such imaginative details.

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  3. Beautiful top, Bunny! I wish I'd known it was such a winner when I was buying Simplicity patterns the other day, but I'll just add it to the list for next time!

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  4. The pintucks really make it special.

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  5. The pin tucks absolutely make the top! It looks fantastic and it looks like it will coordinate with many different bottoms.

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  6. I like it! Even better, I think I have this one!

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  7. I like it, too. The pintucks suggest lifting eyes up to your face and that is a good design, IMHO

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  8. Brilliant idea with the pintucks - they just make the top perfect!

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  9. I think at this stage of my sewing I instinctively try to make things smaller for my ample hips and wider for my narrow shoulders. Those pintucks are an example.

    Thanks everyone for the lovely comments. I am altering my next pattern as we speak.

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  10. Great top - love the tucks. Some beautiful details there.

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  11. Those pintucks really make the blouse. Love it!

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  12. I love your special touch to this pattern with the tucks. Love "the throne"!

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  13. That is a wonderful top and you are such a great sewer.

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  14. Great top! The fit of it on you is great. I'm not asking your measurements (as that is a VERY personal question), but since you were talking about ease in this pattern, how much ease did you end up with on this blouse? I would like to make it and have it fit like yours. I have the hardest time figuring out how much ease I want in a non-fitted blouse. Thanks. :)

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    1. No problem, Rebecca. I have a very narrow torso, particularly my back and shoulders but I take a C cup bra. My hip bones are wide and ample. To figure the ease on any pattern, let's say at the bust or hip, look at your pattern. Check the bust size of the pattern you are using. It's 30 1/2 inches on the size six here. I use a six because it best fits my neck, upper back and shoulders. Now measure the front and back pattern pieces making sure you don't include seam allowances. That measured 40 inches. Subtract the actual bust measurement from the flat pattern measurement and that gives you the amount of ease. So in the example here there is 5 1/2 inches of ease. To maintain the look the designer had in mind you need the same amount of ease after you have made your FBA, I usually divide the needed amount among all the pattern pieces but this design had so much ease. I did a half inch FBA adding only to the front bodice pattern pieces, none to the back. You are allowed to make judgement calls here so I cut the ease a little closer, more like 4 inches. Now at my hips there is less ease, more like two inches because the hips are bigger than my bust. At least at this age they are! Hope this is clear and it helps. Flat pattern measuring and comparing is a good habit to get into.

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  15. Tres chic.. I love hoe elegant and interesting this top is... Looks beautiful

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  16. I think the pintucks are what make this plain top - they really give you a lovely line through the garment.

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  17. lovely top - I loved your pintucked McCalls blouse and this one just as much. Beautiful throne by the way

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  18. Lovely. Those pintucks make it special.

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  19. This looks super on you, Bunny! Great detailing...LOVE the pintuck solution to the crease, too.
    Your "throne" is very elegant & you look regal, sitting there.

    I wish for you & E. a Peaceful, Pain free Easter holiday.

    Hugs,
    Rett

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  20. Ditto to all of the above. Your decision to add tucks elevated this design, and as usual you have inspired me !

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  21. Oh, that is precisely the top I want to sew! That looks so very nice, Bunny. Very pretty.

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  22. I'm with Rachel - tres chic!! You look wonderful in it - the style is definitely all for you :)

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  23. Love the pin tucks!!! Great top.

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