Cynthia Rowley Top Finis!

Can you tell I am happy with this one? Well, I am and will make it again. I think the picture taking and editing was the worse. I did have to do a bit of fiddling with my pic editor to show you the details. White and black fabrics are notorious for needing that. The 411:

Fabric: 

     97% cotton/3% lycra damask in a reptilian design. It has lots of crosswise stretch. I purchased it forever ago as a lining for something that never got made. Since I adhere to the "Just Cut It" philosophy of fabric hoarding, I will buy more lining if I ever get to that project. No biggy, you can't take it with you, and this blouse gives me a lot more satisfaction sewn up than sitting in a long queue.

Pattern:

     Simplicity 2192, a Cynthia Rowley design. Aren't her looks great? I find them very wearable. I had  a minor issue with this pattern. First it did not spec any grading of the edges or understitching and I did both where needed. Next, it has you face the neckline and topstitch near the outer edge of the facing. That is perfectly fine and what I did. But when you get to the hem at the very end, it has you turn the facing to the right side for a totally different look, that of a facing turned to the outside.  While I think that is fine also, it is not consistent. I believe in repetition of details, not having one of each method. So be aware of this and do one or the other, either outside neck  AND hem facings or inside and topstitched on both.  This is definitely beginner doable.

Fitting:

      This is an easy pattern with lots of ease. The bust and hips on the size 6 are 40 inches finished measurement so keep that in mind. That wide width falls from dropped shoulders. This is NOT a fitted top.  I did my usual "petiting of the pattern" as detailed in the tutorial in the right sidebar. I flat measured also, not trusting those pattern measurements, to make sure I had the right amount of width/ease.  I think it is real important to do this with every pattern. Trust nothing. Half the time the measurements aren't what's stated. I decided to do a small FBA anyway. 

Construction:

     Pretty straightforward. The sleeves went into the armhole easily. I installed them flat as the pattern specified. While not spec'd, I decided to topstitch the armscye seams.  All seams are stitched and serge finished. This fabric was very ravelly. I did not turn under the facings. Attention needs to be paid to the where the hem facing meets the side seam. The directions are really clear here so you shouldn't have any problems, just pay close attention.

I also  added the pintucks front and back which I really like and feel it kicked up the top a bit. I go into detail on how I did that in the last post prior to this one. The pintucks were inspired by a crease along the CF & CB folds. It is totally camouflaged now and adds some design interest. Pintucks at the faced hem and over the shoulder.

I got caught up in my picture taking and couldn't resist a seated one in what my hubby calls my "throne" and that despite not fussing with hair or makeup. Why the heck not? Highly recommend this pattern.

Next in the queue--- another white shirt, this one out of seersucker and it's Simplicity 2225.
Happy Easter and Passover everyone! May you all be blessed with a warm, sunny celebration!...Bunny

Reality check, 05/09/13: This blouse has worked out wonderfully. It washes well, is very confortable and I get tons of happies from people when I wear it. I like  the bit of spandex and it is very confortable and versatile. A definite TNT!

Cynthia Rowley Meets Chado Ralph Rucci

I''m half way into my next project, Simplicity 2192, A Cynthia Rowley design that's been around a bit and I think it pretty cute.

 

The top is a simple box with a faced curved hem. Boxy things don't always look good on me but I am putting summer comfort first here to get a blouse that will give me tons of wear this summer at work. This is also the first of my White Shirt Binge, with two others all lined up in the queue. 

The fabric is a nice hefty cotton with the usual 3 % lycra. It is the drape and look of a soft aged damask with a sort of reptilian design.

I started cutting the pieces and realized the pressing I did did not take out a crease. What to do? I decide a bit of corded  double needle pintucking would be the solution, very Chado Ralph Rucci.  Simple blouse, simple pintucking, so I ran a straight line of PT down the CF and CB and used my hip curve to radiate two more from the hemline.

 

First, I lifted my plate to give me access to that wonderful little hole in the needle plate that sits in front of the needle. I passed through a bit of crochet cotton, maybe a size three. Pull out a good length behind the presser foot and replace the plate. In this pic you can see how the cord enters a tiny space between the plate and the machine. 

Double needles are threaded and raring to go!

 

I ran some painter's tape from top CF to bottom CF and after did the same on the back. I lined my needles up and started with that cord in my left hand for the first few stitches to get it taut into the seam. Then the machine just automatically feeds the cord. I made sure it was pooled in my lap so it could feed smoothly. Since one straight line down the front and back wasn't going to quite make it I took my hip curve and frixion pen and marked lines on either side of CF and CB. 

 They were stitched from the front hemline, over the shoulder, to the back hemline.

My pintucking is complete and the blouse sits on my form. I need to do a bit of fit before proceeding but have serged all the edges inside and am so close to completion. Mo' lata'..........Bunny