Sunday, May 26, 2013

Simplicity 1783 Complete!





I love this blouse. It turned out differently than expected but I am pleased nonetheless!  Here's the 411.

Pattern: Simplicity 1783, another Cynthia Rowley design. It is simple but has a few challenges that might put off a beginner but I say go for it. It's worth the effort and you will gain a few skills from the experience.

The design is fitted from the waist down with release pleats. There are also two box pleats at the neckline and there is a LOT of ease here, 40 inch bust finished measurement on a size 6. The back has a peekaboo placket, actually just a finished open seam that ends in a loop and button at the neck. The neckline and sleeve edges are bound with bias. I used self trim but this would be darling with a contrasting trim. I would have loved to used black trim but I wanted some versatility with this top so the black was out. 

There is also an invisible zipper installed upside down in the side seam.

Fabric: 80% rayon, 20% linen. It's in the classic oatmeal color that belies less expensive linens. Doesn't that oatmeal linen come from Poland? Anyhoo, this did not come from Poland. It came from JAs and you know what that means, the Pacific Rim! (I'm so polite.)  But the combo is what I love. It has that linen look without all the wrinkles and the beautiful drape of rayon. It washed beautifully on cold water, gentle with no shrinkage. 

Construction:  The order of construction is a bit different but that is because the top needs to be hemmed before installing the invisible zip.You have to pay attention with this pattern. I found all the different size markings for the pleats a bit confusing and suggest you find  your size and mark the lines with a colored marker.  
Back to the zip - the pattern says to put the zipper stop right above the hem. Then you turn in the SAs on the zip. While this makes the zip close all the way down wrapping the zip SAs around the hemmed SAs is bulky and could have looked better if the zipper end 3/4 of an inch from the hem edge. I will definitely be making this one again and will do that.

Also, because of the slightly different order of construction, It is hard to fit this top. You can't adjust just one side seam if you find it too tight,once that zip is in. The best way would be to let out the pleats as needed. I would recommend stitching the waist/hip pleats with a basting stitch and then fit before putting in the zip. Then adjust as needed.  Also do flat pattern measuring before cutting anything out. There is loads of ease in this pattern so it's hard to flub. Unless......

Are you swayback? I now realize this is an important adjustment to make if you are. The hip area fit fine on me and measured out fine. Because I didn't do my petiting I have a blouson effect happening in the back. But truthfully, I like it and call it a design detail. Next time I MIGHT do a swayback adjustment but I also might leave it the way it is. I like the blouson effect.
I think wearing this with a belt would look great and take care of my lack of SBA. 

All the seams are serged and most topstitched as well. That's my standard way of dealing with linen and finishes it off so nicely inside. 

The sleeve hems run very narrow and fit over the wrist just barely. I think a slit would be cute on them and may do that the next time. For now they are bound like the pattern. The hem is simply serged and double stitched.

Conclusion:  I will definitely make this again. I will try a swayback adjustment and a slit or larger lower sleeve. Other than this, it's love. This would be stunning in a charmeuse. I like how this design is soft looking, has ease (unlike all the knit tees out there), and is not the same ole same ole wrap or tee top. I like that it has some curve appeal also without being tacky tight. I don't care for tacky tight. Negative ease gives me anxiety attacks.  It's nice to have other options and this one will go in the Tried and True status with those adjustments. Highly recommend with reservations regarding techniques required....Bunny


The Deer River is raging today. We have had a week of constant rain. You can see the white water between the trees in this pic I took from the dining room window. Below is our fire pit, way underwater.

I hope your holiday weekend is sunnier, dryer, and a lot more fun than what has been going on in the Northeast this weekend. Bless all who went through the horrid tornadoes in the Midwest. I'll take our blizzards any day.........Bunny

19 comments:

  1. Gorgeous blouse. Simple and classic. Very elegant.

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  2. Very pretty! I haven't seen 80/20 rayon/linen. I'll have to see if I can find some.

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  3. Such a beautiful blouse, Bunny! Why, oh why, didn't I grab this when I was scooping up Simplicities at the sale today?!

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  4. That looks super. Although the bust has plenty of ease, it doesn't look as full as on the pattern envelope. I'm glad to see a top with such nice details.

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    1. Remember, I'm a C cup so I think on smaller cup sizes you will see more fabric folds with those pleats, like on the pattern. Pattern Review has some good photos of this on women thin to larger.

      Congrats on the move and that fabulous new sewing room to be, Gwen!

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  5. What a pretty, pretty blouse! VERY nice details!

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  6. The color, the design, the review, it's stunning and something for me to aspire to.

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  7. I really, really like this top and will take all of your suggestions to heart before making it. Thanks for your comprehensive review of this pattern.

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  8. Such a beautiful blouse, Bunny!

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  9. I love your version of this blouse. I kept returning to the pattern while looking at the Simplicity book this weekend in JoAnns....but I know it's not a style that would look good on me. So glad to enjoy seeing it take shape in your sewing space.

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    1. You might also want to check the reviews on Pattern Review as it shows this blouse on some very varied figure types.

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  10. That is a classic beauty Bunny!

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  11. I always enjoy seeing what you create! And your workmanship is superb.

    Interestingly, my (extended) family in Poland has sent me fabrics over the years...luscious buttery soft wools and beautiful finely woven linen/flax pieces among them.

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    1. Interesting! We always think of Irish linen when we think of linen but I remember reading about the Polish linens. I love linen no matter where it comes from. It is such delight to sew.

      Thanks for you comment. Always appreciated!

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  12. Lovely top Bunny. Your fabric choice really shows off the pleats in the top. I would not have bought this pattern, but your fabric choice really makes it special.
    Get ready, you're probably in for a little more rain as we had rain last night and throughout today as well.

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  13. I love this blouse and will try it out. It looks lovely on your new dress form! We caught a bit of the rain last Monday when we visited our son in New Haven.

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