Simp 1783 and Those Scratchy Innards!

 

Plans have changed! Before I start any new project I read the pattern  thoroughly.  When I did this, after I wrote the last post, I realized that the lovely placket I was thinking of doing was already there in the pattern and that the zipper spec'd was in the side seam, opening from waist to a couple of inches below the armpit, basically installed upside down.  I decided to go with the construction per the pattern. I have done these underarm invisible zips before. I like the look. I do not like  the scratchy itchies that happen  in the area at the top of zip under the arm. The semi rigid zip seems to love to dig into that area.  So I decided to do something about it. And that crooked seam? It will disappear as you will soon see. 

First I found a little piece of poly taffeta in the stash and cut it into a rectangle. I fold back the bottom and two sides and pressed. The top is left raw.

This rectangle is lined up on the bottom of the zip which in this case at the top. The zip was installed upside down and  longer than the opening and cut back and stitched to stop the zip from pulling out. It's a lot easier to install an invisible zip this way.  You wrap the side folds around the seam allowances and then  hand stitch the bottom fold to the zip. Next I stitched it to the seam allowance to keep it safe until the sleeves were installed.

Now I don't have to worry about the itchey scratchies.

I have to say, I think I have another TNT. I am loving this pattern, particularly in this fiber blend of rayon and linen. It wrinkles just enough to look good, if that makes sense. All I have left now is the handwork which is basically bias bindings to be hand finished on the neck and sleeves and a hand worked button loop. I can't wait to wear it!...Bunny