Tuesday, September 3, 2013

The Burrito Yoke

Once my bodice was flatlined it was time to install the zipper and pockets. Done and really quite quickly on the zip. Before I can put in the casing for the waist drawstring the side seams need to be sewn up and before I can do that the yoke needs to be sewn. I could have just seamed it to the bodice front and back and then do a Hong Kong seam but I really didn't want that cross line of the bound seams. I decided on the "burrito" method for the yoke. I have often used this concept for collar stands and occasionally for a yoke or two over time. Can I remember how? It all came back pretty quickly.

This pattern, Simp 2153, has you cut one fashion fabric yoke and just stitch it to the jacket. NO, No,no...I cut one lining piece and one public fabric piece, aka, fashion fabric. This yoke will be faced in lining fabric.
 

A sandwich was made with the right side of the FF (fashion fabric) back bodice and FF yoke facing each other. On top of this went the lining yoke facing the lining, right sides together, four layers here total. This is stitched across the horizontal yoke back seam, graded,and pressed toward the yoke. Now comes the burrito part.  Lay the front bodices face up. On top lay the back bodice face down. Pin the two FF front yoke seams together as you see in the pic above. I stuck the pattern directions behind the lining yoke as it gets lost with that print. Stitch those two seams. Press toward the  yoke.
ETA, 9/18/14:  Do not topstitch the front yokes yet. Doing that will not allow you to use the seam allowance to continue this process. See this:yoke alert!

 

Flip the lining yoke back down and start rolling up the bodice until you get to the yoke seam as shown above. Simple enough, right?  The pic below is what you should end up with if the above pic is turned over. Nothing has been changed, just  the pic taken from a different side of the roll.


Bring the back lining yoke up to the seam you stitched in the very first picture sewn here, the front yoke seam of just the fashion fabric.

These seams shown above get stitched together. The jacket is all rolled up inside,just like a burrito. OK, so it's a cliche, but that's what Margaret Islander calls it in her DVDs.  Here is a pic of it all pinned and ready to stitch. I bet she used pins for this part. (Margaret I. was famous for sewing without pins.)
Once your burrito is all stitched up at the front yoke seams, grade the seams. I like to use pinking shears for this. Then, making sure all the pins are out, pull the roll up jacket out of the yoke. It really will come out and it really will be clean finished inside with no SAs showing. Give it a little press along the front yoke seams and topstitch. TaDah!



Next, those crazy sleeves!...Bunny



8 comments:

  1. Looks great Bunny! I've always been leery of trying this thinking that the neckline would stretch out. Perhaps I need to give it a try. Can't wait to see the zip treatment!

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  2. Super tutorial, super photos...as always! I'm loving this jacket and crinkled fabric the more I see of it!

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  3. This is going to be one lovely little jacket.

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  4. fabuloso, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos

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  5. You really should consider a second career as a sewing instructor, Bunny! I bet Martha P. would hire you to come down to Huntsville in Feb. I'd be there to take a class from you in a heartbeat!!!

    Delicious looking jacket so far...lovin' that fashion fabric & the lining is pretty too!
    I've made pillowcases with the "burrito" method, so I understood this easily.

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  6. Yes, you are a great teacher. Thanks for the tip!

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  7. I use this method for Mike's shirts - you have done the perfect tutorial and sure lots of people will thank you for this. Can't wait to see the finished jacket.

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