Sunday, March 2, 2014

Pocket time!

 This work shirt has two pockets on the bodice fronts. What I do to have matching pockets is fold the hems back and then place them right sides facing. Make sure they are the exact same size. I then stitch around the pocket, except for the top hem edge, with wash away thread in the bobbin and on top. The two pockets are now stitched together. Bring to the ironing board and hopefully a seam roll or wooden dowel and iron open the seams WITH a DRY IRON, NO STEAM. Turn them right side out and iron with the dry iron again, pushing out the nice curves. I use an old wooden spoon for this. Once you are happy with the shape, now use the steam and press. Use lots of steam. It will quickly melt the thread and the two pockets will pull apart easily like this. Where the arrow points has not been pulled apart yet. Sorry for the blurs.

Now they are ready to place on the bodice and topstitch down.  I used double sided basting tape to secure them to the bodice. I think it caused an issue. The sleeves are done and all that remains of the bodice is the neck band and collar. I have topstitched and ironed all over with no problems at all, except that the pockets really show something happening near the edges. like a strong show through. Everything else on the shirt looks fine so I am going to attribute it to the wash away tape, give it a wash when completed, and call it a day. I have other topstitched enclosed seams and none look like this. The shirt has been pressed on a thick towel to prevent ridges and that worked everywhere else. Has to be the tape.

I love to try out new things all the time and thought it would be a bright idea to do the topstitching in the variegated jeans thread from Gutterman. NOT. I did samples stitching straight and they look fine but when I did the little zigzags I like to put at corners of pockets or at the top of plackets, etc., it looks really messy.  Instead of a smooth glossy little zigzag, I have what looks like a mess because of the different way the color change picks up the light. I know I'm being uber pickey here but it would have looked better with plain old thread for topstitching. No more TS-ing with variegated threads. None, nada, zilch.

All that is left is the collar and buttons. For buttons I interviewed all sorts, blues, silvers, natural beiges, wood. I am going with the simple dark beige tailored buttons unless something else brilliant comes along. They really did look the best. And with all the buttons I've inherited over the years it's hard to justify a new purchase. This should get done pretty soon and then it's on to another top or two. The wardrobe omissions are calling me.
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And this is someone's not so funny idea of springtime in the Adirondacks. High tomorrow? 4ยบ !!!

18 comments:

  1. Another clever idea and so helpful to have the photos to help me "see" the process. Thank you for sharing. I'm only a little north of you and I'm also not laughing about the snow that fell last night. But it is going to warm up by week's end!

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  2. Really a great tip on the pockets!

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    1. Glad you liked it, Linda. That little bag also has a wound bobbin of wash away thread in it. You have to keep them in the bag tightly closed or the humidity will "melt" the thread. It's really great stuff, particularly for Madeira work.

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  3. Wash away thread, thats crazy! Yeah we've had some crazy weather where I am too!

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  4. Bunny, your shirt is looking great. I have to say I think you are over thinking on this. I mean, it is a throw-on shirt. It looks fabulous. Have you seen what is out there in RTW for this kind of shirt -- and at what price??? Just go with it and enjoy wearing it. It's not like you're wearing it to a wedding!

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    1. I am seriously going to take your advice, Cissie. Life is too short!

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  5. Love the way this project is coming together. That is a lot of snow!

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  6. Looking Great There! I Never Heard Of.Washaway Threads! Will Look Out For It :) Keep Warm!

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  7. That is a brilliant idea to use the wash-away thread to get both pockets the exact same size!! Never would have thought of it. I'm pinning this one for future reference...thanks, Bunny!

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    1. Rett, I learned this somewhere at some time but only wish I could credit whoever showed this technique. I've been using it a long time for Madeira applique but only the past couple years for more tailored situations. thanks for the pin.

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  8. I love it when you do posts like this. Love love love the pocket tips. Thank you so much!

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  9. This very clever. What a great tip. Thank you so much!!

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  10. I thought I recognized that trick from Martha Pullen when she does scallops and Madeira Applique...never thought to do it for twin pockets...you clever girl! Variegated thread is cool for topstitching but it never seems to make very nice small motifs. Spring is coming....really it is!

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  11. The pocket idea using soluble thread is genius. It will be great for little baby pockets that I never seem to make alike. Thanks, Susan VH

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    1. PS if you want to see what I was doing recently check out The Old Fashioned Baby Blog

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    2. Will do, Susan. It would be great on those teen little pockets!

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  12. I am not a much of a blog commentator, but this is just genius. Bunny, I really appreciate your blog. You are such a professional - that's how I like to sew! (although I don't always achieve it!) Sharing your pain -- 2 degrees this morning in Eastern MA.

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