One Sleeve Tweaked and Done!

At 6:00 this morning, while reveling in the post election joy, pride, and punditry, I went back to the first sleeve on my jacket. It was installed and after numerous try-ons, twirls around, and re-inspections, I decided the cap was too low. The sleeve did not make that nice extension and roll the way it should. I have been using Simplicity 2812, one of the Project Runway patterns. My version is the short jacket with the stand up collar in the center of the pattern cover. (No view letters here!)

I did this pattern in a size 6 and did an FBA, and "petited" the pattern by eliminating a half inch between the shoulder seam and the first notch, front and back. That is my usual MO. Upon try out, I decided I need maybe 1/4 inch more shoulder extension and a higher cap. My sleeve was already installed and trimmed, sleeve head and all. So what I decided to do was rip out only the area from notch to notch at the top of the armscye. This had the full seam allowance still intact. Then I simply resewed the seam at 1/4 inch instead of 5/8ths tapering in as needed. This worked great except I now did not have the bulk of the full SA to extend into the sleeve cap. In that sleeve cap I had installed Acro interfacing on the bias for about 3 inches of the cap, and a flanellette sleeve head already but it needed just a teeny bit more help. This was accomplished very simply by moving out the shoulder pad a bit. That works great for me as my narrow shoulders usually have the inside edges of the pads pushing on my neck and they have to be trimmed. So I am pleased with the result and will go on to install the other sleeve today.
The pattern called for a tab or a pleat on the sleeve and I was not crazy about that, too much bulk with this fabric. I decided to do two darts instead, giving a slight balloon to the sleeve. These sleeves are fairly full, but the better to go over all those turtlenecks on those cold Adirondack January days.

Yesterday I worked up some samples of toptstiching using all sorts of threads. I have decided on a double strand of carpet thread with a prickstitch, aka backstitch, every 1/4 inch. It makes a nice little slightly glossy bead that shows. Everything else I tried sunk into the fabric and heck, why bother if it doesn't show. So there will be a lot of handstitching to do before inserting the lining in this puppy. I am done with my handwork project, the Christening dress, so am ready and willing for some more handwork.

The christening dress is done! I also worked up the pattern for the petticoat, a definite requirement with the sheer fabric of the dress. I need to play with my fonts in Word to get the style and layout for the embroidery I'll do of the baby's name and birthday. Hope to have that out in the mail by Monday morning. Pics coming...............Dang, I'm productive before the sun comes up!.....Bunny