Sample Time Again!

On to a new project, Simplicity 3789. It is one of the BCD Cup collection blouses. I have been anxious to try one of these patterns as I have so many adjustments for tops, FBA, petiting, sleeve lengths, hip width, and sometimes more. I didn't do a muslin for this blouse. Instead I flat pattern measured and it sure seemed like there was enough ease there so I dove right in. Once I completed all the tucks on the front I pinbasted the princess , shoulder, and side seams and gave it a try on. It actually fit. So now I am at the point of putting it together and I will probably do that tomorrow. Enough for tonight.

The fabric is a really yummy handkerchief linen, very nice quality, in a dark olive green, not brown like it looks on the computer. It is a perfect match for a couple of Liz Claiborne pieces I got last summer.

I am doing View C, the one with the tucks. The pattern has the tucks just basted in and then stitched on the horizontal at the waist and high bust. Then the basting comes out and the fullness of the pleats is available for more ease. I did mine a little differently. I stitched the tucks down permanently and have no plans of any horizontal stitching across the tucks. The blouse fit fine without the additional ease of the tucks popping open. Then it was sample time. If you have been reading here for any time you know I am a big sample maker. With the help of ideas from "Fine Machine Sewing" by Carol Ahles, I decided to do some hemstitching on the tucks, cuffs, and collar. After a few trials, the right stitch length, tension, etc were worked out . (More samples for the sample box!) Then I stitched down the six tucks. You can see in the pic a white strip to the right of the presser foot, what I call my "stitch dam". I used a box cutter to hack out of a roll of 1/4 inch masking tape a strip about 3 inches long and a little over an 1/8th of an inch deep. I put it on the machine where I need the seam width to be. It is movable and stays sticky but if need be, you can just pull of one of the stips of masking tape and you are all ready to re stick again. The height holds the fold of the fabric in beautifully for these tucks.
Each side of the blouse has three of these hemstitched tucks. I used what's called a "Parisian stitch" to do these. It looks like a blanket stitch but goes in and out of the same hole several times, leaving much more thread behind. Normally, I would do this on a child's garment with fine size 60 or 80 embroidery thread which would leave larger holes, normally the goal here. But on this adult blouse I used regular thread due to color issues and I like the heaviness of it all. The stitching was also done with a wing needle. I interviewed a size 120 universal but the wing needle gave better results. I almost always use the universal needle for hemstitching so this was interesting. I think the thickness of the thread needed the wing needle to work best.

Tomorrow will be more actual construction and some button hunting. I am thinking french seams but am not 100% on board yet so we will see......................

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Thanks for all the nice comments on the wedding picture. I actually had a portrait that showed the dress detail much better, but I just love that photo.
Summerset asked what year was the wedding. 1970! Yes, we were married as babes, high school sweethearts, and have been married happily for almost 39 years. We are truly blessed.

Summerset, I had the typical for the day, parted in the middle, down to my butt , long straight hair. The curls were special!

Design dreamer, that gown did cover a lot, my convent upbringing!

Amy, thank you for the info on Flashback Fridays, greatly appreciated.

Also, thanks to all for the feedback on the pants. I now realize that my dipped waist is the way I am built, and not a fitting mistake. The pants hang properly so she scores. I can't wait to whip out another pair of these. I would love some in a heavy black linen and will be on the prowl for that.........Bunny