The Little Red Coat, Part 1

First, thanks to all for the wonderful, encouraging comments on Carly's Bishop. They are greatly appreciated and really do egg me on. Thanks again.

Yesterday was spent tracing off, cutting out, and interfacing The Little Red Coat. For this jacket, I am using the Swing Jacket from Gail Doane's book, Sew Cute Couture. Two of her versions are on the front cover above. Here is the line drawing:

Sorry for the dark image but with the flash it the image just glared and disappeared off of the glossy paper. You can see the back pleat and the sweet curved yoke. There are so many design possibilities and I am still not firmed up on the embellishment.

A few words on the cashmere - it has a strong nap and you need to sew it like velvet. Be careful when cutting that all pieces follow the nap, which should be going down the garment. Basting seams helps hugely. Cashmere is more like hair than wool so great care needs to be taken with the ironing. Put a big fluffy towel doubled up underneath. Always use a press cloth and iron as little and as gently as possible. To press your seams use a dauber. This is a must have for anyone doing any sort of tailoring. Take a strip of wool. Fold in half. With the fold up, wrap tightly and tie up with a tight rubber band. Instead of using steam on this fabric I dip the dauber in water, run it down the seam, (you can see the water beads in the photo) put the press cloth on top, and press with the edge of a dry iron till the press cloth is dry. I put the edge of the iron right into the seam holding the iron at an angle. Remove the press cloth and finger press. If you get seam ridges use some paper bag strips under the seam allowances as you press. Cashmere scorches very easily so all this care must be taken.

Handling the interfacing needs a soft hand. Don't beat this stuff into the fabric. Always use a press cloth. You can see how I cut back the SAs to help eliminate the bulk, one of those great Roberta Carr tricks that has always stayed with me.

The LRC will be underlined with well washed flannel but first the embroidery has to be done. I may get as much done as I possibly can except for the embroidery. I am scheduled for some surgery next week that will put me down for a bit with bedrest so will hold the embroidery until then.

Props to Gail Doane who has graciously given permission to reprint her book cover and tech drawings. She advises to check the length on the sleeves for her jacket patterns. The models used were quite tall and on them the sleeves are shorter than she would like. So double check. Thanks, Gail, for the heads up. I did lengthen the jacket, but only because I wanted it to match one Carly already has in it's length. It was increased by 1 3/4 inches. ...Bunny