The Badgley Mischka Lining Changes

Because I wanted to run the line of piping completely around the facing I had to make some changes in the directions on the pattern.

The facing shoulder seams were sewn first and pressed open. This is not the order shown in the pattern. Then the piping was attached. THEN I sewed on the bodices, front and back. I stitched from the facing side so I could stitch on top of the same stitching line used to attach the piping. This made everything come out even.  Next came the tricky part. The armscye and sleeve is cut square about 2 1/2 inches left and right of the shoulder seam, not real evident in the lining because of its flimsiness. I did the same, stitching just this top section of the sleeve again from the facing side so I could be right on the same stitching line as the piping. I think that's real important here. Once this upper squarish darted section of the sleeve was in I then proceeded to stitch the bottom of the armscye. Then came another line of stitching all around, 1/8 inch away. The seam allowance in the upper section was left in tact and serged. In the lower section it was trimmed back to the second stitching line and also serged. By following the stitching line of the piping from the facing side an even installation was had all around.

Another change I made was to the lining sleeve. Vogue has you gather the center of the lining, just like the jacket sleeve, the area where I smocked. I thought this might give too much fluffy bulk so instead pleated out the fullness. The bemberg took the pleats beautifully, really flat, so this was definitely the right move. I don't want to look like I am going to fly away. You can also see in this pic that the seams are french seams. Other than the armseye, all seams in the lining are french seams.

At this point I am still eagerly awaiting my organdy. If you are used to fast internet fabric purchases buying from Stauffers is not the way to go. But I have patience and it will come. In the meantime.....

what the heck are these little cooties? I went to iron my lining with my Rowenta and it has a clear tank. To my horror I saw something floating in the tank. I immediately shut it down and poured out all the water. Out came these two ironing buddies. EEEEeeeeeuuuuwww..................