Bumblebee Dress Part 2

 

This is what I decided on for the Bumblebee Dress, Simplicity Daisy Kingdom 2464. I just love this pattern. The back is elasitcized and the shoulders tie together at the back neck making a peek a boo hole, too cute! My plan is to do the shoulder areas, trim at waist and chest and the hem out of the white linen. It is a linen poly blend. I want this to be washable. Its another quality fabric from Ima's legacy. The midriff and skirt will be the black and white check, 100% cotton that washed beautifully. It barely needed ironing.  The white shoulder area will be embroidered with BULLION BEES! I think this will be lots of fun.

Because Sophie is so tall and slender it will be a size four with some height modifications. I will add an inch to the upper chest and back and 3/4 of an inch to the midriff, then a couple of inches to the skirt. First order of business is getting the embroidery done. That means I will have to adjust that shoulder pattern piece. It goes from back waist to front waist and is an unusual shape with the back tie and hole. More on that tomorrow! Once the pattern is adjusted I will trace the shoulder pieces on to a block of white linen and proceed with the bumblebees. One the embroidery is complete, the shoulder pieces will be cut out. I think I will line this, at least the top.
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Now on to the pants...First order of business is to make the piping for the slant hip pockets. Here you can get an idea of the size of cord I like to use. It's a fine crochet cord, 100% cotton.  I did NOT cut the cover  fabric on the bias as there is much lycra stretch and cutting on the straight lets the twill wrap around the cord with a bias look. You all know I am a big believer in sample making. I made a decision to wrap the piping with floss but wasn't sure of the color. I did three possibilities on a piece of cording and then installed it into fabric as it would show in the actual pocket. While I did this with the faux garment parts on the wrong side of the fabric, I think you get the idea. 

My choice is the center floss, the lightest one, a subtle effect. A hint if you decide to do this,,,the hand stitches can be spaced out by counting the actual machine stitches for the piping. I came out on every third machine stitch. I used all six threads of the floss.

Once the piping and pockets are installed I will put on the Hong Kong seam finish. One advantage of a Tried and True pattern is that usually only minimal adjustments are necessary and the seams can be finished in the flat stage, much easier.

I have found that this fabric is yummy but sewing this lycra/wool blend requires that I lift the presser foot every few inches to prevent "pushing", even with my even feed foot. But, so far so good with Ms. Lycra B. Wool......Bunny