I did not quit. I woke up this morning deciding I would give it one more try. I cut a new muslin, in the smallest size, Then I "petited" the pattern and that was it. But I am not done. Here are pics:
There is a tiny bit of pulling at the center upper back. I will let out the sleeve/back seams a tiny bit to release that issue. Making the smallest size really made a difference. I also decided, like Shams, that the sleeves would be simple straight sleeves, no ruffles! The ruffled sleeves are lovely but they put all that volume right at my hip level. So, no way. The center back needs a swayback adjustment but nothing like before. My jacket will also be much shorter so that will help as well. This muslin does not have any back darts. I will be making this up in a felted wool which I really think will suck up some of these issues with it's softness and thickness so I am not sure if I will bother with the back darts.
The next thing I decided on was an FBA, Full Bust Adjustment and also add a dart. I think this will make a major difference. The front now looks much better than it's first muslin as you can see below before the FBA and dart.
On the left is the original pattern piece I messed with and once done retraced to the bodice front on the right. I worked on this puppy all afternoon but that's OK. This morning I had a plan and it was that I promised myself I would give this ONE more day of trying and that I would follow my instincts and cut the smallest pattern, petite it, and do an FBA, what I do to every pattern I make. With that strategy, the pattern only took my usual adjustments. So all this hoo hah about Betzina's different sloper and to make sure you get the pattern by your measurements is just that, hoo hah, IMO. Now to the wool and the final tweaks with some very crossed fingers....Bunny
There is a tiny bit of pulling at the center upper back. I will let out the sleeve/back seams a tiny bit to release that issue. Making the smallest size really made a difference. I also decided, like Shams, that the sleeves would be simple straight sleeves, no ruffles! The ruffled sleeves are lovely but they put all that volume right at my hip level. So, no way. The center back needs a swayback adjustment but nothing like before. My jacket will also be much shorter so that will help as well. This muslin does not have any back darts. I will be making this up in a felted wool which I really think will suck up some of these issues with it's softness and thickness so I am not sure if I will bother with the back darts.
The next thing I decided on was an FBA, Full Bust Adjustment and also add a dart. I think this will make a major difference. The front now looks much better than it's first muslin as you can see below before the FBA and dart.
You can see above that the center front is not meeting as it should at the bust. So a dart, and an FBA will take care of that. You can see the opposing grains in the front sleeve/bodice seam but I think that is one of those things some felted wool will suck right up.
Here is the new pattern piece with it's dart and FBA on the right.
Hurray for persevering! The pattern is lovely and that first muslin was so disappointing. Looks like it will work beautifully now.
ReplyDeletethanks for your encouragement. We are almost there!
DeleteThumbs up, well done!
ReplyDeletePerseverance thy name is Bunny! I feel like I'm nuts some times when it comes to fitting but it's worth it. To invest time in a garment that doesn't fit the way we want it to is disappointing.
ReplyDeleteYou are so right. I've been thinking if I get this right it would be lovely in a silky blouse weight fabric maybe for the holidays. Then again, I may never want to see it again!
DeleteI am glad you followed your gut! This muslin is much improved over the previous one. You are on your way to success!
ReplyDeletethanks, Tomasa. A bit of a way to go but getting there!
DeleteGood on you for sticking with this. Today's muslin is a big improvement over the previous one. I know your finished jacket will fit you really well!
ReplyDeleteThis one looks like it has promise. Way to persevere! ~Teri
ReplyDeleteBunny, please know that each of your frustrations and solutions becomes valuable lessons in fitting to those of us who do not share your skills. Thank you for persevering!
ReplyDeleteit's interesting that the last time I had these types of fitting frustrations was with a Marcy Tilton design, very similar situation. I did end up chucking that one as I never could get her collar to work. But now I look at her patterns and all her collars seem sort of chunky hunky so maybe it's me trying to make her design into my type of look. But isn't that what we do when we sew? Thanks for your comments.
DeleteI can really see the potential in this jacket now. I actually bought the pattern after seeing some of the versions around the web, but haven't gotten around to trying it.
ReplyDeleteThis is why I love your blog. You keep it real and the result is more than a pattern company's fashion show, it's a sewing lab. Very grateful for what you do with your blog.
ReplyDeleteI really appreciate your comment, Urbanite. Thanks.
DeleteOh Bunny,
ReplyDeleteYou are such a darling..................my talented friend. By sharing as you do, you make me feel that I shouldn't beat myself you and think I am a failure when things don't work out right. I am not as talented or as experienced as you, but as ever, you drive me, and I am sure others on to new heights. I wouldn't be the sewist I am today ( and still have far to go) without the generosity of spirit you and other such talented ladies share with us.
Doesn't this new muslin look so much better. Yet again, it shows that gut instincts and tenacity really do pay off.
Could you share with us how you felt fabric. I always trust your tutorials.
Looking forward to seeing this progress.
Mayrsia, I simply wash and dry the fabric on HOT water and Hot dry. I always do a sample first. In this case it took two rides through the washer and dryer to get it to felt enough. That is not always the case.
DeleteI just want to add that I have discovered that the waistline darts are way left of the bust apex, in an odd position. I moved them over in my pattern and I think that will also eliminate some of the fluffiness released near the side seam and underarm. You can sort of pick this up in the line art on the pattern. I could be wrong but I've always thought that the waistline dart should point toward the apex. I'm also considering not doing darts at all. We shall see.
ReplyDeleteYes, this is going to be so beautiful on you!
ReplyDeleteMuch better! And I do so admire your determination...I see another gorgeous "bunny creation" in the making here.
ReplyDeleteIs it just me or is the back a little tight in the hip area? I'm sure you have seen this and have better ideas than what I could offer, but I thought perhaps some of the wrinkles in the back might be released if the hip area were increased a bit. The felted wool might take care of this too, but I would also be tempted to narrow the center back neckline area (?). Can't wait to see this in your beautiful fabric! Linda S.
Not really. There is plenty of room but the pants I had on were a "sticky knit" and the top kept sticking. I agree, Linda, that usually opening up the hips some more often makes the swayback issue disappear. I appreciate you're noticing it. Thanks.
DeleteI'm glad the smaller size is working out. I agree about the SB sizing -- I just found the measurements that corresponded to my usual size and chose that. I'm not sure why they can't just be called by the number they correspond to. Anyway, I think that neckline is going to be lovely on you!
ReplyDeleteDetermination the sign of all good seamstress :-)
ReplyDeleteHi Bunny, This second muslin really looks good. Thank you for documenting your process. I have this pattern and plan to make it "one day". Looking forward to your next installment.
ReplyDeleteWow this shot at the muslin is much improved! I'm really impressed by your pattern-altering skills. I think this is a really beautiful design and I can't wait to see your final garment!
ReplyDelete