Vogue 9305, an asymmetrical delight!
I am really pleased with this top from Vogue 9305. It is basically four pieces with turned up hems and edges. Doesn't get much easier! It goes together quickly and is great for a bit of instant gratification.
First, let's get a bit of housekeeping out of the way. I wore this with flowing white linen pants, perfect combo, this past weekend. They are in the wash and I didn't want to hold up the review so used this white cotton twill number. This flow-y top definitely styles better with the softer, wider legged, slightly cropped white linen pants. Next, as we start anew here, you will my find my photos have me with no makeup other than lipstick, just warning you. I have recently developed excema in my eyes. It is responding well to treatment but makeup, even foundation or concealer around the eyes is out Thank heavens lipstick is fine! So you may find my face not quite so dressed up. I do miss my makeup as I love that girly stuff!
I had to lighten the pics a lot to give you a better grasp of the detail and fabric.
Housekeeping done so let's move on to this top!
Vogue 9305 is described by Vogue as a "fitted tunic with sleeve variations and shaped hemlines." Vogue warns that the wrong side of the fabric will show and it does so keep that in mind when purchasing fabric for this design.
You will notice in the photos that the junction of the left and right side is at the left hipbone. I felt this wouldn't be that flattering for me and chose to make that intersection closer to my natural waist and thereby elongating the leg, that petite thing! Aside from vanity, I also felt raising that slit would help me cut this pattern down to my petite frame. It seemed to be a better proportion for me. On the last post there was discussion about this pattern possibly not working for those of shorter stature. I disagree. With the right adjustment I think I got it to work.Above you can see I removed 3/4 of an inch from the upper chest. I knew these sleeves would be too low, as they always are for me, so didn't hesitate to just tuck out some length strait across the upper chest and into the sleeves. The next length reduction was from the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern near the waist. I took out 2 inches there. The last reduction was a bit above the half way mark for the curved right front hem. I took another two inches out there. The same amount was taken from the right front flounce piece as well as across the back in the same three places. This got the longest part of the tunic about 6 inches above the floor which felt right for my five foot frame. Removing all this length meant the side seams had to be trued before cutting and that is the white paper you see on the sides of the pattern pieces. I simply used ironed on freezer paper. You can see the 4 or so inches where the flounce connects to the right bodice with a serrated line above.
I did more altering to the pattern as well. Based on reviews I lowered the center front collar two inches and removed a half inch from the rest of the collar. I recommend this. It may enable you to make this dress without a center back seam or closure, further insuring this design to be a quickie construction. I am able to easily get it over my head now.
No FBA was done this time but I have lost a bit of weight so no need.
You can really get a good idea of the fabric in this photo of the rear on my form. It is a rayon crepe in a navy and grayish tie dye colorway. It prewashed beautifully with no shrinkage. Hard to believe, right? The tie dye pattern runs along the grain for the most part. The fabric is VERY flow-y which I think this design warrants. You will also see here that I didn't have enough fabric to make this tunic or at least to make it so the design ran on grain. By deciding to add a waistline seam to the back of the garment and cutting the upper back bodice on the cross grain the amount of yardage worked . The back skirt was on the length. From the get go I did not want a back seam or closure but unfortunately laid my new back bodice out without the benefit of clear thinking and put the fold 5/8 of an inch out, thinking it was a seam. I did not have enough fabric to recut and just moving it over did not work with the sleeve design. To solve this the back bodice gained a center back seam, which actually was a 5/8 inch tuck. This put everything into the proper place and life went on. Here is a closeup of the neckline to give you a better idea of the crepe finish to the rayon. All of the pictures have been lightened substantially so you can better see the detail and fabric.
I serged all edges before construction to eliminate the raveling this fabric could provide. Hem edges were simply serged and turned. The underside of the hem is visible with the flounce but it blends in and works. For the neckline I did a French binding, aka, double fold bias binding, that I understitched and turned to the inside. I really didn't want topstitching here. There is a lot of weight hanging from the neckline edge and shoulder seams. To secure it I took some light grey DMC floss and embroidered French knots all around the neckline. Shoulder seams were stabilized with selvedges. Do you cut off all your selvedges and keep them in a jar for these moments? Comes in handy!
The center back seam was eliminated by cutting the back skirt on the fold. The back bodice also would have been cut on the fold if I hadn't mucked up but the tuck came to the rescue.
I suggest cutting the neckline larger as it is quite close for a summery look and probably not that comfortable or flattering. Doing that, along with cutting on the fold eliminated any need for a closure, making this quick pattern even quicker.
In the end:
I would definitely make Vogue 9305 again and recommend it highly. It CAN work for petites with the right length alterations which are easy to do. Make sure you use a fabric that is not stiff. A well washed linen would be lovely. Stabilize those shoulder seams as they carry a lot of weight and it wouldn't be a bad idea to stabilize the neckline too with a light tricot fusible in the binding or on the neckline seam, extending a tiny bit into the bodice. I really hope to see some of you try this pattern. I think it could be quite flattering on the large, the small, the short and the tall. I can see it being made in a chiffon and going over a strapless or tank-ish jumpsuit. Highly recommend! Vogue, you hit a home run with this one!
Next up....................the Burnside Bibs. Can this grandma carry off Rosy the Riveter meets Mr.Greenjeans?..........Bunny