I do not like these pants. I do not like this pattern. This is why:
The Pattern:
This is Vogue 1873. I did View B, the straight legged version. Both have paperbag waists, pleats to make that happen, sashes, belt loops, side seam pockets and faced fly zippers. I've made several wide legged pants with pronounced waistbands over the past year and they all worked out rather well. I thought this version would join that group. Uh, no, but, first the pattern. This looks like a pretty straightforward design. Vogue could not have made it any more complicated.
As a veteran sewist who has learned many things the hard way, I read ALL the pattern instructions twice before even cutting out the fabric. Once I did cut everything out, taking extra care with grain as I always do, I immediately went to marking. There is a lot of marking on this pattern as anyone who has worked with pleats can tell you. I did it all on the wrong side of the fabric, my usual habit unless told otherwise.
I assumed that the waist would involve a small hem all around but not so. It is a 2 inch or so fold of fabric that you make while flat that covers up all the markings that the instructions told you to do at the beginning. All the pleating and darting is done with the two layers of fabric together, basically on the right side upside down if you are sewing on the inside of the pants. Whatever, I had to remark it all and it made for a bulky waist as well . The fly installation is also confusing. Just good luck with that. I am still not clear on how the flaps of the fold work in there but I did get a nice clean finish in the end.
When all done I made the sash and tried it on with the sash which I thought I would like. It made for too much volume around the middle on top of my hips. It looked awful with the sash. If you make this pattern, do a mock sash before you waste your time making one. A trim leather belt improved the look a lot. You have to fuss a bit to get it all to lay and stay right, another negative for the pattern design. Do you really want to fuss with that every time you need to hit the Ladie's Room?
Fabric:
The fabric I used is one of my absolute favorites. It's the only fabric I hoard and keep a steady supply of. It is Kaufmann's Essex Linen/Cotton cross dyed blend. I just could never sew enough of this. I now feel I have wasted it here but alas, I will wear these for more functional, hard working times around the house and feel good that they are in my favorite fabric. No complaints on that at all. I made the pockets from a panel of quilting cotton, nice and thin. Why am I standing like this? To show you how deep the pockets are on me. They end way down my thigh, too low. They also tend to make the front pleats on the pants puff out, not a great look. I should have used my five foot tall brain before installing them. To me, one who does not like pockets, they seem like huge pockets. I am going to sew them shut and cut them off.
Construction:
Direct quote from pattern: "Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue." I did and then they did not completely show when the waist hem was folded over them before stitching said darts and pleats in. The pleated waist band and darts are not stitched in until the pockets and faced fly zipper are completely done.
ETA: If I made these again, I would eliminate that big foldover of fabric and just do a 1/4 inch hem at the very top of the pleats at the area of the fold. It would make these pants simpler to make and far less bulky. I believe it would also be more in line with a lightweight summer pant as shown.
On to the fly - This is a fly with fly facings, plural. I don't think my husband has any pants with double fly facings on each side of the zipper. But, hold on, it gets even thicker! The facings are completely interfaced. The right facing is two layers of fabric, one of which is interfaced, sewn WS together and turned. The left facing is one big layer, folded and totally interfaced so two layers of interfacing, all sewn, WS together and turned. All of this backs the zipper installation. Just way too bulky for what is really a casual pair of summer pants, overkill, IMO. It makes for some difficulty at the very bottom of the fly with all that bulk. I sewed my waist hem in by hand around these facings as I couldn't quite get what was wanted in the pattern. The pattern did recommend "slipstitching" the upper edge of the right fly to the pants, but the picture was quite confusing. I moved on.
The crotch seam and the fly zip were all complete no pleats, darts, waistline yet. Next is the pockets. I did my own thing and the whole time thought they would be too long for my short legs. They were. There was no recommendation to tape the pockets. I did.
One thing this pattern does is suggest a lot of is hand basting and I did like that. They have you hand baste down the waist hem fold and then you start making the darts and pleats.
Last but not least, you make and apply the belt loops. Ignore the pattern placement for this. Try on your pants and decide for yourself the best place to install them. The placement, if you follow the directions, will give you a totally flat belt loop. I realized the foolishness of that when I tried to get the two layered five inch wide sash thru them. I unstitched one end of my loops, pushed them up to make a bit of space in the loop and redid them. So, don't follow the markings on the loops unless you want flat belt loops.
The pattern simply suggests you stitch through the belt loops. I did a fine zigzag thru them, top and bottom. I also did that on the top and bottom of the pockets and the zipper, sort of a hefty bar tack.
In Conclusion:
That picture above of the back says it all. Of all the wide legged pants I have made, not a single one had this gross wrinkle issue in the back inseam area. It was far wider and worse and with a broad U shape at CB before I did the Cheater Gusset. I guess I didn't cheat enough but at this point I have had it. It is far better than it was and I have to fault the pattern. I have not had this problem with any other pants pattern. I refuse to put any more effort into these pants. They may just hit the donate pile, that, or the gardening pile.
This design could have been so much simpler and with a much better fit. Every step of the process seemed to be overcomplicated and never a regard for bulk in what is marketed as a light summer pant. It was a cluster of aggravations. I would not recommend this pattern and regret the time I spent on it and the loss of my Essex Linen yardage. The good news is my current project is making me happy again with my sewing.
Sidebar: If you look at the picture of me with my hands stuck out in the pockets take a gander at my sloping shoulders. This is a new development. Many women of a certain age, particularly with osteoporosis as I have, will start getting a rounded upper back and the need to adjust for that. While that hasn't happened to me, yet anyway, over the past year I have really noticed my shoulders sloping and it became really evident with the lovely dress I am muslin-ing for the wedding I will attend soon. You will see more on that soon and the solution. I hope you enjoyed sharing in my trials and tribulations. There are better days a comin'........................Happy Sewing,,,,,,,,,,Bunny
Oh, Bunny, donate them. Every time you wear these weird pants, even for gardening, they will irritate you, and who needs that? Onward to the gorgeous dress!
ReplyDeleteAmen.
DeleteAnd while I have some attention, I also do not care for the fold situation of the pleats. I've made numerous pleated trousers. I really like them. These pleats are too big and far apart and face in a way that is not flattering. Years ago, from a Sandra Betzina book, I learned that if you want to make your tummy look flatter, turn the pleats toward your hips. If you want to make your hips look smaller, turn them toward center front. It works. I should have ignored the pattern and done that.
ReplyDeleteThere may be enough fabric to recut these in a slimmer style that you've made previously and already know you like... maybe. If not pants, perhaps shorts? A shame to get rid of the fabric if you love it.
ReplyDeleteThat's a good idea. I just have to let them simmer on the back burner for a while. Thanks for your input.
DeleteThanks so much for writing and posting this "beware" critique. And yet, the pants look great on you.
ReplyDeleteI guess my bias is slanted by the frustrations with the pattern. Thanks for your kind comment.
DeleteAgree. I think you look great wearing them.
DeleteThanks, Kay
DeleteWhen I was young, Vogue patterns were reliably excellent. In fact I learned to sew my clothing by buying Vogue patterns and following the instructions. It's discouraging to see how far downhill they've gone. Just when so many young people are wanting to sew, it's a mishmash of poor and good patterns and instructions out there in the sewing wilderness. I appreciate your excellent and detailed reviews! Elle
ReplyDeleteThank you, Elle.
DeleteIt's a shame they didn't work out because the pants are cute on the envelope. It seems like pattern instructions, drafts, and quality control have decreased over the last few years. Do you sense the same?
ReplyDeleteL (You sew, girl!)
What I see is the lack of the human touch. There is much copy and paste and it seems that no one is really editing the instructions or their logical sequence. Some of the patterns, like Claire Shaeffer's have incredible clear instructions but they are the exception, unfortunately.
DeleteI'm probably too late to this particular rodeo to comment but I think the trousers look very good on you. I understand your frustrations and thanks for pointing out all the problems with this pattern. Your knowledge and expertise is invaluable. I look forward to all your posts. On.a different note I came upon your post from 2019 about the designer Daniela Gregis and the model Benedetta Barzini. Have you seen the documentary about her made by her son? It's very interesting. She is very political, teaches Women's Studies at a university in Milan. The documentary is called The Disappearance of My Mother. Interesting and rather difficult to watch. However, I like you, very much like Gregis' work and like to see Barzini modeling the clothes.
ReplyDeleteThat sounds really interesting and thank you for pointing that out to me. I will search it out. Thank you for your lovely comments as well.
DeleteGorgeous flowy top - your sewing is pure inspiration! As an entrepreneur hoping to one day work with a full package apparel partner, your start-to-finish documentation provides an invaluable window into bringing designs professionally to life. Thank you for generously allowing newcomers like me to learn from your ample technical skills!
ReplyDelete